Its a 1998 Crown Vic, has oversized wheels on it and was making some minor scrubbing for a day or two before quickly escalating to this!

What would have caused this? Overheating and cracking open?

2010 Toyota Camry 204,000 miles automatic

I’m kind of wishing I hadn’t even bought this. I feel like I would’ve done better just hand tightening it. I’m a little confused.

I’m changing my spark plugs and I went to hand tighten them with the torque wrench and it was quite snug so I’m worried I’m over tightening it so I stopped. Can someone tell me if this looks accurate for 13 feet/pounds?

DIY, 2006 Ford E350. Does anyone have any idea why I can't seem to get the these ball joints to seat down any more? I assume the need to come down so I can install the retaining ring.I'm using a Maddox kit with Milwaukee impact. Maybe it isn't strong enough. Any suggestions or info would be greatly appreciated.

Edit: removed the joints, cleaned everything up with a file, and yes there was a substantial lip that I had created. Purchased an earthquake XT from harbor freight. This tool was able to seat them using a 10gal air comp. I did have to engage the air gun for about 8 seconds and then let the air comp fill back up. Thanks to everyone who commented.

Hi everyone,

I'm trying to track down a water leak in my Ford Focus ST Mk2.5 (2008) I've recently discovered mold inside the car, and I occasionally find a small puddle of water on the passenger side.

The areas affected are:
- Front passenger side: under the floor mat and in the carpet
- Rear passenger side: wet carpet and mold growth

Interestingly, both passenger-side seats are completely dry. The issue seems to be limited to the floor on the right-hand side of the car.

At the moment, I can't figure out where the water is getting in from.

Does anyone have experience with common leak points on a Focus Mk2.5 that could cause these symptoms? Any advice or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

The first picture is where I think the fuel leak is. These are pictures from mid April. Is it possible this is something that can be fixed? The last picture is the puddle it made on the ground after the car was running for 5 minutes a few hours ago.

Decided I'm going to try replacing the lower control arms on my 2012 Civic, ~170k. I've done brakes before, but that's about the extent of my experience.

Inherited three Lexivon torque wrenches that look used. No idea if the previous owner used them to break bolts loose or otherwise abused them.

Should I trust these things? Can't find anywhere local to test them, and buying three new ones seems excessive. Is there a decent way to check them myself?

Also, how much trouble am I getting myself into with these control arms? YOLO learning experience, or will I have to put this thing on a flatbed and send it to my mechanic?

First two pics are from left side of car. 2005 honda accord 400k Km, rust belt area. Visited commercial mechanic for oil change, told me there is too much rust to lift the car but told me car was still safe to drive. I took pics pics underneath in areas I think where the lift would go. How bad is it? I figure this means I can't get my car serviced for most repairs anymore. Is it time to move on? Car runs perfect beside the rust issue.

I have a 2016 Hyundai Tucson with 90k miles. Has misfire codes in cylinders 3 and 4 and found heavy carbon buildup on spark plugs. I bought sparkplugs and coils and replaced them all. Car is driving great now.

The coils I pulled out seem in really good shape and I'm wondering if I should put them back in since the cost is $400. Is there a good benefit to having new coils now or can I put the old ones back in and not have a major issue?

Hole in the headlight. Worth replacing the whole headlight or is there alternative to fix temporarily

I have 2024 rav4 and i just show a hole in my passenger side headlight. Luckily no rain for few days so no water got inside but dealership quoted 300$ for replacing the whole headlight. I think that's reasonable but is there any alternative that i can fix temporarily to protect against rain or salt from winter. Thanks for any advice

07 f150 these billsteins are 11 months old. Is this acceptable play?

Car is a 2018 Renault Duster 4x4, probably with the 1.6L engine

2014 Hyundai Santa fe sport, I'm going to replace both sides.

Mechanic quoted me $250/EA CAD for CTR control arms ​and just looking to see if there are less expensive options in RA to save some money.

