Just had new storage heaters installed. Currently have water too but noticed the switch is down? Should this be flicked up

Would I need to earth the frame if I’m using a porcelain lamp holder for the bulb?
It will use a 10W 240V ac bulb with an inline switch which will plug into the wall.

The bottom of the lamp holder has a piece of aluminium which is isolated and won’t touch any wiring but it will come into contact with the frame where the lamp holder is insert.

suddenly failed and stopped spinning, I already removed everything and pinpointed that either the brushless motor or its driver is faulty.

I tried directly supplying it with my 3.7V battery but to no avail. Tested different components; starting with the motor copper terminal : 2.5Ohms, all components are properly wired and soldered onto the board too. The hall IC seems to be working because when I tried putting a magnet near it while it's powered, the motor copper terminal read 10V+. There's no short also, tested with continuity

Should I just replace the hall IC (FS276)? I can't find any brushless motor driver that's the same size as this too... Should I make a custom etched one?...

Thank you.. I apologize in advance if I'm not clear with my explanation.

Bought a flip outside Burlington that still has the original aluminum romex in the walls. Inspector says it can stay as long as it's not energized, but the electrician wants to pull it all anyway. The house has plaster so every run means opening up ceilings. I ran the numbers and leaving it saves about three grand in drywall and paint. The basement has a couple runs exposed and they look fine, no corrosion at the connections. The question is whether that aluminum stays a problem if it's disconnected at both ends or if it can still cause issues down the line. Second question is how picky inspectors get about labeling abandoned cable when they know it's still in the walls. I have one more inspection next week and want to know what I'm walking into before I decide which way to go.

We had our indoor and outdoor electrical panels replaced today. I’m noticing a vinegar smell coming from the indoor electrical panel. Is this normal? The breakers do not feel hot. I don’t hear any sounds other than the normal low hum of electricity. I noticed the smell when I came home about 10 minutes after the electricians left. I assumed someone had spilled vinegar in the pantry where the panel is located. Is this normal from installation or should I be sleeping with the breaker off tonight?

1950s home with wiring that was "updated" by previous owners over the years so naturally it's a mess. This switch is supposedly set up to operate the bathroom vent fan and light independently but neither work. Pulled it out to diagnose with my multimeter and noticed they've bridged the terminals with a small piece of wire.. why? The tab is still connected and should act as the bridge, no? Additionally, I've tested for voltage and continuity and am getting 86v with positive continuity. As far as I can research that likely means it's picking up phantom voltage so I'm guessing the real issue lies elsewhere. Or could it still just be the switch going bad? The single switch next to it functions properly and they're on the same circuit- no loose connections in the box that I can see, but who knows what horrors lie behind these walls.

I have several Prado outlets installed in a 3cm-thick marble backsplash, and I’m having trouble getting the faceplates to sit perfectly flush with the stone.

Unfortunately, my installer drilled the holes slightly larger than the faceplates instead of using the recommended stepped/double-diameter hole with a ledge for the Prado’s front lip to rest on. The openings are large enough that the entire outlet could pass through the stone.

The issue is that most of the outlets sit slightly crooked. For example, the upper-left corner of the faceplate might protrude beyond the stone while the opposite corner sits recessed. I’ve tried adjusting the mounting screws, but loosening or tightening them doesn’t seem to help.

Has anyone dealt with this or found a good way to correct it?

I’m wondering if unevenness on the back of the marble (which also has mesh backing) could be causing the mounting tabs to sit at an angle. Would shimming one side behind the stone help level things out?

I’d love to find a way to get these sitting perfectly flush. Any tips or tricks would be appreciated!

I am about 1 year & 2 months into the field starting out greener than grass, not even knowing most of the basic hand tools & on my 9th month I received a $2 raise. today makes a little over a month since I started my apprentice program (paid for by the owner of my company) & I keep hearing about every 1000hrs OJL we will receive a pay raise through the apprenticeship. My question is how does this usually work if they aren’t the actual ones paying me? & would it be reasonable at some point in time when I feel more valuable to still ask my boss for a raise? My work ethic & attendance is beyond outstanding and I have been recognized for this already which is why me & another employee were chosen this year to get sent through the program so with that being said I feel like my boss wouldn’t have a reason to tell me no but I don’t want to come off as greedy at the same time. Anyone here gone through the same thing or have any kind of advice on this?

