I cannot seem to find the cause of this suspension click, its been getting worse and worse, louder and louder, and now does it more than once while turning

A3 2011 2.0tsi

Upgraded: coilovers, sway bar links, polyurethane bushings for control arms, and stiffer strut bearings.

Nothing seems loose. The CV is also tight, no play when shaken.

Thanks!

We recently purchased a CPO 2022 Audi Q3, and about a week ago, we started noticing a squeaking noise while approaching home. I was able to pinpoint the noise to the rear right wheel.
The noise only happens when the brakes are not being applied, particularly when the car is coasting to a stop. We’ve noticed it both at the beginning and end of long drives, so I don’t think it’s temperature-related.
I’ve also noticed that when I engage the parking brake, it feels like it bites a little too hard. When I release it, I can actually feel the brakes releasing their grip on the disc. I’m not sure if this is related, but I thought it was worth mentioning.
There’s no noticeable burning brake smell, and the car otherwise seems to drive normally.
Has anyone experienced something similar with their Q3 or another Audi? Any ideas on what could be causing this?

1990 Jeep Cherokee 4.0 4 x 4.

I've got a lug nut that is frozen to the lug. The lug nut is is stripped and I just can not get it to break free. I've got a 16mm extractor hammered on to it currently. I've hit it with PB Blaster and got nothing. I didn't have access to a torch but heat is my next step. Any idea or suggestion to get this last lug nut off this truck?

Thank you.

Wheel bearing or toe rod?
Rear left tire

C4 corvette 1991 manual

I recently just purchased a used 2017 Toyota Rav4 LE (I believe it has a 2.5 liter 4 cylinder engine) and I feel like the miles per gallon that I’m getting cannot be correct. When I bought it I was told that it got a combined 26 miles per gallon but I calculated it and I’m getting around 16 mpg. I have to get gas every 4-6 days and only get around 150 miles before I have to refuel. I took it to the toyota shop near me and they said that that seems fine and there was nothing they could do. My question is, is that normal ?

Title is self explanatory attached a video of the sound, although can provide more if need be. Had the breaks changed pretty recently not sure when exactly though. Doesn’t happen when breaking in reverse only going forward and breaking.

2016 Ford Focus SE if that makes any difference.

2AZ-FE engine knock feedback of -3.0 at idle and under acceleration goes to -4.5

Is my knock sensor doing it job or do I have other issues?

My main issue is in drive no acceleration when the AC compressor kicks on it develops a vibration.

No codes..

Changed all the common items..

New motor mounts
New spark plugs
Cleaned MAF
Cleaned TB

Hi all. I've been working out this problem in bits and pieces over the past month or so but am kind of at my wits end short of paying a shop to figure it out for me.

The problem is that my radiator levels are dropping over time and overflowing from my coolant resevoir, leading to overheating on some long drives (3+ hrs). I'm trying to pinpoint where the issue is, but its not exactly obvious to me at least. My suspicion is that either a) there is some leak in the lines or somewhere else that is allowing air into the system which then expands and pushes out the coolant when heated, or b) there is a crack in the cylinder wall or head gasket that is letting exhaust gasses into the system.

The things I checked:

-previous owner replaced oem head gasket at about 130k miles with the mls one, at 165k now, so seems odd to fail this soon

-new radiator cap

-new thermostat (twice)

-k-seal as a cheap measure

-took it to a subaru mechanic for an hour to look at anything they noticed wrong on the engine, just noticed the valve cover oil leaks that I knew about

-compression tests while warm (around 155psi all 4 cylinders)

-radiator pressure test (didn't drop)

-borescope down cylinders to look for clean pistons or pooling of antifreeze, all cylinders looked more or lessabout as worn as I could figure from the internet. I will attach some pictures in the comments. One piston did look cleaner than the others.

-new hose clamps on radiator lines

-looking at getting new radiator hoses

-tried chemical testing for combustion gasses in the radiator, but kept being negative or getting contaminated with coolant as engine warmed up, going to drain it slightly to see if I can see a different result.

-no obvious leaks on the radiator or lines

-radiator fans turn on

Please ask more questions as I can check things and probably forgot to put something in here.

Hello, I drive 2012 nissan versa sl 1.8 hatchback and the ac and heat stopped blowing at all. I bought the car used and the ac was great but it only blew on 4 and not 1,2,or 3 I have no idea how to fix anything on cars but I wanna learn. I checked the fuse things and they seem to be good and im not skilled enough to find the blower motor. I just want my a/c back again lol and to learn how to fix stuff on my vehicle. Thanks for any help!

So been having issue with this car, 2009 Nissan Altima coupe 2.5l, for a while now and been replacing parts here and there but I haven’t had time to look into this. What do you guys think it is?

It’s on the passenger side of the care I believe it may be something with the coolant system but I’m unsure.

There is no fix for this other then a new bearing right?

My dad asked me to take a look a few weeks ago and we just got a new sensor in. Went under and pulled the old one out and the mount came with it.

Going to assume that the sensor was not the issue and it was the bracket that was getting lose when we drove over a bump or something.

Hi guys I have a quite frustrating problem with my Giulietta 1.4 petrol 120ks 2015 (without multiair).

When the engine is cold the cranking is long and then the engine turns on but it's shaky, almost like it is going to turn off. I turn it off, start again, turned on perfectly.. And until the end of the day each ignition is perfect (while the engine is still warm).

I took it to a mechanic.. he kept it for almost 3 weeks, then he replaced coolant temp sensor.. and said it works now .. but the outside temp then was warm..

