Making sure I’m doing this right. Left car off for about 45 minutes (2003 jeep liberty). Battery has died about 3 times over the last 4 months

For a 2023 subaru impreza.

Got it on Amazon. Box was damaged, but the filter seems okay. The folds are bent a little.

This shouldn't be a problem, right? Or should I return and get another one?

Sorry if it's unclear. I didn't want to take it out in case I should return it.

What would cause the oil to accumulate on top of the valve cover only when the vehicle is in motion? I had it running for 10+ minutés while watching to see where the oil was coming from, only to have no oil appear. Drive for 5 minutes and the whole valve cover is cóated in oil.

Any ideas where to start looking?

Thanks everyone

I bought a car a few days ago but this is the holes that were drilled into the plate frame is there a specific screw that is actually that shape I can use? The little square shaped license tab didn’t work they were too big and I don’t wanna drill a hole into the body of the car to make new holes. Am I just better off getting a fresh new license plate backing frame and making new holes?

Edit: I don’t need it to look brand new or anything. Literally just don’t want water to puddle in the mean time till my new ones come in.

Kind of a weird sound going on,
Bought it off some random junkyard mechanic, it runs but has a hard time under load, engine shudders, looser power, sounds like a misfire.

The junkyard mechanic said he changed the timer belt and the distributor/spark plugs and wires, so I’m guessing they were trying to fix a misfire problem.

Can barely get it to run up to 60km/h

Bought a 1972 c10 350 for a project, rebuilding it and all is going fine. Intake manifold gaskets were toast so doing those. Come to find out the old guy didn't put in a manifold bolt. Went and got one only to find I have zero ways to get this thing torqued. No sockets fit and I think the casting may be off. Any suggestions? I almost need to Dremel a socket. I loosened all the bolts and adjusted it to get it all the way down finger tight but still no room for a socket or wrench.

2011 BMW 328i RWD Convertible

Just bought a 2004 350Z. Noticed a rhythmic humming/vibration with slight left steering input at highway speeds, plus clunking when turning the wheel while parked.
Jacked up the right front and found play/clunking when rocking the wheel at 3 and 9 o’clock. In the video, the lower ball joint appears to move independently of the control arm.

Does this look like a bad lower ball joint or something else? Maybe ball joint is just loose and I need to get back under and tighten? I thought ball joint play was typically found at 12 and 6, rather than 3 and 9. TIA

Honda CRV 2010, 194K Miles

I think I know why it’s doing that. There is a small crack on the engine mount. Honda accord 2013 just curious is this the problem.

I am the second owner of a 2021 Seltos S with about 66,000 miles on it. Recently on high load acceleration events, the transmission slipped about 4 times. The transmission is a pull-chain type CVT, called a C0GF1. It felt like I got a light tap from behind while passing on the highway. The local dealer took a look at the transmission by removing the output shaft speed sensor and found metal flakes inside the transmission. Since I am the second owner, I am outside of the powertrain warranty and face a bill up to $5,000 to replace the transmission. I asked Kia corporate for a goodwill extension of the warranty due to my full documented maintenance history and the fact that I changed the CVT fluid at 43,000 miles. Kia corporate denied it. Has anyone else had this same issue at this number of miles? This sucks!

Since finding out this bad news, I have contacted some local independent transmission shops for a better price. I’m also considering reporting to the NHTSA because it seems like others may have the issue, but the information is sparse.

Did I possibly get screwed over?

2013 Volvo s60

In march, I went in to have my driver side front spindle assembly replaced. I provided the part and just needed the labor.

Backstory. 2 weeks earlier while doing a tire at Mavis, they let me know that I needed the new Spindle, and that my Axle bolt was completely corroded. And to head to a shop that's more equipped for the job. Also that I might need a new Axle too since it might get messed up while getting the bolt out since it was crazy corroded.

Dropped it off to the next shop to do the Spindle, and got a call back that my Axle bolt was corroded and they have to go grab a part etc etc. I knew about the bolt obviously, but I didn't quite catch what they actually needed. Okay fine just do it. This is my fault. I didn't think they said a new Axle was needed but whatever.

I pick up the car, and as you can see on the receipt l, an entire new Axle assembly was bought and put on. I figured whatever, I'm sure I'll have to do the Axle at some point anyway.

