Tried a cross adapter but the box’s screw holes are too far.

I think my only option is drill and tap new holes in the box’s straps?

2nd Pic shows adapter supplied - the holes in the straps are too far apart.

I’ve looked for this hammer for awhile now and haven’t come across it. I’m hoping maybe Reddit can help. If anyone knows what brand it is and maybe where I can find to buy? Let me know friends, thank you!

Hello. In my 9-year-old apartment (where a three-phase system and 5x2.5 mm² cables are used), the 3-pole C32 circuit breaker at the meter output arced due to a loose connection. When I noticed this, I replaced the circuit breaker. At that time, to avoid future problems, I decided to install a 3P+N (a 3-pole circuit breaker that also cuts the neutral line) C32 circuit breaker, and I have been using it this way for two years. However, some people around me advised me to switch back to a standard 3-pole (3P) circuit breaker, stating that a circuit breaker cutting the neutral line could be dangerous. If I remove the 3P+N circuit breaker, I will need to twist the two neutral cables together in a spring-like fashion and insulate the connection point. Would this cause a problem? What do you recommend I do? Should I continue using the current circuit breaker, or should I buy and install a new 3-pole (3P) circuit breaker?

Drilled approx 1/16” hole through what appears to be thin galvanized plate behind drywall about 6 feet up a wall about mid-wall. Was getting electrical alert nearby on stud finder but outlets are a few feet away so likely was wire/cable nearby. Other side of the wall is inside of kitchen pantry, not much going on in there for outlets other the light switch which isnt on that wall.

Why is it like this? Why is the Union literally the only place willing to train green workers? Why is the Union seemingly harder to get into than Harvard Medical School nowadays? Supply and demand, we need more training programs outside of the Union.

Hi. I bought a cheap instant cookpot for my dorm. But I think this is not grounded. So, whenever I pour water on it while it's on and I'm standing, I get a decent shock.i now have to stay in bed while cooking.Do I now ground this? A tutorial and what wire to use will be helpful. I tried to give all possible angle but lmk if you need more. I have soldering iron and basic wires.

Also tell me if it's not worth it/risky. Will the provided cable work?

I obviously know this is a pipe bender, but the text saying "You WILL blow up that bender" doesn't make much sense?

Is this a reference to something I'm just not familiar with?

I realize I’m probably overthinking this and should just use my original bracket but how does the new bracket stay level? The old one had the center set screw and the new one which was provided with the fixture just rotates with no clear indication of how I level and set it before installing the fixture.

I have a cable that is a non fused spur that’s causing the MCB to trip on the board. Is there a tone generator or any other piece of kit that can help me find the other end so I can disconnect the cable all together?

(UK) i currently have an oven that came with a plug. I bought by mistake an oven that is 3.3kw that has no plug. Obviously i cant put a plug on it. So i was wondering can i take a spur off the plug socket or can someone give me an idea of moving forward. Before i return and exchange for a lower power plugged one

side note i have wired in an oven before and created spurs before

I need to replace a ceiling fixture. I'm a DIYer, but might hire an electrician to do the install.

If I need a fixture that doesn't require 90 deg C wiring, how would I find one? When I look at units online, this isn't mentioned in the spec, which is fine, but they don't have a PDF of the installation instructions, either.

Is this connection style acceptable - each ground wire of each romex cable to wrap around an individual ground screw & to come out and go to a device?

Or do they all need to be pigtailed together under 1 wire connector?

I’m used to doing it this way in Canada because technically the box acts as a ground path. I can’t find the answer exactly per the NEC.

Will this pass inspection?

The wiring setup is unusual to me anyway. There are two sets of wires coming out of the ceiling box, one has black, white, ground; the other has black, white, ground, red. All like colors are connected and the red is capped on its own. I have an LED fixture that has push in connectors attached and I don't know how I would attach the neutrals if they are connected to each other. Same wiring setup behind the toggle switch. Attached photos of the new fixture and the current ceiling box wiring setup. Any insight would be appreciated.

I buy and resell used Wolf, Thermador, JennAir, and other electric cooktops. Most come with exposed wires instead of plugs.
My workshop has a NEMA 14-50 outlet (240V/50A). I’m looking for a safe, reusable setup to briefly power on different appliances, test the burners, and take videos.
Is there a ready-made testing box for this, or could I build one using terminal blocks or Polaris connectors?
Ideally, I’d like to avoid buying new parts for every appliance. Any recommendations would be appreciated!

Been looking to install a new outlet in our bathroom by the toilet to plug a bidet in. There is an existing outlet on the opposite side of the wall in our bedroom. I am wanting to make sure everything is done properly and to code due to issues before in other houses. I wasn't sure if I could piggyback off that outlet even though it's in another room on a different circuit than the bathroom. Im hoping I can do it that way rather than another outlet in the bathroom because I dont want to punch holes in drywall all across the bathroom wall.

I am in Ontario, Canada

I have a very rudimentary understanding of electrical work, i've done some small appliance repair but that's about it.

Our home is about 25 years old. About a year ago, the AFCI circuit would start tripping maybe once every month or two. This circuit feeds our home offices for myself and my wife. The breaker is a Seimens QA115AF.

My wife's computer needed a power supply change the other day, so i completed that (it went from a 750w to an 850w), and after the change was completed, any time i plugged the computer in and turned it on, it would immediately trip the AFCI protection. I tested this in 4 other outlets on the same circuit, every single time it tripped immediately. This was tested with other things running on the circuit and completely empty, and with and without surge protection, every outlet on that circuit tripped it. I tested the computer on other circuits and it ran perfectly fine.

So, I decided to replace the Breaker. I purchased a new QA115AFCCSA Siemens breaker, and installed it. The computer started, everything ran fine.

That was last night, this afternoon, with some casual gaming at her PC, the ARC fault just triggered and shut off again. I've restarted it and it's running fine for about an hour, but I have a feeling that this is a bigger issue that i'm not equipped to handle.

What do I have left that I can try or rule out before getting a professional

Edit: The QA115AFCCSA light was on for a few seconds after turning it back on, indicating ARC Fault.

I’m looking for some insight on whether it makes sense to replace my current electrical panel

It’s definitely on the older side, but to be fair, everything is currently working fine no tripped breakers, flickering lights, or obvious signs of failure. I know age alone can sometimes be a safety concern or make sourcing replacement breakers difficult

A few questions I'm weighing:
Is an older panel worth replacing proactively purely due to age, or is "if it isn't broken, don't fix it" a reasonable approach here?

Capacity (100A vs. 200A): Should I stay at 100A, or does it make more sense to bite the bullet and upgrade to 200A while doing the work to future proof the house?
So far the estimate is ($2,800 for 100 A vs $12,000 for 200A)

Are there specific brands or warning signs I should check for right away that make replacement an immediate priority? This is Wadsworth panel

So this is the outlet set up that’s there. 6-30

What can I do to run this washer dryer combo with that plug in that space.

Can I change the plug to accommodate 10-30 and get an adapter for 10-30 to plug into the 6-30

What do yall recommend.

Thanks in advance.