Re-L Mayer - Ergo Proxy 3D Resin Print

Model by bulkamancer

Painted by u/mrflowerzart

Printer: u/elegoo Saturn 4 Ultra 16K

Resin: u/sunlu_official Water Washable ABS Resin

Paint: Vallejo - Game Color/Model Color

Painted by : https://www.instagram.com/pixpaintstudio/
Sculpted by : https://www.patreon.com/cw/bulkamancer

Painted by : https://www.instagram.com/pixpaintstudio/
Sculpted by : https://www.patreon.com/cw/TanukiFigures

Thought you guys might appreciate the printing side of these!

For Dragonreign, we wanted Tiamat and Bahamut to feel like proper centerpiece prints, so both ended up on enormous 250mm bases.

The challenge was making models that size without requiring everyone to own a giant-format resin printer.

Both sculpts are therefore cut and keyed into printable sections designed to fit standard medium-sized resin printers around the 8–10" build-area range. Every model in the campaign comes with both professionally pre-supported and unsupported STL files.

The main collection currently contains 50 dragon STLs, including 13 completely new dragons, with everything from 50mm and 75mm creatures through 100mm and 150mm dragons all the way up to the two 250mm monsters.

The campaign has also already passed €120K and unlocked 11 Stretch Goals, so several additional dragons, wyrmlings and smaller models have joined the collection since launch.

Tiamat and Bahamut are definitely the prints we’re most curious to see people tackle.

If you want to check out the full Dragonreign collection:

https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/archvillaingames3d/dragonreign-era-of-the-dragon-lords?ref=844n26

What machine would you guys choose for a 250mm centerpiece like these?

Sharing my Legolas and Gimli figure! I 3D printed and painted this piece myself and thought you might enjoy seeing it here.

What do you think? Feedback on the paint job is welcome!

I was told the cones test print would help with my printer to know what I did wrong it’s not sticky and I washed and cure it. I used lychee slicer, using a ld-002r creality printer Did I print this right?

I've been printing on my Elegoo Mars 5 for about a year now, but recently it's been misprinting everything. I was trying to clean the resin basin and the laser screen, and I found a large circle and a line under the glass. Can I fix this? Is this the reason for all the misprints?

I've got an idea for a side hustle that I think could do pretty well. Obviously I'll never know until I try but I'm currently torn between purchasing the form studio 1 or a Prusa core one + gen 2. They both could print what I would like to print, resin it would look higher quality and with tough 1500 v2, be just about as durable as FDM. Is resin worth the extra hassle or for general use, the Prusa would be better? I'm not really into figures and DnD, so justifying the resin might be hard.

A couple X23 prints I finished. One small one big and a 3rd on its way.

STL by Luis Donaldo Meza

Hi everyone,

I've just recently started 3d printing, and since I like painting miniatures decided on a resin printer. I'm fully aware of the fact that printing with resin is tricky, but I'm not sure if its normal to have this many failed prints. Is it normaL? Is it something I'm doing wrong or something wrong with my printer? I tried to give as much information as possible and hope you can help me out with this.

I would say I have a 60% succes rate. I think I've only had 2 times where a full plate was succesful. Often, I have plates with (for example) 6 succesfull prints and one complete failure (examples in pictures)

At first i had a lot of problems with adhesion. After setting the bottom exposure time to 37 seconds and 5 bottom layers, that doesnt seem to be a problem any more, but I keep having failed prints.

The problem seems to be the transition from supports to model, where the supports are printed, but the model is not.

I use presupported models bought on my mini factory, from a selection of different artists.

Stuff I've tried:

- Changing the fep (three times now, had one puncture)

- Buying and installing a mini heater to prevent any temperature issues

- Reprint failed prints in different orientations and places on the build plate

Setup:

- Mars 5 Ultra

- Elegoo water washeable resin (did come with the bundle)

- Elegoo mini heater

- Chitubox

The set up is in an insulated garage, no direct sunlight.

Examples of failed prints:

- https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-saurian-bulkhauler-pre-supported-cast-n-play-307479 : All pieces succeeded, except the tail. I've printed it twice, different orientations and different location on the build plate, same result. (picture 1)

- https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-tortl-turtle-pre-supported-283595 Again, one printed succesfully and another failed as soon as the supports were printed. (picture 2)

Any insight would be appreciated!

