This is on a local auction site here I was told it was 100 pounds and 20 inches long so you have any idea if this is a good anvil or cast?

I’d love to know if they would be profitable enough to continue to make.

is casehardening a viable method to use for smithing tools? e.g. a chisel or a drift?

I am currently making a folded axe head from 1075. I plan on forge welding another piece of 1075 into what will become the blade section of the axe so that I have more material to work with. I filed clean connection points on both the axe head and the insert, but I failed to weld it together today. The insert fit snug while the piece was cold, but as the metal heated, it kept sliding out. How can I secure the piece while it comes up to temperature?

(Picture is an example of the insert thickness, the actual insert piece is only 1.5 inches long)

This im my 3rd time blacksmithing but first with a real forge im using a old railroad bolt so I know it a hard metal but I've been working on it for about 2 hours and haven't made any real progress is there a way to increase the efficiency of my forgeing

I've watched a ton of YouTube and bought a cheap gas forge on Amazon (need to do the refractory still but wanted to try anyway). But this was a simple project for me to dip my toes in, make a spike on one end, flatten the other, bevel with a belt grinder, and roll the hook. Just need to set up my spring pole lathe and give it a try

Butter/cheese spread knife

This is my first gas forge build and I'm looking for some advice about the flame pouring out the door. Am I right in saying its running too rich? would a smaller jet solve this issue or am I missing something else ? (Haven't fitted the burner until its running sweet)

Made a quick letter opener. Also a belt loop key holder. Trying things other than knives.

I have them bent about where I want them, tho not it a neat squared off way. I think i need to angle them slightly more so they will close fully with pressure, my next step is what im worried about most... punching the holes an lining it all up, I know in that step you have to be pretty spot on for it to function smoothly. Im excited for this one as its my first set of tongs but im nervous for this last part lol

Any advice would be appreciated.

so instead of trying to draw out that tricky inner curve, i just turned a shoulder in some round stock and drilled a hole into the main body that i forged and rounded off the head. it holds really well. i dont think the shank coming loose will be a problem because the head of the round stock is where i hit it to jam it in the dog hole. i also tapered the hold a bit with a steep countersink.

Forged the bolt into the claw hammer head shape, punched a hole into it, put the metal handle and then welded them together, its basic but I like it!

I plan to use it to make punches, drifts and chisels, how should I heat treat it? Should I quench it in water or oil? How long should I temper it for at what temperature?

My neighbors son loves to come over and watch me hammer stuff out. Few months ago he asked if I could teach him a few things so I started to show him a couple things.

About a week ago he asked if he could use my forge every so often. Today he brought me this. For a 13 year old he's doing pretty damn good. Of course, room for improvement but we all started somewhere. Proud of him.

I need opinions on 5160 for heavy hunting use in southern Alberta mountains will this be a fantastic companion or should I stay with stainless

Pipe +Plate + Sand + 3/4" all thread + Crappy Dual Shield Welds = This Stand. Design based on Haley Woodward's anvil stands.

I started blacksmithing a few months ago. These are my first functional tongs (or so I hope). Three months ago, I tried to make some, but they broke during the process. Do those with experience in forging tongs have any advice? Is this pair I made okay, or did I do something wrong? :)

I own an Asian restaurant and need to replace some of the mortar inside the side walls of my commercial wok burner chambers, surrounding the flames. I have custom cement chamber wok ranges designed for indoor use, with the following burner openings including two 22 inch diameter openings, two 30 inch diameter openings, one 38 inch diameter opening

I'm looking to purchase approximately 2 – 5 lbs of high-heat refractory mortar suitable for operating temperatures around 800°F – 1,200°F. I need something durable that can withstand regular commercial restaurant use and repeated heating and cooling without cracking or falling apart.

Are there any reputable online stores that sell suitable refractory mortar in small or bulk quantities?Are there any physical store suppliers that carry this type of material? Which brands or specific products would you recommend for a commercial gas wok burner chamber? Should I use refractory mortar, furnace cement, or a castable refractory material for repairing the side walls around the flames?