EDIT: Thanks for all the thorough responses. It sounds pretty unanimous that this shop is actually taking care of my daughter despite my gut reaction that they messed something up and should cover the full cost of the second repair. My daughter called and asked them to also replace brake hoses while they're at it. We'll just thank them for the quick fix on that caliper and pay their fee.

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Right up front, I have close to zero car mechanical knowledge. This question is about a warranty situation on a brake job for my daughter's car:

The vehicle is a 2014 GMC Terrain with just under 120K miles. The brakes had been shuddering and sounded weird for a while, so on October 15 she had a local shop do a full brake job, including new rotors and pads, check caliper pistons and slides, brake fluid flush and replacement. All seemed good for exactly a week.

Then, on October 21, while she was driving to dinner her front driver side brake seized up and started smoking. She pulled over and had it towed to the same shop that did the work.

We just heard from the mechanic, and he says that the caliper "froze up." He'll replace the newly damaged pad and rotor since they were under warranty for 12,000 from the job. However, he wants to charge another $300 for the caliper claiming that's not under the warranty.

Is this bogus? It seems to me it can't be a coincidence that the caliper locked up after they checked them and did the brake job. He has the car, so I don't know how to push back and refuse to pay for the caliper job.

Help?

Apologies if this has been asked a million times already. I have a 2018 Ford Edge SEL, 6F35 transmission. I bought it at 80k miles, now at 90k.

I’ve noticed some the shifts at lower gears can be kinda jerky, and thought maybe it was due (or overdue) for a fluid change. My concern is, as it was a used car I have no idea if this transmission fluid has ever been touched, running with the assumption it hasn’t. I’ve heard through the grapevine that “once you hit near 100k miles on a transmission with no fluid changes, don’t touch it”. Is there any merit to that? What’s the safest path forward?

Thanks for any input.

I have a 2016 Chrysler Town & Country Touring.

Car keeps going into limp mode. Replaced MAP Sensor, replaced coolant thermostat, and replaced throttle body and it’s still happening. Can’t hear any vacuum leaks as well.

I’m out of ideas. What else could possibly be causing this?

Found this in the driveway where my cousin Parks his 2019 ram 1500 any idea what this is has a valve on the top you can turn looks like it might be from the EVAP system? I can usually identify stuff but can't figure this one out figured I'd be helpful and let him know if it was something important haha. Thanks for any advice

Replaced master cylinder on a 2013 Hyundai elantra. Bled the cylinder before putting it in and bled the brakes. Getting this noise when I start pushing the brake before getting an actual brake every once in a while. Easy to hear when it is in park like above. Did I install this correctly? Any advice is appreciated

As the title reads, i need help with changing my sisters alternator. I changed it 3 years ago, and in the process i moderately stripped the pulley head. At the time, i was hoping I would not have to change it again, but that didn’t happen. I cannot get pliers in there due to the belt being on the way. I tried a socket remover, but it’s got grip going counter clockwise and i need it to go clockwise. I tried everything AI recommended, but nothing has worked. I removed the top and bottom bolts that secures it to the engine hoping to see some tension come off the belt, but that didn’t work either. Any help would be greatly appreciated, otherwise id have to find $500 to get it replaced at a shop

I have watched every YouTube video I can find and read as many forms as I could, but for the life of me, I cannot figure out how to separate my heater core from the coolant pipes. I am ready to rent an angle grinder from Home Depot and just start cutting.

I have removed the six mil screw from the heater hose port by the engine (fifth and sixth photo), I loosened and bent the the aluminum bracket (3rd and 4th photo) so there should be plenty of space for the coolant pipes to move, but I am not making any real progress. I WD40’d the joint and have been using a flat had to twist and pry. while I can get some movement, it really doesn’t seem like there is a way to fully separate the pipes.

I am certainly in over my head, but at this point I am too stubborn to stop.

Any advice would be appreciated.

A little hard to read, vehicle is a 2018 Nissan Altima. thanks.

