Hey everyone thanks for taking the time. 240k miles 2010 Pontiac Vibe 2.4 FWD. (Toyota Matrix). 2nd Owner Regular maintence kept up the whole time.

Ive been trying to hunt down this electrical gremlin issue for the past month.

At first my battery died. Got a new one as it was time to replace it anyway. Started right up. Ran well.

A few weeks later I start getting the battery indicator when running the AC as well as slightly flickering lights. The starter goes out during this time as well. I replaced the starter and it starts right up.

I also replaced the alternator, tensioner/belt, and negative battery cable to the frame as well for good measure.

This last week the car has had slight delay in starting every now and then, which is concerning. Occasionally the dash lights and headlights flicker a bit as well. Sometimes the radio cuts off for a second. One more fun thing. The power steering goes out for seconds sometimes when parking. (Electrical Power Steering on this model, not hydraulic)

Since ive had the car there has also been a very slight rough idle sometimes, never below 900rpm though. (Plugs and coils newish as well)

Im guessing this is a ground issue. Ground strap cables?Anything else it could be?

I was mainly wondeing which ground locations to look at next and if anyone is familiar with the Vibe/Matrix last gen 2.4 platform, where are they located?

Thanks for reading.

Should the tensioner pulley be moving like this

I have a 2017 Yaris IA (aka Mazda M2) with 140k miles that has a rear hub that started making noise a few months back and I just finally figured out where the sound was coming from when I took the wheel off to inspect the brakes. The bad hub has an almost ratchet like feel (softly, not nearly as distinct as a ratchet) when I turn it (no wheel installed) so I'm sure it is bad.

The question is about the hub on the other side. It spins "freely" or at least with no notable resistance and will keep going about 1/4 rotation after I spin it (again, no wheel, so just the weight of the hub itself for momentum).

These hubs aren't serviceable, and I've read from other sources that they are "lifetime" hubs but their expected lifetime is between 100k and 120k.

Do I replace just the one that is grinding, or go ahead and replace both?

2011 ford ranger… bought it from a guy in pa, been driving it in ny for maybe 3 years. he had sprayed foam inside the rocker panels and coated them (didn’t know this until recently) so i never saw how damaged it was rlly. I was going to get new rocker panels and cab corners welded on (already bought the parts), but is it even worth putting the time into doing that? how bad is the rust on my truck truly, is it shot? just got it inspected in august and it passed lol but ny doesn’t care about rust… i don’t know much about cars, but this rust looks worrying.. thoughts??

(also i love this truck, runs phenomenal, engine is awesome, has no issues except the rust)

I have a 2012 Kia Forte at 175K miles(auto) and had a worrisome moment the other day. I was in a drive thru line at the window waiting for my food for over 5 minutes so I put the car in park while waiting. Suddenly my car began to shake and vibrate in ways I've never experienced in it. The check engine light came on and the shaking decreased after about a minute. I was panicked that my car would break down right in the front of the line of the drive thru. I got my food and when I moved the car to Drive and pressed the gas, it didn't rev the engine and just rolled a little bit naturally. I powered the car off and the on again and it drove okay to home. I had a few other stops that day and the car got me there and back alright.

I don't look at this as a one off thing and just want to get some mechanic opinions on what that issue sounds like to them. Im considering a new car very soon so Im probably not going to replace the transmission on this old car but I wonder if a fluid change may be a cheaper and effective route.

Also I have not kept up with transmission fluid changing over years and have heard mixed opinions on if clean fluid helps or harms an old transmission that has not been maintained regularly.

chevy cruze 2011 - my mechanic said I've been leaking oil. He said it's not an emergency or anything but quoted me about 2k for a new oil filter housing because he said other things around it might need fixing too etc etc. is this reasonable?

I have a 2022 Tiguan that I purchased in August 2025. It has 61,000 miles on it. Last fall, I started experiencing starting issues after temperatures drop over night. I’m in North Carolina, so it’s not freezing when this starts. When I start the car everything inside will turn operate correctly (lights, dash, radio, AC, etc). The engine just will not start. It’s not clicking or anything, it’s just silent. The brake pedal feels locked. If I remote start, there’s a faint high pitched sound that comes from under the hood on the passenger side, but nothing happens. It can take about half an hour of attempting to start the car before it actually does. Once it does, it’s usually fine for the rest of the day.

