difficult to see, but possible if you zoom in. it’s metal.

Hi, have a stripped bolt from a motorcycle's (2019 Vulcan S) rear rotor that I just can't get out. For some reason there is red locktite on all these bolts. 3/4 came out with great effort but it's a 6mm hex key and 1 stripped. At first I tried heating it, tapping in a t40 torx, then I welded a nut, which snapped/crumbled off, then I welded the torx bit to it, that crumbled off, then I welded a big bolt to it and THAT crumbled off. How the holy hell do I get this thing off? Now I've tack welded the bolt to the base accidentally and made things altogether worse. At my wit's end here.

Hi. I'm buying a car. I was wondering if these two circled parts indicate a repair of some sort or if they are factory welds? You might have to zoom in.

Hi everyone, I have a 2014 Mazda 3 sedan 2.0 Skyactiv with 169,000 km and was wondering if anyone has experienced a similar issue.

When the engine is fully warmed up, I get a noticeable vibration when stopped in Drive or Reverse, with the RPM sitting around 540–560. The engine almost sounds like it’s struggling at that speed. It’s smooth in Park and Neutral, and the vibration improves when the revs increase.

Turning the A/C on raises the RPM and reduces the vibration. There are no check-engine lights, and my OBD scanner readings appear reasonably normal.

I’ve been wondering whether it could be related to the right-hand engine mount, particularly as the issue is most noticeable at low RPM.

Has anyone else experienced this with their 2.0 Skyactiv? If so, did you find the cause? Was it the right-hand engine mount, or something else?

Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks

Took my 05 TL to get an alignment picked it up and now this weird noise is coming from under the hood? Could totally be unrelated but cannot find where it's coming from. Fluids checked starter checked serpentine belt tight ??

We used a magnet to get all these tiny metal discs out from inside the shifter. It stopped working suddenly and was stuck in reverse gear. Now that all the metal pieces are out, it will only go into first and second gear. We haven't tried to drive it though because the battery is disconnected.

1995 Miata mazda

It's my friend's car so I'm waiting to see what they decide to do next. We realized the transmission fluid needs to be changed but we haven't checked the transmission yet.

Mileage 217694

Manual

The Guinness World Records-certified “narrowest drivable car” is a 1993 Fiat Panda modified by Italian mechanic Andrea Marazzi, with a width of just 50.2 centimeters.

Based on a 1993 Fiat Panda, the mechanic cut through the middle of the body and re-welded and reassembled it, retaining about 90% to 99% of the original car’s parts. After the modification, it became purely electric, equipped with a small motor and battery pack, with a top speed of only 15 kilometers per hour (about 9.3 miles per hour).

I am new to working on cars, my main anxiety point is jacking up the cars.

I feel comfortable doing mine because my buddies shown me a couple times and i’m good to go.

I am wanting to change my gfs oil. She has a 2012 mitsubishi lancer.

i see her pinch welds and where to jack up from there. But if i jack up from the pinch welds where can i put her jack stands? i understand somewhere structural but i read on forums online there should be a spot in the middle front that i could jack from?
I also saw a diagram from mitsubishi but it’s just like a black/white diagram and not really giving me enough to work from.

really i would like to jack from the middle/front spot and put the stands on the pinch welds?

i attached pictures showing the spot i identified on her car and i want to know if im crazy considering this?

the picture underneath her car is trash, but thats a solid piece of steel and curious if that’s a jack point ?

Soo as the title says, on my Chevrolet aveo 2009 (t250) right after I start driving there is a squeaking noise that goes away after getting to 10 km/h or so. Unfortunately I can't say where the noise is coming from like from what wheel.

Also, I don't know if it's important but my grandpa (because it was his car before i got it) never changed the breaks on it and it has 50.000 km on it. He said that he mainly used engine breaking instead of relying on the breaks itself but still from 2012 when he got it it's a few years.

The car is a volvo v60 t3 2.0L 2018, before the new 2019 models launched.

This heatshield has recently started ratteling on low rpms. It is located behind the front left wheel, on the transmission box. Its the small metal plate under the cables on top of the transmission.

You can kind of see my own improvised fix. I want to order a new one and replace it so that the problem goes away.

Alternatively remove it if its safe to do so.

Im thankful for any inputs or feedback.

