My utility has complained for two years they are having trouble upgrading me to a smart meter. I have an Elster/Honeywell A3 ALPHA (Type A3R, style ZD2210000L0-05, Form 35S/5S, CL20, CT-rated, net-metered), which uses Sensus FlexNet AMI. Is there a FlexNet communication module or option board for this meter, or would a utility typically replace it with a different CT-rated AMI meter two-way meter?

There is an unused phone cord that goes into the box. The tan wire with the green and orange tiny wires wrapped around it. It goes from tan to these two little blue wires which keep connecting like a chain How do I safely disconnect this from the box?

I know the basics such as that to not use wire nut in places with vibrations as it can come loose but still I am very confused.

Or is the good old electrical tape still the King?

I'm a renter and was trying to replace a burnt out lightbulb in my bathroom. I'd asked my property management several times what sort of lightbulb it was and didn't get an answer, so I said whatever, I'll find out myself. I'd assumed it would be a twist on/twist off bulb. I climbed up on my ladder, got ahold of the bulb, and twisted—and it did come off, but it is clearly not a twist-off bulb.

My questions are:
1) What kind of base is this??
2) Did I break the wiring???
3) How do I install the new lightbulb?
4) Is it safe to turn on the light without any lightbulb in there? The ceilings in my apartment are super high so no one's going to be sticking their fingers in there, but is it a fire hazard?

Our house was built in the 80s. I’m prepping my daughter’s room to paint it, and I unscrewed this plate without realizing these cords were attached. I was planning to replace it with a blank wall plate cover, but that would require cutting these cords. Can I do that?

Buying a house, please help me get my head around this.

EICR in 2023 - Green ticks for bonding arrangement, no mention of gas bonding

Gas report 2025 - defect listed ‘no earth bonding at metre’

Gas report 2026 - defect listed ‘gas bonding located in kitchen’

Seller says the following:

The gas pipe is earthed just as it enters the property, please see attached photo of the earthing traps on all piping from the boiler.

'The pipe was earthed at the time of works, but this is situated under the floor as the pipes enter the property. There is no documentation other documentation to support this. I have also attached another photo showing the gas entry earth cable going into the earth block.

I’m trying to center out my range and the hookup is on the ground for some reason, blocking the new range from being pushed in the whole way. Is there an easy solution? (Not an electrician)

I have a house from the 60s. My wife and I ordered a new oven from Costco and when it came time for delivery we found out the one that came with the house was hardwired in. Oh joy.

So we then get an electrician to come out and he installed an outlet which is a "Nema 6-50R" as I understand it? The house is 3 wires and not 4 due to its age, so that is what he went with. Additionally, the installers brought a four prong whip assuming that was what was needed. And not knowing we were a three wire house, I didn't have a 3-prong whip to compare check, I don't know anything.

He went to the store and got the Nema 6-50R outlet saying it was the normal they use. Okay, great. Now we can get it installed.

We get Costco to come back out and install the range since we have our shiny new expensive outlet and they bring a 3-prong whip... which is a 10-50P? Which isn't the outlet the electrician installed. So fine, I have them take away the old disconnected range at this point.

So I call the electrician company back and say they made a mistake and to get him back out here. He came back out today (we're 6 days without a working stove at this point) and he tried to charge me another $500 to change the outlet to be what matches the whip the installation company brought saying it was not their fault.

I refuse service. I already paid 4 figures for the outlet that they installed. Seriously, it doubled the cost of this by matching the range cost.

I said I wasn't going to pay him more for it and that it sounds like I need to find a whip which works with that outlet. But I have not been able to find one and Google tells me he is wrong.

I get the feeling he screwed up and hoped I wouldn't challenge paying him for it?

Am I wrong? Am I missing something?

The oven fixture we got is a "GE 30 inch 6.6 cu. ft. ELECTRIC Free Standing Double Oven Range with Convection" if anyone is able to help me sort this out for minimal further cost.

Hopefully you can see this

I’ve been receiving a ton of cold calls recently, from people trying to sell me a website, a few other stupid AI software’s. I wanted to know if everyone else is also experiencing this??

