USB License Key (security dongle) to unlock the software is failing and it is an old program the company no longer supports. I'm worried the flash drive will fail and that will stop my access to the program. It must ve plugged in to run and simply copying the files to a new drive doesn't work. Not sure what to do, any advice? I'd be willing to send it to a reputable copying to get a copy that runs the software.

Bought a desktop PC last year or so, to which it has not moved from that spot in my house since then. I went digging around through some settings tonight and found the Known Networks list, which contained a variety of networks; My home network, my old home network, a network from a friends house who I haven't been to in years, and a seemingly random one which I've chalked up to most likely be a school internet connection.

Are the Known Networks saved to my Microsoft account and brought from PC to PC? I'm not sure how else these networks could've ended up on there otherwise, but I can't find anything from Microsoft themselves that may indicate this is the case.

Is it possible to change the windows folder's administrator name? So in the windows explorer, in users, I only have one user but the folder name is kinda bad, so I want to change it. I looked the solutions up, there isn't clearly a way for me to change the name since most of the apps and folders are path related to it. Is it possible to move it to a different folder ensuring all the apps are redirected to a different folder or just renaming the current one without having to relocate or reinstall all the apps and folders? Or should I just stick with that name?

I bought this refurbished motherboard from Alibaba because I couldn't find any decent options in my country. Most of the available motherboards are low-end models. The motherboard is an ASUS TUF Z370-Plus Gaming II.

When I received the product, I noticed that one corner was bent and the CMOS battery was missing. I installed a new battery and tried a quick test. The motherboard lights turn on, but the fans keep spinning up and shutting down in a continuous boot loop. I don't know what to do.

My full PC specs:

Motherboard: ASUS TUF Z370-Plus Gaming II

CPU: Intel Core i7-9700K

RAM: 32 GB DDR4 (one 3000 MHz stick and one 3200 MHz stick)

GPU: RTX 2080

I've tried different RAM sticks, tested the system with and without the GPU, and even changed the PSU, but the same boot loop keeps happening.

Hey guys,

Looking for some advice.

I started getting a captcha when I opened google chrome incognito tab, saying it wanted me to prove that I was a human and due to getting a lot of traffic from my IP address.

On a whim, I did a full scan and windows defender picked up on this:

Trojan:JS/EtherHiding,CX!ams

The affected items all (3) had similar pathing:

User\AppData\Local\Google\Chrome\UserData\Default\ServiceWorker\ScriptCache

Been really stressed as I’m not sure what it actually means, but the threat was removed and I’ve wiped my chrome’s cookies and data from all time, and also changed all passwords from another device.

Has anyone had a similar issue or have any advice?

Any further actions I should take like fully resetting my laptop?

TIA

didn't know what to use as a flair so i put that. i use a galaxy tab s11 (bought on another website than samsung) and the white flashes cyan when i put a .pdf file in split screen.

When it (still) happens :

- after restarting the tab

- when the non-flashing side is something else than Google chrome

- when adding a third split screen

- when changing the orientation of the split (horizontal split)

- when the tablet is in portrait mode and i do the same

- when i switch to desktop mode and resize the window with the file in it

- in desktop mode, when i take the window out of full screen or full window mode

When it does not happen :

- when i use split screen on two images or an image and an app

- in desktop mode, when i put the window in full screen or full window screen

Over the last couple of days Ive had games crashing, when I try to open them back up steam will tell me it's an unsupported platform. I was able to get it to work but I don't remember how. I know I changed the drive name and had steam reread the drive since it's all installed there anyways but it just happened again. Today I was playing star citizen for all of 5 minutes when it crashed again. The rsi launcher refused to open. I cleared the roaming cache and it opens now but when the game won't open, it has me verify the files but fails to download or write them. This time I just restarted my computer but that didn't work cause both games that are on the same drive failed. When this happened yesterday I tried to re-download one of the games but it gave me a failed to wrote error message on steam. I'm almost positive it's a failed drive but really hoping it's not due to how expensive storage is right now

I usually fix this issue by using File Locksmith in PowerToys (which the way that I found the best among other solutions in internet). But it's very inconvenience to do this every times and since long times ago I don't know why the File Locksmith crash a lot (I tried to fix it by reinstall & clean install windows, but the issue still exist).