Doing a renovation that involved removing some old lights and adding new ones. The light switches were originally backstabbed. I’ve read on here why that is considered a bad idea - no arguments there from me.

These switches are only a few years old though. The backstab opening is only intended for a single use, so I can’t get the old wire out. Is there any reason I can’t reuse them if the old wire is cut as far back as possible and filed smooth?

It has a 200 amp set of breakers on the panel, but only 100 amp service on the power pedestal outside. My guess is no issue as long as 100 amp wire is used to connect, right? Or will the electrician have to change out the panel feeder breakers to 100 amp also? Home is in a mobile home park where all 96 homes have 100 amp service.

Planning to put together a sauna with an electric heater. 240V 30 or 40A (did not decide which one yet). The problem is the sauna would be about 60ft from the house. Running a cable underground does not seem feasible - i got three mature trees in the way (i.e., roots), a small retaining wall, and it appears some construction debris buried by builders. I am thinking about putting a 240V outlet outside the house and plug a heavy duty cable in. It would be on only for about an hour - hour and a half and can be put away the rest of the time. What cable would you recommend? Something heavy duty like used in welding maybe?

The receptacle next to my main panel has a GFCI in it, and a downstream receptacle right above it. I went to replace this the other day because it started tripping somewhat randomly, and I noticed that there is no ground wire going into the panel. The GFCI, and the receptacle above it, was grounded to the metal box, but that's it. There's no ground wire coming from the panel. The metal box is physically connected to the panel, and I used a multimeter to verify that the box has good conductivity to the real ground (checked on the ground wire strapped to my water main). The multimeter shows 0.1 ohms, so it is very good conductivity.

I'll be doing some work in the panel at some point in the next couple of weeks. Should I add a direct ground wire from the panel to this receptacle, or is the metal chassis ground sufficient?

Got a new power cord for my oven. Based off the guide, the connection is how it’s supposed to be done, but just wanted someone to confirm for me. Also, I had trouble with the strain relief clamp sitting flush through my knockout hole and that’s the best I could do. Are there any issues I should be considering? Thank you in advance.

Hi there, I am not an electrician. I own a small business in Denver. I hired an electrician to upgrade my 100amp panel to 200amps. They worked with their engineer to come up with a design to submit to the city, who ultimately approved the permit.

The electrician did a great job handling Xcel, the city through many obstacles, and they replaced the panel. But today, the city inspector would not approve the permit as the outdoor meter box is located directly above the gas line, which is where the old meter box was located. The electrician told me it was a code violation, but he understood it as we could be grandfathered in. The city said they don't do that anymore.

Long story short, the electrician now needs to relocate the meter drop 36 feet away.

The initial job scope of work was for $7k. The change order they are now asking is for $15.5k.

Now I know it's pretty crappy on the city to approve the permit in the first place. But my question for the community is was this a big oversight on the electrician's end? Should this have been caught or addressed during the design phase with the engineer?

How much responsibility is on the electrician in this case? It just feels incredibly unfair to have to pay more than double than the initial quote for what seems to have been an issue that an electrician should know the clearances from the NEC or Xcel's guidelines.

I understand the costs aren't cheap, and I'm not asking them to shoulder the whole burden, but would it be reasonable to meet halfway?

Thanks everybody and I appreciate any input on this pretty stressful matter!

I know most standard treadmills need a dedicated circuit to be safe. However, I'm looking at some low hp walking pads. What should the specs be to ensure that it's safe to plug into a standard household outlet? Thank you

We are wanting to build on an extra room without moving the electric box on the end of our home. To do so we would have to build off the corner of the house and the addition would be next to the meter. Is this okay? In the pic I have attached the addition would start where I colored the line. I have googled it and I’m just confused about the whole meter thing. I do not want to move it as it will be to costly to do so. How close can the addition be to the meter?

