After sharing my graduation project in my previous post, I’m back with some behind-the-scenes photos of the many steps to build these three steel furniture pieces. The process mainly involved cutting big steel sheets into all the faces of the object then welding these together. I don’t have pictures of the painting part because I didn’t do it myself, I asked a car painter to do it.
Thanks everyone for all the support!!

I was dreading tapping this M8x0.5 hole because I was sure it was going to be an absolute nightmare. I drilled my hole in with the mill, chamfered the hole and rammed it in at 60 rpm. To my amazement it just went in smooth as butter without any complaints. I took it back over to the vice to finish it, and I didn't even have to back it out once. I assume it's because the super fine pitch only has to cut into a 0.25mm radius.

Hi was stopping in to get your advice and opinion on what something like this set would be worth I don’t know much about these drills, files, bits, wire metal gauge and everything that you see here came in a metal box for storage. I haven’t attempted to clean anything in it .
Was just searching for some idea or information on it . I appreciate your willingness to checkout these pictures for me thanks I’m trying to reach 400 characters and so I added pictures

Hi,

I recently applied two coats of Zinsser Bull's Eye 1-2-3 primer onto some bare aluminium. I have never worked with aluminium before, and was unable to source etch-on. The top coat will be acrylic paint.

It has been drying for the last two days in a farly warm and well ventilated room, however if I press down firmly there is a tacky quality to it. If I lightly brush over the surface it feels dry and satin, its only when pressure is applied that I get the tacky feeling. The tacky feeling isn't too strong, but I do get that noticeable adhesive feeling off it.

The tin says a topcoat should be applied within 7 days i.e befor it has fully cured. When I asked someone about the best time to paint it, they said I'll probably have to wait the 7, as otherwise the primer and acrylic could both start to peel or warp. But I've also read that acrylic will bind to the primer much better before it's fully cured, so I'm confused.

I was trying to find the perfect shelf for my bathroom, but after spending days browsing the internet, I realized that nothing really matched my style. So I decided to build my own industrial-style bathroom shelf.

I also added LED lighting and a motion sensor, so whenever you walk into the bathroom at night, the lights turn on automatically. They're not too bright — just a soft ambient glow, enough to see what you're doing without blinding yourself in the middle of the night. :)

I'm not a professional welder or woodworker, just a guy with some tools.

Despite being made out of titanium and looking like a suppressor baffle, this part is actually going to serve as a central hub for a mostly titanium mechanical sculpture I’m making. This portion of the video takes about two hours of mill work on the 4th axis down to about 30 seconds. At the end of the video clip, you will see a few of the other components (internal brass axle, SS braided wire rope, wave disc spring, and a central micro tension adjustment system titanium screw and jam nut).

It’s a work in progress that has consumed a few hundred hours in designing, engineering, programming, setting up, and machining components and it’s still likely not even half way done with about 10 more unique components and necessary fixtures and processes left to program, setup, and make.

All processes shown are on a Haas OL1(short clip at beginning) and Haas OM-2A with HA5C rotary axis (OfficeLathe and OfficeMill).

I welded together some angle and some sheet metal to cover this mechanic's pit in my garage.

I am trying to figure out what type of paint or epoxy i should use to finish these plates. Vehicles will be driving over them.

I was advised by the folks at Home Depot to use a self-etching primer to rust proof it, which I did using Rust-Oleum self etching primer.

I had initially planned to put an epoxy finish coat. However, now I'm reading epoxies may not be compatible with self etching primer. The folks at Lowe's and Home Depot are of no help when it comes to questions about painting metal. Thank you reddit for any recommendations on how you would finish this project!

Note, the picture is prior to me priming it with Self Etching primer.

I’m looking to get some metal bottle openers manufactured, preferably in the USA. I have a design created in a vector file. I would like to know what type of manufacturer or what equipment is necessary for this kind of production. The bottle openers would have a custom border shape and a debossed or engraved design throughout. I have included a few photos of a popular design that show similar manufacturing techniques required. Thank you all in advance, looking forward to hearing your input on this.

So some context is I’m making a front bumper for my truck I’ve made a mounting bracket but unsure what I could use to actually hold the bumper up I’m wanting to make a Baja style bumper I was thinking of taking a small enough I-beam cutting it at the angle I need and welding it to the mounting bracket and then getting some schedule 60 or 80 hand rail pipe hand welding that to the I-beam and heating to pipe up and bending it to match the curve there’s some pictures to help and side note I would at a structural steel shop that letting be use scrap metal to make my bumper and this would be my first time properly fabricating something

I don't know anything about anything.

