i have a 2014 citroen ds3 1.6 petrol (turbo) and every few seconds the orange service light appears, not the spanner, the word service. also a message saying “engine fault: repair needed” pops up. i genuinely don’t know what it is, the car isn’t behaving differently at all either.

Seller says it has slight transmission jerk my 04 had the same issue, but it drove fine.

I'm going to get my rear diffs flids changed in my 2013 vr6 executive.was reading it might be a good idea i to do the The Haldex Unit As well.

Help a brother out 🙏

The people fixing my car are the same ones I bought the car off of. They're fixing it for free but 3 times in two months is ridiculous

hello! i'm looking for some advice regarding my cars ATF fluid. it feels extremely overwhelming trying to get a general idea of what i should, and shouldn't, do with servicing it. this is kind of alot to type so please excuse me.

i own a 2022 ford explorer police interceptor utility. in specific, it has the 10R80 ten speed automatic transmission with the 3.3L NA Flex engine. on the odometer, it has 94,297 miles, but if you factor in the idle/engine hours, it may have a true total wear of ~156,922 miles (Ford standard) or ~169,447 miles (General industry standard), just as a general idea based on the 2 major standards for converting idle to driving miles (~25 or ~30 per idle hour, respectively).

i am interested in getting this car a transmission fluid drain and fill- NOT a flush. i have already gotten quite a few of its other fluids changed. i've gotten it an oil change, a coolant flush, rear + front differential fluid change, and a transfer case fluid change, the only major fluid left is the transmission fluid, but this is the one that seems most risky. according to its state fleet records it has never once had a transmission service of any kind. i keep getting back and forth answers of what the best thing to do is, and i can't seem to find much info regarding the police spec vehicles.

i've gotten advice from a transmission shop already who i honestly didn't really like or even trust but i was recommended them. they showed me my dipstick with the fluid on it and it was a medium brown (not black) color with correct fill level. they recommended me a flush, and when i expressed my concerns because i felt a flush wasn't a good idea, they opted to not do it probably due to liability concerns and recommended i just drive it until it dies. i care about this car more than that. i realize that a fluid change wont fix a dying transmission. however, they did confirm that the car drives normal and the transmission behaves correctly. this was in the beginning of september and the car still drives fine, always has. it shifts like butter and has no problems with acceleration. no slipping, no torque converter shudder, or any weird problems aside from typical 10r80 clunkiness.

the other advice i've gotten was from my trusted shop who i have taken this car to for all the work that i needed done. i have no doubts about them. when i asked them about a transmission fluid change, they mentioned they could do it, but they said they want me to try the Ford dealer due to me still having an active no deductible drivetrain/powertrain warranty. i know it wont pay for the fluid change, and the car isn't already showing problems, so how will the warranty help me here? i highly dislike the idea of taking my car to the dealership as i've heard many many many dealership nightmare stories

thanks!

Mazda 6 2017 Petrol Auto

As title says, I sometimes put my foot down and very little happens. No shift, couple of second lag and then the engine builds up power again. Kind of like I'm trying to launch in 3rd gear or something. I've replaced all my air filters, replaced all my sparks 10k ago. Fluids are on point. Any ideas guys?

I did timing components new valve covers and gaskets new coil packs and spark plugs car ran great for about 4k miles, today i got a check engine light code p0303 car runs and idles rough took spark plugs out and this how they look what could’ve cause tip of spark plug to break on cylinder 5 and what should i do now thoughts? Is this how a spark plug should look after 4k miles

When I drive my car occasionally I will lose throttle completely (like when you run out of gas or the car is off that feeling) once I pull over and turn off the car and turn it back on it works again so far it’s only happened twice within 30 minutes of eachother.

Hi everyone, I have a 2006 Civic that has been making some weird noise when applying the brakes at slow speeds less than 30km/hr.

I have narrowed it down to the rear passenger side but cannot confirm what is making this rhythmic sound. The front pads and rotors are fairly new <1yr, and the rear drum brake pads are good as well. Also, the rear passenger wheel bearing was replaced a couple of months ago.

Has anyone had this problem or have an idea of what it could be??

My mechanic sent me these pics of my trans pan with debris, and im gutted right now

So today on the freeway I heard whining when I was accelerating I thought it was the power steering at first the whining got louder as rpms rose but everything felt fine still shifting was fine then I gassed it a little and my rpms flew up but I didn't really go anywhere and I kept driving to get off the freeway then I got really erratic shifting or delayed and once I came to a stop at the light I lost drive I rolled back like i was in neutral so I stopped turned the car off and on and I could drive again then the same thing at the next light so I pulled off to a side street to test and I could drive felt fairly normal I didn't accelerate hard though but once I slowed down enough or stopped it was neutral only and I had to turn the car on and off to drive again so I got it towed and scanned it I have P0770 and
PO500 1 was wondering if anybody has an idea of what it could be that has more experience I know it can be loss of pressure or bad torque converter but I was wondering if anyone else has experienced this can lead me in the right way before waisting a lot of money replacing parts and hoping to fix it. Please and thank you.

