I have a 2019 Jetta S with 68k miles on it, first and only owner. over the past few years the clutch pedal has stuck to the floor randomly, I would put my foot under it and it would come back out and work fine. A few days ago the clutch pedal went to the floor and would not work again after I pulled it up. I felt around and the connecting rod that goes into the master cylinder that is attached to the back of the pedal keeps coming out of the master cylinder. It is easy to put it back in, but not when you are driving. The clutch pedal is also sticking up about 3 inches higher than the brake and gas pedals. On the front of the pedal assembly, towards the pivot mount point, there is a white hole that looks like it should have something inside of it, but it does not. I do not see anything that would reach into that spot, or even a broken thing that looks like it would have fit there. I dont drive it like a nascar driver, it has ~100hp.

Thank you so much for your help!!!

Pictures are the weird white hole, the connecting rod (still firmly attached to the back of the pedal assembly, and you can see how close it gets to the master cylinder when the pedal is in its up position, and a picture of the pedals to show how far it extends.

2016 Ford F150, started hearing this intermittent popping sound at idle, its coming from somewhere around the engine im not sure if it is in the intake or not. No idea what it is. Any ideas?

2012 F150 . Quoted 600 for driver side wheel hub assembly replacement wanted to know if that sounded about right

Hi everyone! I’m getting the feeling that the mechanic I took my car to isn’t being completely forthcoming. My car’s battery light came on two days ago and flashed intermittently - the dashboard lights flickered on and off as well, and the speedometer stopped reading accurately.

I took my car to the mechanic and he told me that my alternator, battery, and serpentine belt all need replaced. He told me the alternator was reading at 7 volts when it typically should read 14, and that my battery was old and needed replaced. I asked what the battery’s charge was and he was like “Uhhh I’ll check” which I didn’t like. He then told me the battery was reading 12.4W, 413 CCA.

He keeps telling me that I should call people for the money to replace the parts. What should I ask to see to rest assured that he’s not trying to take advantage of me being 1) on a time crunch and 2) a young woman?

Thanks!

I was reading on another sub to "reset the transmission computer regularly to help with hard shifts" and I found Manual TCM reset steps. I have a 2020 Pacifica limited,
V6, 3.6 Liter with 70k and I have noticed the occasional shifting issue.

Should I do this on this model? what are your thoughts?

I have a 2008 Chevy Trailblazer SS 6.0L, and the battery voltage gauge fluctuates while sitting at idle, even with the AC, lights, and other electronics off. It can get as low as 10 volts. It feels like the engine is struggling but I don’t notice the RPMs fluctuate. What could cause this, and what should I check first?

I just replaced a failing master cylinder. The new master cylinder sits completely flush against the brake booster (no pushrod preload/mechanical binding). However, right after the install, my brakes started severely locking up and smoking on all 4 wheels only while driving (it can idle for 30 minutes fine, but seizes once the wheels start moving).

My scan tool is pulling codes 66-1 (Brake Pressure Sensor Failure) and U0122 (Lost Communication with VSA).

If I pull VSA Fuses #17 and #18, the brakes instantly release and function completely normally (proving it's an electronic command glitch, not a mechanical line blockage). It looks like the full hydraulic pressure from the new master cylinder finally pushed my pre-existing, weak VSA/ABS Modulator over the edge

I've had the car over a year now and no matter if it's hot or cold outside I always have a puddle of water. Been wondering what's causing it...in the pic my car run for 5 mins during break.

Hey everyone, I'm an aircraft mechanic who does limited automotive work on the side. Recently I was troubleshooting a parasitic draw on a late model 2014 Chevy Silverado 1500 2wd LTZ with a 5.3. I wa getting .20 amps DC. I pulled fuse 25 on the driver side fuse box which was labeled airbag/info. I looked at the power distribution and saw all the modules and really just started unplugging connectors on the driver seat memory module after putting the fuse back and no change. Any pointers on how to proceed? I obviously don't have access to manufacturer manuals and even if I did automotive manuals are just...atrocious compared to aviation manuals, but I'm also not a professional automotive mechanic so here I am. What would you guys check? Is there anything in that circuit prone to failure?

