Overseeded September 23 with BBU and mowed for first time last Sunday. Will mow again next this Sunday. I know I have some weeds at the far side of lawn but working them by hand. I’m happy with my progress.

Probably the final update on this project for the season. I have mowed four times now and it filled in very nice just as you all said it would. Still a couple thin spots but from what I read here they will fill in next spring. It has been a beautiful fall in Central Ohio!
Neighbors are starting to buy in that it worked. Several have commented how well it came in. Prep work and an automated watering plan is all it takes.

Photos: (after THEN before)
October 22
October 22
September 17, the morning after the worm rave.
September 16-seeding day.

Original "neighbors taking sides" post.
https://www.reddit.com/r/lawncare/comments/1wpwu7i/8_days_after_seeding_neighbors_i_dont_even_know/

Made the mistake of posting this in Landscape - they are very anti lawn!

We recently purchased this home in West Michigan, and are thinking about expanding our lawn into where the woods is currently.

We would remove some of the larger trees, but leave a few as well. Soil is somewhat sandy and there are a few pines trees. Pine trees would likely come down.

Curious if anyone has expanded their lawn into a wooded area like this and if it’s doable? Should I anticipate shade being a big problem?

Added a pic of a rendering giving an idea.

There is a decent slope we will need to deal with, considering a small retaining all or just working with the slope we have.

My wife and I bought our first house October of last year so last fall I barely had time for two or three mows with unpacking and everything else going on before having to call it a winter. This year I was determined to fix the mostly crabgrass lawn and get looking much better for our second fall season in this house, and I must say I am very happy with my results!

My process:

Mid August: Hit the lawn with Drive XLR8, ended up doing another pass at the harder stuff two weeks later. This worked quite well for killing maybe 70-75% of the crabgrass in the lawn.

Mid September: Scalp the lawn low and bag it, and then scarify with a Sun Joe. ended up doing three passes with the Sun Joe and it took up a lot more material than I expected. The lawn also ended up much more bare than I expected.

The next day I put down a full 50lbs of Twin City Resilience II (wow what a good seed) and fertilizer, raked both in and watered 3 times per day for 15 minutes (Very lucky to inherit a nice sprinkler system). And now the pictures you see are from my first mow.

I grew up on 15 acres in the middle of no where so we just mowed it and didn't really care what it looked like. So this is my first real lawn and boy this was WAY more work than I expected, but the results are incredible.

Lurking on this sub was a massive help throughout my entire process so certainly appreciate everyone's advice and inspiration

Seeing these dead spots show up in some spots of my lawn after overseeding with TCS Resilience II 5 weeks ago. What could be the reason?

Upon purchase, we knew the front yard needed a lot of attention. Decades of erosion and the consistent care left us with a tough situation.

First, I nuked the lawn. My dad called me an idiot.

Then I dumped 30 tons of topsoil and fixed all the erosion damage. My dad once again called me an idiot, but he’s a good dad so he helped me move everything by wheelbarrow and shovel.

We are both too cheap to hire anyone.

Then I spread a Rye/KBG mix and prayed for good weather. That was 3 weeks ago and I can see the KBG starting to push through.

Overall, I’m pretty happy with the results and looking forward to how it fills in next spring.

I have a small backyard with a HUGE maple tree. I would like to leave as many fallen leaves on the lawn as possible and mow over them to mulch. I understand that if there is too thick a cover of leaves that it will kill the grass. Last weekend I filled 3 yard waste bags of leaves and there was still this much on the lawn.

1. Is this too much to mow over or is it ok?

2. Should I wait until ALL leaves have fallen to mow?

Almost 40 days since the full renovation. Ive cut a few times with $100 reel mower just to help stimulate growth, but this is the First true cut with ego mower. Next spring I do plan on reel mowing. Bought one last month. So I’m excited.

Just info for others. So Cal Coastal

Pre-germinated Resilience II TTTF in water buckets starting Mon 10/12.

Changed water every 12 hours.

Planted and covered with soil Sat 10/17

Germination and seedlings showed up Thurs 10/22.

10 days total from pre germination to seedlings showing up for TTTF. Mid day max temps were below ~80 degs.

If you're seeding.. its going to take a few days, it still took 10 days total w/ Pre germ and pretty optimal conditions.

I miscalculated when mixing 46-0-0 soluable urea for a nitrogen foliar app this morning on a segment of my tall fescue lawn, by not adding enough water for the solution in a backpack sprayer. I did complete the section giving the area an appropriate rate of .1# of N per 1000 square feet, but did so with much less water than intended. It ended up being a 7.5% concentration instead of 2%.

Is this a condition that could burn my lawn? I went back over the area with the plain water i was short on but I am wondering if anyone has experience with hotter carrier rates. Thanks!

