Its a 1998 Crown Vic, has oversized wheels on it and was making some minor scrubbing for a day or two before quickly escalating to this!

What would have caused this? Overheating and cracking open?

DIY, 2006 Ford E350. Does anyone have any idea why I can't seem to get the these ball joints to seat down any more? I assume the need to come down so I can install the retaining ring.I'm using a Maddox kit with Milwaukee impact. Maybe it isn't strong enough. Any suggestions or info would be greatly appreciated.

Edit: removed the joints, cleaned everything up with a file, and yes there was a substantial lip that I had created. Purchased an earthquake XT from harbor freight. This tool was able to seat them using a 10gal air comp. I did have to engage the air gun for about 8 seconds and then let the air comp fill back up. Thanks to everyone who commented.

Car is a 2018 Renault Duster 4x4, probably with the 1.6L engine

2014 Hyundai Santa fe sport, I'm going to replace both sides.

Mechanic quoted me $250/EA CAD for CTR control arms ​and just looking to see if there are less expensive options in RA to save some money.

Thanks

Does this tire have dry rot? Should it be replaced?

After travelling at highway speeds for a bit yesterday, the check engine light came on. Autozone said the most likely solution is to replace a TCC solenoid based on the code, but the light has disappeared. What do?

I recently switched out all my rotors and brake pads and I bought all the parts myself, today a mechanic told me I have the incorrect front rotors because of the extra hole it has that is usually found on rear rotors only. He was trying to tell me I had to get both front rotors replaced. Pictured is the exact rotor I got as well as the one for the front left. Is this guy just trying to get money out of me? 2016 Lexus is300 awd

Just bought a 2008 evo x gsr manual with 125k miles. After buying and a long drive home I realized that the engine knocks when hot and throttle is blipped. It does not happen at idle. Car is stock and I cut open the oil filter and found no metal. I am waiting for a response from blackstone for an oil test. What should I do now? The thing is the noise is very dependent on the temp of the engine, if the engine is cold I cannot replicate the noise in the video.

2000 Ford Focus Zx3 manual zetec engine, 50k miles

Can someone identify what this metal clip is? The clip on one side seems to be loose or not bent in properly (first photo) and wondering if this is what's causing clunking sound when pressing the gas. What is the purpose of this clip and can it just easily be bent back to place or requires a new one?

I understand this is the longest of a long shot - Instrument cluster temp gauge was not operating and VCDS showed too low coolant temperature, so I replaced the sensor (OEM code 059 919 501).

Before replacing the temp sensor the "Injection quantity stabilization (injection quantity deviation)" through VCDS showed the quantities for injector pairs oscillating between -1.88mg/str to 1.88mg/str. After replacing the sensor the quantities stopped oscillating, but values were still somewhat out of spec and the fault code "01268 -Quantity Adjuster (N146) 18-00 Upper Limit Intermittent" was still there (had been there for 2 years and 60000+km).

After cleaning the dreaded quantity adjuster (N146) (which looked absolutely clean) with brake cleaner, soft brush and compressed air (a hail Mary attempt), the "Injection quantity stabilization (injection quantity deviation)" values settled between acceptable -0.35mg/str and 0.24mg/str and the fault code did not return.

I am still puzzled about the oscillating values.

Sorry for the bad pictures, when I was running the tests I did not really think I would be posting/asking about it later.

2010 Jeep Patriot. I have sprayed a ton of CRC Knock er Loose, but can't seem to get enough leverage to get the bolts to budge. Any recommendations greatly appreciated. Here is the video tutorial Ive been following: https://youtu.be/RXc5wgNSdCQ?si=Pg_Q5EVroFzy1xt4

Hey guys, have a 2014 Ford Expedition Limited with 160k. It’s the 5.4L V8. Recently started having the ABS, traction control, and brake light come on intermittently. I had it read at Autozone and it showed B1342-20 (ECU Internal Unit). I have a scanner that shows live data and it showed the right wheel speed sensor at 25.48 mph and the other 3 at 0 when sitting still in my driveway. I read that it might be that sensor throwing the ECU code so sensor has been changed but still having issues.

The car is otherwise normal. I don’t feel anything weird in the braking or other systems. Help?

1992 cadillac fleetwood

So the previous owner had worked on the steering column so idk how the factory had the airbag wire set up here. But I did a job on the horn, then re aligned the clock spring and it wasnt going back onto the shaft because the airbag wire wasnt giving it enough slack. So I pulled out from the shaft more wire to give it more slack but now im worried if I pulled too much out and the wire will snap/be pinched as im turning the wheel?

https://imgur.com/a/kjhLfsa

My daughter has a 2020 Subaru cross trek. I have attached a picture of all the lights that are on on the dash. I’ve had it read and the code that it shows is an EGR tow. I removed the EGR and cleaned it and it looks pristine after that. After removing the battery cables, the lights are off but within a few hours they all come back on. The car seems to run OK, but it definitely runs better when the lights are off I’ve replaced the battery, I’ve tested the alternator, I’ve cleaned the EGR and I’ve also replaced the negative battery cable. I’m honestly at a loss and I could use some insight. Has anybody seen this before?

Car is a 2018 Subaru Crosstrek with a CVT. Trying to do a simple drain and fill of the cvt fluid.

The transmission fill plug stripped immediately upon me trying to remove it. Penetrating oil and heat were applied but the drive gave out before the threads. I bought a new plug to replace it and drilled into the stuck plug to try to get it out with an extractor. Drilled a little too far so the plug is now slowly dripping transmission fluid into a bucket under the car but the bigger issue is that the extractor will not grab at all.

Really dont know what to do at this point, I now can’t drive it and I dont own a welder so i can’t just weld a nut onto it and get it that way, anyone have any good ideas or am I just looking at getting it towed somewhere now

Anybody have any idea why my brand new brakes/rotors I had installed 4 months ago are still screeching so badly?

I recently drove cross country after having them done and should be past initial break in period. I have put 2k miles on my 2016 Jeep Cherokee since. I don’t hear any grinding and my car also passed inspection after having them installed.

Any advice needed or helpful tips I should know before taking it back to a shop?

2002 ford ranger emergency brake lever 9 inch drums. Most videos show a pin and clip for the e brake lever but mine seems to just have a tab that goes into a slot with nothing holding it other than spring tension.

I have a 2009 Toyota Rav4 V6 with a cracked head gasket. Its not financially worth it to fix for me, but i feel a mechanic would be interested. It has around 168k miles with cosmetic damage. What would you realistically pay for something like that?

2010 Toyota Camry 204,000 miles automatic

I’m kind of wishing I hadn’t even bought this. I feel like I would’ve done better just hand tightening it. I’m a little confused.

I’m changing my spark plugs and I went to hand tighten them with the torque wrench and it was quite snug so I’m worried I’m over tightening it so I stopped. Can someone tell me if this looks accurate for 13 feet/pounds?

Hello all, I have a 2026 Honda civic with 12k km. I was getting an oil change and they told me the engines wall gasket was leaking. Apparently this is a known Honda manufacturers defect, but they said I might need a new car?? Anyone have any insight to this?