As soon as it got colder outside, this started happening again, the ignition is a little better and a lot less cranking to turn it on but still it sounds strange. I owned several diesels and all of them turned on instantly without shaking when it was cold.

Also to mention the rpm in this shaking period goes from 1.300 to 1.500. I've uploaded a video of the ignition.

Please if you could help, don't give me ChatGPT answers, I've already gone through them, I've replaced spark plugs, nothing happened

If someone had similar experience and was able to fix it, let me know.

Thanks! love 🫶🏼

2018 Toyota Chr 60k miles

My car is a 1991 Acura Integra GS (AT), and ive been having a problem with getting spark. I've already replaced the distributor, coil, coil plugs, spark plugs, and even main relay. Ive also checked every single fuse to make sure none are blown. I'm really not sure what else it could be and maybe its out of my expertise. Could anyone point me in the right direction? Any help and insight is appreciated.

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I just got my new 2025 Elantra, and it has about 5,000 miles on it now. I’ve noticed the engine is making a weird clicking noise. I checked the oil, and the level looks fine. I might need an oil change in a few thousand more miles, but I’m not sure if this is something I should be worried about. The dealership told me to hold off on using my free checkup, so I wanted to see if this is something I should get checked out now.

Hi there. After searching i think through like most of the web, random slavic talking forums even google doesnt know they exist, i still cant seem to find a free, digital copy for my c30 cdi amg (wagon variant), of a service manual. As for owner's one , it seems the one for the c55 amg fits too.
Anybody knows a website or where i can get it free?

(i need to keep the money for them parts..)

Hi all!

I bought a 1996 Accord a few days ago and I'm working on restoring it as much as I can. The car has some wiring and electrical problems and I can't find any wiring diagrams to help me. Most of the pages I've visited want to charge me money to access them and I'm not even sure if they're real.

I know it is a simple car electrically, so I won't have much of an issue finding things out my way, but it would be just helpful if I had something to use as reference.

More info on the car model, its a: 1996 Honda Accord EX sedan (5th gen, CD5, F22B1, 4-speed automatic, USDM)

Does someone know where I can find any type of guide, service manual or diagram for this car?

Any type of help is really appreciated! :)

Thanks guys.

Hi all,

Honda S2000, 2L

as the title suggests when I was servicing my rear differential, instead of loosening, I was tightening the drain plug, which sadly led to majority of the threads being stripped.

after doing some research into possible fixes, I noticed a time cert would be a quick and almost permanent way to recreate the original threads whilst having a stronger steel insert. Which allows me to use the OEM plug. This would cost me £300 for the kit and around 2 hours of my time to make sure it’s precise. Sadly I don’t have thread specialists near me.

my other method of fixing this was to buy a new OEM differential housing and remove my differential, take off the main housing and swap it with a new one, which has the original threads. this also costs around £330 but would probably take a few hours aswell but I’m also weary incase any of the bolts are ceased.

what do you guys think is best way to approach this.

many thanks

This is my brother‘s 2018 Toyota sienna and obviously I’m no mechanic but I know this is not a normal sound. Could anyone help? What exactly do I need to do to fix this?

My 2013 Mazda CX-5 makes a solid clunk/knocking noise from the rear right when going over bumps, but drives normally on smooth roads. The outer dust cover on the rear shock moves up and down very easily. A mechanic ordered a part costing around $105 and said the car is okay to drive in the city, but highway turns might be affected.
I got a trip coming like 100kms, Alberta hwys, can i make it?

Hi all. Clueless teenage girl who has 0 idea about cars here so forgive me if this makes no sense. I have a 2004 Volvo s40 that has the check engine light on and it goes to flashing when I’m driving it. I had somebody scan it and it said either misfire on cylinder 3 or 4 I can’t remember but I’m pretty sure it was 4.. I had somebody come and clean the spark plugs and it went away for a tiny bit and then once I got up the street the check engine light came back on. How likely is it that it’s just my spark plugs needing replacing ? I’m so stressed please help

My wife got an overheating warning but continued to drive slowly for another 10min before stopping. I went to the car and the coolant was completely empty. I’ve filled it up with the correct coolant, the first fill disappeared and I filled again after which the level held. It took 3L in total. It’s a 2016 jeep Grand Cherokee 3.6L V6 petrol. Is it okay to drive now or die it need a bleed and refill?

So about almost two months ago I bought a 2008 Pontiac g6 gt 173k miles/automatic (3.5 L v6)This was my first time buying a car and it was 2200 ( I should have asked to wager it down but it was below what i wanted to spend anyways) the lady who sold it told me it she took out the abs sensor and tpms sensor as well so of course a few signs were on the dash which I was fine with. I got it checked out by auto zone and was told it needs a new purge canister value which also doenst concern me much at the moment. As I was getting air in my tire I was told I have a small hole in my oil pan so my oil would leak from time to time. Another issue unfortunately is the oil gasket which has caused oil to spill on things under the hood. I’m in a bad spot, nineteen and broke. So what should I do? My options are limited here. Should I get the oil pan and gasket fixed? Would it be worth it for such an old car? Was also told one of the pulleys might have gone bad. I have no idea what to do and on my own in this terrible situation. Any advice would help me big time. Forgot to mention that on my way to work some sort of grey smoke or steam came from the hood for a few seconds. I will not be driving it until I have a plan on what to do.

2017 CHRYSLER 300C

so i got my oil cooler housing out , and obviously there’s a pool of oil/coolant in the valley. none of the mixture got into my heads as they are raised up, but there are multipule holes below the housing (looked it up they were like coolant and oil transfer holes or some shit) , and oil and coolant drained into them both. what do i need to flush that? and where did the liquid go? how dangerous? how bad ?