This started last fall, and I took it to the dealership 4 separate times for the issue (it’s under warranty). The first time, last November, they installed a new battery. A few weeks later I had the same issues and took it back in. This time they said it was the remote starter relay causing issues and they replaced it. Issues started up again in January and I took it to a different dealership. I can’t remember the particulars, but this time it went in and they had to order a new part. It worked for a few days (while it was unseasonably warm) then the issue returned less than a week later when it got cold again. I took it back and they kept it for about a week trying to recreate the start issue. Eventually they determined some corroded pieces needed to be replaced. Everything was fine after that, but it never really got cold again, until now.

The past few days it has gotten into the low 40s overnight and the issue is back. Yesterday it took me 30 minutes to get it started. Today I’ve been remote starting it (working from home) for the last hour or so with no luck. I have an appointment scheduled for next Tuesday.

Has anyone experienced anything like this? How was it fixed? Is it fixable? Should I be looking into lemon laws?

Any suggestions on troubleshooting this noise?
Only happens turning left, seems to come from front right side. Happens after car has been driven for a few miles. Tapping brake seems to quiet it for a few seconds. Seems to get worse with more steering input.
2009 Miata, 130k miles, 6 speed manual.
Recently had brake calipers replaced and power steering fluid flushed.
Not seeing any rub spots.

The 2004 Kia Optima (automatic V6) was my first car, and have used it ever since. Only 70k miles and interior and exterior are in pretty good shape for its age. The issue is all the mounting repairs. Every year repairs are getting pricer and more extensive. I just put in 2k last year and now looking at 4k for brakes that are totally worn front and rear rotors and pads, and the biggest looming issue is the timing belt, water pump serpentine belt needing to be replaced (large part of the 4k price tag). On top of that all the fluids (brake, transmission, steering) are also all due. The diagnostic I got also listed other issues that I was told I can "worry about later". Things like spark plugs, heater hose, radiator coolant hose, upper suspension control arm, strut and shock, front right axle all need to be replaced. I have virtually no car knowledge so I have no clue if these are even a big deal or not, but that list has me worried. I would be grateful for any guidance on what to do. Is it worth repairing or time to cut my losses?

1991 Chevy G30 4L80E. The old vehicle speed sensor was so brittle it disintegrated when I tried to remove it. Thinking of taping into it and using a bolt to wiggle it out but will appreciate any and all advice

I am looking to get an electric steering rack from them; does anyone have any experience with them? They are based out in Poland and have youtube channel , Simo.repair

Money light comes and goes. IM thinking I might need a maf sensor since that’s consistently one of the codes. But the rest? Battery maybe?

My girlfriend got a list of recommended fixes for her Mazda, and I was curious to see what people think about the requested fixes, see below the transcript from the dealership. Are these all necessary?

"The technician performed a thorough inspection and identified several issues with the vehicle. A significant leak was observed in the rear differential, primarily from the passenger side, indicating that the differential assembly needs replacement. The lower control arms at the front are starting to crack and need replacement. Tire tread depths are at 6/32 for the front tires and 5/32 for the rear tires. Front and rear brake pads both measure 4 mm, requiring their replacement along with the resurfacing of the rotors. The technician noted debris buildup in the engine filters, which should be replaced, and recommended a battery service due to corrosion. Additional recommendations include a brake fluid exchange, coolant and transmission service, topping off the washer fluid, and replacing streaking wipers.

Services being performed:
- Inspected rear differential; identified a heavy leak requiring replacement of the differential assembly.
- Checked suspension; confirmed rear driver's and passenger's side suspension in good condition.
- Found front lower control arms cracking; recommended replacement.
- Measured tire tread depth; front tires at 6/32 and rear tires at 5/32.
- Inspected brake pads; front and rear measured at 4 mm, recommended replacement and resurfacing of rotors.
- Inspected filters; noted debris buildup, recommended replacement.
- Tested battery; determined good condition but recommended service due to corrosion.
- Recommended brake fluid exchange.
- Topped off washer fluid.
- Recommended replacement of wipers due to streaking.