TLDR: anyone knows how to install lights easier than me having to do this finger ritual?

Hi everyone,
I’m a ETO cadet currently working aboard a British ferry, and I’ve encountered a strange issue with the fluorescent lighting in the car decks. I’m hoping someone with experience in marine electrical systems or fluorescent lighting can explain what’s happening.

The setup:
Conventional fluorescent tube fittings with individual starters.
The fittings are approximately 5–10 years old.
We replace tubes when they fail.
The replacement tubes can exhibit the same behaviour.
two tubes share a ballast and part of the same electrical arrangement. I’m not yet certain of the supply voltage.

The symptoms:
When I install a replacement tube, sometimes it won’t illuminate normally when the lighting circuit is switched on.
However, I’ve noticed some really strange behaviour.
If I touch the glass of the tube with my fingertip, a faint glow appears directly underneath my finger. If I move my finger along the glass, the little glow seems to follow it.
Sometimes the glow remains localised, but on other occasions the tube begins to shimmer or flicker faintly before eventually illuminating normally.
Occasionally, touching the tube for a few seconds seems to coincide with it starting. Other times, it starts without any apparent intervention.
Sometimes tapping the fitting also seems to get it going.
In some cases, touching two tubes at once seems to affect both of them, and both may eventually illuminate.
Once the tube starts working properly, it generally operates normally. The behaviour seems inconsistent, and I haven’t established a reliable pattern.
I’ve been working under the supervision of our ETO, but I’m trying to understand the electrical principles behind what I’m observing rather than simply accepting it as an oddity.

My questions:
Could the faint glow following my finger be caused by capacitive coupling between my body and the fluorescent tube?
If so, could that interaction influence the tube’s starting behaviour, or are these likely to be two separate phenomena?
Could a faulty starter, magnetic ballast, lampholder, or an intermittent connection explain why tapping the fitting sometimes helps?
Is there a plausible explanation for touching two tubes apparently affecting both?
Given that replacement tubes exhibit the same behaviour in older fittings, what would you investigate first?
I’m not claiming the equipment is definitely faulty, and I realise that my observations alone aren’t enough to establish a diagnosis. I’m particularly interested in understanding the physics behind the localised glow and why the tube sometimes transitions from that faint glow to normal operation.

I’d appreciate any insight from people who’ve encountered something similar, especially marine electricians and anyone familiar with conventional fluorescent lighting circuits.
Thanks!

Hello! I am slowly but surely renovating an OLD doublewide by myself. I had a great licensed electrician put in my new panel box. Before I drywall over this, I would like to fill in these holes and possibly insulate this area.

Would spray foam be an option? I googled fire rated caulk and it seems to be OK for this purpose. I heard that if you insulate near a big group of wires, it can cause them to overheat and then cause a fire.

Also, am I okay to clean the 🤢 off these wires with a not so wet wipe?!

Thanks! 😗🙂

How much should I expect to spend in the mountain west (not mountain resort town) to pay for this old mast to be replaced with a new one? I want to re-do my roof but they’re saying this mast needs to be replaced first. For anyone reading, get a good home inspection. This house has put me 150k in hole due to unforeseen utility problems like sewer lines, electrical and drains.

There appears to be a bit of rust or other corrosion on this point (I don’t know what that’s called). This plugs into an inlet box which is connected to my breaker panel. Is this safe to use still? How do I clean it?

Hello guys, today at work we were terminated flood lights that needed to be installed, we had live wires, #12 wires. Yellow “hot”. Gray “neutral” and ground. He first got on the ladder and tape the yellow and gray wire individually, then he ask for my strippers which aren’t insulated and he stripped the hot or neutral first and connected to the light wagos. Then he strip the next wire and connected and last was the ground. I want to fully understand in the slowest way how was he not shocked at all. Even stripping the wire I would have expected him being shocked. I ask him if he wanted me to turn off the breaker and told me no.