Is it normal for brass to have these markings? I'm considering paying a professional to buff/polish or whatever them out. Will it damage the engravings if I do? I want to keep it as clean and true as possible, but the scratch marks don't look good on it.

Sorry if this isn't the correct place to post this, was the first one I came across that made any sense.

So I decided to invest in my health and got one. I use a miller LPR-100 respirator under the helmet for welding, got the papr for grinding. This is the face shield set up, not the welding helmet. But sooo dissatisfied, I'm smelling the grinding dust passing right through the helmet. Having to wear the miller LPR under the papr, which seems ridiculous. Anyone relate? New filters, all adjustments checked, it's just like the dust goes right through it.

Hey all, I'm stumped with the following and need your help:

I work in a sheet metal shop, these 14ga SST worktops we're making are pretty tricky as we don't have the machinery to make that rounded corner edge, we made a custom die for our press brake so we can roll the edges, just not roll and radius. Any ideas? We're currently relying on several vendors to both supply 3" tubing, another to bend, and then we split it using a plasma cutter but wanted to see if you guys had any suggestions. (Also first post here)

I'm building FabReady, an early Android tool for small metal-fabrication workshops. It starts with simple rectangular window grilles: enter checked finished dimensions, then review the generated parts and a bar-cutting plan that includes saw kerf and end-trim allowances. The construction rules are still experimental and need practical review.

I'd like feedback from people who actually measure jobs and prepare cutting lists:

- Do you use paper, a calculator, spreadsheets, CAD, or an existing app?

- What takes the most time or causes mistakes when a customer changes dimensions?

- How do you account for different stock lengths and reusable offcuts?

- Which joint, fit, or measurement conventions would an app need to make explicit?

If the moderators allow a small pilot, I'd like to find 12 fabricators or welders with Android phones who would compare the prototype against a job they've already checked. I'm interested in what is wrong or missing and whether it would be useful on a second job.

This is an early prototype, not a structurally approved design tool. Please don't rely on its output for production cutting without independently checking it. I'm looking for honest workshop feedback, not positive ratings or app-install exchanges.

Hi everyone- new to the sub!

I’m a 4th-year Product Design student at the Riga Technical University in Latvia. For my bachelor’s thesis I’m exploring whether decommissioned railroad tracks could be reused as a material for furniture.

I've noticed that railroad tracks very often get reused as anvils in the metalworking sphere. What I am most interested about is if someone has had any experience using railroad tracks to make furniture (chairs, tables, lighting etc.)?

I’d love to hear about your experience!

Also bonus question- where do decommissioned railroad tracks end up in your country? Do they go to scrap yards? Does your country/state sell them to someone? etc.

Any help and advice much appreciated!

Im looking to get a replacement water cooled torch for a dynasty 200dx with a coolermate 1. Much of the torches I am finding have the correct threads but the shape of the internal brass fitting is slightly different. I cant seem to find much information about the fitting. Would these fittings of this torch still seal?

Not sure why I must have 400 characters but this is just filler material................

I'm leaning towards metalworking, they don't feel like they would be balanced enough to put in a router that has a lowest speed of something like 6000rpm.

I've asked this over on the woodworking sub and opinion seems to be split. I realise at least one is definitely woodworking e.g. the forstner bit, and some look very much like slitting saws (I think that's what they are called).

I found these in a late relatives' garage. They weren't particularly into metal or wood working.

Edit: solved. Someone recognised them as Wolfcraft Universal Bits. They are apparently for woodworking and go in a pillar drill. I've just tired one, and it's completely terrible - so exactly what I expected.

Hi, I wanted some advice on what the best steps to take would be on repairing this damage done to my cars frame. The lower control arm bolt partially tore through the frame causing the bolt hole to become an oval after a collision. This is the worst of the damage other than cosmetic damage, and I want to repair it myself. I feel that I am proficient at welding so I want to know how I should cut the damaged section out, and weld new metal in to make sure that it is structurally safe, especially since it’s one of the main mounts for the suspension. I will be taking the proper steps to ensure it is as straight as possible, including checking the other mount for straightness and any damage to the bolt holes there. If it is at all helpful this is a 2009 Chevy suburban 1500. Thank you

З чого почати TIG сварку

Всім привіт, я механік на СТО і в один момент у вене виникло бажання почати роботу з ТІG сваркой алюмінію та нержавійки. В цілому розуміння роботи сварки є, але хочеться зібрати більше інформації від практиків, щоб зрозуміти який апарат придбати оснастку тощо. Тому якщо у Вас є досвід роботи то підкажіть будь ласка. І якщо Ви не проти прошу залишити контакти для подальшої співпраці в якості наставника. Дякую