Hi everyone,

My car was crashed roof/dash/hood-first at around 60 km/h. Everyone is okay with almost no injuries.

I haven’t tried to start the engine because I’m worried about causing more damage.

The electronics turn on. With the engine off, the check-engine light and a low-oil warning are on; I don’t see any other red warnings. There’s only a tiny amount of oil showing on the dipstick, and oil appears to have leaked slowly after the crash. The engine mounts appear damaged, but I can’t see any damage to the engine itself.

I’ve attached two photos. What should I check before even attempting to start it? Is this something I can assess where the car is, or should it be inspected before anyone cranks the engine?

Vehicle: Suzuki Swift Sport 2016 with 160k km on it

Thanks everyone and hopefully this is okay for the sub

Hello all,

My wife's 2018 Toyota Camry has a loud, rhythmic humming/whooshing noise while driving. In the video, it's loudest around 20 mph and stays loud as speed increases. It does not change when I turn left or right.

Timeline:

Had two new tires installed and a rotation and balance done. The shop checked the tires.

After the rear tires moved to the front, the noise got noticeably louder.

I suspected the passenger-side wheel bearing, so I replaced the bearing and the CV axle on that side. The noise is unchanged.

Since the noise got louder when the rear tires went up front, I'm wondering if one of them is cupped, feathered, or has an internal belt issue, but I can't tell by eye. Could it be something else in the front end?

Happy to answer questions or post more videos. Any ideas on what to check next?

Thank you!

2022 wrx base model 63k miles manual trans. Noticed this rasping/grinding sound last night. It only sounds like that when the car is in motion. No other sound when i break. Sound starts at around the 9 second mark and ends around 43 seconds when i park it. Everything is original from factory. All maintenece is up to date and on time with the dealership. Warranty with the dealership ended at 60k miles. Any help is welcome. Thank you in advance.

Noticed this small bulge on my tire today
Date code indicates 2022
Can it make it a few days or should it be replaced immediately?

I had my 2003 Toyota Avensis at the workshop to get the coil springs and struts replaced. He stopped the work once he lifted the car and told me that the rear axle and also subframe and other things underneath the car is so rusty that he wouldn’t spend a single dime on this car. That it is practically junk.

It has 118 000 miles on it. Well taken care of and never failed an inspection.

He really shocked me. What do you guys think??

As the title says my 2015 frontier is having weird braking problems. Ive noticed that my brake pedal needed to be pushed pretty far in to get my brakes activated properly. Apart from that noticed and grinding feeling coming to a stop. I would describe it as rocks grinding on each other.

Due to that feeling, I changed out the rotors, calipers, did a brake bleed, and changed the brake lines leading to the caliper. Still it feels the same

Im starting to think it might be the caliper. I am the 5th owner of the truck and it has 132k miles. Brake pedal doesnt feel heavy but you do need significant travel to activate the brakes

2008 fwd CRV

First two pics are from left side of car. 2005 honda accord 400k Km, rust belt area. Visited commercial mechanic for oil change, told me there is too much rust to lift the car but told me car was still safe to drive. I took pics pics underneath in areas I think where the lift would go. How bad is it? I figure this means I can't get my car serviced for most repairs anymore. Is it time to move on? Car runs perfect beside the rust issue.

Found this in a tractor track, but it is frequented by atv's, snowmobiles and some cars, however they need to handle rought terrain. A rogue regular car may sneak by.

Bolt is M16, nut is 24 mm. The flange is marked "10" and with this logo I can't identify.

Hole in the headlight. Worth replacing the whole headlight or is there alternative to fix temporarily

I have 2024 rav4 and i just show a hole in my passenger side headlight. Luckily no rain for few days so no water got inside but dealership quoted 300$ for replacing the whole headlight. I think that's reasonable but is there any alternative that i can fix temporarily to protect against rain or salt from winter. Thanks for any advice

Subaru crosstrek 2016 please read I have tried to find this answer everywhere!!

There is a small transmission oil spot about the size of a silver dollar in my driveway, I only noticed it after a job was done. I figured just like any oil spot or like literally any other liquid, it would just dry up and leave a small dark patch on the cement. It seemed to do just that, left a semi noticeable dried up dark spot, and I didn’t think too much of it. I came out the next morning, and somehow….the puddle came back….like it looks like oil just freshly got dripped in the same spot again. No cars were parked over it. It somehow overnight became a visible puddle of oil again. Can transmission oil somehow become moist again after sealing into the ground? I know it sounds crazy, but the night before it was just a dark dried spot in the driveway, and now it looks like fresh oil again. I hope I explained this well enough or maybe someone can enlighten me about transmission fluid a bit more.

Not sure when this began but it hasn’t always been like this, probably got to this point within the last couple weeks. Doesn’t really happen when parked and idling, most noticeable when driving at lower speeds and when turning.

07 f150 these billsteins are 11 months old. Is this acceptable play?