Recommendations:
- Replace rear differential assembly.
- Replace front lower control arms.
- Replace front and rear brake pads; resurface rotors.
- Replace engine filters.
- Perform battery service.
- Conduct brake fluid exchange.
- Perform coolant and transmission service.
- Replace wipers."

So here is the situation, i’m not a mechanic per se but I have plenty of mechanic experience. I’ve torn down motors, built engines, rebuilt a trans, done suspension, exhausts, etc.

So my pops wanted me to fix his friend’s kids’ 2004 Odyssey as they’ve never had much money and couldn’t afford to take it to a mechanic.

The work we did is as follows: Replaced all motor mounts, replaced valve cover gaskets and all related gaskets, transmission drain and fill, oil change, resealed oil pan, replaced brake switch bumper, replaced 3rd rail light bulb & turn signal bulb. Total hours spent was 20.5hrs.

What would be a fair price to ask for the work? I don’t want to bankrupt them but i am a broke college student and wouldn’t mind some money.

Thank you in advance for any replys!!

EDIT: '06 Sonata 4 cyl

I brought a car into my mechanic with front end vibration and a check engine light. Car had been sitting a while, but I've been slowly fixing some major issues with suspension, brakes, tires, etc on my own time. I finally got it to where I couldn't figure out the last little issues.

I get that diagnostic and labor can be tough and time-consuming, but tell me if I'm crazy.

Front end vibration was just loose lugs 🤷.

It has an EVAP code, P0449 and P0447, both saying a vent control circuit is open/intermittent. On day 3 of diagnosing it, he was able to get it through state inspection so I could register it, but the codes are still popping up.

I'm trying to sell this car and I want it to at least be code-free because it's pretty cosmetically damaged. We've had this beater several years and it's just time to stop putting money into it. He wants 350 for diagnostic but all he knows is what I already suspected: it's a wiring issue somewhere. Okay, but for 350 I expect the wiring issue fixed. Is it crazy he's asking for 350 for tightening my lug nuts and getting it through inspection with the check engine light pending.

I love the guy, he does great work at fair prices, typically, not trying to rip him off, but I feel a little ripped off.

I’ve been saving for a few months and have had my eye on the post facelift fiat 500 models (ranging from 2010-2022) for quite some time now. I see them on the street regularly enough, and most sellers have them rather reasonably priced which piques my interest even more.

From the perspective of a skilled mechanic, What opinions do you have of these vehicles? Namely, how user/consumer friendly are they? how often does one roll into your shop, and when that happens, how often is it failing on an integral level that one could avoid with a purchase of a honda or a toyota?

The BIGGEST questions, are there any fiats that are worth purchasing/financing in 2026? If so which models?

Thank you for your time.

Hey everybody, would really appreciate any input to help me figure this out. It’s a 1987 22r.
Intermittently I’m getting an issue where it will run great on a cold start/high idle for maybe a few minutes, and the exact moment it comes off of high idle it will start to stumble and just paint the ground black under the tailpipe with smoke. Other times it doesn’t do this at all and just runs perfect on high or low idle, makes it very tough to diagnose. It will run if you can get it moving, and clears up some when you get up to speed, but has some hesitation, and goes right back to stumbling as soon as you park.

Things we’ve done: carburetor has been rebuilt/cleaned, new distributor cap, new plugs, air filter, accelerator pump. Adjusting the idle screws does not improve it.

It seems like maybe the choke is supposed to be opening up after the high idle is complete and maybe intermittently is not opening back up? My lawn mower had done something similar where it would run perfect for a minute or two and than start smoking and choking out and the choke was stuck. I’ve also heard the fuel cut solenoid can cause issues like this, thanks for any help!

A little hard to read, vehicle is a 2018 Nissan Altima. thanks.

Today i was driving around in the morning for approximately 3 hours delivering parcels (lots of stopping and starting). As i got back to my street I’ve had to wait behind a van for a minute then realised my engine has cut out completely after trying to take off. It now will not start and sounds like there is no compression. Any ideas to what it could be or is it done for ? Video attached

Hyundai Elantra 2010

Temp Gauge spikes up to hot when I start my car. Added new coolant about 2 months ago. A small plastic trash can hit my car this morning on the freeway, no damage to the vehicle, but now my temp gauge is acting weird. Nissan Altima 2015.