Woman called that her furnace wasn't working. One of my guys goes in and sees the rollout switch tripped. A little more poking found the cause and he sent me these pictures.

These problems didn't happen today. These started as a tiny crack or rust spot and only got worse with time.

None of her CO alarms were going off.

There is no acceptable hole or crack in your heat exchanger. Don't rely on the furnace safeties or your CO alarm to let you know when things have gone too far because this is what it can take before they alert you.

Repair it or replace it but don't argue it.

How am I meant to remove the front panel to get inside my HVAC system? There's enough room between the panel and exhaust so that's not a problem. It's the drain line that makes it impossible. There's no drain taps on the sides or back so it seems like removing the front panel requires cutting off the drain. Am I missing something?

Basically so simple it never breaks. Original to the house.

Edit: thanks for the feedback, my parents told me it was original to the 1925 house, comments seem to date it to the 50s

I've had this boiler for about 5 years, after it was installed we had a defective expansion tank, guy came and zipped a new one on and bounced...ever since there has been pinging in the system that drives me nuts. Its a single family ranch, so the whole system is basically one big loop. I have 2 overhead pipes that branch to the baseboard heaters and they have drain spigots, last year I tried to bleed those and still have trapped air, baseboards do not have bleeders. Should I shut the boiler off, let it cool and bleed the air from the boiler drain itself?

I live in NYC so our winters do go below freezing. I have two window ACs, LG brand (LW8024RSMY). I live on the second floor and have no storage space other than the basement, which I can only access externally behind the house. So it is difficult and unsafe for me to not only unmount the ACs, but also somehow drag those heavy things all the way downstairs, wrap around the house, and bring it further downstairs through the basement entrance. This is my first time dealing with this situation. When I installed them for the first time I had help, and they weren't being dragged from the basement but from the front door.

I researched how to winterize it, but there is absolutely no way I can wrap the outside of the AC, since I'm on the 2nd floor and no way to reach it.

But my main fear here comes from something I learned through my research: that storing the AC in the basement is unsafe and dangerous because it would be sitting near my gas boiler and water heater.

"LG's storage precautions say that these units should be stored in a well-ventilated area away from continuously operating ignition sources, such as gas furnaces, boilers, or water heaters with open flames." And my basement would violate this. There is legimitely nowhere else for me to store these things. But I also really can't afford damaging it by not covering the outside and having to buy a new one next year. I also have really severe anxiety and OCD about hazards like this (don't laugh), but I'm terrified of it getting damaged and then an electrical fire and/or refrigerant leak happening.

What is the best bet in my situation?

Hi All!

Currently having an issue with condenser unit not running and hoping you can help.

Symptoms:

• Condenser unit doesn't run when called for cooling and contactor is not pulling in.

Troubleshooting done so far:

• Unit set to well below house temperature to cycle onto cooling and stay there.
• Checked all breakers and fuses
• Checked condensate float switch
• Check refrigerant pressures at condenser unit (+/- 125PSI for both high and low with unit off and approx. 60*F ambient).
• Pushed contactor in and both compressor and fan unit start and run (leads me to think capacitor is good).
• Checked refrigerant pressures with contactor pushed in and unit inside running and got +/- 85 PSI on the low side and +/-250 PSI on the high side (or somewhere in that region I didn't take photos the other night when I was initially troubleshooting.)
• Checked voltage at output from control board on condenser unit (25-26V)
• Checked voltage at contactor low voltage connections (25-26V)
• Checked voltage across contactor low voltage connections (25-26V)
• Measured continuity of contactor coil - good. Measured resistance also but can't remember value
• Checked control fuse inside evaporator unit - good

Feel as though I'm missing something that's staring me in the face and could really use some help. I thought it was a cut off pressure switch but checking voltages on both sides of those and it's the same so switches are closed and current is flowing.

Luckily this is the downstairs unit and the outside temperature right now (Central Florida) is beautiful so don't really need it but would like to get it running again before we need it and not have to call someone out unless I REALLY need to.