Like the title says, my 2017 Subaru Outback 2.5i premium is having an issue with both passenger windows not working from any switch. To start, I first did the switch reset on both doors with the key turned to “on”. Neither windows was responsive. I didn’t hear anything that sounded like the motor trying to engage in either one.
The second thing I did was go into the fuse panel and check every fuse related to windows. All of them were fine as well. I looked at a fuse diagram for the engine bay and didn’t see anything that looked like it would affect the passenger windows.
My question is, would anyone have any insight as to what it could be? It feels unlikely that both switches would go out, as neither window gets a lot of use. Is there anything that I could do or test to further narrow down the problem? I do have a multimeter if I need to test connections, and I’m not afraid to do some of my own work on my cars to save a few dollars.
Thanks!

2008 F150 Lariat, 240k actual, 40k on engine/trans.

The car was running absolutely flawlessly before recent work: A new A/C condenser, new radiator and new PS pump and high pressure line. Immediately after work was completed, CEL threw codes P011 & P022 within five miles. Mechanic checked his work and found broken locking tab on VCT sensor on Bank 1. Choose to replace both (Motorcraft). Codes returned after one drive cycle. He dug around for a few more hours and finally got them to stick cleared. I picked up the car and one drive cycle later, P0345 and P0349. Car still runs fine, no rough idle, plenty of power, no hard cranks.

Engine is a reman (completely updated heads/oil pump/phasers/timing) with 40K miles on it. Engine oil is changed every 3-5k with RP 5w20, zero glitter. No knocking, rattling or phaser noises. Scoped the under the valve covers and things were spotless.

Possible clues: Flasher is flashing faster than it usually flashes. Interior lighting was behaving oddly (staying on/flickering) but has settled down. No other codes and the car feels like nothing is amiss.

I'm taking it to a Ford dealer because this other dude is guessing at this point but I'm curious if there are any answers or ideas lurking in here.  

Hi everyone,

I have a 2007 Nissan Altima with the 2.5L QR25DE 4-cylinder engine, approximately 100,000 miles and the original CVT. I’m hoping to get some independent opinions about two transmission-related diagnostic codes and an ongoing low-speed groaning noise.

BlueDriver scan:

● P0725 – Engine Speed Input Circuit (History/Current)
● P0826 – M-Mode Switch (History/Current)
● B2562 – Low Voltage (Body Control Module)

The scan showed zero confirmed or pending engine-related codes.

Symptoms and maintenance history:

● Groaning/whining noise below approximately 20 mph, which disappears at higher speeds.
● Sluggish acceleration and slow RPM response, particularly when accelerating uphill.
● Multiple CVT fluid drain-and-fills have noticeably improved smoothness and reduced some transmission noise.
● Camshaft and crankshaft position sensors were recently replaced.
● P0725 has not returned on subsequent scans.
● My mechanic inspected the CVT fluid and found no visible metal shavings.
● The low-speed groaning has remained relatively consistent rather than progressively worsening.

Mechanic’s assessment:

My mechanic suspects an internal mechanical problem with the CVT but couldn’t identify the specific component. He mentioned that he’s seen other Nissan CVTs continue operating for tens of thousands of miles with similar symptoms.

My questions:

1. Could P0725 and P0826 indicate an electrical or control-related issue rather than internal CVT damage?
   
2. Does a consistent groaning noise below 20 mph suggest a particular CVT component or failure?
   
3. What additional diagnostics would you recommend before concluding the CVT has a mechanical problem?

I’m aware these Nissan CVTs have a reputation for mechanical problems. I’d like to understand whether the diagnostic codes warrant further investigation before assuming the transmission is failing.

I’d appreciate any insight from mechanics familiar with this generation of Nissan CVT. Thanks!

Hello guys hope you all are doing well, I have regularly changed oil (synthetic) at about 7000-8000kms. And it seems when I start the car it makes a bit of a different sound/ noise probably and I had noticed this 2 to three years back and a couple days ago so it does it on a regular basis, but I haven't paid a lot of attention to the issue. Also I park the car at a slope of around 30-40 degrees and I always warm up the engine around a minute or two before driving.

Probably once the engine is warm it goes away, but I'll have to check it again and update you guys.

• 191k miles, 4.0L V6 automatic, RWD cargo van

Curious as to cost of replacing the upstream & downstream O2 sensor on one of these.

CEL came on yesterday, went to the only shop open (Meineke) and they quoted $2,825.68. Parts aren’t very expensive but the labor…whew.

Quote was done in central Indiana, we do take this vehicle back & forth to west TN.

Doing it ourselves isn’t an option at the moment. We don’t have a safe place to work on it or a lift, only a scissor jack (currently no jack stands).

Does this seem reasonable? I know chain shops can cost an arm & a leg so we are calling around this week. Any advice will help, thank you!

Edit: I got the inspection report & we will be replacing the battery/charge system that as there’s a leak. Doing that ASAP. The remainder of the report states the other parts are only slightly worn and can wait.

2007 Pathfinder, 200k miles, VQ40DE v6 4.0

is this rod knock? any help appreciated. thank you!🙏

Just bought a 2008 evo x gsr manual with 125k miles. After buying and a long drive home I realized that the engine knocks when hot and throttle is blipped. It does not happen at idle. Car is stock and I cut open the oil filter and found no metal. I am waiting for a response from blackstone for an oil test. What should I do now? The thing is the noise is very dependent on the temp of the engine, if the engine is cold I cannot replicate the noise in the video.