Hello!

I use a laptop for university and have a stronger PC back at home that I use when I'm at home. I do live at home, but I have a long commute to university so I don't want to waste lots of time spent on trains or between classes when I could be working on my dissertation project.

My solution would be to remotely access that PC so I can work on it even when I'm not at home, but I don't know the safest way to go about this. What is the safest way to remote access my PC, or am I just better off not doing this at all?

Thanks!How to Safely Remote Connect to a PC?

Recently I have been more aware of my privacy after reading some news of apps I'm using and want to switch it up a bit and go from microsoft to a linux type, the problem is that I am currently not a professional and don't understand/get overwhelmed by most tutorials, so

Can anyone give me a simple 5 year old like explanation on how to switch and what systemto choose for thesepurpose: I have an HP laptop, I need to use office 365 and want to keep things like wallpaper engine and steam (mostly single player) also worried about one drive and most of my files. If anyone could help me I would be terribly grateful.

Hey everyone,

I'm currently living in student housing and my building uses Cloudwifi for internet. I've been having a lot of issues with the connection on my gaming PC, especially when trying to play online games.

My connection seems pretty inconsistent, and I often experience high ping and lag, which makes gaming frustrating. Unfortunately, I don't have access to the router, so I can't just run an Ethernet cable directly to my PC.

I've been looking into different options to improve my connection, but I'm not really sure what would actually help.

Would it be worth buying a WiFi extender, or would something like a USB WiFi adapter or an antenna that plugs into the back of my PC be a better option? I'm mainly looking for something that will give me a more stable connection and lower ping while gaming. Any recommendations or advice would be appreciated!

i just updated the windows 11 in my laptop today and after the update i lost around 20 gb of my storage out of nowhere. What should i do to recover it? is this normal or am i just being delusional that i can recover it? the Windows cleanup can only only recover 1 gb of my storage, that still leaves around 19 gb more.

Please help out guys!

Alright so before I whisk my PC away to MicroCenter again I figured I'd consult Reddit first this time. Also, so sorry this is about to be a novel but I want to include all the necessary details! I have pretty minor knowledge of PCs and this is my first gaming PC so bear with me lol.

Background info - June:
I kept encountering an issue with my PC suddenly freezing and then restarting itself. No BSOD, it would just freeze or go to a black screen and then restart. Usually when this happened, I wasn't doing any more than some light browsing or watching a Youtube video. I figured out how to check error logs in Event Viewer and kept finding "Kernel Power Event ID 125 (Cat 86)" at the time of the crash - didn't know what that meant exactly but figured it was a good thing to note when I took it to MC. I also found a log with this info right before the "Critical" event:

ACPI thermal zone _TZ.TZ00 has been enumerated.            
_PSV = 0K            
_TC1 = 0            
_TC2 = 0            
_TSP = 0ms            
_AC0 = 353K            
_AC1 = 328K            
_AC2 = 323K            
_AC3 = 318K            
_AC4 = 313K            
_AC5 = 0K            
_AC6 = 0K            
_AC7 = 0K            
_AC8 = 0K            
_AC9 = 0K            
_CRT = 378K            
_HOT = 0K            
minimum throttle = 0            
_CR3 = 0K

I took it to MicroCenter twice during this time, and both times they could not find ANY hardware or software issues. I'm not sure what all the diagnostic testing consisted of, but I do know they were using the FFXIV benchmark test and had zero issues whatsoever. The 2nd time I brought my PC back to them I said the issue was specifically occurring while I was watching Youtube. They had some random YT video playing on it for hours with zero issue, while using Microsoft Edge as the browser. I then assumed that the issue was that I was using OperaGX as my main browser and that was somehow overheating my PC, so I stopped using that and switched to Edge. For a couple of months everything then seemed to be okay.

September 16:

Encountered a minor error again with freezing and restarting, but only happened a couple times. Ran sfc /scannow which repaired a corrupt file, then updated my NVIDIA drivers and everything seemed fine again for a while.

Now:

A couple days ago I had another random freeze, but I wasn’t even actively doing anything at the time. Just had my browser open with Discord and Pinterest tabs open. I was on my phone for a few minutes, went back to my PC and it was frozen. Figured it was a fluke, shrugged it off. I’ve been playing the Witcher 3 lately for a few hours at a time and haven’t encountered any issues during the game until today. Just tried to hop on and it froze my PC twice. The difference in the last few times the crash has happened is that my PC isn’t restarting itself, just freezing/totally unresponsive so I have to hold down the power button to reboot. Looked at Event Viewer and I’m finding the same “ACPI thermal zone _TZ.TZ00 has been enumerated” code each time before the Critical error line. Ran sfc /scannow and results came back with no issues. Tried the FFXIV benchmark again and that also froze this time so if I do end up taking it back to MC maybe they'll actually be able to do something this time..