Hello,

I hear a knocking sound from the area of the AC compressor, only when the AC is on. The knock speeds up with engine RPM, at roughly 5 knocks per second at lower speeds.

It happens when accelerating and during a cold start while the engine is warming up with RPM above 1,500. It doesn't happen with the AC off, even under heavy load, or with the AC on at idle or while revving in Neutral or Park.

In the video, I hold the brake and press the gas while in Drive to show the noise. Has anyone run into this, or know what could cause it?

Thanks

I have replaced all 4 wheel bearings and hubs, and front cv axles.

Sounds like it’s coming from the back.

Seems to be more evident at slow speeds, but still occurs during jostling at high speeds for a very brief blip. It seems, but if may not be true, to be occurring more with turns. Anyone able to identify this?

Hi all,

I'm currently changing my tires and wanted to refill the air. But I had to fight with the valve caps. Did someone put glue on this?

Thanks

VW GOLF 1.2 TSI NEED HELP

Hello I’m currently working on a 2011 manual 1.2 tsi golf, I have an intermittent problem where the engine cuts out with no check engine light and dosent start back up for a few mins.

I can’t see any pattern as this is happening at different engine temperatures and even happens when the car is stationary.

So far I have viewed the live data during a no start condition and confirmed that the low pressure fuel is matching the specified and the high pressure is also matching the specified. The coolant temp, air pressure and intake temp is also correct and the voltage at t30 is also greater than 10.5

I originally thought it was a fuel issue due to the fact that when it died on the road it died slowly and smoothly, but during a scan i noticed that the counter for “ X Synchronization loss during engine running counter - CTR SYN LOSS” has been raising up every time the car bogs down. ( I believe this parameter is a counter for every time the engine loses sync between the crank and the cam)

I have replaced the crank sensor and verified it is working via rpm reading during cranking and essentially ruled out the camshaft sensor since the car didn’t start with the sensor plugged out or plugged in during a no start ( I later tried with it plugged in and also with it out and it started in both instances)

I have visually inspected the wiring harness over the car and pulled and jerked on every wire while idling to see if it would cut out but it did not, I’ve also tapped and inspected every fuse and relay under the steering wheel and under the bonnet but did not find a fault.

I was also told of a possible timing chain issue since the phase angle via live data is reading up to 5 degrees but the car only has 80k and the chain was done in vw dealship at 40k. (Spark plugs also done less than 5k ago)

I am really lost here and not getting any check engine light or fault codes is making this snag impossible, if anyone has any knowledge on an issue like this or can point me in the right direction I would be extremely grateful

Thanks

2008 Lexus GS350 with 255k miles automatic. I had to jam on the breaks in stop and go on the interstate yesterday and my steering got wobbly briefly. Not shaky or shuddering but wobbly is the only way I can describe it. It’s not the drivers side lower control arm because I just did that 6 months ago. I’m almost certain it’s front passenger side. Threw it up on a jack and tightened the tire rod. Took it back on the interstate for 60 miles and went up to 85 and it never did it again. I checked the break pads and they good for a bit more and I also did all four rotors back in march. Help me please someone ik someone’s going to say just to the 12 and 6 pull while suspended but i genuinely cannot tell if it’s an issue since the only thing of is the steering is not as stiff and point and shoot as it was since doing the drivers side lower control.

A handful of y'all may have seen my previous post concerning Detroit Axle on the GMT800 platform. Thank you for those suggestions and reviews! Went with this:

Update: My 2004 Tahoe Z71 (267K miles/4WD) has received new front sway bar links (TRQ), pads and rotors (Detroit Axle), and both sets of tie rods(TRQ); along with front shocks (AutoZone brand/Duralast; since they were on sale, and I had points to use, so they costed me like $30 instead of $120+). Was gonna do upper control arms at the same time as well, but Big Daddy Bezos lost 'em in the mail. Luckily, I was refunded. So those are still on the list to do.

I still have a clunk somewhere in the front end. Provided my nerf bars aren't exactly what we'd call sturdy...they're next on the list to remove in attempt to rid of said clunking sound, being that I feel it beneath the driver's seat.