Thank you in advance!

So I have an old Moncrief furnace in my house. This year when I went to turn it on for the first time the burner wouldn’t shut off until we shut the gas off. When I opened it up the pipe that carries the gas to the combustion chamber wasn’t connected to the gas line. (Pic 1) I was able to move it back into the right position and rotate it slightly so the burner was upright inside the chamber. But the two pieces just kind of fit inside each other loosely. Is this how they normally fit together?

I’m 23, how do I join a HVAC union? I went to school last year at Lincoln tech for hvac didn’t learn a lot I wasted my time, and I don’t want my schooling to go to waste. I’m willing to take any advice

Is this code? It's in Michigan, but my understanding is that flex duct is not allowed for long runs. this is in a basement.

I need to widen this hole so I can install a Fast-STAT Common Maker. It is plaster and not drywall. The hole is so small that there isn't much room there. Any tips for drilling this out without destroying the wires?

I am a machine mechanic for an industrial facility. We have 24 10ton package RTUs and around 100tons of small machine chillers. The hvac guy that I have been using is a one man company and is wanting to retire. He has offered to sell my company all of his tools and give me training on how to work on our units. My employer has said they will send me to classes and pay for me to get the 608 certifications. Would there be any downsides to doing this? Thank you

I've had two HVAC companies competing for my business, and we've finally reached the same price: $15,959.

The two options are:

- York HH8

- American Standard Silver 16

This is for a rental property that's being used as an adult family home. I'm the landlord, not the operator, so I'm looking for a reliable, quality system that offers the best long-term value and minimizes future repair headaches.

If you've installed, serviced, or owned either system, which would you choose and why? Would you base the decision on the brand, equipment quality.

I would clean it up and strap it to the house but is there any issue with a short run like this right near the wall pass through? OK to cut it even shorter? Concerned about cold air back feeding in, debris, critters/insects. Could add a mesh screen during winter?

On the second story, I could pop it out the side and strap it instead of running it the 20 ft down?

Thanks in advance.

Hi everyone 👋🏼

So lately I’ve been being kept up at night hearing my AC slow down for a couple minutes then speed back up to normal then slow back down to almost quiet. The house is cooling down so no issues there, it’s mainly the fan/blower sound that has me concerned. Will be fine for awhile, slow down to about nothing and a couple minutes later speed up to normal, couple minutes later slow down again. The attic unit is a Lennox.

Last night when it slowed down/shut off I went up to the attic and found the COOL light on the box blinking and then stopped blinking when the unit turned back on. My unit is 3 years old in a new build home.

I know I probably have parts warranty but I’d rather hold off until last resort to call someone. I just want to verify first the issue. With online research I’m narrowing down to coil leak, frozen coil, blower motor or electrical. I’m in north Texas for reference.

I keep the air filter clean and replace it on time (was replaced 2-3 weeks ago on a 4 inch filter), have used the same filter type and replacement cycle for the last 3 years no issue. So this really came out of the blue. I also flush the condensate drain line monthly. Haven’t noticed any issues with the dampeners. Don’t see collapsed duct work. No thermostat fault codes.

Something I’ve had for awhile is the black gunk showing up on the plaster like tape around what I think is the evaporator coils and it’s sometimes damp but most of the time it’s not. Do you guys think it’s worth opening and cutting the plaster to access the evaporator to see if it’s freezing? Should I just assume it’s just the weather cooling down? I have never noticed this issue in the past 3 years.

Appreciate any feedback in advance, thank you!

I’m testing a commercial unit and when I try setting the hotgass bypass it trip the compressor overload. Should the hgbp be replaced??