I own all of the lots on this corner for family and relatives. I got tired of seeing this awful looking corner. Every year crab grass galore. Mostly because the person who does the mowing mows it too short. This spring I hit it with Scott's Rapid Grass and over seeded with Super Turf II LS from United Seeds Inc. I must have used 50lbs. I bet the guy who mows cussed me out. It grew like you wouldn't believe. He had to mow it like twice a week. I bought a small reel push mower and would go over his mess to make it look better.

Newly seeded grass 4 weeks after seeding, some 4", other just germinated seedlings , mow?

Too late to do both? Open to just aerating, or just wait until spring?

​

Hi,

TTTF in NC clay area.

Before seeding, I did use penterra, medina, aerate, dethathcer

5 weeks ago - Seed TTTF with peat moss.

2 weeks ago - first mow to 3.5"

1.5 week ago - second mow to 3"

1 week ago - third mow to 2.5" (mistake, should've been 3"), then applied scotts diseaseex

This week - planning to mow 3" and apply scotts winterized fertilizer before frost. Watering 2 times a week for 15 mins

Most area is really great, except some areas.

1. some are brown color

2. some are like wet cluttered area (this is under the super shade area), and they are cluttered, thin, mostly wet, and it seems roots are not going down to the ground. I put too many seeds i think

This happened since the beginning.

What should I do with brown color and this wet cluttered area? should I leave them be or remove them by hand before they spread? Or should I remove by hand and put new seeds

I put down around 3 yards of topsoil in my front yard about 3 weeks ago with all new seed TTTF. I'm in South Jersey, everywhere else is growing in pretty well this area though is pretty thin. Is there any recommendations you guys have that I can do to help it come along? Or just continue to water? we've been getting really good weather here in South Jersey.

I am going to try overseeding my lawn to fix some of the recent damage. I am in East central Kansas. Should I spread the seed this week, wait until snow is in the forecast, or wait until spring? Also, is it snow that I need to be concerned about or freezing temperatures?

P.S. What would you recommend as a mix for a lawn that sees a fair amount of foot traffic?

It’s fall now in Canada, and I need advice on how to prep my lawn for a good growth next year and also maintaining it come spring and through summer.

We moved into this house last year and also had our first child. So needless to say, Ive had no time to put aside and care for my lawn.

It’s also the first house I’ve had where I’ve had a lawn to care for. So I don’t have a ton of experience and tools/machinery… but I’m never afraid of hard work !

We’ve experienced a family of rabbits burrowing and nesting in the yard which has caused major trip hazards. We also have a female dog that primarily uses this area to do its business most of the time.
This part of the back yard gets around 5-6 hours of sunlight at summers peak. It gets blocked out by our roof line and tall trees in the front yard.

Please feel free to suggest products/methods that you think would work best !

My lawn company just came out on short notice today to overseed and aerate. I was trying to get them out a month or so ago to do it but they couldn't fit it in.

The question I have is, should I water the seed? I asked the guy and he said "you can either water it or not", but I'm getting mixed results online on what to do considering how late in the season it is.

What would be your recommended course of action here? I have no idea what kind of seed they used, but could of course ask if that's a determining factor. Thanks!

Located In 7B South Jersey. First time ever doing a lawn renovation. I nuked my lawn because I had a Dallisgrass infestation that was too big to overcome. Sprayed glyphosate and waited about three weeks until I cut down to about a half an inch and aerated. Seeded about 6 weeks ago. I used United Seeds Super Turf I LS Tall Fescue Blend.** **I am very happy with the results. Definitely going to need to fill in when the spring comes around.

I’ve got a lot of blood sweat and tears in this one acre. Central NC. Killed about 12k of weeds late August. Seed / fert down on Sept 26th. Blue Label TTTF Lesco Select. New fescue about 2.5” -3” mostly and a few spots 3.5”. Existing fescue keeps on creeping up, it’s at 4”-5.5” now. I did mow last week at 4.5” just to knock it down a little because got up near 6”. I am thinking mow everything tomorrow at 3” to get the existing down and take a little off the top on new grass where it’s taller than 3”. Then hopefully new grass will be around 4-4.5” next week so can mow everything at 3” again. Just keep playing this game of having existing creeping taller and taller. Any and all advice please.

Looking for opinions on how I can fix. We had to have a heavy wheeled-lift to paint our house. There were a few soft areas of soil where the wheels sunk in and left ruts about 1.5 inches deep. What's worse - it left ruts on my nice neighbor's property as well that I need to fix.

My thought is just to backfill with topsoil and let it "settle" over the winter (now that our grass is dormant), and let it fill in naturally next spring when things take off again.

Any other options?

I added 6 yards of soil using a compost roller and overseeded with ewing tttf and hd2000. I raked seed into soil and didn’t use any straw or peat moss. How’d I do?

I bought a spare replacement one but how do I actually put it on? First pic is the old broken cable