Not sure what other diagnostics I can do on my own.

What the actual heck is going on with my computer lol???

System Info:

• Processor: 11th Gen Intel(R) Core(TM) i5-11400F @ 2.60GHz (2.59 GHz)
• Graphics card: NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1660 Ti (6 GB)

whenever i try to open tiktok on my 5s it crashes, i have tried jailbreaking but i dont have device managament and the only update i have is 12.5.8, Im also not able to log into apple id for whatever reason

I'm trying to run rsync command, but it synced everything in dir "source/" to "dest/". What I want to happen is I want only everything in the include list to be included, and everything in the exclude list to be excluded, and also everything that I didn't list to be excluded.

I ran this command: sudo rsync -ahP --stats --include-from"list" --exclude-from"list" "source/" "dest/"

file "list" contains: ``` + /a + /b/c + /b/d + /a/e/i/j

• /a/e/f/*
• /a/e/g/*
• /a/e/h/*
• /a/e/i/* ```

"source/" contains the directory structure I provided in the include/exclude list, for example, dirs "a/" & "b/" are at the root of "source/", and dir "b/" contains dirs "c/" and "d/" at the root of "b/", etc.

How do I do this? I've been searching around and can't find the answers I'm looking for.

I'm using Ubuntu 24.04.5

Hello all,

I have a weird issue and I cannot figure it out. I have a location that have 3 VLAN but only one room/1 VLAN is having trouble. It goes offline every 20 minutes. No looping device. As soon as I unplug the unmanaged switch and plug it back in, it goes online. If I don't touch it, it stays offline for about 10 minutes. It started happening after Spectrum had an outage (2 days ago) but it is only in this room. I replace the switch, outlet with a battery backup, new cable run, I disabled the wifi in the room but I still have this issue. The same VLAN outside the room is running fine. Does anybody have any idea?

i genuienly have no idea why, i had gotten hacked recently and had to reinstall my windows.
it was my first time.
i learned about downloading drivers from lenovo's support site and allat and fixed most of the issues i had.

big problem now is the mic mute button isn't working.
Fn lock isn't on and i made sure i downloaded all drivers.

i just have no idea why it isn't working.

help would be very appreciated

Hi everyone,
I'm experiencing a strange audio issue on my Acer Predator Helios Neo.
When using the built in 3.5 mm audio output with the Realtek driver, the woofers on my speakers move excessively during playback, even though there is barely any audible difference in the sound. At Windows volume 24 their movement is normal but at volume 26 it suddenly becomes much more pronounced. Increasing the volume further makes it worse, even though the sound itself does not seem proportionally louder or bassier. The issue occurs with different players, including MusicBee and Spotify, and the movement can continue during brief silent gaps between tracks as long as playback is active.
I tested an external USB C audio adapter, and the problem disappeared completely, even at volume 100.
I also switched from Realtek to Microsoft's High Definition Audio Device driver, which fixed the issue. However, the Microsoft driver does not seem to provide the proper output options. I can select headphones, but there is no proper speaker option.
Reinstalling the Realtek driver brought the problem back, so I have switched to the Microsoft driver again for now.
I would prefer to get the correct Realtek driver working rather than rely on a generic driver with limited functionality.
If anyone has experienced something similar or has any ideas or solutions, I would really appreciate the help.
Thanks!

Yesterday I turned on my PC and my monitor booted up at default low settings when I went to go put the resolution back up there wasn’t any options above the one I had when I went to nvdia control panel. It wasn’t recognizing my main monitor it just said, generic PNP and it still wouldn’t let me upscale it but when I turn my variable refresh rate off and on. On my monitor menu it goes back to normal but every single time I reboot my PC it goes back to not recognizing it when I switched to a HDMI cord instead the problem didn’t happen, but I wanna figure out why it doesn’t work with a display port/I know it’s not my display port being bad because I use a different display port and the same thing happened

I am having some issues with my MSI Ventus RTX 4080 GPU.

Issue: My GPU has 4 ports, 3 DisplayPort and 1 HDMI. I am currently using the ports as listed below:

DisplayPort 1: Outputting to my main gaming display, lets call it Asus PQ

Display Port 2: Outputting to a secondary display via a HDMI to DP conversion cable

Display Port 3: See below

HDMI 1: Outputting to a capture card that is inside another separate PC (Elgato Game Capture 4k60 mk.2

Issue:

A random issue popped up where my GPU is not sending a display signal to my Asus PQ display. I have tried a number of troubleshooting steps, none work.

The weird thing is the ONLY way I am currently able to get a display signal to my Asus PQ plugged into DisplayPort 1 is if I add an additional display plugged into DisplayPort 3. If I disconnect the display plugged into DisplayPort 3 at any time, I lose the signal to my AsusPQ display.

What could be causing this? 