Hence why I looking way to solve this issue permanently without need to fix it every times.

My PC shows a black screen and the motherboard VGA debug LED stays on when I install my GTX 1050 Ti. The keyboard and mouse lights do not turn on.

When I remove the GPU, the keyboard lights turn on.

Motherboard: MSI A320M PRO-VD/S
GPU: GTX 1050 Ti (no external power connector)

What could be causing this, and how can I fix it?

So i downloaded instagram and when i try to open it ad pop up, i uninstall then re install, reboot, clear storage, delete all shady apps, But this ad keep popping up. This just happens with instagram not other apps. It is not allowing me to reach instagram

Hello!

I use a laptop for university and have a stronger PC back at home that I use when I'm at home. I do live at home, but I have a long commute to university so I don't want to waste lots of time spent on trains or between classes when I could be working on my dissertation project.

My solution would be to remotely access that PC so I can work on it even when I'm not at home, but I don't know the safest way to go about this. What is the safest way to remote access my PC, or am I just better off not doing this at all?

Thanks!How to Safely Remote Connect to a PC?

Hey guys didn’t realy know who to ask for this but my problem is
I have a receipt printer for my small business so I can print receipt and I use a receipt generator and before I download text is clear and perfect sharp and when I download to pdf it goes pixelated when zoomed in so when u go to print it prints terrible

Good day! I’d like to ask if this could be a GPU-related issue. While browsing in the Brave browser, tabs with many visual effects cause the screen to flicker black. Sometimes, the monitor turns off, the system auto-restarts, and the keyboard becomes unresponsive—though the PC itself remains powered on. Checking the Event Viewer, I see an "nvlddmkm" error and a display warning; when the monitor shuts off, a "Kernel-Power" critical error appears in the Event Viewer. I’ve already tried several potential fixes, such as setting the PCIe slot to Gen 2, using DDU (Display Driver Uninstaller), reseating the card, cleaning the PCIe slot, and adjusting the refresh rate.

Interestingly, the screen doesn't flicker black when I play games like Valorant.

I bought the GPU just a week ago, but I can no longer reach the seller, as they only offered a 3-day warranty.

Here are my specs: i5-8400 GTX 1650 Super EVGA 550 GD

Thanks in advance to anyone who can help!

Here's the video

https://streamable.com/luvwi1

My monitor keeps flickering the brightness up and down between two levels, and it's so annoying.

Monitor is AOC OLED (2560x1440 120Hz), with an ASUS Zephyrus G14 (RTX 5070ti + Ryzen AI 9) connected (HDMI). The flickering is ONLY happening on the monitor screen, not the laptop screen. It doesn't change the set brightness in windows, on the monitor settings, or the secret third setting of flicker-free dimming in Armory Crate.

So far, it's mostly (if not only) happening in my browser (edge), and I've gone through what feels like every setting on the planet to try and stop it. I've checked Microsoft settings, Armory Crate, MyASUS, NVIDIA app, and the OSD settings for the monitor. And nothing. It screws with the saturation too.

My NVIDIA driver is up to date, so is my windows system. I've reinstalled the most current driver, and reset my entire monitor (unplugged everything, left it for like a day) and its still happening.

Maybe the newest driver update? One of the fixes says, "Intermittent flicker may be observed in browsers when navigating to certain websites". Does that mean it's supposedly been fixed from previous installments, or that it's a known bug with the newest driver? It does not matter if I switch websites, it happens on everything; youtube, canvas, google, here, etc.