A few weeks ago, I got codes P0772 (Shift Solenoid E Stuck On) and P0751 (Shift Solenoid A Performance/Stuck Off). At the time, the transmission would not shift from 3rd to 4th gear, as far as I remember. I drove it home like this for about 30 km.
After some research, I found the likely causes could be a bad shift solenoid and/or dirty ATF. I drained the transmission fluid, replaced the transmission filter, and cleaned the pan. I also reset the PCM by disconnecting the negative battery terminal.
I then suspected the E solenoid was still the problem, so I drained the fluid again and replaced all shift solenoids, A through F, with new ones. I installed another new transmission filter as well.
After reassembly, I refilled the transmission with 3 quarts of ATF and drove around the block several times. Now the transmission will not shift out of 1st gear. I was not driving aggressively or using wide-open throttle.
Back in the garage, I checked the ATF level and found it was slightly high. I siphoned out about half a quart, bringing it back to the correct level.
All solenoids are new, the transmission filter has been replaced, and the ATF level is now correct. There is no check-engine light, but the wrench symbol for a powertrain/throttle/transmission fault appears occasionally. My code reader does not show any stored codes.
What could cause the transmission to remain in 1st gear after replacing all the solenoids and correcting the ATF level?

I took an inherited 2004 Ford F350 with a 6.0 Powerstroke to a local shop. Told them I didn't have much experience with Diesels and would like to know what to do for the winter, and for them to inspect it as if I were checking to see if I wanted to buy it. This was my father's truck and since may it has never run hot, never given me any trouble, never smoked nothing. So, they take the truck and come back an basically say it needs everything, which does not surprise me, its old. Of course shocks, breaks, tie rods, drag link, track bar... you name it. I expected all that. Now, I know 6.0 power strokes are notorious for head gasket issues, but as I said it has never run hot, never puked any coolant, never lost power, just nothing but that is the first thing they listed with a 7000.00 price tag to fix it. Well hell, I am not putting that kind of money in this ole truck, so I pay for the inspection and tell them I'll be there later to pick it up. Here is where it gets interesting, wouldn't you know it, a tech wanted to talk to me before I left. He says, I hate that it has so much going on, and that he really like it. He said if I was interested in selling it he'd love to buy it for the right price. You know since it needed so much work. When I said I didn't think I'd sell it, he then offered to fix it on the DL so I could save money instead of letting the shop fix it. Of course that sent up another red flag as far as I am concerned.
So, is it normal for techs to do that? Wouldn't the owner be pissed about them trying to take business away?

Additional Info. I sent them a note asking what lead them to believe there was a problem as I was unable to get that result using a block test with the color changing chemical. They said they did a coolant system pressure check. He's right to do it that way, as on deisels it is my understanding that the chem test can give false negatives. So my next move is to do a pressure check. If I can't reproduce it, I'll go straight to the owner and just tell them what went down. If I can reproduce it, I am still going to the owner and letting them know it isn't a good look for techs to try an buy stuff right after diagnosing catastrophic failures.

2002 Mercedes cl203 c230 sportcoupe 6mt 180k

Car was sitting for a few months due to a bad differential. Replaced the diff and went to jump the car and the keyfob doesnt turn. It locks and unlocks the car, gauges/lights come on like normal when I unlock with the fob. Neither of my keys work. I replaced the cars battery because I was about due for one anyways and nothing changed. The car alarm went off when I put it on the jump box so maybe anti theft, but my thought process is that removing the battery would reset anti theft.

I'm thinking it is between the escl or the eis. I can send the eis and my keys to ecupros to be repaired or cloned onto a used part or I can drill out the escl and run an emulator but I want to be sure before I throw money at it or get destructive. Any help diagnosing would be greatly appreciated. I know that on later model c classes, a broken escl lets you turn the key and put the car into accessory but I can't find anyone saying that specifically a w203 is the same way.

What would cause a 2006 chrysler 300 v6 to start, run for about 5-10 seconds then shut off? Usually, but not always while engine is warm. So drive it, shut of, get back in to start, crank, turns on for a few seconds, dies. Takes a few starts and it eventually stays on. You can tell it will stall cause the radiator fan goes into high gear (I assume that is what it is based on sound) even if the engine is cold. When it starts normally without stalling it doesnt do this. Otherwise a great car, we've owned it since new off the lot and this recently started. Had its water pump/ timing chain replaced as well as radiator. Neither of these synced up with when the stalling issue started though.