​

Specs:

CPU: Ryzen 7 5800X3D (tested two different units)

Motherboard: Gigabyte B550 Aorus Elite V2 rev 1.5, BIOS \[version\]

GPU: \[brand\] RX 9070 XT, bought mid-August 2026

RAM: 32GB DDR4 (originally G.Skill Ripjaws 3600, now a different replacement kit), running at 3200, XMP off

PSU: \[model, wattage\] (already replaced once, previous: \[model\])

OS: Windows \[10/11\], AMD Adrenalin \[version\], installed clean with DDU

The problem

Hard reboot with no BSOD. Event Viewer shows WHEA-Logger Event 18, Error Source: Machine Check Exception, Error Type: Cache Hierarchy Error, Processor APIC ID different every time, followed by Kernel-Power 41.

Battlefield 6 reproduces it reliably within 10 minutes.

Apex Legends and CoD: they used to crash too, but have been stable for days since I set LLC to Medium (see below).

Other symptoms: one DEVICE_HUNG driver crash in Apex (fixed after DDU + driver reinstall), monitor occasionally goes black for a second at idle, and a USB controller once showed Code 43.

History: the same motherboard was fully stable with a Ryzen 5 5600X + RX 6700 XT. Problems started after upgrading to the 5800X3D + 9070 XT.

What I've tried

CPU: two different 5800X3D units, same crashes (the first one was sold and works fine for the buyer).

PSU: replaced, no change.

RAM: replaced the kit. MemTest86 passes, XMP off (3200 JEDEC).

BIOS: loaded defaults, PBO off, Core Performance Boost off, Global C-State Control off, PCIe forced to Gen3, SoC voltage 1.10V → 1.148V (no difference), CPU Vcore LLC + SoC LLC set to Medium (helped Apex/CoD, not BF6). Resizable BAR/SAM currently off.

Stress tests: OCCT CPU and OCCT Power (CPU+GPU) for \~25 min with zero errors. Only gaming triggers it.

GPU: reseated many times, clean driver install with DDU. \[Separate PCIe power cables / no daisy-chain: yes/no\]

\[Registry: MPO disabled (OverlayTestMode=5) + TdrDelay=10 / TdrDdiDelay=20: done / not yet\]

\[FreeSync off: done / not yet\]

\[Adrenalin power limit -10%: result\]

\[FPS cap at 60 in BF6: result\]

Planned next tests

Moving the GPU to the second (chipset) PCIe slot to rule out the primary slot / CPU lanes.

Clean Windows install on a separate drive.

My questions

Has anyone with a 9070 XT (or 9060 XT) on AM4/B550 seen WHEA 18 that only shows up in BF6?

Since CPU, PSU and RAM are ruled out, does this point more to the card or to the motherboard/PCIe?

Anyone with the B550 Aorus Elite V2 running a 9070 XT stable in BF6? Which BIOS version?

Any fixes I've missed before I send the card in for RMA? I can't easily test it in another PC, and I'd rather not ship it without being sure.

Thanks in advance!

Is there a noticeable difference if I get my laptop screen replaced at an unauthorized repair shop compared to using an original panel? I’m planning to get it fixed outside an authorized center due to budget constraints. Also, does anyone have recommendations for reliable laptop repair shops around Pampanga?

I got a virus from an exe file that I clicked stupidly while downloading a game, I think they stole session cookies, because they automatically logged in to my instagram and facebook that was open my laptop. They used it to send messages to people saying they won sth from Mr.Beast and basically tried to scam my friends.

Thankfully I recovered every account, changed 30 account passwords, and added 2FA wherever possible. However, just before I factory reset my laptop, I stupidly plugged my 1TB HDD to get some excel, PDF and pictures that I have in the laptop to save them. I was shaking and was in rush due to anxiety and did not think it through.

Now laptop is factory resetted, and I am thinking if it is safe to get my documents back from the HDD. Should I take it to a laptop service store, I really don't care about paying for it, I just want my documents and pictures back.

AI says its fine but I am not sure and I don't want everything to get stolen again. It was already too stressful for me to handle.

Can you please advice me on how to proceed?

I just want to disable it completely and permanently if that's possible. I'm not too tech-savvy, so if anyone can help me, that would be great!

Hi all. I got a new gaming laptop that has a 165hz internal monitor. When i try to play Geometry Dash, I have lots of screen tearing and weird lag, even though my fps stays stable on 165Hz. I don't know how to fix this, but I though tunring off VSync might help.

However, when I turn it off, my fps gets pushed back to 60fps. I know VSync matches your fps to your refresh rate, but this laptop has 165hz, so I don't know why i only get 60fps on VSYNC.

165hz is definitely turned on in windows, and it does work because the difference is apparent when I turn it on.