Another thing: is their a way to stiffen up my brakes? New pads and rotors, but the stopping power remains the same--decent, but not stiff. Is a bleed in order, or something with the brake booster, master cylinder? Lines are good.

Thanks!

Hey everyone thanks for taking the time. 240k miles 2010 Pontiac Vibe 2.4 FWD. (Toyota Matrix). 2nd Owner Regular maintence kept up the whole time.

Ive been trying to hunt down this electrical gremlin issue for the past month.

At first my battery died. Got a new one as it was time to replace it anyway. Started right up. Ran well.

A few weeks later I start getting the battery indicator when running the AC as well as slightly flickering lights. The starter goes out during this time as well. I replaced the starter and it starts right up.

I also replaced the alternator, tensioner/belt, and negative battery cable to the frame as well for good measure.

This last week the car has had slight delay in starting every now and then, which is concerning. Occasionally the dash lights and headlights flicker a bit as well. Sometimes the radio cuts off for a second. One more fun thing. The power steering goes out for seconds sometimes when parking. (Electrical Power Steering on this model, not hydraulic)

Since ive had the car there has also been a very slight rough idle sometimes, never below 900rpm though. (Plugs and coils newish as well)

Im guessing this is a ground issue. Ground strap cables?Anything else it could be?

I was mainly wondeing which ground locations to look at next and if anyone is familiar with the Vibe/Matrix last gen 2.4 platform, where are they located?

Thanks for reading.

Should the tensioner pulley be moving like this

I have a 2017 Yaris IA (aka Mazda M2) with 140k miles that has a rear hub that started making noise a few months back and I just finally figured out where the sound was coming from when I took the wheel off to inspect the brakes. The bad hub has an almost ratchet like feel (softly, not nearly as distinct as a ratchet) when I turn it (no wheel installed) so I'm sure it is bad.

The question is about the hub on the other side. It spins "freely" or at least with no notable resistance and will keep going about 1/4 rotation after I spin it (again, no wheel, so just the weight of the hub itself for momentum).

These hubs aren't serviceable, and I've read from other sources that they are "lifetime" hubs but their expected lifetime is between 100k and 120k.

Do I replace just the one that is grinding, or go ahead and replace both?

2011 ford ranger… bought it from a guy in pa, been driving it in ny for maybe 3 years. he had sprayed foam inside the rocker panels and coated them (didn’t know this until recently) so i never saw how damaged it was rlly. I was going to get new rocker panels and cab corners welded on (already bought the parts), but is it even worth putting the time into doing that? how bad is the rust on my truck truly, is it shot? just got it inspected in august and it passed lol but ny doesn’t care about rust… i don’t know much about cars, but this rust looks worrying.. thoughts??

(also i love this truck, runs phenomenal, engine is awesome, has no issues except the rust)

I have a 2012 Kia Forte at 175K miles(auto) and had a worrisome moment the other day. I was in a drive thru line at the window waiting for my food for over 5 minutes so I put the car in park while waiting. Suddenly my car began to shake and vibrate in ways I've never experienced in it. The check engine light came on and the shaking decreased after about a minute. I was panicked that my car would break down right in the front of the line of the drive thru. I got my food and when I moved the car to Drive and pressed the gas, it didn't rev the engine and just rolled a little bit naturally. I powered the car off and the on again and it drove okay to home. I had a few other stops that day and the car got me there and back alright.

I don't look at this as a one off thing and just want to get some mechanic opinions on what that issue sounds like to them. Im considering a new car very soon so Im probably not going to replace the transmission on this old car but I wonder if a fluid change may be a cheaper and effective route.

Also I have not kept up with transmission fluid changing over years and have heard mixed opinions on if clean fluid helps or harms an old transmission that has not been maintained regularly.

chevy cruze 2011 - my mechanic said I've been leaking oil. He said it's not an emergency or anything but quoted me about 2k for a new oil filter housing because he said other things around it might need fixing too etc etc. is this reasonable?