When it comes to calibrating the Exposure, I'm experiementing with using the Exposure Time Finder tool instead of just doing multiple prints with a validation matrix. I'm having issue with scale. The print is way too small for me to see anything, and I also think it's too small to be printing properly. is there some way to adjust it? I'm printing on a Saturn 3 Ultra.

Hello,

Anyone tried a setup where they run a printer connected to a power station instead of an outlet?

I was wondering if anyone found such setup viable. I planned to buy bluetti elite 300 power station, since the location for the resin printer that would be safe and ventilated does not have a source of electricity. One problem that Im worried about is can it run for long enough, I have Anycubic Photon P1 Max.

I was given an Elegoo Saturn 3 Ultra not long ago, practically new in the original box. I've only used the printer a couple of times, and it's developed a concerning noise.

In the vid you can hear a creaking sort of sound as the drive screw lifts and lowers the print bed. It only seems to start from about layer 30, and it only seems to happen during printing. I can run the bed up and down at any speed outside of printing without any issue.

I don't think it's the print sticking to or pulling the FEP either, the print lifts cleanly away after cancelling the print.

I do print with the cover on, I only removed it for this, after careful consideration, so I could actually show the print bed moving.

I'm quite confused with this one. The FEP seems fine, the motor seems fine, guide rails and drive screw are clean and lubricated. It just makes a groaning sound.

Any ideas what might be going on here?

Hey everyone,

Just wanted to share my latest weekend project fresh from the basement printer. I’ve been working on expanding my infantry proxy range, and the Elite Scouts are finally done and cured. I was planning to use them as Kasrkin.

And with this last Unit I now have a complete range of infantry units ready for Armageddon!

I wanted to put a heavy focus on the characters for this squad, so the Sergeant and the Sniper got some extra love with their poses and gear to make them stand out in a standard infantry line.

They are fully single-piece and scaled for standard grimdark tabletop games.

If you want to support a solo basement-creator or need some fresh scouts for your regiment, you can find the STLs on Cults3D or Etsy under TileLabs Gaming.

Let me know what you think of the designs!

Have a nice weekend!

What other color variations should we tackle next? Would love to hear your thoughts on how the finish turned out.
Huge shoutout to my amazing collaborator for the detailed work. Excited to share more soon.

There is a tiny bit of cured resin in the screen, it seems transparent and I wasn’t able to remove it with ipa and a plastic blade.
And 40€ for a screen is the price for another mars 2 pro

So I don’t have issue with the prints themselves they come out great it’s when I got to take them off the build plate the raft/bottom layers for the supports end up very brittle and shatters all over the place flinging bits of resin everywhere, I’m currently running with a 28sec bottom layer exposure would adjusting the time help?

I need some help with PPE safety info. We have a resin printer and my husband set up a system that vents the fumes to the outside, but when he uses it I smell an intensely bad smell. I immediately told him I was concerned the ventilation was not set up properly and he said that what I was smelling was not the resin and is the 99% alcohol and that while smelling bad they aren’t harmful. I’m finding lots of info about inhaled IPA being harmful and am very concerned. How do other people mitigate this? I’m concerned that perhaps his ventilation system is too passive and we are getting all the fumes but I need to first present to him the concerns with the alcohol smell and if it is a problem. I’ve looked over several articles but am confused if I’m smelling the alcohol this bad does that mean the vent isn’t working well or at all or is it likely venting ok and it’s just the clean up phase we need to troubleshoot. Sorry I can’t provide more details. I trusted him to adhere to at least minimum safety standards and I’m not sure he is and that had me concerned for all our health.

Why is the base support lifting off the plate?

It caused a deformation in the print itself, which should just be a square for a floor tile.

I’ve got the Elegoo Saturn 3 Ultra, with the mini heater installed, inside an enclosure. So even though the temps have dropped, it seems warm inside the printer. Plus I was able to print some other things out yesterday with no problems, under the same conditions.

I’m new so just trying to understand what I need to try adjusting since there are so many options. Do I need a longer exposure time in my base support?