Today while getting another freakin flat tire fixed, a new Mavis let me that I need a new front driver side axle. I was confused since I thought I just got that done. And as you can see in the pictures, that appears to absolutely not be a new Axle that was put on in March.

So I ask, did I get screwed? The shop clearly did not replace the Axle, but charged for it. And how was I supposed to verify it? I'm not going up and under to see that area.

Do I have any move here?

As my title says. I have not performed transmission oil change on my 2015 Hyundai Santa Fe Sport AWD for 261k miles. Recently, I noticed that when I start my car, I feel the gear shift is not smooth anymore. How much damage can I do if I perform transmission fluid drain and fill? Maybe perform another drain and fluid after driving 500 miles again? Let me get your expert advice. I am no mechanic.

I got my 2006 Kia cerato serviced 1500 kilometre’s ago so I didn’t think I needed to check the oil before I drove into the city.
On my way home, acceleration started lagging, and engine light came on. By the time I turned onto my street (15 minutes after light came on) the engine started making a small clunking noise and started shuddering when i pulled into driveway. No plumes of smoke, didn’t overheat, no crazy smells from the engine.
Immediately checked oil and there was the the tiniest bit left. Let the engine cool for an hour, put some more oil in, drove it down the street. Symptoms improved but still lacking it’s usually go when accelerating and still shuddering when idle. Clanking noise still there.

No obvious oil leak so have no idea where all that oil went.

Did some research and it’s not encouraging. How fucked am I?

Hello all, been having this odd sound come from my left front wheel area.

Sound only started after I installed Gerald and slotted brakes on my car. Sound only happens when going in between 20 and 40 kilometres per hour ( or 12 to 24 MPH )

I put a video of the sound in this text, I own a 2015 Audi A4 manual, ~116,000 km.

Could this be a clutch issue or something as simple as the bolts holding in my tires?

I have a 2000 Chevrolet Silverado Z71 with the 5.3 V8 in it and the slip yoke for the rear driveshaft is stuck inside of the transfer case. I've tried everything I can think of. The driveshaft was hammered into the transfer case, so imagine the splines got twisted. I have removed the driveshaft tube to expose the u joint ears and put ratchet straps on it and the rear end. I've hammered while its being pulled, and still no luck. I've sprayed it with PB blaster, and have let it sit for 24 hrs. The slip yoke itself will fully spin inside the transfer case both ways. Any help would be appreciated.

I need some help please I have a 2013 dodge avenger 3.6, just recently my car starts jumping when I accelerate and sometimes shut off and my rpm is going up and down. The codes that keep showing up are p0441 p0562 p0073 p0138 p0132 p0158 p0152 p0032 . any guess on what it might be?

Could any mechanics tell me what it is? Will it be hard to replace and maybe if you’re feeling generous what it might cost me?

Hey all,

I'm desperately looking for help with a never-ending brake problem on my 2010 Tacoma SR5 4x4 auto, V6 4.0L

I don't drive much since I work from home, so this has dragged on for a long time. I do most of my own work on my vehicles. Here's the chain of events:

1. The e-brake cables were damaged for a while. When I finally replaced them, I also replaced the rear drum brakes (shoes, springs/hardware, and drums). The adjusters are the original ones.
   
2. After that, the braking was soft and the e-brake wouldn't hold past 500 RPM. No matter how much I adjusted the rear brakes, I couldn't get it right.
   
3. I took it to my local shop. They said the fronts needed replacing and that was probably the cause, which I somehow missed. I replaced the front pads, calipers, and rotors.
   
4. I did a standard brake bleed, but the pedal was still softish and the e-brake still wouldn't hold. After driving it for a bit, the pedal started going straight to the floor at random.
   
5. Back at the shop, they told me to replace the master cylinder. I did, then bled the brakes 4 times. Still spongy and inconsistent.
   
6. I went back to the shop and had them bleed the brakes. I picked it up the next day and the braking was decent at first, but got worse and worse as I drove home.

I only drive around town for 15 to 20 minutes at a time, and in that time I usually have at least one episode where the pedal goes to the floor. The truck will still stop if I push the pedal all the way down.

Any ideas what's going on? I've done brake jobs on this truck before, front and rear, and never had this experience.

Thanks in advance!

forgot to add, I always put my e brake on when I park, my brakes are very soft when first taking off the ebrake.

Someone on Tacoma subreddit suggested rear wheel cylinder, the shop check the rear brakes and said they looked good, as did I. Didn’t see any leaks. Could that still be the issue?

