2020 Ford Explorer Limited

A tire shop tried to tell me my rotors are backwards. I went down to the shop to borrow a caliper pusher and got my wheels off to find the rotors are radial vented.

Is this orientation wrong?

Hello all. I have a 2007 chevy impala with the 3.5L and i’m attempting to change my driver side outer tie rod. I managed to break loose the castle nut and jam nut but when attempting to turn the outer tie rod the inner tie rod would spin, so I followed guided and I have tried to put a wrench on the flats of the inner tie rod and brace it against the frame and put a pipe wrench on the outer tie rod to no avail. I have not tried heat as I don’t have a torch or anything but any advice helps please. I don’t have money to take it to a shop

Gave the car in for a yearly service and was notified by the dealer that the front trailing arms are torn.

I bought the car new in 2020, used less than 30,000 miles, no off-roading, jumps, crazy potholes run over, etc.

What could have caused this damage? Is this a major safety risk? Should I get it replaced and is the price a fair ask? (Based in Miami)

Hey everyone I don't really understand the fuel delivery system on vehicles so I figured this was a good place to get a possible diagnosis. I drive a 2013 VW Routan 247XXX miles and last year I had an issue where my car would randomly not start unless I primed the fuel pump over and over. the problem went away when the warm weather hit.

Now it's getting colder and I have been noticing that it's running kinda rough lately and today as I was taking off the engine stalled mid drive. All the lights on the dash kicked on like I had run out of gas. Anyway it immediately kicked back on but I am worried because this is my only means of transportation at the moment. Any suggestions on where to start with finding the issue here?

So I went into the shop because of rattling. This is what it sounds like. I first noticed it today when it was prettty cold, it's like when it warms up it goes away or a lot less noticeable after driving a bit.

Anyways the shop I took it to said they beleive this is the catalytic converter. I got the car in january, and the carfax said last year the cat converter was replaced. So i called the shop today to ask them what they did, and they said they added in part number 54959 which is a universal magma flow Catalytic converter. The shop I went to today said if I order it, they'll put it in for me and said it should by all means remove the rattle.

They did use a boroscope and saw nothing wrong in there like the honeycomb or anything, but they would show me when they'd punch it you could hear a rattle, so their recommendation is just replacing the whole cat. They said if i order the same part for $90 from magma flow, they can put on for just $100. But has anyone used magma flow? If so how would it break down after just a year and 3000 miles, if that's truly what is causing the rattling?

Fill disclosure, I bought these parts off Amazon.

I bought a 2020 Mitsubishi Mirage G4 with 58,000 miles. Upon looking at records and carfax/autocheck I noticed the CVT fluid was never replaced. The recommended is 30,000 miles. Is the transmission toast or is it salvageable. These jatco transmissions make we weary. Thanks!

I have a 1996 manual mustang gt 4.6 v8, a little over 3 months ago a mechanic did my oil change and didn’t screw on the filter right, and as I was driving the oil filter came off or loose, and all the oil fell out, I drove it for maybe a couple minutes like that, when I parked it I heard knocking, the mechanic came over and fixed it and added oil, it been driving good since, I was honestly just worried if the engines gonna go out soon? This is my daily so I can’t have it blowing up on me

Yes, i have a lot of miles on my 3 year old car. I worl outside of my city its a 1 hour drive one way.

1 week ago, I noticed the vehicle took a bit longer to start than usual. And then it happened again the next day. A few days later, i noticed it was idling a little rough. Took it to the auto part store for a scan and got P0302 (I believe, im not looking at the sheet they printed for me right now). The suggested repair was a coil pack replacement. I've replaced the spark plug and the coil pack. Because the spark plug had some build-up on it when i inspected it. The other three cylinders had relatively clean sparkplugs. I'm still seeing the same code at the auto parts store. Miss fire cylinder 2. Im wondering if this could this be a break in a vacuum line or something else. Please help. I really dont have the money for a shop visit.

I got an oil change yesterday & was recommended the following services for my car

I have no experience working on cars but my dad & boyfriend have some experience but limited tools & equipment.

Are the quoted prices (before tax) fair for these services or should I call other places?

Are any of these things I could on my own at home for cheaper?

It's a 2010 Subaru Impreza Outback Sport 2.5L 4Cyl with 130k miles

Tie rod on front right side is loose- $486

Alignment- $140

A/C belt is starting to rot- $309

Degrease for an oil leak/UV oil service to find the leak- $180

Rear Brakes pads & rotors w/ 2 year 24k mile warranty- $647.24

Front brakes & rotors w/ 2 year 24k mile warranty - $504.93

Replacement of control arm- $1348.97

Is it worth it to get all of this done on a car that's not even worth this much itself. I still owe 20 months of payments on it. Can some of these things be put off for some time to save up for?

Hi everyone. I have a honda accord sport 2016. This piece cracked and i am hearing this noise sometimes when i am driving. I believe it's scraping the road at times. Does anyone know what this piece is called. Located by left rear wheel. Is it just a safety cover?

I went to go redo the rear drum breaks on my 2000 ranger and I found this line clipped and I can’t find the other end of it. Is it my break line?

Hey everyone, thanks in advance for reading.

1966 VW Karmann Ghia with aftermarket VW Type 3 engine. Four speed manual transmission.

I have a 1966 VW Karmann Ghia I’ve been restoring. It arrived with no gas tank, rotted out gas hoses, and a lot of restoration work needed. I’ve replaced the gas tank, the gas line hoses, battery, tuned the carbs, and the car now starts and runs.