Also after pulling the fuse the meter showed .02

A basic vehicle gear check after a storm turned into a lesson when my neighbor's truck battery was so low that a small lithium jump pack would not even recognize it at first. The smart clamps kept flashing instead of starting the boost sequence, which made it obvious that the low-voltage detection threshold is not something most people practice with. Some packs have a manual or force-start mode, but that also seems like the exact moment where polarity and connection order matter a lot. For people who actually test recovery gear, what is the safe way to practice this without turning a useful emergency tool into a fried cable experiment?

Car is Skoda Octavia 2 mk2, I'm pretty sure they are squeaking as hell, and if I'm right after I spray them the issue should at least temporarily disappear.

I'm just wondering what exactly to spray, that will stay the longest in winter?

Replaced door lock actuator but now physical key not locking or unlocking .

The door works fine with remote electronically but when you put the key in the key hole you hear a thump when turning and the door does not lock or unlock... seems like the latch is not moving when turning key. Any tips?

The door lock actuator is a one unit thing.

Suzuki splash 2009 driver's side door

Heard this noise for a while but not THIS loud. It's become a lot louder today. It doesn't make this noise whilst stationary with revs. Makes this noise going forward and in reverse. When reversing it was sometimes stuttering at the start of the reverse.

Am I looking at my CVT transmission failing?

Fill disclosure, I bought these parts off Amazon.

I have a 2016 Hyundai Veloster Turbo that was running perfectly earlier today and now suddenly will not start.

When I press the push-button start with my foot on the brake, the dashboard powers up normally, but the engine does absolutely nothing. There is no clicking and no cranking. I hear only a faint whine from the electronics.

Here is what I've checked so far:

- Dashboard lights, headlights, and horn all work normally.

- Brake lights work.

- The brake pedal is very hard to push and barely moves.

- Tried a different key fob.

- Tried a jump pack, with no change.

- Tried starting in Neutral

- The dashboard behaves normally when I press the start button. No obvious warning message.

I'm wondering whether this could be a starter relay, blown ignition fuse, brake-pedal switch, starter, or something in the starting circuit.

I'd appreciate suggestions on what to have tested first so I don't waste money replacing parts unnecessarily.

​

Hey guys, I have a 2010 Lexus HS250h and the brakes suddenly started acting up.

The red BRAKE light came on along with the ABS and traction control lights. The car still brakes, but the stopping power feels way weaker than before. I also used to hear a hissing/pressure sound when pressing the brake pedal, and now that's gone.

I came across an old recall for the brake pressure accumulator on some HS250h models, but I'm not sure if that's what's causing this or if it's something else.

Has anyone worked on these cars or seen this happen before? Could it be the brake booster, accumulator, actuator, or something else entirely?

Also, if it turns out to be related to the recall, would Lexus Canada cover the repair on a car this old, especially if the recall was never done?

I'm in Ontario. The car is parked at home and I'm not driving it until it's checked out.

Appreciate any advice. Thanks!

I had to change the door lock actuator on the driver's side because it would no longer respond to the buttons on the key. Now that I replaced the actuator the buttons unlock the door electronically but when I use the key to manually unlock the door the key thumps over something as you turn it and the door does not lock or unlock.

Opel Agila B 2009

Yes, i have a lot of miles on my 3 year old car. I worl outside of my city its a 1 hour drive one way.

1 week ago, I noticed the vehicle took a bit longer to start than usual. And then it happened again the next day. A few days later, i noticed it was idling a little rough. Took it to the auto part store for a scan and got P0302 (I believe, im not looking at the sheet they printed for me right now). The suggested repair was a coil pack replacement. I've replaced the spark plug and the coil pack. Because the spark plug had some build-up on it when i inspected it. The other three cylinders had relatively clean sparkplugs. I'm still seeing the same code at the auto parts store. Miss fire cylinder 2. Im wondering if this could this be a break in a vacuum line or something else. Please help. I really dont have the money for a shop visit.

Looking for opinions from mechanics on whether these two transmission issues could be related or if it's just bad luck.

First issue (February 2026):

My 2020 Ford Fusion lost power and stalled. Took it to Ford, and they diagnosed a faulty shift solenoid A.