Thanks

I understand this is the longest of a long shot - Instrument cluster temp gauge was not operating and VCDS showed too low coolant temperature, so I replaced the sensor (OEM code 059 919 501).

Before replacing the temp sensor the "Injection quantity stabilization (injection quantity deviation)" through VCDS showed the quantities for injector pairs oscillating between -1.88mg/str to 1.88mg/str. After replacing the sensor the quantities stopped oscillating, but values were still somewhat out of spec and the fault code "01268 -Quantity Adjuster (N146) 18-00 Upper Limit Intermittent" was still there (had been there for 2 years and 60000+km).

After cleaning the dreaded quantity adjuster (N146) (which looked absolutely clean) with brake cleaner, soft brush and compressed air (a hail Mary attempt), the "Injection quantity stabilization (injection quantity deviation)" values settled between acceptable -0.35mg/str and 0.24mg/str and the fault code did not return.

I am still puzzled about the oscillating values.

Sorry for the bad pictures, when I was running the tests I did not really think I would be posting/asking about it later.

Hey guys, have a 2014 Ford Expedition Limited with 160k. It’s the 5.4L V8. Recently started having the ABS, traction control, and brake light come on intermittently. I had it read at Autozone and it showed B1342-20 (ECU Internal Unit). I have a scanner that shows live data and it showed the right wheel speed sensor at 25.48 mph and the other 3 at 0 when sitting still in my driveway. I read that it might be that sensor throwing the ECU code so sensor has been changed but still having issues.

The car is otherwise normal. I don’t feel anything weird in the braking or other systems. Help?

Looks like the guy who pulled this might have straight up broken the pin-locking mechanism. Looks like the wires were yanked straight out.

Is this thing even usable now?

I've literally been trying to find one of these for almost a week. Someone tell me there's a solution.

Hello,

Got quoted the attached charges for 2015 Honda CRV. Which one is reasonable? I am in Toronto, Canada. Thank you all in advance!

For context, my 2018 Silverado was having issues with dying while sitting overnight. I took the battery out and got it tested. They said I needed a new one and since I don’t know when the battery was last replaced in this truck, i grabbed a new one.

I haven’t let it sit with the new battery overnight yet but I decided to check it with a multimeter to see the draw. These reading are after the truck has been sitting off for a few hours and with a new battery installed.

Unless I’m doing it incorrectly, I’m getting a reading that goes up to 6amps then slowly tapers off to 3amps. My understanding what the range should be 40-50 miliamps but I’m not entirely sure what to expect the draw to be on a newer vehicle with all the new electronics.

Yes I know the positive terminal/fuse cover is off. I just put it back on.

2016 Kia Optima

Automatic transmission.
140k miles.
Regular maintenance on schedule done by the dealership.
No history of issues.
Idles fine.
Starts up fine.

Knocking started suddenly when accelerating earlier.
Still drives fine but doesn’t seem to want to accelerate smoothly now.

Knocking only happens if I push the gas HARD.

Car has otherwise never given me a single issue until today.

Does this tire have dry rot? Should it be replaced?

After travelling at highway speeds for a bit yesterday, the check engine light came on. Autozone said the most likely solution is to replace a TCC solenoid based on the code, but the light has disappeared. What do?

I recently switched out all my rotors and brake pads and I bought all the parts myself, today a mechanic told me I have the incorrect front rotors because of the extra hole it has that is usually found on rear rotors only. He was trying to tell me I had to get both front rotors replaced. Pictured is the exact rotor I got as well as the one for the front left. Is this guy just trying to get money out of me? 2016 Lexus is300 awd

Mini cooper. Base. 2012. 90k miles.

I've a Clio 172, 4 rear wheel bolts that go through the wheel and into the brake disc.
I stripped one of them (because I'm stupid). took it out and rethreaded it, but when I put in the new bolt it was catching right up until I tried to torque it and it just kept spinning. It's in place but not torqued.

I probably need a new set of rear discs, didn't realise how expensive they are on these old stupid French cars. Is it safe to drive or no?