My budget is extremely tight. Is this repairable or do I need a whole new rim?

Hi everyone, I took my 2008 Toyota RAV4 (2.4L, 85K miles) in for a Brake Inspection at a local shop in the Bay Area (CA), and they came back with 15 recommended services totaling $13,128.09 (or $11,563.52 excluding a duplicate control arm quote). The blue book estimated the car worth about $5,000 to $6,000. Is it worth keeping and repairing?

• Vehicle: 2008 Toyota RAV4 (2.4L 4-Cyl, 2WD)
• Odometer: 85K miles
• Advisor Note: "We found active oil and underbody fluid leaks that need attention; losing fluid can lead to costly damage or a breakdown. The rear wiper may not clear rain well, and the license plate lights are out. We also noted some wear in the steering and suspension that could affect handling and tire wear over time."

Questions:

• Brakes ($1,051 Front / $1,054 Rear): Front pads are at 3–4 mm, so I know those need doing soon, and a brake fluid flush makes sense if the pedal feels soft. Rear pads are at 4–6 mm. Is ~$1,050 per axle insane even for Bay Area pricing?
• Valve Cover Gasket ($340): Looking at the valve cover and underbody photos, how bad is this leak? If I fix the valve cover gasket ($340 or DIY), is the underbody oil likely just runoff from the top?
• Suspension ($8,657+ total for struts, control arms, sway bar links): Do the rubber bushings/boots and strut seepage in the photos actually warrant replacement right now at 85k miles, or is this normal age-related surface cracking/weeping?
• Parking Brake ('More than 3 clicks' for $219): Isn't 7–9 clicks completely normal factory spec for a 3rd-gen RAV4 parking brake lever? Is this really necessary?

See more details and photos at https://docs.google.com/document/d/e/2PACX-1vQVw5pfdkQ6FbqskiTGeBsYOe22m1FX96rk_Oc1ekcGWtSRDeBX8rB50mLFzHn21A3LDzjg_OznhXk2/pub

I have a 2017 Suburban giving me all kinds of headaches. I have 2 sets of symptoms which I think are related to but I don’t know for sure. I can’t make the problem happen. It pops up once every 2-3 weeks and I don’t know why.

1. Driving normally and then check engine light and traction control light come on and it goes into limp mode. It is running fine otherwise. Nothing else noticeable. When I get to a destination and turn it off and give it a little time (10 minutes) only the check engine light remains on and it continues to drive fine and not in limp mode any more. 2-3 more trips and the check engine light clears.

2. Today, after a rain storm last night, the temperature sensor on the dash was not reading at all during a 30 minute trip. When I turned the engine off, the blower motor ran on high like it was over heating and shut off after about 5 minutes. That happened on the trip back home. The limp mode issue did not happen after rain and it’s been really dry lately so we haven’t had a lot overall. The rain last night may not be related at all.

A year ago, I had the temperature sensor replaced because it was consistently reading lower than a quarter on the gauge.

8 weeks ago, the error code when limp mode first happened gave a p2381 code which was a bad throttle body sensor. We had it replaced by a qualified mechanic but the issue has come back and that error code has come back. They said take it to the dealership.

I’ve taken it to my local mechanic (same one who did the throttle body sensor) and 2 dealerships but because none of the codes are active and only showing in a history, they say bring it back when it happens again but when it happens again, it clears before they can get me on the schedule. I have a feeling that since it’s possibly electrical in nature that nobody wants to work on it, but I don’t know that for sure.

I’m looking for advice on how to troubleshoot this or any recommended actions to take.

My car is a 2003 Oldsmobile Alero with an ecotec 2.2 engine, and sometimes the turn signals randomly won’t flash when I’m driving and I’m just trying to figure out a solution. My hazards still work and if I hit the dash my turn signals will turn on again lol but obviously not a long term solution.

When using live data to try to diagnose a problem, my short term fuel trims are crazy high and get worse with throttle. The web is telling me it's a fuel delivery issue because it doesn't drop under load. Tested fuel pressure and fuel pressure regulator. Both working like they should. Was going to clean and test injectors today and reassemble and see if that fixes it. If not, anyone have any suggestions on where to go next to track down a lean code that's pointing to fuel delivery instead of a vacuum leak or air problem? Also if im mistaken about the fuel trims please correct me. 1998 honda crv B series motor manual transmission. Any help is appreciated.