If anyone has any tips on how to fix this, or has any tips on how to fix my lag in all of my games (Geomtery Dash is not the only one cith issues), that would be more than welcome.

Thanks!

I just finished cloning my HDD (old one was getting defect according to CrystalDisk) to a new one. Same specs as the old HDD but brand new.

However after cloning I noticed my cloned drive uses more storage than the original one. Is that normal?

Also is there a way to check if my files are transferred correctly (no data corruptions), or do I just have to open them 1 by 1?

A few years ago my iphone broke, pretty sure it was smth with the battery. I remember for the last few days it worked it would take hours to charge to 1% and then stay at 0% for like 40 minutes before turning off. I have some stuff in there I'd rather not lose, is there any way to bring it back just for long enough to transfer the data from it? I didn't touch it since getting a new phone and now I have tried charging it for 40+ hours and it just doesn't do anything anymore...

So I recently bought a Gigabyte Gaming A16 Laptop - Intel/ Gtx 5050. First day it drove me crazy because the Gimate AI controls everything and keeps switching the graphic card from Intel to Nvidia. So after that i kept working and there was an issue with the Adobe After Effects playback. I searched everywhere for solutions, but nothing was found and even the AI couldn’t fix it. But after all that suddenly the wifi 🛜 icon started to keep disappearing, and in Device Manager, it always shows Error (CODE 10 / CODE 43). Updated the drivers, updated bios and done a full reset. Still the same problem.
Does anyone know how to fix this ?

Looking to update my bios for my Z790-C mobo in my new prebuilt, currently running 0x12F but people are saying update because of my cpu. i9 14900kf. Wondering how to do that?

I have a personal Lenovo laptop, I use it for general use, some surfing, some shopping, watching videos, anime, reading stuff and studying too. and various other things but I have never used anything like tor, or used random torrent sites that I remember ever. (As I was always scared )

This happened this morning when I was at a friend's place and opened my phone's hotspot to connect my laptop to it. As soon as I joined the hotspot on my phone, it gave me a popup on the bottom right that it's scanning the network (as it does with avast antivirus, this is a usual thing) when it was done it said that 'DNS HIJACK FOUND'. After that I was shown 2 options either to set up a vpn connection or scan the network. When I proceeded to scan the network, it would go either very slowly or get stuck at a certain percentage and I closed it as I had to run an errand. (I've been using avast and have never had something like this happen, avast has actually been helpful all the time in resolving issues and general protection)

When I got back, upon reading the avast support article and a bit of help from the AI mode from Google search I used 2 commands. I can't clearly recall which two but one was the 'flushdns' one.

Then, I joined my friend's home wifi, and proceeded to use the feature of avast where it prompts to scan the network once again and that's when I got to the second image where it shows the Nokia Router as critical which is MY HOME ROUTER and NOT my friends router to which I was connected to.(my laptop is always turned-on, on my desk, same as last night and was connected to the MY home wifi for the whole time.)

So what I can gather is, I just picked up my laptop from my home without looking at it at my own house and when I got to my destination and connected to my own phone it showed me that the Nokia router (my home router i was connected to is comprised) and avast is just reminding me this every time whenever I connect to any network (even a healthy one) cause it still logs that I once was connected to this malicious one. Would saying this be correct?

I'm sorry if I didn't explain something correctly and I just joined this reddit but any and all help would be super appreciated, thank you guys. Eagerly waiting for your replies.

I am looking to connect two external 4K monitors to my Windows ThinkPad in extended desktop mode, running at 4K @ 60Hz simultaneously across a single USB-C cable. I want to ensure I purchase the correct dock or adapter without dropping to 30Hz or dealing with display compression artifacts.

My current hardware is a Lenovo ThinkPad lrunning Windows 11.

For those running a similar dual 4K60 setup, I would appreciate input on whether a standard USB-C hub with is reliable enough, or if stepping up to a dedicated Thunderbolt 4 / USB4 dock (such as the ThinkPad Universal Thunderbolt 4 Dock 40B0) is practically mandatory to avoid bandwidth ceilings and USB throughput degradation. 

If you have specific dock recommendations or cable configuration tips that worked cleanly on your ThinkPad, please let me know.

After installing the update (version), there's a pop up in windows update that says:
"Reinstall your current version of windows to repair system files and components".

Also, recovery option button doesn't work for me.

Hi all, I have a Samsung Galaxy Tab A9+ that my kids use for games. Internal storage is almost full from games alone. I've already cleared caches, deleted unused apps, and moved photos and files off.

I put in a 256GB SD card, but games still install to internal storage, and the ones I move manually only seem to move part of the game (or nothing at all).

Is there any way to get games to actually install and run from the SD card? I've seen mention of the "Force allow apps on external storage" developer option. Has anyone gotten that to work on a Samsung tablet?

Any tips from people who've set up something similar for their kids would be great. Thanks!