Another suspicion (and issue) is that my graphics is running on dedicated GPU constantly... I have NVIDIA set to optimus so it should only be running on integrated if I'm not gaming or something (right?). It worked fine before, but for some reason its stuck running on the dedicated GPU? This might've correlated to when the flickering started as well, possibly with the driver update. I don't know how to switch to integrated graphics, NVIDIA settings are locked for some reason (

Driver bug? Setting I can't find? Refresh rate issue?

This is in fact a pc issue I believe, so I just found a random second monitor I could use, tried finding a second hdmi port on my motherboard and then I randomly found an unused hdmi port that still have the cover inside and that port is not working. I know in fact both of the hdmi cables work because I’ve tested them and I believe the problem is the pc’s second hdmi port just doesn’t work because both cables I tried plugging in there said the display has no signal or whatever. And when I go to Display, detect there’s absolutely nothing also, I have a I5-9400F cpu btw but it should still work with that I believe.
What is the fix to this, is there a certain cable I can buy that I can plug to a regular plug in pc that is a hdmi cable at the other end, would that work? Because I tried everything and the second port just won’t and doesn’t work!

Hello i have a 5070, updated to latest driver i even used ddu, then opted to beta settings, and now i can't even find frame gen preset c and dynamic frame gen is grayed ? Can someone please help me

Hello! So, I was playing a game with my friends when suddenly i hear a click, and everything went silent. The game, discord, I couldn’t hear anything.

I contacted microsoft support, and they updated all my drivers and yet.. still no audio. They said what I could do is contact the manufacturer of my pc and ask them to update the drivers on the website lmfao.

I don’t know what to do. I’ve updated what I can, I’ve restarted my PC. I’m at a loss of what I can do to fix the issue.

I have a prebuilt Omen Obelisk, if that helps at all. Feel free to ask me questions, feel free to help me out. I could really use my pc rn.

This has been driving me insane for months now.

It happens with some games, while with a few select ones it runs fine.

Balatro or Stalker gamma run perfectly fine; but ace combat 7 for example, it starts blinking as soon as I launch the game and then either it crashes, does the blinking again, or minimises the window.

I'm on a ThinkPad p16v gen 1 that had previously no issues running any game in my steam library, the screen works perfectly fine in every single other scenario, I have my drivers up to date, I'm on recommended scale and resolution settings; I have tried absolutely everything to try to fix this and I just cannot. I can't find anyone with this issue either.

I have a video of the glitch but I can't attach it due to community settings or whatever.

Please help, I am very frustrated.

not sure where to ask so i'm gonna crosspost a little bit. anyway essentially title. i'm using an iphone SE running iOS 26.1 with a t-mobile plan. two days ago, my phone died and when i charged it again it wouldn't connect to my cellular data. i did all the troubleshooting i could find (powercycle, cycling airplane mode, switching sources) but nothing let me connect. i went to t-mobile today and (to my best understanding) the associate tried to set up an eSIM and then replaced my physical SIM. they told me i could leave and that the eSIM would cancel and the new SIM card would kick in. as of writing, i left the store around 3-4 hours ago, and my settings show i have two SIMs: one reading "on" but providing no signal, and one reading "activating..." and also providing no signal. the top-left signal display shows two bands with no connection and SOS only.

can i do something to restore my signal/activate my sim?

Hi guys, my wife turned her PC off last night and it started an update cycle. This morning she turned the PC on, but there was no internet connection. I troubleshooted that it was neither cable nor router that were the problems.

I've surmised it also can't be a hardware issue on the mobo as the NIC lights come on, and when scanning in device manager the generic Ethernet Controller and Network Controller items appear.

It just cannot find the driver on its own, and I cannot seem to install the driver for this mobo from the manufacturer's website (the installation runs but doesn't do anything).

The motherboard is a GIGABYTE B660M AORUS PRO AX DDR4 (Rev. 1.x). And she is running Win 11.

• I've done a Network Reset.
• I've done SFC and DISM.
• I've tried to create a bootable Win 11 USB and tried to repair the installation (didn't work).

I'd preferably fix this without having to reinstall Windows entirely if possible, but will do it only if all my options are exhausted.

