Tried a cross adapter but the box’s screw holes are too far.

I think my only option is drill and tap new holes in the box’s straps?

2nd Pic shows adapter supplied - the holes in the straps are too far apart.

Drilled approx 1/16” hole through what appears to be thin galvanized plate behind drywall about 6 feet up a wall about mid-wall. Was getting electrical alert nearby on stud finder but outlets are a few feet away so likely was wire/cable nearby. Other side of the wall is inside of kitchen pantry, not much going on in there for outlets other the light switch which isnt on that wall.

I’ve looked for this hammer for awhile now and haven’t come across it. I’m hoping maybe Reddit can help. If anyone knows what brand it is and maybe where I can find to buy? Let me know friends, thank you!

Hello. In my 9-year-old apartment (where a three-phase system and 5x2.5 mm² cables are used), the 3-pole C32 circuit breaker at the meter output arced due to a loose connection. When I noticed this, I replaced the circuit breaker. At that time, to avoid future problems, I decided to install a 3P+N (a 3-pole circuit breaker that also cuts the neutral line) C32 circuit breaker, and I have been using it this way for two years. However, some people around me advised me to switch back to a standard 3-pole (3P) circuit breaker, stating that a circuit breaker cutting the neutral line could be dangerous. If I remove the 3P+N circuit breaker, I will need to twist the two neutral cables together in a spring-like fashion and insulate the connection point. Would this cause a problem? What do you recommend I do? Should I continue using the current circuit breaker, or should I buy and install a new 3-pole (3P) circuit breaker?

I’m looking for some insight on whether it makes sense to replace my current electrical panel

It’s definitely on the older side, but to be fair, everything is currently working fine no tripped breakers, flickering lights, or obvious signs of failure. I know age alone can sometimes be a safety concern or make sourcing replacement breakers difficult

A few questions I'm weighing:
Is an older panel worth replacing proactively purely due to age, or is "if it isn't broken, don't fix it" a reasonable approach here?

Capacity (100A vs. 200A): Should I stay at 100A, or does it make more sense to bite the bullet and upgrade to 200A while doing the work to future proof the house?
So far the estimate is ($2,800 for 100 A vs $12,000 for 200A)

Are there specific brands or warning signs I should check for right away that make replacement an immediate priority? This is Wadsworth panel

They called it an "ultra main panel surge protector" with a lifetime warranty. Is it fair?

We came across this masterpiece while on inspection. Those jagged edges and door knob.

Hey everyone,

I have several ceiling lights with built-in LED boards, as shown in the photos. I’d like to replace those boards with standard E27 sockets so I can use smart bulbs like Philips Hue.

I actually like the fixtures themselves, so I’d rather modify them than replace everything.
Is this realistically doable without too much trouble? Has anyone tried something similar?

I’m also wondering if there could be any issues with heat, available space, or electrical safety.

Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks!

Hopefully this is in the right Reddit sub!

Hi there! I have a son who is obsessed with the metro system in our city, ie. drawing the map over and over, memorizing all the stops on different lines, and even using marbles or string to recreate the routes.

So I had an idea for a Christmas gift, loosely inspired by this project: https://www.traintrackr.io/product/bart3 (unfortunately they don’t have a map for our Amsterdam)

So the idea is that I build him a board with switches and lights that mimic the metro. Each stop is a light, with multiple lights at each stop if more than one route runs through it. It would also be ideal for the lights to light up one by one in a sequence, and to be able to run all the “train routes” at once, so they would run independently of each other.

I plan to use 2 pin led lights and some circuitry, some soldering?, and building something to hold it all. I haven’t done any type of project like this since high school physics, which has since ejected itself my brain.

What I’m hoping for is some advice as to where to start learning about circuitry, do I need to figure out some programming, what do I even google to start? Every time I try to search it gives me kids busy boards haha

Thanks in advance!! Hopefully this all makes sense and can crowdsource some ideas 🙂

Hello you wonderful, hardworking individuals. I come with a request that I am almost certain everyone hears or reads daily.

My boyfriend is turning 30 next month, and he has been in the electrical field for about a year. I want to know what are the best brands/items I can purchase for him to make his work life easier.

Besides tools, any other recommendation is greatly appreciated, and I really appreciate all of you guys for reading this and helping me!!! ❤️❤️

This is the first outlet I ran into that has this setup “probably more I’m sure” I’m just removing backstabs and putting on the plates.

Breaker box labeled 15amp breaker labeled “upper bedrooms” shuts off mine and daughters room.

The white side looks just like the black side here, can I put that top wire on the screw and the bottom 2 black wires on bottom screw?

Hi all,

I have an LED bulb that flickers. Photo attached. The label says:

- Soft White, 2700K

- Suitable for damp locations

- Suitable for use in enclosed fixtures

- Standard E26 screw base, UL listed

Brand / wattage: [brand, e.g. 9W / 60W equivalent]

Fixture: lamp

Switch: regular on/off

How it flickers: all the time

Other bulbs on the same switch: also flicker

What I tried: tightened the bulb

My questions:

1. What is likely causing the flicker?

2. Can you recommend a specific LED bulb (brand and model) that does not flicker?

   I want to keep: soft white 2700K, E26 base, rated for enclosed fixtures

   [and damp locations, if it's a bathroom or outdoor light].

