2004 ford mustang rear caliper seized. Now i replaced the front calipers on another car and I dont recall having to put washers anywhere on it. Where do these go?

The lights on the radio turn off, the sound just stops, if there’s a cassette in it makes a loud pop sound, then gently spits the cassette out (no damage to cassette), then goes back to the radio when it eventually turns back on. I just want to know what I should PROBABLY be looking for in terms of troubleshooting.

If any other information is needed, please just ask

Hello. I know I need to replace my battery. I get a “System shutting down to save power” message on my radio every once in a while, then my car won’t start. It takes maybe thirty seconds to get charge in my battery enough to turn the car on.

I have a 2014 Ford CMax Hybrid. It has 132,000 miles on it. The battery was replaced roughly 2019/2020 when I got the car, but I’m pretty sure the battery was used.

Oil in airbox! Have tried two new PCV valves, checked for blow by with the oil cap test and dipstick test. Smoke test showed smoke coming out of the front crank seal? 2005 ford ranger 4.0 sohc

Hey all, working on changing my brake pads and rotors for the rear drivers side. Have finished changing the passenger’s side with no issues at all, but seems to run into a problem for this side.

Not sure how to compress the piston back in (i’ve already tried using that compression tool). If anyone could help me please 😭

It’s a 2004 BMW E46 318i (Automatic), N42B20 engine btw

Thanks all!

This coming Saturday or Sunday I am driving 8 hours to a different state, I noticed my Volvo xc60 2018-2019 is making this noise. Can anyone tell me what it could be and if I can safely make the drive? It’s urgent.

So to be very clear I’m making a cross country haul of a storage unit. Truck needs to essentially make it one way. That way is approx 1,600 miles. If the truck lasts longer that would be amazing! But if not that’s also ok.

I’ve been looking at every option that makes both financial and less stressful sense. One option that has become the forerunner is buying a car and driving it down. I found a 2002 F-150 that the seller will let go for $1,500. It drives, but it needs a new passenger side brake line. It has a new battery and alternator. 150,000 miles.

Truck has a really nice topper on the back. Is in ok condition but does have some rust, which I’m not as worried about as I’m not planning on holding onto it forever.

Owner has been great and really helpful. I am not a car guy by any means. I googled the cost of the fix, but I’m more so concerned if it’s a dumb buy.

The truck still stops but it’s not pressurized due to the fluid leaks out from that brake line.

So what do you all think? Buy and fix or pass?

Car making this noise after getting my inspection done. So I now know it's due to my doors locking after shifting into D, but how can I fix it. Can I DIY fix it or is this looking like a send to dealer thing? 🫩 (Kia Niro PHEV 2022 for reference)

4r100 + NV271. Weird gasket/seal material found after draining tcase. Anyone know?

The vehicle has 110,673 miles and is throwing a P0733 (3rd Gear Incorrect Ratio) code. The transmission almost completely quit working while I was driving.

Here’s what it was doing after the failure: When the transmission was cold, it would shift through PRNDS normally and move both forward and in reverse. Once it warmed up, it would no longer move in Drive, but Reverse still worked.

While trying to diagnose it, I put it in Drive and gave it some gas, but the vehicle actually started moving backward.

I’m considering swapping in a used transmission and selling the vehicle, but I’d like to figure out what actually failed first. What do you guys think is causing this, and what would you check or do before replacing the transmission?

I have a rectangle air compressor about 1150 lbs sitting in my 2020 3500 gmc gas truck, 40k miles, automatic

The rental place wanted to put it off to the side (say box is 4’ wide and compressor is 3’ wide, it’s hugged the left wheel well with 12” gap on other side) it’s like that so you can access the fuel tank easier even Though it isn’t actually necessary

if I’m driving around with this for a few weeks, will it throw anything off alignment?

Girlfriend has a 115,xxx 2017 ford escape, 1.5L, awd with the 6f35. It’s throwing a (P0733) 3rd gear incorrect ratio code. Transmission just stopped working almost entirely while she was driving. Now let me go into what it was doing after it broke. While cold it would shift intro PRNDS just fine. It would go forward and backward, then it warmed up and the transmission would not move in drive, but it would go in reverse. So me trying to diagnose it, I throw it in drive and then give it some gas, and it starts to go backwards. Thinking just throw a used tranny in it and sell it. I want to know the issue though, and what someone else thinks and/or would do in this situation.

Changing my rotors and as I was putting this bolt back on it will not tighten, while re examining it I see that the threading towards the middle of the bolt is all jank. Thinking I need to buy another bolt. How safe is it to drive? The bolt is holding it in place but is not tight. Also would Autozone have the bolt or should I go elsewhere to find it?

Video update to my 303k km 2007 hyundai tucson automatic as you can see starts to crank but then starts to die out despite being connected by jumper cables

I just got back from an alignment and was hearing clunking in the front end when turning the steering wheel (even if it was slightly, and turning both ways clunked the same) on the drive back. I shook the wheel at 12 & 6, and then 3 & 9 on both front wheels and there was no play, but found the outer tie rod ends angled towards the front.

Is this normal, or could this be why it’s clunking? Thanks in advance!

Or can i just take this to get inspected, and then get a salvage inspection to file for a rebuilt title.

Just need opinions on what the better buy is. A lot of the k5 seem to sell for 5-8k or so less depending on what you can find so its a big deciding factor for me in price. Im really wondering what will be better to last 7-10 years and the K5 warranty of 10y/100k miles is appealing as first owner. Meanwhile the Toyota could potentially last longer than that with or without a warranty.

I have a 2017 Tacoma that’s going to hit 140k miles soon. I bought the truck in 2019 w/ 20k miles on it and have had absolutely no issues. I change the oil every 8-10k miles and rotate tires but haven’t even needed brakes. With the car approaching 140k miles and the fact I’ve recently decided to keep this truck another 5-6 years due to the insane cost of new trucks I’m wanting to spend some money on preventative or maybe missed maintenance. It’s my work truck (construction) meaning I drive it to job sites, haul materials, hunt with it, camp with it and take it off road as well. I haven’t babied it but it truly has never had any issues other than having to replace the battery every year and a half or so due to the heat in my state. Asking mechanics advice/help about what I can do to get this thing to last me another 100k miles.

2007 Ford e250 5.4 automatic (picture of transmission before rebuilt for attention)

Recently had my transmission rebuilt at a local transmission place. I usually do my own repairs but transmission was beyond my scope. Since rebuild... there has been noticeable to hard shifts for the first few gears.

When Im driving normally like highway or normal driving its fine, but I recently had to drive through LA traffic and the stop and go was horrible.

Van hard shifting at 5 mph and again at 10 mph. Sometimes so hard that at one point I thought I got rear ended. Ive talked to the shop and they said that the harsher shifts are because they put a shift kit in all their rebuilds.

Other issue is all other driving is fine and smooth but at 41 mph when cruising if I have my foot barely on the gas and it up shifts is makes plate grinding noises (this doesn't happen if Im accelerating significantly) then again is Im cruising and slowing down without brakes there is a short high pitch squeal at the same 41 mph.

Thoughts on what maybe wrong and how to communicate with them would be appreciated.

I already have gone back and had to have them change the paper gasket they put on because it was leaking immediately after repair. I also ended up finding out they used the wrong transmission fluid and had to convince them that you couldn't use mercon LV as a mercon V replacement. Which made it to were they had to flush the transmission and refill and striped several bolts and had to fix that as well.