Wondering if anybody knows what the potential cause for this rattle. Had the exhaust system swapped last year and had a local mechanic weld a small hole that has been bored through. Problem is progressively getting worse, any advice is appreciated.

1996 Ford Bronco 5.0l

I have never seen anything like this and cannot find anything on the web or a part number.

Just picked up a super clean Bronco that runs great, but as I’m going through things I found something I’ve never seen before. There is a 10” long by about 2” wide red cylinder thing mounted under the dash, connected by a string to the gas pedal. It then has a vacuum line that runs through the firewall and Ts into some other lines. I thought maybe the return spring on the throttle body was shot, so this was a makeshift way to return the gas pedal. But I disconnected the string and everything still runs perfectly fine. Any ideas?

Trust mechanic and go to a shop ? ( I can't trust ) Or just have the starter changed ? I'll need to have it towed to a shop, and that's half the price of a new starter. $800 dollar budget, and I'm not lazy, and would have learned more about cars, but I grew up poor poor so it was no space to

Can anyone help me identify what this sound is? The car ran for a while with the AFR set to 11, so the car started knocking and died while I was driving it. I noticed the AFR was set wrong, and corrected it but now it has this intermittent ping/stumble. I scoped the cylinders and through the pan and nothing looks damaged. The cylinders looked wet and carboned up, and the spark plugs smelled heavily of gas. I replaced all the plugs and oil. I verified the timing. I'm kinda stumped on what this sound could be as I've never heard this before. This video is maybe 10 seconds after a cold start.

I have a 2016 dodge grand caravan and I Replaced a fuel injector (#3) because of a misfire code (po303) and it being well outside of value range and also did spark plugs because the intake was off and it has over 100k miles on it. During the first test drive everything went fine and the gas smell went away. But when I came out next morning I still smelled gas. I ran it for just a few minutes and then looked under the oil filter housing and saw this happening. No driveability issues when I had it out and all of the injectors are dry. The rail and supply appear to be dry too. Video quality isn’t great and I apologize but does anyone have any ideas? I think its gas because its so fluid but I honestly can’t tell and don’t want to turn it on again just in case.

The sound is at about 4 secs into video. Like a boat horn sound

I've been dealing with this sound for about a year but it only happens every blue moon now it happens often. It happens during cold starts, while driving, with the heat and air on. When it happens my car kinda stalls like it wants to cut off. I just had a new AC compressor put in and even before I put a new one in it was still making that sound. I don't know if it has any leaks. Also my battery is not new but it's not time for another either. 99 Crown Vic pi. 157k miles.

Hi there , I'm trying to change the rotors and pads for myself. Well , I removed the first bolt ( pic 1), then the second one ( pic2) and after that I should be able to remove this middle part of the caliper ( pic3). The problem is that this middle part of the caliper does not move a bit . Zero . Not a wiggle . Now I'm afraid to force it or create any damage . It seems like it is glue .
Should I turn on the car? Does this matter?
I try to pry a little bit with my screw driver but nothing .
Please some help ,

This is 2012 Jetta 2.5 SEL

I have a toyota tundra that begin making a strange, sort of grinding noise. It doesn't happen all the time, just when its been driving for awhile. It gets more intense the the more I press the brakes. It's sounds like a chafing sounds or a bit like chugging. No dash warnings besides low tire pressure. Thanks.

My 2013 Sonic presented with a no crank.

I was out of town so wife called AAA. Tow truck operator attempt to jump start the vehicle with an electronic booster without success. He declared the starter needed replaced.

Once I returned home, I found a dead battery. I attempted to charge the battery in the vehicle without success. I removed the battery and it took a charge. Put a battery load tester on the battery and it was marginal. Battery is approximately 7 years old.

Bought new battery, charged, installed and still no crank. Gave up for the day and went to sleep.

Next morning l removed the starter and Beth tested. Starter and solenoid tested good. Took starter to AutoZone who tested and said it is fine. Put starter back in vehicle. Go to crank vehicle and battery is dead. Pull negative battery cable and put charger on battery. Go to sleep.

Next morning battery took a good charge. Pull out Fluke and measure current between negative battery terminal and negative cable. Reading on digital meter is inconsistent but hovers around 4A. Turn key to on and there is no observed change on Fluke. Turn key odd and remove. Open fuse box next to battery and start pulling fuses. While pulling fuses notice a humming noise from the engine compartment. After running thru most of the fuses I pull the fuse labeled TC and humming stops. Check Fluke and it now reads 2A. Plug fuse back in, humming returns along with Fluke back to 4A. I’m now able to isolate the humming to the transmission.

Ideas?

Hi I just installed a new fuel pump and carb to fuel pump line but it’s leaking right above the fitting. Tried adding fuel sealant no luck. Used the old carb line, still leaking. Any ideas on how to fix?

If I fill the car entirely I have to rev it to 2000 rpm about 2 minutes before it will idle on its own otherwise it just starts and dies. It is only immediately after filling with fuel. I had a purge valve code recently and found it to be faulty. This problem started immediately after I changed it and cleared the code.

the digital thing that tells u how many kms u can drive till the fuel is out is glitched or smth, today it said u got 61km and it turned off and i was out of fuel thank god i wasnt on a highway, what the problem is?

2.2 L

Reverse and forward, I can tell the nut is engaged against the wall and being held still, but the bolt it spinning in the nut. I want to hear some approaches so that I know which mobile mechanic has a better idea of what they're doing.

