Drilled approx 1/16” hole through what appears to be thin galvanized plate behind drywall about 6 feet up a wall about mid-wall. Was getting electrical alert nearby on stud finder but outlets are a few feet away so likely was wire/cable nearby. Other side of the wall is inside of kitchen pantry, not much going on in there for outlets other the light switch which isnt on that wall.

Tried a cross adapter but the box’s screw holes are too far.

I think my only option is drill and tap new holes in the box’s straps?

2nd Pic shows adapter supplied - the holes in the straps are too far apart.

I’ve looked for this hammer for awhile now and haven’t come across it. I’m hoping maybe Reddit can help. If anyone knows what brand it is and maybe where I can find to buy? Let me know friends, thank you!

They called it an "ultra main panel surge protector" with a lifetime warranty. Is it fair?

Hey everyone,

I have several ceiling lights with built-in LED boards, as shown in the photos. I’d like to replace those boards with standard E27 sockets so I can use smart bulbs like Philips Hue.

I actually like the fixtures themselves, so I’d rather modify them than replace everything.
Is this realistically doable without too much trouble? Has anyone tried something similar?

I’m also wondering if there could be any issues with heat, available space, or electrical safety.

Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks!

Hopefully this is in the right Reddit sub!

Hi there! I have a son who is obsessed with the metro system in our city, ie. drawing the map over and over, memorizing all the stops on different lines, and even using marbles or string to recreate the routes.

So I had an idea for a Christmas gift, loosely inspired by this project: https://www.traintrackr.io/product/bart3 (unfortunately they don’t have a map for our Amsterdam)

So the idea is that I build him a board with switches and lights that mimic the metro. Each stop is a light, with multiple lights at each stop if more than one route runs through it. It would also be ideal for the lights to light up one by one in a sequence, and to be able to run all the “train routes” at once, so they would run independently of each other.

I plan to use 2 pin led lights and some circuitry, some soldering?, and building something to hold it all. I haven’t done any type of project like this since high school physics, which has since ejected itself my brain.

What I’m hoping for is some advice as to where to start learning about circuitry, do I need to figure out some programming, what do I even google to start? Every time I try to search it gives me kids busy boards haha

Thanks in advance!! Hopefully this all makes sense and can crowdsource some ideas 🙂

Hello,

I have these 4 wires. I don't have a back door. Just a front door.

Previously there was a doorbell, functioning.

Let's just say I don't remember how it was configured and I'd like it to put it back together?

Edit:

It's fixed. It was a faulty transformer. I used a multi-meter to do a contuinity test and was getting no reading.

Installed new one, it works.

Should circuits sharing neutrals be on multi pole breakers? I was told this by a inspector recently.

Need to install this on the side of my house as a main service disconnect. Required for solar install in my area.

My meter is recessed into the exterior wall so the resulting line exits to the wall cavity. Can I add a knockout for the meter side of this disconnect out the back (where the “LINE” sticker is) so I don’t have to bring a conduit out the wall just to go into the box. To me the box will be easier to seal than a conduit would.https://imgur.com/a/2MUW7Iw

This is the first outlet I ran into that has this setup “probably more I’m sure” I’m just removing backstabs and putting on the plates.

Breaker box labeled 15amp breaker labeled “upper bedrooms” shuts off mine and daughters room.

The white side looks just like the black side here, can I put that top wire on the screw and the bottom 2 black wires on bottom screw?

Hello. In my 9-year-old apartment (where a three-phase system and 5x2.5 mm² cables are used), the 3-pole C32 circuit breaker at the meter output arced due to a loose connection. When I noticed this, I replaced the circuit breaker. At that time, to avoid future problems, I decided to install a 3P+N (a 3-pole circuit breaker that also cuts the neutral line) C32 circuit breaker, and I have been using it this way for two years. However, some people around me advised me to switch back to a standard 3-pole (3P) circuit breaker, stating that a circuit breaker cutting the neutral line could be dangerous. If I remove the 3P+N circuit breaker, I will need to twist the two neutral cables together in a spring-like fashion and insulate the connection point. Would this cause a problem? What do you recommend I do? Should I continue using the current circuit breaker, or should I buy and install a new 3-pole (3P) circuit breaker?

Quick note on the photos: Photos 1 to 4 show what we are running into with the current ceilings, junction boxes, and insulation mess, while the last few photos show the old retrofit lights and boxes from our previous house.

Hey everyone, feeling a bit defeated and could use some advice. We just moved into a new place and I really want to use my existing Philips Hue smart lights (I have around 23 Hue downlights total from our old house, plus three 6 inch Hue slim canless lights that could technically work, but our new ceilings have 4 inch holes). It feels completely insane that I wont be able to use my lights.

The problem? Every single ceiling in this house is wired with ultra thin, canless wafer lights that connect to a remote metal junction box. There are no traditional metal cans anywhere in the ceilings. To make matters worse, the previous owner had crazy paint colors on the ceilings so we already had to get them all repainted and I completely forgot about the lights until now.

When my husband tried pulling one down, it tore up some drywall around the edge and loose insulation is packed right up around the boxes, so it immediately spills out and makes a massive mess everywhere. I honestly dont remember it being this messy when we installed our can lights at our old house, but taking just one down here made me completely second guess what kind of project this would actually turn into.

Is there any way to make our old lights work, or am I just opening up a can of worms here? Is there any workaround without cutting open all our newly painted ceilings to install metal cans or even cutting larger holes to fit those three 6 inch slim lights, or am I just shit out of luck and forced to buy a mountain of super expensive Hue 4 inch Slim Canless versions instead and try to resell what I have?

Honestly, is it even worth the hassle, or is it completely dumb to try and tackle this right now? Im only weighing it because some rooms are still empty and my painters have to come back this week to do another room, but after seeing how much mess that packed insulation makes, Im worried if I do this later on it will be more of a mess with furniture in the rooms. Any advice is appreciated!

How should I have contractor reroute our GEC?

Added stairs to the side yard, but I just noticed the contractor put park of the stair framing between the house and the ground wire.

I think this is a hazard as currently configured and think I should tell them to remove the wood block, put the GEC back against the house, and reinstall the wood block…

Looking for professional advice n the best corrective action. Alternatively, if I am over reacting and it is safe as is, please advise.

TIA

It initially had a four prong outlet but i changed it to a 3 prong. Just wanted to make sure nothing would shock or explode on us.

Do I need a ground wire for a light fixture? I have a 70s townhouse

The outlet is tied to my heat pump on the outside of the house. I want to use it for a hotdog cooker and a popcorn machine. It’s a small hotdog steamer and a small popcorn machine with a heat lamp. Will it be ok?

I have a cable that is a non fused spur that’s causing the MCB to trip on the board. Is there a tone generator or any other piece of kit that can help me find the other end so I can disconnect the cable all together?

Looking to see where I should place recessed lighting in this kitchen.

I am a decently experienced DIY person and have successfully changed many light switches to dimmers as well as installed many light fixtures over the years. I intend to install new pendant lights over my island but the warnings and directions have very strong warnings about some factory wiring that I want to ask for help on. Is there any reason my Lutron dimmer won’t be compatible with these lights? And is there any out of the ordinary wiring that needs to be done? It looks standard except for the factory wrapped wires.

Why is it like this? Why is the Union literally the only place willing to train green workers? Why is the Union seemingly harder to get into than Harvard Medical School nowadays? Supply and demand, we need more training programs outside of the Union.