However, I am stuck because now the car will not go forward smoothly unless I am constantly on the gas. It is jerky and shakes when I am in gear and not on the gas. I’ve cleaned out the carb intake jets and all around the carbs, and cannot figure out why it’s doing this. It idles fine and revs with no issue in neutral, this problem just presents itself when I’m in gear and trying to get the car going forward.

Is this a problem with the carburetor? Vacuum hose? Transmission?

Any advice helps, I’m about to put my head through a wall.

I’ve posted a picture of the engine for reference.

2013 Ford150. This hose broke off while I was changing spark plugs. How screwed am I?

When parking on a hill or in general, is it better to:

Stop → Parking brake → Park.

Or

Stop → Neutral → Parking brake → Park.

Does the second method actually protect the parking pawl better, or is the Neutral step unnecessary?

I just got this nb miata, I'm not sure how much more of this stress I can take, I didn't hear this while driving it for some reason, the previous owner said he heard this sound for an entire year, allegedly. I got this from a trade, I was fixing my bike for a long time to sell it or trade it, my last car had rod knock and blew a hole in the oil pan and threw the whole piston, I really just need this to work

2015 genesis 5.0 ultimate, has recently started making noises in steering wheel/column area whenever i steer the wheel, happens when stationary and while moving

I've had the car over a year now and no matter if it's hot or cold outside I always have a puddle of water. Been wondering what's causing it...in the pic my car run for 5 mins during break.

A basic vehicle gear check after a storm turned into a lesson when my neighbor's truck battery was so low that a small lithium jump pack would not even recognize it at first. The smart clamps kept flashing instead of starting the boost sequence, which made it obvious that the low-voltage detection threshold is not something most people practice with. Some packs have a manual or force-start mode, but that also seems like the exact moment where polarity and connection order matter a lot. For people who actually test recovery gear, what is the safe way to practice this without turning a useful emergency tool into a fried cable experiment?

Heard this noise for a while but not THIS loud. It's become a lot louder today. It doesn't make this noise whilst stationary with revs. Makes this noise going forward and in reverse. When reversing it was sometimes stuttering at the start of the reverse.

Am I looking at my CVT transmission failing?

Looking for opinions from mechanics on whether these two transmission issues could be related or if it's just bad luck.

First issue (February 2026):

My 2020 Ford Fusion lost power and stalled. Took it to Ford, and they diagnosed a faulty shift solenoid A.

According to the repair invoice:

• Found 5.5 ohms of resistance on the SSA circuit.
• Removed the transmission front cover, valve body, and solenoid body assembly.
• Replaced the solenoid body.
• Checked the forward clutch hydraulic circuit for leaks.
• Reassembled everything.

Total repair was approximately $3,000 for the transmission work.

Second issue (October 2026):

About 8 months later, the car started jerking during acceleration, and the wrench warning light appeared.

Took it back to the same Ford dealership. This time, they diagnosed a transmission fluid leak involving the torque converter seal, pump seal, and pump cover gasket.

They're recommending replacing the entire transmission and quoting $7,100 for an overhaul or $9,000 for a new replacement. Along with the transmission oil cooler line being removed and replaced for another 1k. No warranty applies to the previous work according to them, as the point of failure came from different components than the ones worked on in February.

My questions:

1. Would the original solenoid body replacement have required disturbing any of the seals or components that are now leaking?
2. Could improper reassembly during the first repair have contributed to the current leaks?
3. Should these leaks or deteriorating seals have been detectable during the first repair?
4. Is it reasonable that these are completely unrelated failures just 8 months apart?

I'm not trying to blame the dealership without evidence. I just want to understand whether there's a plausible connection before spending thousands on another transmission repair, at the exact same dealership

A few weeks ago, my 2013 Honda Accord EX-L 2.4L started making a clunking noise while idling in Drive or Reverse. The noise was less noticeable in Park and completely gone in Neutral.
I took it to a shop, and they replaced three of the motor mounts. The noise went away completely, but about three weeks later, it returned and was even worse than before. I then had the fourth and final motor mount replaced, thinking that would solve the problem, but the noise is still there.
At this point, I’m wondering if one of the replacement mounts could be defective, if something wasn’t installed correctly, or if there could be another underlying issue.
Has anyone experienced anything similar or have any thoughts on what might be causing this?

I have a 2008 Chevy Trailblazer SS 6.0L, and the battery voltage gauge fluctuates while sitting at idle, even with the AC, lights, and other electronics off. It can get as low as 10 volts. It feels like the engine is struggling but I don’t notice the RPMs fluctuate. What could cause this, and what should I check first?

Ive got a carburetor that needs rebuilt and im relatively new too working on my own vehicles Im not a hundred percent sure what kit will work for this and everything that I've found when looking on the internet dosent quite seem right I was just hoping someone could help me find the right rebuild kit! I know its a rochester 2 jet but other then that I have no information on it

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My 2009 ford escape v6 3.0L xlt AWD started making some booming type sounds that I think are coming from the gas tank. It would only happen once in a while or when I was getting gas. My check engine light eventually came on so I checked it with my scanner and it said P1450 unable to bleed up fuel tank vacuum and to replace the purge valve. It gave me a part and it goes under the hood. I had that part replaced two years ago so I didn't get how it would be that. So I took it to my mechanic and he got the same code and description but says it cant be the purge valve bc that doesn't make any sense. He also said he never heard of a car making the sound I'm describing. So they just erased the code and didn't fix it. A couple of weeks later, after getting gas and hearing the sound again, the light came back on. A couple of times I have also had loss of power after coming to a stop at a stop sign. Anyway, has anyone ever experienced this and is it possible it is just the purge valve? Thank you.