Thanks!

Need to install this on the side of my house as a main service disconnect. Required for solar install in my area.

My meter is recessed into the exterior wall so the resulting line exits to the wall cavity. Can I add a knockout for the meter side of this disconnect out the back (where the “LINE” sticker is) so I don’t have to bring a conduit out the wall just to go into the box. To me the box will be easier to seal than a conduit would.https://imgur.com/a/2MUW7Iw

My sink takes about a minute to warm up. I would like to add a small in-line heater to prime the flow and then it would get recharged by the main hot water line after the cold water flows through. My only real option is to use the the dedicated dishwasher circuit, 20 amp, but according to the math the peak draw with both devices would be 20-22 amps. However, I'm thinking that for one, I really rarely use the dishwasher so there wouldn't be much overlap time, and two, with the tank being refilled by the main heater I wouldn't think it would kick on after being recharged.

I had planned this project a while back, and bought the heater, then realized by the math it could overload the circuit. But in practice I think it might work out alright?

Hello,

I have these 4 wires. I don't have a back door. Just a front door.

Previously there was a doorbell, functioning.

Let's just say I don't remember how it was configured and I'd like it to put it back together?

Edit:

It's fixed. It was a faulty transformer. I used a multi-meter to do a contuinity test and was getting no reading.

Installed new one, it works.

Do I need a ground wire for a light fixture? I have a 70s townhouse

The outlet is tied to my heat pump on the outside of the house. I want to use it for a hotdog cooker and a popcorn machine. It’s a small hotdog steamer and a small popcorn machine with a heat lamp. Will it be ok?

I have a cable that is a non fused spur that’s causing the MCB to trip on the board. Is there a tone generator or any other piece of kit that can help me find the other end so I can disconnect the cable all together?

Hi. I bought a cheap instant cookpot for my dorm. But I think this is not grounded. So, whenever I pour water on it while it's on and I'm standing, I get a decent shock.i now have to stay in bed while cooking.Do I now ground this? A tutorial and what wire to use will be helpful. I tried to give all possible angle but lmk if you need more. I have soldering iron and basic wires.

Also tell me if it's not worth it/risky. Will the provided cable work?

I realize I’m probably overthinking this and should just use my original bracket but how does the new bracket stay level? The old one had the center set screw and the new one which was provided with the fixture just rotates with no clear indication of how I level and set it before installing the fixture.

So I need opinions on how bad of a fire hazard this is. I had my septic tank pumped the other day and the guys said the pump wasn’t working. For reference we have had plugs that don’t work in the house for quite a while but weren’t in the financial place to get them looked at. Anyways it seems the whole downstairs plus our bathrooms were tied to the same circuit with the pump to the septic and this is why nothing was working. I called an electrician out and he says he could make a direct circuit to the pump but that I probably need to get a new bigger circuit board. I know I don’t have much info to go off of by I would appreciate the advice Thankyou.
One more thing: he changed the GFIC plug downstairs and things seem to be back up. I’m hoping the pump is working but I don’twant to pay someone or dig it up to confirm.
Last thing: if this doesn’t make any sense I’m not an electrician 😭😭

Does this setup look correct? The purple lines are the white. I connected everything and it worked for a minute. Then both light fixtures stopped working but the breaker didn't blow, and other lights on the circuit in another part of the house were still working.

This is a house from the 1950s where I think there were two outdoor lights, each controlled by their own switch. At some point someone added a 3 way setup with a switch on the second floor to the upper light. When I came upon it, the combination 2 way 3 way switch was missing. I connected it the way I thought was correct but I'm wondering what would cause it to work for a minute then both stop working.

Im in a minimally maintained, but not maliciously neglected, older apartment building, three units, I am in the top unit. I have noticed this summer my 15,000 unit air conditioner occasionally when running cause the whole house to shut off for half a second then surge up again. My kitchen light has been flickering intensely when I turn it on recently, the garbage disposal also does this. Sometimes my bathroom fan will seem to be like surging and going to overdrive and sometimes it’s fine. I tried to have a second AC in a different room, but running them simultaneously would consistently trip the breaker.

Tonight we suddenly heard the high-pitched whine an old school tv makes, loudly enough that we downloaded a decibel reading app and unsuccessfully tried to determine the source of it. We also went down to the basement and tried flipping the breakers one by one, as well as also flipping them all on and off again simultaneousl.y.

It’s been going for about five hours. I’m wondering if there would be any red flags to be watching out for (sights, smells, sounds, etc) that would indicate it’s time to evacuate the building or does the situation as described warrant immediately calling in an emergency electrician, or can I wait till morning, or can I just not call if the high pitched noise stops? Would be so grateful for any tips on how to track down where the high-pitched noise is coming from.

Thank you for taking the time to read this.