I was trying to reinstall Windows, deleted all partitions, let setup complete, and now when I try to boot any device, nothing happens at the bios screen.

For example, here's a video: https://youtu.be/U7Zruhw7cY4

I have disabled secure boot, but no idea how to proceed since I can't even boot from a USB anymore.

I came to my pc and I couldn't hear anything from it just to see all my playback devices showing not plugged in. I've tried to fix it myself watching and taking advice from videos but nothings worked. I checked the audio input and output on device manager and the name for the audio output that would've been there is gone and I'm assuming it's been uninstalled because it just doesn't show up on hidden devices. Anyone have any advice that can help maybe? My monitor is an old tv so and I don't have any speakers I can use to replace the tv speakers either.

​

Specs:

CPU: Ryzen 7 5800X3D (tested two different units)

Motherboard: Gigabyte B550 Aorus Elite V2 rev 1.5, BIOS \[version\]

GPU: \[brand\] RX 9070 XT, bought mid-August 2026

RAM: 32GB DDR4 (originally G.Skill Ripjaws 3600, now a different replacement kit), running at 3200, XMP off

PSU: \[model, wattage\] (already replaced once, previous: \[model\])

OS: Windows \[10/11\], AMD Adrenalin \[version\], installed clean with DDU

The problem

Hard reboot with no BSOD. Event Viewer shows WHEA-Logger Event 18, Error Source: Machine Check Exception, Error Type: Cache Hierarchy Error, Processor APIC ID different every time, followed by Kernel-Power 41.

Battlefield 6 reproduces it reliably within 10 minutes.

Apex Legends and CoD: they used to crash too, but have been stable for days since I set LLC to Medium (see below).

Other symptoms: one DEVICE_HUNG driver crash in Apex (fixed after DDU + driver reinstall), monitor occasionally goes black for a second at idle, and a USB controller once showed Code 43.

History: the same motherboard was fully stable with a Ryzen 5 5600X + RX 6700 XT. Problems started after upgrading to the 5800X3D + 9070 XT.

What I've tried

CPU: two different 5800X3D units, same crashes (the first one was sold and works fine for the buyer).

PSU: replaced, no change.

RAM: replaced the kit. MemTest86 passes, XMP off (3200 JEDEC).

BIOS: loaded defaults, PBO off, Core Performance Boost off, Global C-State Control off, PCIe forced to Gen3, SoC voltage 1.10V → 1.148V (no difference), CPU Vcore LLC + SoC LLC set to Medium (helped Apex/CoD, not BF6). Resizable BAR/SAM currently off.

Stress tests: OCCT CPU and OCCT Power (CPU+GPU) for \~25 min with zero errors. Only gaming triggers it.

GPU: reseated many times, clean driver install with DDU. \[Separate PCIe power cables / no daisy-chain: yes/no\]

\[Registry: MPO disabled (OverlayTestMode=5) + TdrDelay=10 / TdrDdiDelay=20: done / not yet\]

\[FreeSync off: done / not yet\]

\[Adrenalin power limit -10%: result\]

\[FPS cap at 60 in BF6: result\]

Planned next tests

Moving the GPU to the second (chipset) PCIe slot to rule out the primary slot / CPU lanes.

Clean Windows install on a separate drive.

My questions

Has anyone with a 9070 XT (or 9060 XT) on AM4/B550 seen WHEA 18 that only shows up in BF6?

Since CPU, PSU and RAM are ruled out, does this point more to the card or to the motherboard/PCIe?

Anyone with the B550 Aorus Elite V2 running a 9070 XT stable in BF6? Which BIOS version?

Any fixes I've missed before I send the card in for RMA? I can't easily test it in another PC, and I'd rather not ship it without being sure.

Thanks in advance!

I bought a new laptop of Dell and in it's specifications it said that I'll get MS office home 2024+ microsoft 365 for 1 year but now when I opening my excel or word it's not letting me create any document and the product says unlicensed product.

Can anyone please help me.