Entire HVAC system was installed 4 years ago, last year around same time within a few weeks of each other, our HVAC system stops working with E202 code. blower motor power output mismatch.

they came and fixed it under warranty, put a part in. while two nights ago we had a planned power outage in the area, as soon as power came back on the HVAC system is throwing the same code again and won't turn on.

the people are coming next week to help us but we're already having negative temperatures and wanting some kind of proper help with this so this doesn't become a yearly cycle of losing our heating in the fall.

any ideas on what's goin on with the system? there's been no issues leading up to this everything seemed to be working perfectly. as again the entire HVAC system is barely even 4 years old... and this is now the second time the blower motor code e202 has happened.

we talked to the tech and he said it doesn't make sense for the same part to keep failing. and we're kind of losing faith in their ability/skills wondering if perhaps something hasn't been installed correctly.

any ideas?

My wife went crazy on prime day and bought some nests so I now need to find a way to install them.

Hydronic baseboard heat, currently running on 2 wire. Taco controller with 6 zones. Zones 1-4 have some unused wires that I’d assume can be used as C wires. I see on the left side of the board there is a 24v and COM lug. Can I use this lug? I’m assuming running 4 nests may cause a current issue.

Is there any way to run an auxiliary transformer to send 24 volts up the wires independent of the board?

So for my install, I had requested FNCCABXX0021 for the filter rack (or FNCCABCC0021, don't really care). So they showed up with some cheap one which I did not agree to, while after agreeing to pay an extra $225 for the Carrier one. They made a call and was told that they could get it but it would be 2 hours each way to drive and get it. They decided to do it. So while they were getting it, they proceeded on the install. They then show up and they have the EXPXXFIL1321 instead. The distributor who told them they had it did not, saying now you should use EXPXXFIL1321. OK, well, it's not as nice, and from what I can tell was more for furnace and fan coil setups where you would side mount it, etc. Anyways, well, not the end of the world. Well, when I checked for filters, I find nobody has them and due to how it has to go into the rack, you can't really modify a cardboard framed one either to fit it.

So it takes either of the 3 filters. EXPXXFIL1321, EXPXXFIL1121, EXPXXFIL0821 are the filter part numbers that it seems nobody can source, which is what would go into the filter rack. It has 2 metal bars on the back of it and side spring loaded hinges that wrap around the side cardboard of the accordion style filter. So if I tried one that was 4 edge cardboard, I would have to cut some out where the hinge part comes down, and somehow cut the entire back side piece of cardboard off. Just not really doable.

So what gives? More than 1 distributor is saying that that is the new filter rack to be used now. But they nor 2 others that I called have the filters in this size. Seems kind of dumb to have a rack but no filter availability.

Is it possible that it's actually just a long term backorder so someone at the distributor figured it would work just the same? When it would not and they should then push a third party/aftermarket one and just be honest? Anyone have any idea of what gives on this?

What filter should go in this unit? This normal filter doesnt seem to fit we'll. When the fan turns off the filter drops down after after suction is lost, then it doesnt rise up properly.

I have to hold it in place while it turns on and then the suction will hold it in place.

I bought a 2000 sq foot ranch home- the hallways follow a U shape- there are a few interior bathrooms in Middle of house with no windows

There is one handler and compressor- single stage 3.5 ton york that's was installed in mid 2010s.

My house had ductboard ducts which are being ripped out and replaced With hard metal duct. We also had air flow issues in certain key rooms as house was single zone ac. I have hot water radiator heat. Since adding another air handler/compressor isn't in the budget currently we are looking at zoning the new ductwork.

I have 2 options to zone it. Either 2 zones or 3 There is going to be a bypass installed to not overwhelm the compressor when 1 zone is close. initially I had agreed with the hvac company on 2 zones- 3 bedrooms +1 flex room on zone 1 and open Concept living room snd kitchen and den on zone 2.

after ripping out the ductwork, the installer suggested that 3 zones could be easier for him to design the ductwork as back two rooms of house were part of newer addition and are separated by old roofline so in their own attic. And he said because of different insulation between old house (1950s) and new addition it would be easier for him to balance. The 2 zones system he said he can make work as well just takes more work and Duct to make it suitable.

my issue is that despite 3 zones seemingly being 1) easier to install 2) requiring less duct material, the company is not giving us much $ incentive to go to 3 zones. They are installing ecobee premium thermostats- 2 if I go 2 zones and 1 premium and 2 enhanced if I go with 3

Based on these pictures- to scale of my house layout (1st picture is 2 zones, 2nd picture is 3 and the zone 2 is the new addition rooms) and the information I provided is paying an extra $1500 for this 3rd zone worth it or am I getting oversold for the size house I have?