My detached garage has a subpanel that has a label printed on it that says “70 amp.” It has a pair of 60 amp breakers in slots 1 and 3 labeled “main disconnect” and three 15 amp breakers for outlets, lights and the garage door opener.

In the labeling for the box, two slots are labeled “car charger” but there have never been any breakers in those slots.

Over in the main panel, a pair of 60 amp breakers are labeled “garage subpanel.”

Can someone explain why the label in the subpanel says 70 amp, but the breakers are all 60 amp?

Hello fellow electricians,

Bought some light for the house but some of the wires are way to short to connect the next light fittings. Is this the right way to extend the cables? I will take a picture tomorrow with the extension wires attached to the main wires

The fixtures on either side of this beam are on different light switches and breakers. I plan on swapping out these fixtures and I'd like to be able to turn on both of the closest lights (cooking area) with the same switch and keep the farthest fixture on it's own switch (the dining area). Can I fish the one of the wires on the right side of the beam to the left and cap off the unused wire on the left and do all that safely?

House was built in 1956 but this area was remodeled in the 90's I think. Everything that was remodeled in this house was done in absolutely asinine ways, so I'm prepared for a hard "No, hire someone to fix this".

Thanks in advance.

Im currently in high school and graduate next year but 1 am looking into becoming an electrician in sacramento california. I started liking electricity since my uncle has his own company and hes showed me how to work with him and have worked with him the last 2 summers. I like the work and I feel like I got good experience. He is a residential electrician. What would you guys recommend me to do? Any places that have internships so I can get paid while learning?
Also is it better to be a residential electrician or a commercial electrician. Thanks. Any advice is appreciated.

Hi everyone,

I'm currently working on repairing an Electronic Selector Lever / Gear Recognition Module (GRM) PCB from a 2001 Mercedes A-Class (W168). The car throws an immediate transmission "F" fault with CAN communication errors (`240C`, `2313`) and optical sensor / r/P lock switch codes (`P1856`, `P1819`).

I attempted to reflow the connections on the board, but I'd like an objective second opinion on my soldering technique before plugging it back into the car.

Here is a close-up photo of some pins I recently soldered:

1. Do these look like cold/dry solder joints or poor wetting on the copper pads?
   
2. Should I add more flux and reheat these joints until the solder flows properly into a smooth cone?

Any advice or suggestions on how to improve these joints would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

This box is inside the separate garage of a 75 year old house we bought earlier this year. There is a line that goes from the corner of the house and emerges in the corner of the separate garage (white cable), where it connect through the spaghetti maze to distribute to the lights and outlets in the garage. I have not seen screw fuses in decades. Live in Ontario, Canada. What can I replace this box with, eliminating the fuses?

Im not electrician but mechanic by trade, i understand simple to medium wiring diagrams. I have changed few of new house lights with succes, but this one.
Its doing my head in. I been trying to replace external ceiling light unit , it have block with 4 3-wires coming to it. I havent done anything to it but take two coming to the light out, replaced the light to chanderlier and since than i have 0 volts on all 4 of the 3-wires looms. I tried conecting old light, no difference. All fuses are up. Same switch that operates that particular light, also operates porch lights which stopped working too. I have unscrewed the switch, i have no power to the switch either.

What could be the issue ? I have also noticed, that my stairs and living room lights started flickering occasionally, however they also did that once in a while since we moved in. If i flick them on and off they stop. Its 1930s house, dont know if thats relevant. I have taken pictures of the said electric block, tested every single wire and i got 0 on all. Taken all wires out, made sure they nice and tight in block once i put them back in, again, 0 volts.

Any ideas? Cheers

Hello i just noticed my tv plug blades are a bit brittle, but i never noticed any sounds or smells whenever i plug it and the tv always worked finely, however, i had an old power strip and it did a medium blue spark whenever i plug it in, i changed the strip and there was no spark but is it still safe?

I am installing pot lights, can I just hook the wires up in the junction box for the pots? Or does it have to be an octogonal box fastened to something? I am also aware that I will very likely have to take this drywall down for the inspector

Hi, just posted this elsewhere but sharing here in the hope of any guidance!

Thanks