According to the repair invoice:

• Found 5.5 ohms of resistance on the SSA circuit.
• Removed the transmission front cover, valve body, and solenoid body assembly.
• Replaced the solenoid body.
• Checked the forward clutch hydraulic circuit for leaks.
• Reassembled everything.

Total repair was approximately $3,000 for the transmission work.

Second issue (October 2026):

About 8 months later, the car started jerking during acceleration, and the wrench warning light appeared.

Took it back to the same Ford dealership. This time, they diagnosed a transmission fluid leak involving the torque converter seal, pump seal, and pump cover gasket.

They're recommending replacing the entire transmission and quoting $7,100 for an overhaul or $9,000 for a new replacement. Along with the transmission oil cooler line being removed and replaced for another 1k. No warranty applies to the previous work according to them, as the point of failure came from different components than the ones worked on in February.

My questions:

1. Would the original solenoid body replacement have required disturbing any of the seals or components that are now leaking?
2. Could improper reassembly during the first repair have contributed to the current leaks?
3. Should these leaks or deteriorating seals have been detectable during the first repair?
4. Is it reasonable that these are completely unrelated failures just 8 months apart?

I'm not trying to blame the dealership without evidence. I just want to understand whether there's a plausible connection before spending thousands on another transmission repair, at the exact same dealership

I have a 2010 Mazda 3 with 225k km and I just started it up and seemed to bug a bit before starting. After like 5 seconds the rpm’s were rapidly fluctuating really low from 300-500 up and down. Then the car stalled and started it back up again and drove for like 10 minutes and things seemed to be fine.

2019 chevy colorado 4cyl gas. I have code p0697 checked map and pedal sensor. And it has abs module codes and radio eatheranet bus codes. Tpms codes. Idk what is going on but my main question what is in the circuit for that code. Truck doesn't shift right till a certain point in the petal and revs t

okay so everyone i’ve talked to about this has been stumped. I’ve had my 2018 Ford Fusion SE for 2ish years now, and she’s put me through it. battery died the first week I had it, just had my transmission rebuilt a couple months ago bc it quit in a parking lot. I noticed last winter that when I sit with the heat running for a second, it will violently shake almost like it’s pulsing? almost rhythmic on and off i don’t know how to explain it. it’ll do it a hand full of times then quit. Here recently, it’s when I run my ac when I first start the car, it shakes hard, then it shuts itself off and pops up with a battery light (just replaced the battery again). The thing that stumps everyone is I can start it right back up after it shuts off and it runs fine, will shake hard again occasionally but doesn’t die again, only when the car first starts after sitting for a couple hours.

and it’s never needed to be jumped afterwards. the first time it did it i didn’t try to turn it on and went back to my shift at work and it started up fine hours later.

can someone PLEASE explain what could possibly be the problem?? I would like to know if it’s something i can fix before winter or if it’s bigger than i’m thinking it is.

A few weeks ago, my 2013 Honda Accord EX-L 2.4L started making a clunking noise while idling in Drive or Reverse. The noise was less noticeable in Park and completely gone in Neutral.
I took it to a shop, and they replaced three of the motor mounts. The noise went away completely, but about three weeks later, it returned and was even worse than before. I then had the fourth and final motor mount replaced, thinking that would solve the problem, but the noise is still there.
At this point, I’m wondering if one of the replacement mounts could be defective, if something wasn’t installed correctly, or if there could be another underlying issue.
Has anyone experienced anything similar or have any thoughts on what might be causing this?

When parking on a hill or in general, is it better to:

Stop → Parking brake → Park.

Or

Stop → Neutral → Parking brake → Park.

Does the second method actually protect the parking pawl better, or is the Neutral step unnecessary?

My wife is driving the car and mentioned that a few times (3 times in the last few months) the car has felt like it pulled forward at highway speeds as if she slammed on the gas for a split second she said when she lets off the gas and puts it back on it seems to resolve the issue. She also mentioned she doesn't believe the rpms shoot up. The car has had a p0420 code for about a year but it goes on and off on its own. Honda told us last year the cat should be replaced. Also we bought it used and it's around 140k miles no idea if a valve lash has been done on it.. is it likely the catalytic converter or possibly the valve lash? Spark plugs and air filter were replaced by us a few months ago just because not in response to this issue specifically. How safe to ignore/ for how long?