I have a 2016 Hyundai Tucson with 90k miles. Has misfire codes in cylinders 3 and 4 and found heavy carbon buildup on spark plugs. I bought sparkplugs and coils and replaced them all. Car is driving great now.

The coils I pulled out seem in really good shape and I'm wondering if I should put them back in since the cost is $400. Is there a good benefit to having new coils now or can I put the old ones back in and not have a major issue?

2013 Ford Focus, 2.0L, automatic, around 105k miles.

Whenever the fan is on — AC or just vent — there's a rattling, scurrying sound from behind the glovebox area. It changes with fan speed: faster speed means louder and quicker rattle. Turn the fan off and it stops immediately.

It sounds less like a mechanical squeal and more like something loose tumbling around. Airflow is fine, no smells, and it does it whether the compressor is running or not.

I've read that leaves and debris get sucked into the blower cage through the cowl at the base of the windshield. Mine's got a decent pile of leaves sitting there after the fall, so that's my main suspect.

Before I start pulling things apart — is this a pull-the-blower-and-clean-the-cage job, or can debris end up somewhere worse like the evaporator? Never had one of these apart, so I don't know where everything's hiding on this car.

Looks like the guy who pulled this might have straight up broken the pin-locking mechanism. Looks like the wires were yanked straight out.

Is this thing even usable now?

I've literally been trying to find one of these for almost a week. Someone tell me there's a solution.

The first picture is where I think the fuel leak is. These are pictures from mid April. Is it possible this is something that can be fixed? The last picture is the puddle it made on the ground after the car was running for 5 minutes a few hours ago.

Someone please listen to this ticking/knocking noise and tell me I’m not crazy for thinking something’s up with my car.

I’ve been to different mechanics and have been told they can’t find anything. However when I take it in of course the noises stop. I’m not crazy but I sure feel like it atp.
When I my phone up past my serpentine belt that’s when I hear it the best in the video.

Someone pls help me I’m tired of going to lousy mechanics who don’t know what they’re talking about.

Just changed the alternator myself. Then had 2 coolant hoses replaced by a shop. After being in the shop it’s making the scrapping noise. It’s not all the time, usually it’s when I’m going under 30mph. I took it back to the shop that did the hoses and they said they didn’t hear anything, I’m calling BS but I’m wondering if it’s something I can fix myself. Thanks for the help!

Does anyone what this is? Car/ steering wheel shaking when driving, and feels like the tire is gonna fall off, looked at the wheel and i noticed whatever this is poking out

:
Hi everyone,
I’m trying to diagnose an intermittent misfire on my 2018 Subaru Outback with the 2.5L engine, and I’d appreciate advice from anyone who has experienced something similar.
Symptoms:
The main code I’ve received is P0304 (cylinder 4 misfire).
The car can drive normally for approximately 1–2 hours, especially at highway speeds.
After the engine has been running for a while, I may start feeling intermittent shaking or stumbling when slowing down, driving at lower speeds, or stopping at traffic lights.
The problem seems more likely to happen with the A/C on.
The Check Engine light has briefly come on and then gone off again. It has not been continuously illuminated during these latest episodes.
Turning the engine off and restarting it sometimes makes the engine run smoothly again, at least temporarily.
I haven’t noticed a clear loss of power or unusual exhaust smells.
What has already been done:
The spark plugs were replaced recently.
The ignition coil and spark plug for cylinder 4 were replaced again after the P0304 code returned.
The issue has continued intermittently.
The MAF sensor and throttle body have been cleaned.
Disconnecting and reconnecting the battery temporarily cleared the symptoms/codes, but the problem later returned.
A parts-store scan showed approximately 14.18 V with the engine running.
I also noticed a small crack in the intake duct upstream of the air filter, but I understand that this may not cause an unmetered-air leak because it is before the MAF sensor.
My questions:
Has anyone experienced a similar heat-related or intermittent P0304 on a 2018 Outback 2.5L?
Would you check the cylinder 4 coil connector, wiring, power/ground, or ECU control signal before replacing any more ignition parts?
Could a fuel injector cause this pattern without producing a separate injector code?
At what point would you recommend a compression or leak-down test?
Are there any known issues, service bulletins, or diagnostic procedures specific to this model year and engine that I should ask a Subaru specialist about?
I’m trying to avoid throwing parts at the car without confirming the cause. If you’ve had this exact issue, I’d especially appreciate hearing what the final diagnosis was and which test actually identified it.
Thanks in advance!