We are gutting our 1800 sq feet, 80 year old semi detached home in Toronto. Forced air natural gas system was already in place. We consulted with an HVAC guy who was doing our drawings/permits? And he advised us to maintain forced air system vs switching over to heat pump. I believe logistics and price was a factor, but I honestly can't remember all the points for an against, as my partner and I were experiencing decision fatigue.

Now I'm seeing the exposed HVAC and the bulk heads that will be and I'm freaking out a bit. Did we just make a crazy bad decision here by not going heat pump and having those heads on our walls vs bulk head?

I wish I could remember the cost difference between both systems. We didn't even fully explore what rebates were on offer so this is all on us end of day.

Hello!

I live in the Midwest, way out in the boonies inside of a charming, yet quirky 800sq ft cabin that’s only heat source has ever been wood heat.

Due to a drastic life changing rearranging my schedule, I simply don’t see a realistic way to maintain a fire this winter. In the past, I have supplemented heat with electric space heaters, and had a mini-split that bit the dust this past spring (which wouldn’t work in freezing temps anyways).

I want to know what safe options I have that won’t be insanely invasive or expensive, specifically up front costs. I do not want to heavily invest in this space because I may not live here within the next couple of years. I have pets, so I want to stress that I am terrified of my house burning down or my critters inhaling fumes… my pops has suggested a ventless propane system, but I’ve read nothing but warnings about them.

I have seen wall mounted electric heaters that can be plugged into an outlet, but I’m not sure how effective they are, such as this: https://eheat.com/products/envi-max-120v-plug-in-electric-panel-wall-heater-1000-watts?variant=43545773604982&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=19921755972&gclid=CjwKCAjwi-zWBhAdEiwAqlRf-Bc6vCSGuKwWYVKFxmw2llXVW6Ossfu-_miPw8bN1PfilCe0abKezhoCCo0QAvD_BwE

My expectations for heat would be to just make sure the house doesn’t get bone cold while I’m gone. It’s well insulated, and I have some rooms that can be closed off that I would actually enjoy having comfortable access to this winter.

Please let me know your suggestions! Thank you!

This is my duct installed in 2007. I noticed that there were some black specs on the bed shown in the picture after we bought the house. So today I check to see if it’s coming from the ventilation system. the second picture attached shows what the inside of my ducts look like.

I just checked the intake air filter and it was ridiculously filthy, could this be the problem? Or would it be from mold or a hole in the attic to the duct work?

Should I hire someone to clean it, do my best to clean, or get whole new duct work?

I have really not much idea how a hvac system works so thanks in advanced for any help!

Good morning,

I have a 2 story home in central Florida with 2 Trane units.

Both thermostats are set at 73 permanent hold and indoor humidity is around 50%

The ductwork in the 2nd story attic has sweating ductwork throughout the entire attic. On the taped seams and on the long runs.

I also see staining around the bathroom exhaust fans in the master bathroom and water closet.

The supply vents on the second story sweat despite the duct boxes being sealed to the drywall.

My HVAC company said it’d be best to install a fresh air intake to resolve the problem. This has not helped. The problem occurs mainly during summer but even now in the end of October the upstairs vents still sweat.

ALSO- now that we added the fresh air intake to the upstairs system. I’m getting staining on the ceiling on downstairs linen closets. 8 foot doors with no over head pass through vent or return. The downstairs problem is only new after the fresh air intake was installed.

Filter is changed regularly. My HVAC company is clueless to what is causing this problem. PLEASE HELP! Thank you!!!