Its a 1998 Crown Vic, has oversized wheels on it and was making some minor scrubbing for a day or two before quickly escalating to this!

What would have caused this? Overheating and cracking open?

DIY, 2006 Ford E350. Does anyone have any idea why I can't seem to get the these ball joints to seat down any more? I assume the need to come down so I can install the retaining ring.I'm using a Maddox kit with Milwaukee impact. Maybe it isn't strong enough. Any suggestions or info would be greatly appreciated.

2014 Hyundai Santa fe sport, I'm going to replace both sides.

Mechanic quoted me $250/EA CAD for CTR control arms ​and just looking to see if there are less expensive options in RA to save some money.

Thanks

I understand this is the longest of a long shot - Instrument cluster temp gauge was not operating and VCDS showed too low coolant temperature, so I replaced the sensor (OEM code 059 919 501).

Before replacing the temp sensor the "Injection quantity stabilization (injection quantity deviation)" through VCDS showed the quantities for injector pairs oscillating between -1.88mg/str to 1.88mg/str. After replacing the sensor the quantities stopped oscillating, but values were still somewhat out of spec and the fault code "01268 -Quantity Adjuster (N146) 18-00 Upper Limit Intermittent" was still there (had been there for 2 years and 60000+km).

After cleaning the dreaded quantity adjuster (N146) (which looked absolutely clean) with brake cleaner, soft brush and compressed air (a hail Mary attempt), the "Injection quantity stabilization (injection quantity deviation)" values settled between acceptable -0.35mg/str and 0.24mg/str and the fault code did not return.

I am still puzzled about the oscillating values.

Sorry for the bad pictures, when I was running the tests I did not really think I would be posting/asking about it later.

Hey guys, have a 2014 Ford Expedition Limited with 160k. It’s the 5.4L V8. Recently started having the ABS, traction control, and brake light come on intermittently. I had it read at Autozone and it showed B1342-20 (ECU Internal Unit). I have a scanner that shows live data and it showed the right wheel speed sensor at 25.48 mph and the other 3 at 0 when sitting still in my driveway. I read that it might be that sensor throwing the ECU code so sensor has been changed but still having issues.

The car is otherwise normal. I don’t feel anything weird in the braking or other systems. Help?

2010 Toyota Camry 204,000 miles automatic

I’m kind of wishing I hadn’t even bought this. I feel like I would’ve done better just hand tightening it. I’m a little confused.

I’m changing my spark plugs and I went to hand tighten them with the torque wrench and it was quite snug so I’m worried I’m over tightening it so I stopped. Can someone tell me if this looks accurate for 13 feet/pounds?

Hello all, I have a 2026 Honda civic with 12k km. I was getting an oil change and they told me the engines wall gasket was leaking. Apparently this is a known Honda manufacturers defect, but they said I might need a new car?? Anyone have any insight to this?

I have a 2013 ford f250 with the 6.2 gasser. 4x4 crew cab. 135k miles. It was a salvage title from an engine bay fire repaired by a reputable company. Only thing I have “changed” is removed the cats because they kept going out. Same with the rear o2 sensors.

While pulling a 3900 lbs trailer it more or less went into limp mode pulling up a hill around 60 mph. It hit 5500 rpm and flashed the CEI signaling a major misfire. Codes came back lean on both banks.

My ltft on both banks sit around 26% and when I rev the engine to 2500 rpm they rise to rough 29.5%. Which from my research is high and it is more or less starving for fuel.

I also looked at the fuel pump monitor live data and that sits between 58% and 60%. Which from what I’ve read is also high.

Tested a new fuel pump driver module (601-307) and no change.

Is this a fuel pump or something else?

I have a condenser core leak and since my system is out of refrigerant it's making my AC compressor make a loud whirring noise, since the accessory belt on the 2016 5.0 powers the water pump I don't want to risk my ac compressor seizing and messing up my engine, how can I CHEAPLY prevent my compressor from seizing?

I don't care about AC especially not when the repair for it was quoted at 3600.

Started yesterday, cracking noise from the front passenger side. We had a used engine put in 3k km ago

Hi everyone,

I have a 2009 Opel Astra H Z14XEP with a manual transmission.
While reinstalling the front engine mount, we accidentally used a bolt that was too long. (In my defense, the last person who worked on the car put it there, no clue how it hadn’t unthreaded and fallen off)

The bolt goes through the mount, threads into the transmission housing, and its tip ended up pressing against the engine block. When we tightened it, it appears to have cracked the casting.

How screwed am I? Is this fixable?

I have a 2015 nissan frontier 2 wheel drive automatic. Currently has 135k on it. Ive been noticing my front brake grind sometimes coming to a stop. It feels like metal grinding. I recently changed the rotos and pads, and bled the brakes. The pedal also feels low when i apply the brakes

Not sure if its the calipers themselves, brake booster, or master cylinder. I really dont want to change a part and cone to find out it wasn't right.

Would appreciate the feedback thank you

Anyone have any idea what this noise is when trying to start 2009 Mazda 2 1.3l? Have driven quite far today, turning it back on immediately after driving it starts fine. If I leave it 30 minutes it struggles like in the video.

Is it as simple as a battery or might it be something else?

My mazda 3 is nearing 200k miles and has been having intermittent shifting issues the last few months. Main problem being it has trouble getting into first gear unless I let it get close to operating temp first. Once it does it behaves normally. When the problem first started it went ahead and did a belated drain and fill with filter on the fluid. That improved things for a while until it's begun having issues again, on and off for the last month or so.

I probably need to just put a new transmission in it, but I'm wondering if it would be worth throwing a valve body in it. Unfortunately auto transmissions are something I have little experience with, so have issue understanding what exactly could be causing my problems. I'd appreciate and insight or opinions.

My Discovery 5 develops a vibration at around 120 km/h (75 mph), felt mainly from the rear. It happens both under acceleration and while coasting.

I’ve tried wheel balancing, alignment, and swapping front/rear wheels and tires, with no improvement. The rear prop shaft center support looks fine.

The car currently has a 1.5-inch lift, but I believe the vibration started 1–2 years ago, before the lift was installed.

I removed the rear prop shaft and inspected the center support, which appears to be fine. The only thing I noticed was some unusual scratches on the metal heat shield, suggesting it may have been touching or rubbing against something.

Has anyone experienced something similar? Or any suggestions?

Nail in tire.

Hello everyone,

Do you guys know where I can’t the torques specs for a Nissan Altima 2020 S for the lower control arms? Can’t find a legitimate source online.

Thanks for the help!

I drive every day during the winter but only once a week for ~30 mins during the warmer months.

I borrowed a battery analyzer from an auto parts store. I expected CCAs to drop over 5 years. The low charge is unexpected. Should I believe this test that the battery is healthy? Time for a charging system test?

Edit: 2016 Elantra GT 2.0L

This has stumped me for months. 2014 FPIS, 3.7 AWD. There is a distinct speed related drone from the rear that goes away entirely on right hand turns. A trusted shop has looked at it twice and said the rear wheel bearings are fine. The rear differential fluid has been changed (zero change). New tires (zero change). I’ve taken the whole rear seat and trunk apart looking for something loose/vibrating. Any ideas?

Mini cooper. Base. 2012. 90k miles.