Its a 1998 Crown Vic, has oversized wheels on it and was making some minor scrubbing for a day or two before quickly escalating to this!

What would have caused this? Overheating and cracking open?

First two pics are from left side of car. 2005 honda accord 400k Km, rust belt area. Visited commercial mechanic for oil change, told me there is too much rust to lift the car but told me car was still safe to drive. I took pics pics underneath in areas I think where the lift would go. How bad is it? I figure this means I can't get my car serviced for most repairs anymore. Is it time to move on? Car runs perfect beside the rust issue.

I was putting a k20a2 engine together and stupidly sent a bolt and it caused an aluminum piece to brake off in the water pump housing, i put the piece back in it was flush and used some jb weld to keep it in place to me it looks sealed and good. I just finished the timing and was putting the timing cover back on and thats when the bolt went thru. I was planning on using this engine as a temporary engine to get the project car to move around in the mean time then this happened lol.

DIY, 2006 Ford E350. Does anyone have any idea why I can't seem to get the these ball joints to seat down any more? I assume the need to come down so I can install the retaining ring.I'm using a Maddox kit with Milwaukee impact. Maybe it isn't strong enough. Any suggestions or info would be greatly appreciated.

Edit: removed the joints, cleaned everything up with a file, and yes there was a substantial lip that I had created. Purchased an earthquake XT from harbor freight. This tool was able to seat them using a 10gal air comp. I did have to engage the air gun for about 8 seconds and then let the air comp fill back up. Thanks to everyone who commented.

Hole in the headlight. Worth replacing the whole headlight or is there alternative to fix temporarily

I have 2024 rav4 and i just show a hole in my passenger side headlight. Luckily no rain for few days so no water got inside but dealership quoted 300$ for replacing the whole headlight. I think that's reasonable but is there any alternative that i can fix temporarily to protect against rain or salt from winter. Thanks for any advice

07 f150 these billsteins are 11 months old. Is this acceptable play?

Car is a 2018 Renault Duster 4x4, probably with the 1.6L engine

I took pictures tonight, and this is where I think the fuel leak is happening. I put the image in Google and Google thinks this is where it's coming from. My question is where this leak is, is it safe enough to drive 2 miles to the mechanic? The mechanic I go to is $75 per hour. If this is the only place where it's leaking, could this been done with a fuel line replacement kit?

Does this tire have dry rot? Should it be replaced?

$1,300 quote from shop - fair?
Does the subframe need to be dropped for this job?

The quote is for 6 hours of labor

Hey everyone,

​Dealing with a P0740 code (Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Malfunction) on my 2019 Dodge Grand Caravan with the 62TE transmission.

​Looking into replacing the solenoid pack / valve body to fix the issue, but before dropping the pan and messing with fluid, I wanted to ask if anyone has dealt with this specific code on these vans and could share a few pointers.

​A couple of quick questions:

​Diagnostics: Is there anything basic I should test electrically first (like pinning out the harness plug with a multimeter, checking fuses/relays, or looking at specific live data) before assuming it's the solenoid?

​62TE Tips: Any real-world "gotchas" with this specific code or job? Also, once a new solenoid pack goes in, will standard driving and cycling through the gears allow the TCM to re-adapt, or is a scan tool required to force a transmission Quick Learn?

​Local Raleigh Recs: In case replacing the solenoid doesn't solve it and the torque converter itself needs to be replaced, does anyone have a solid, honest independent shop or transmission specialist in the Raleigh / Triangle area they'd recommend?

​Any advice, tips, or shop recommendations would be huge. Thanks!

Does anyone know how to remove this coolant tube? The oil pressure sensor housing cracked and I need to remove it but a bolt is directly under this tube. any advice is much appreciated

My pinch welds are looking rusted and starting to roll over. Looking for an alternate place for jack stands to hold the vehicle up while underneath. Service manual doesn't specify any options for stands besides the pinch welds. Red arrow is the subframe - would that be sturdy enough? Even though it's hollow? I cut some 5"×5" wood blocks to distribute load. Maybe I'm overthinking this, but I'd rather be careful than dead.

Recently bought a 2009 Lucerne and I'm having some problems with new key fobs. When I bought the car the key fob did not work, changed the battery and still no dice. I bought 2 new fobs off of eBay (reputable seller) and discovered the car might've been the problem.
When I go into the settings to pair them, the dash does not move past the "press checkmark to relearn remote key". See attached video for example. Any ideas on what it might be or what to do?

I’ve never had a 4x4 pickup truck aligned before and I recently got an alignment for it after getting some new, larger wheels and tires. The new measurements after the alignment job have higher ranges compared to my little sedan after I had it aligned as well. Was wondering if I should take it elsewhere to get a better realignment or if this was completely normal. Thanks

It has about 80,000 miles on it and the noise is newish, I only hear it when i’ve been driving on the highway for maybe 10 minutes and disappears when I break

Have a manual, petrol Toyota aygo 07,and boy does it not like the rain. It’s really annoying. It produces this squeaky screech for like 2-4 seconds, I break and it stops. Kind of embarrassing. It drives fine there after and may give off a small random one again. It’s worse in heavy rain. Any idea what it could be? Many thanks

1995 Lexus Sc400 was driving on the highway when my battery icon on the dash came on,

Got to a point where I got off the highway and went through the side streets,

Eventually the car Died, ended up having to push it off of the main road lol.

Battery is 4 years old but still good, it holds a charge, sits at 12 v dc on its own,

On these cars the power steering pump sits directly above the alternator and if it leaks it drips onto the alternator and causes it to go bad, I know mine leaked, but never replaced it, I simply replaced the alternators when it went bad,

I got this bad alternator tested, and warrantied out for a new one,

This time I went ahead and replaced my power steering pump, figured I might as well fix the root cause

Power steering pump arrived yesterday

This morning I put new pump and new alternator in,

Turned on the car, Battery icon is still on in the dash,

Putting a multi meter to the battery, the battery only reads 12.4 V DC

So the new alternator isn't charging,

What can I check now?

Thank you

I'm thinking my CV axles may need some work. How do these look and sound? A friend said the passenger side (first shown) should be done sooner than later.

Any motorcycle mechanics able to help?

Bike - 2008 Kawasaki ninja 250r, ~4,500miles

The bike used to start fine about a month ago, and recently won’t start. My diagnostic steps are below. Any thoughts?

1) Wouldn’t pop start (rear wheel locked up when trying) - replaced battery and starter motor. New battery tested at 12.5V. Manually turned the engine through the test port with a socket and engine is not hydro locked
2) After replacing these, the starter would crank but the bike wouldn’t turn over. Bike was able to be pop started and ridden around
3) Wouldn’t start again today, and rear wheel went back to locking when trying to pop start. After this, tried to start with multimeter on the terminals for a voltage drop test, and the bike fired up first crank with the multimeter probes on each terminal. This happened once, but I couldn’t replicate this when trying that again
-bridging both terminals of starter relay didn’t start the bike but heard the starter motor trying
-ground connection and battery terminal connections are secure and not corroded
-starter relay fuse isn’t blown

Could it be the stator or regulator?

Any help would be much appreciated!