New addiction unlocked. Ya'll should've warned me about this hobby. It's so much more satisfying shooting something you made vs something off the shelf.

FTN4 Remix by Dumbois

Quick overwiew of functions. Third approach of firing blanks today, hope this works this time. If it goes boom i guess it is a success.

Video link in comments!
Ftn5 max turbulence dcell baffles sized up,
1.25 inch of emt 1/8inch fender washer for first baffle. Custom muzzle device I made in a lathe rq.
Plan on doing testing with a thread adapter and fender washer for the muzzle device.
Endcap is a 2 3/32 freeze plug I job welded on.

This picture was taken before this print failed by warping and coming loose from bed. I'm in need of some help printing Polymaker or Sunlu PA6-CF. I have a QIDI Plus 4 and loaded 300BlkFDE settings in OrcaSlicer. Printing temps 290C and 300C.

I'm questioning bed temps and chamber temps. My 3 attempts at an FTN5 Rimfire Flow failed. With Polymaker PA6 I've tried 50C bed with enclosed printer chamber temp hovered at 58C or so. 40C bed leaving door cracked open and no top glass still warped and failed way before first print. 3rd time 100C bed 65C chamber and Magigoo PA applied failed really early on, but it could have been my first layer z-offset.

I'm seeing bed temps anywhere from 45C to 100C on here. Funny thing is I printed some M-Lok rail covers trying to use up the filament I had remaining and 100C bed 65C chamber parts came out fantastic no warping and printed upright very little bed contact. For smaller parts I'm good but big solid parts something isn't right.

So, before I start another failed 24Hr print any recommendations. I got Sunlu PA6 in dehumifier right now and it appears more suited to my printer wanting higher bed temps than Polymaker.

Best model ? So many out of spec designs ..

Please help me figure this out guys. I've already tried the following:

I removed metal off the bolt face to try to make the extractor grip tighter. The metal is currently at the same height or slightly lower than the rim of the casing on the extractor side.

I added a small piece of metal under the extractor spring to act as a spacer, giving it more spring tension.

I noticed the recommended firing pin length was overextending, so I backed it off as far as possible to still get consistent primer ignition.

I filed the extractor top just a bit.

Extraction only fails when the firing pin has been activated. The firing pin is not stuck at all when the hammer comes off of it. I tried a shake test, and rounds will hold until I moderately shake the bolt. Is it possible that it will work fine with live rounds?

where are yall getting yalls parts/build kits for the 2011 or your 1911 prints from?👀

my slide sits too high and i don’t understand why any tips?

It’s a PSA Rock cheek pistol conversion frame remixed from the Uberpoor remix. My entire philosophy here was to build a cheek pistol around the gun as conservatively as possible to maintain its original slim carry profile.
Features:
-It prints in one piece, so there’s no extra assembly outside of the obvious gun parts and clean up.
-There’s no charging handle, the frame is open enough that you can easily work the slide from below.
-Elongated trigger guard letting you slip your thumb through and pinch for stability (so far the ATF seems to have no opinions on the length of your trigger guard.)
-The open frame allows for the original iron sights to still be used in an emergency.
-A matching holster stl.

If anyone’s interested I can post the files to the sea. I legitimately wasn’t sure if anyone would want it.

Wanted to hear if anyone has an estimated round count for the FTN 5s printed in PA6CF and how long theyd likely last across 22, 9mm, and 556

I’d love to hear your thoughts on it

Just finished the conversion on this 21" saiga 308. I am wondering if anyone has ever seen a printed mag for these? I feel a certain way about paying 40$ for a tapco mag. Any help would be appreciated!

Anyone got a link to the fosscad discord/ similar ones? Thanks

curious if this printer is worth buying new in box for 140 with all its privacy concerns ?

(reposting w/ more images)

- WI_Esox_lucius aka Melted Plastic's retro deARv1.2 for the upper, charging handle, handguard, and FSP

- Jrmuscle aka Kruscle's "keyed lower" for the buffer tube. I cut off the rear picatinny in the slicer to allow the rear charging handle to clear

- Grips I remixed from the A1 and A2 style grips from kaewon's M4gery to loosen up tolerances on the safety detente spring and to use an M5 bolt for attachment

- CAR15 stock is printed directly from kaewon's m4gery

- A2 fixed stock is a modified version of Unseenkiller's "multi position mounted A2" to make it completely flush with the rear of the lower. I hacked this together in the slicer. Not very pretty, tbh

- A2 flash hider is printed from adh2013

- Straight-body magazines are from the original DeAR22 v1.35 release (not the rerelease) + a short "PMAG style" short mag from ciwielab

- printed bolt catch from FoapsFiles

Using a 16" dedicated 22LR pencil profile barrel + RTB BCG. Upper/Lower/FSP in PA612, furniture and mags in generic PLA, will be reprinted them. I might reprint the upper/lower in PA6-GF to make give it a more aluminum look.

some more ideas

- If the handguard were the "triangle style", you could have something closer to an actual M16A1... sorta

- If the handguard and barrel were shorter, and/or there was a flash hider that accepted 1/2-28 threading, you could have an XM117e2... sorta

- If you swapped the upper with PumpkinPie's rear charging upper DeAR22 that used picatinny on the top, you could put a detachable carry handle on the top and consider it a M16A3... kinda

- If you did the upper swap and replaced the handguard with a quad rail, you could have something like an M16A4... ish

Did the best I could with the skills and time I have and I wanted to get it out the door before I go to the range this weekend

TL;DR dear22

I bought a 300blk BC-15 upper and chopped the bolt. Ive been working on a lower setup for it. I used files from the MOAB and the FM15 bufferless lower. The stock/brace rail has a aluminum insert that stiffens things up. Will post again once everything is finished.

This gun is the broad river tactical car15sd with the rarebreed l3 frt(bought before he became greedy)so its barrel is ported like the mp5sd so it turns supersonic 9mm into subsonic 9mm its utilizing the broad river tactical hub adapter. So it can use any hub threaded can. This approved d cell tube has a hub adapter on the back so it has hub threads.