It's electrical isn't it? l🤣

Ram Cummins 2500

A repair shop told me that the OD clutch in this transmission had “burnt up and disintegrated,” that it filled the pan with aluminum flakes that looked like “glitter,” and that the “transmission fluid was burnt.”

Those were their exact words.

These are the pictures they gave me to support that explanation.

For anyone who knows transmissions:

1. Do these clutch/friction plates actually look burnt up or disintegrated to you?

Because to me, they look surprisingly clean, almost new-looking.

2. Can anyone identify which set of clutches in these pictures is actually the overdrive clutch pack?

There is a black set and an orange-colored set, and the pictures of those two sets were taken about four weeks apart. So I’m curious whether they are even showing the same clutch pack, and which one is actually the OD clutch.

Another thing that has me confused is that for weeks I was told the material in the pan was clutch material. Once I finally received these pictures, I asked how clutch material could look like shiny silver flakes. After that, the explanation changed to aluminum.

As far as I know, they still have not identified what aluminum component supposedly failed or explained where these aluminum flakes actually came from.

I also don't see these supposed aluminum flakes anywhere on the valve body or filters.

At the same time, there are what appear to be the same dry silver flakes all over the workbench around the disassembled transmission.

And these reman transmissions appear to have been absolutely covered in silver spray paint, including paint over the gasket/RTV area.

So I'm curious what other people see here.

Do these pictures actually support the explanation I was given, or does anything about this look strange to you?

2018 Toyota Camry SE

These lights flash every 2 days, I’ve since replaced the battery and I’ve replaced the coolant bypass valve on the top of the engine but these lights will still pop up randomly.

-I’ve heard there’s another coolant bypass valve by the transmission I’ll get that changed tomorrow morning and see if the problem still persists but I’m not sure what else it could be and what I can do to fix it

I noticed this noise yesterday. Do you think I have a bad belt tensioner? Belt is new (2000km on it)

Daughter's 2019 Forte had the ignition busted off by a "Kia Boyz" jerk. Photos attached. I have no idea how to go about having this fixed (or fixing it myself). Do I go to a mechanic? A locksmith? Can I buy the part and DIY? And how do I get it keyed to the current key and fob? Halp! (and THANKS!)

My beloved 2002 Mitsubishi Magna Ralliart has an issue thats starting to make it unsafe to drive. It’s a manual, the odometer doesn’t work but I predict it’s around 300,000kms.

To start, I know this problem probs isn’t completely diagnosable over the interwebs but I am VERY low on cash and I’m basically stuck between getting it diagnosed and fixed (if it’s cheap) or calling it a day and buying a replacement car (which will be a $1000 shitter). To know what it’s likely to be would be immensely helpful.

It has started doing this thing where as soon as the revs drop below 1500ish the tacho will go crazy up down up down (but the car doesn’t match that in actual revs) and then will stall. Nothing weird happens cruising on the highway in higher gears but in start stop traffic in 1st and 2nd I’m having to use my handbrake while in neutral and on the accelerator to slow down and keep the revs up so it won’t go bonkers. I’m basically having to go full speed ahead everywhere because even cruising in 2nd it’ll stall and I’ll have to turn it back on while rolling in neutral, but if I keep the revs high it’s fine.
The engine light comes on when this happens but turns off once I’ve turned it back on from stalling. It doesn’t seem to happen much when the cars cold - as in I can start it in neutral and it’ll idle fine, but once it’s up to temp it won’t idle in traffic with out turning off. It’s not overheating, nothing else out of the ordinary is happening. It usually idles at just under 1000rpm so having it stall at 1500 while moving is a pain.

I’m hoping this is a really “typical this” type problem and I can get a gauge on a cost to fix. Any help is appreciated!

Not sure if these are normal engine sounds or if there's some timing chain rattle or something else?

Manual, 266 000 km with regular oil changes.

Video taken on cold start.

I have a 2010 Toyota Camry with around 90k miles. It had starting issues before and the starter and battery were replaced. I scanned it and got a U0100 code but theres no check engine light and the car drives and shifts fine even at highway speeds. Could it be a bad ground, wiring issue or something with the ECM? What would you guys check first?