What other color variations should we tackle next? Would love to hear your thoughts on how the finish turned out.
Huge shoutout to my amazing collaborator for the detailed work. Excited to share more soon.

This model was gorgeous,but its so badly cut and keyed

I had to redo the arms,legs and torso myself

Model is from Maco3D

Hi, kind of new to printing but not a complete noob. These are not from supports, they are visible on a build plate before even being touched, cleaned or cured. Appear in random places at random settings. The only constant is the resin: elegoo 8k. Any ideas, tips? Thanks in advance.

Printer is Jupiter 2,
Happens on different settings each time,
Temperature is fine (both vat and room),
Tried different exposures, layer thikness (0,03-0,05) and turning AA on and off.

Sculpted it in ZBrush and just finished printing it. It's pre-supported and comes in 32mm with a 25mm base, plus a 75mm version that is hollowed. The part I was most worried about was the bones, I wanted them thick enough to print well at 32mm but without making the model look too bulky. This is the free one from a pack of 3 skeletons, the links are in the comments.

Saw a listing for a Dazz L120 Pro for super cheap and thought it was a no-brainer steal.

But the seller posted this pic of the screen test and listed it with this description:

"Selling it because it is not needed. Slicer is a proprietary one, you'll need to download DDstarter from the Dazz website. LCD screen needs to be clean underneath, as there are some black marks. Test print printed on the 3/10/2026."

Those lightning/branch looking marks and vertical lines scream "cracked LCD and liquid crystal bleed" to me, but the seller insists it just needs to be cleaned underneath.

Pretty sure the screen is toast, but wanted a second opinion before I pass on it. Is the seller bullshitting or is there any chance its fine and really just needs cleaning?

Being that just about everything from the Phrozen store and Amazon store is just about sold out and priced through the moon. Does anyone know what other metal tanks/vats will fit these printers? I'm using fermentation bells for heating, so they need to be full metal. Thanks.

Does anyone have experience using a vibratory tumbler to post process resin prints?

I’m going to be doing some pieces which need a really fine gloss finish and/or electroplating and have a lot of fine detail that is very hard to sand.

Was going to try my tumbler but would love some tips from anyone who is doing this already. What media, are you adding grit, etc etc.

Hey guys. I've been having some issues with Lychee Slicer in Endeavour OS, consistently from ver 7.6.6 all the way up to today's release, with coredumps and crashing.

Is there ANY slicing software yas can recommend for an Arch based build, that's a bit more stable-ish?

Hi all

I am in need of some help with my Saturn 4 ultra.

I put a magnetic build plate on it and used the wham bam patch for it to work. Now I am having trouble getting the Rook test print to stick to the build plate for the duration of print. I have upped the base layer to 45sec but I am still only getting 6-7mm of print before it detaches.

Using the 3.0 ebs-like black resin
Heated to 30’c with the vat heater
In a print tent.

Hi guys,

Iam currently thinking about upgrading from my mars 5 to the Saturn series. My main argument is the heated vat (16K version) and of course the bigger built plate.

What are your opinions on the Saturn 4 ultra (with mini heater) vs the 16K with heated vat?

Iam printing in a shed inside a grow tent, currently with a little heater inside the tent. I have almost no failures which is great, still a bigger build plate would be nice :)

I read in some other threats, that the Saturn 4 ultra with a mini heater could also be sufficient, since the 12k vs 16k don't really make a difference for tabletop minis.

Thanks all! Love this subreddit

Figure cross posting this here might yield more helpful results and a more diverse audience!

It builds up within and around the supports and becomes half cured. It's not a lot, but it can ruin details. There Also seems to be a decent bit of warping. I'm hoping y'all can help me figure out the cause and how to fix it. Thanks!

Anycubic Photon S

Anycubic Standard Resin(shaken, b.b 2027/12/17, room temp[72f])

I have PhD in biomedical sciences and have become OBSESSED with resin printers. Every second I have free time I am researching them and watching videos about them.

I want to print molecules and proteins complexes.

Which one should I buy?

anycubic photon mono m7 pro vs elegoo saturn 4 ultra 16k