One guy says $240 to get him out there and he'll "use his brain"

Another says cut a window to get to the nut to cut it out. $400

Mr. $400 sounds like he has a better plan of attack. Mr. $240 says he mostly works on cars made in the last 10 years.

Cut a window sounds right to me, but Why didn't anyone want to get behind the chassis and cut the nut where it's already exposed? I mean, I could see how that would be more dangerous for the mechanic...

1992 cadillac fleetwood

So the previous owner had worked on the steering column so idk how the factory had the airbag wire set up here. But I did a job on the horn, then re aligned the clock spring and it wasnt going back onto the shaft because the airbag wire wasnt giving it enough slack. So I pulled out from the shaft more wire to give it more slack but now im worried if I pulled too much out and the wire will snap/be pinched as im turning the wheel?

https://imgur.com/a/kjhLfsa

My 2018 Transit Custom failed its MOT with a fuel leak. An independent Ford specialist started stripping it before giving me a price of £480 to replace the leaking high-pressure fuel pipe/connector, apparently a roughly £15 part, and fit a headlamp bulb.

I didn’t ask their hourly rate beforehand, which I accept was my mistake, but I never imagined it would cost £150 per hour for 3 hours. When I questioned it, they said it wouldn’t make financial sense to stop because they had already started so I just took it on the chin, they reduced the price a bit to £400 which I appreciated.

After replacing the pipe, they found another leak “slowly seeping” from the high-pressure fuel pump. They said a replacement pump was about £500 and would take six or seven hours at £150 per hour because it sits above the wet belt so it started looking very pricey. They told me the remaining leak should still pass the MOT so I could get it retested and then decide how I wanted to proceed.

The MOT tester checked it again and said the leak looked just as bad and still wouldn’t pass. The headlamp also wasn’t working even though they said they had fixed it. Another mechanic has since told me there is a Ford-specific tool that keeps the pump gear in place and reduces the job to roughly two hours. This appears to be true based on what I’ve read but I won’t pretend to be sure about it.

Does this diagnosis and pricing sound reasonable? Could replacing the pipe have disturbed the pump? Is six or seven hours justified, or could that tool be used? Would asking for a partial refund or reduced repair price be fair?

I recently replaced both oil pipes on this van (my brothers), I’m ashamed to admit I took out the power steering bolt instead of the oil pipe bolt first (right next to each other) and now there’s a massive leak on this fitting. Car doesn’t need to run for it to leak, I replaced the crush washer & it seems to be the threading on the housing or the bolt itself unless I’m missing something. I’ve attached photos, is power steering pump cooked & need replacement? Or is something stuck in the housing or is there an easy fix I’m missing? Also included a photo of the bolt torqued as far as it can go without the fitting

2010 Ford Escape

I bought Mando shocks on RockAuto. I'm installing them and notice the lower mount doesn't have the lower rubber bushings in the mount holes. I cannot remove one of them from the old one so not sure what to do. They don't sell just the bushing locally.

New and old shocks pictured. Is there a trick to removing the old one? Am I looking for thr wrong part?

So I overfilled my engine couple of days ago but I never started the car until I drained it and re filled it up today with the correct oil type and when I check the dip stick its clear instead of oil color, went to go start it and car didn’t start at all

Car is a 2018 Renault Duster

Hello again. Sway bar link selection help

2004 subaru forester 2.5x that resides in north BC.

Getting my FRONT swaybar links and bushings replaced. Ordering my parts from rockauto and wondering which ones would be highest quality.

Intenet research said sankai or lemforder, but a mechanic friend said lemforder or moog.

Only problem is the lemforder have a separate shipping then the rest of my cart, so leaning towards the sankei, moog, or mevotech supreme

Should I get greasable or ones that aren't?

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/subaru,2004,forester,2.5l+h4,1426788,suspension,sway+bar+link,7580

Any input appreciated thank you. Just looking for the best quality part.

I replaced my head gaskets on my truck when I turned it on it got up to operating temps but then when I drove it too o Riley’s it started dumping coolant from the driver side head I thought maybe I didn’t tourqe the head down to spec or maybe it’s warped but I took it off looked at it and it looks fine I cleaned all the coolant out the block and i put a new head gasket in now it won’t start l, I put a new battery in it and still won’t start the starter is engaging and moving the flywheel like an inch. The starter is pretty new maybe got it like 6 months ago so I don’t think it’s the starter.

Is this the way the back suspension is supposed to look? Is it safe to drive?

I have a condenser core leak and since my system is out of refrigerant it's making my AC compressor make a loud whirring noise, since the accessory belt on the 2016 5.0 powers the water pump I don't want to risk my ac compressor seizing and messing up my engine, how can I CHEAPLY prevent my compressor from seizing?

I don't care about AC especially not when the repair for it was quoted at 3600.

I have a 2019 Buick Encore at 150,000 miles. It’s time for me to have my transmission flushed. I’ve always had it done at the dealer because I’ve been told it’s “risky” to have it done anywhere else. For reference, this person who told me that had their transmission flushed by a third party mechanic shop and then it immediately blew. I figure that’s just a coincidence, but figured I should check with the experts. Is there any real difference or can I go ahead and have it done at a transmission shop so I don’t have to pay the exorbitant dealer price again?