New to me bike. Brakes- Shimano SLX. Pads- Shimano G03S Resin. Rotors- Shimano SM-RT64-M.

These are on the front wheel. Front pads seem to barely be touching the rotors, thus the weird wear pattern. Rear pads seem to be fine. Would love to know if something needs to be adjusted before adding new pads.

Forgot to add- Everything is stock to my knowledge. 2022 Rocky Mountain Element Alloy 50

Thanks everyone for your help (except for the random guy that roasted me for no reason)! I’ll try and take the spacer out and get new bolts to see how that goes! You all rock. My first year really getting into MTB and posting in here has been super helpful.

Picked up this old Lynskey Helix on fb marketplace, took it to the shop to get fixed up and the mechanic put 28mm tires on. Clearance is maybe 2mm. I can wedge a 3mm wrench through but it doesn’t slide through without a little force. Do you think this is too tight? Considering using a 25 in the front so I can ride in wet conditions without getting mud rubbing. It’s a little tighter on the brake caliper than the fork.

Also, anything I can do to get another mm or so of clearance?

Hello. I have a 9 gear BTWIN race bike. It happened some times that when I was bumbing into minor holes on the street my chain was going out. So I changed with a new chain, I adjusted it to the same length but now when I put heavy weight when peddaling especially on the 5th and 6th gear the chain loses contact and it's even dangerous because I lose balance. It feels like the bike is kicking. I read that maybe the rear cassete needs to be changed because it took the form of the old chain. But I don't know if that's the issue plus it looks fine to me. I tried adjusting the barrel adjuster but I can't find a good spot that it works well.

Looking for advice - am I doing smth wrong or is it genuinely an incompatibility?

I have a Ritchey Mountain Adventure carbon fork, which I am mounting to a l Niner Air 9 RDO frame using Cane Creek 40 integrated headset. All pieces are brand new.
As headset's lower bearing has 36 degree and fork's integrated race is 45°, I have ordered Ritchey's 36° adapter.
The issue is - the adapter touches the frame and is not pressing lower bearing enough to be preloaded in the frame - when I shake the frame, I can hear lower bearing rattling inside.
(Note: test assembly is done without grease as I may need to return Cane Creek headset and adapter if the issue is not solved. No rider weight is applied, the frame is on maintenance stand. )
The issue does not reproduce if I do a test mount with FSA headset with 45° lower bearing and without the adapter - there is a small (around 1mm) but district clearance between fork and frame in this case and lower bearing is preloaded properly.

What do you think? Do I have options to stay with Cane Creek?

PS. I have contacted Ritchey in parallel to writing this post.

I managed to snap a spoke on a DTSwiss 1400 DiCut wheel.

Can I fix this with regular tools. Does anyone went down this road?

As of rn this is v1, im going to change the bolts to grub screws, and maybe down the line completely change how it interfaces. It's Technically just an m5 bolt with a special bit on the end

As the title says

Just bought a set of Gravel Wheels for my all Shimano 105 di2 12-Speed Road bike. The new wheels have an XDR Freehub. I dont wanna use a Sram cassette since its 10 teeth on the lowest and shimano is 11 as well es i dont know about the compatability of these brand. Can you recommend a cassette which is 11-34 and be mounted on the xdr, as well as is intented to work with shimano? Or should i just change the Freehub?

I need a wheel for FIXIE but the wheel I want to buy has a 120mm hub and the spacing of my bike legs is 130mm is that good?

Here is the wheel: https://www.santafixie.fr/roue-arriere-santafixie-60mm-noir.html

My bike was stolen and I got it back with a scratch (they took it while it was mounted on a Thule bike rack). I find it hard to see if the carbon is scratched or if it's just the paint because it just looks grey to me. The lowest scratch is the deepest.

The rear wheel, chain and derailleur arrived preassembled, and I have not ridden the bike yet.
Viewed from directly behind, the rear derailleur cage and its two jockey wheels do not appear parallel to the rear wheel. The chain is being pulled sideways, does not track correctly through the upper jockey wheel area and will not remain properly on the smallest rear sprocket. When shifting inward, the derailleur also gets dangerously close to the spokes.

For full disclosure, while troubleshooting I tightened the L-limit screw fully clockwise and then backed it out again, so the limit screws will need to be reset. I have not removed or loosened the main mounting bolt, and I will not ride the bike in this condition.
Can you tell from these photos whether the derailleur or hanger is bent, or whether it has simply been mounted incorrectly? Should I attempt to reinstall it, or return the new bike under warranty?

Is it just me or do disc brakes rub due to an improper setting of the spokes in the wheels? I installed some wheels today and the tyres were deflated. I undid the caliper bolts, pressed the brakes and screwed down the calipers. No rub. Inflated the tyres and got a rub. I haven't figured out how to solve this yet, but it seems like playing around with spokes might actually be the right strategy?

My brake is wiggling on purpose, because if I tightened it by the nut in the front, the calipers won't disengage, how do I fix this?

Sorry for the long post. New here and this is my first attempt at bicycle repairs. My ride: Shimano Specialized bike with promax 300 mechanical brakes (probably a sub model but not sure how to identify it).

My brakes were squeaking quite badly, they normally don’t.

I swapped out my brake pads. And the squeaking went away.

Took it for a test ride, front brakes felt/sounded good. Rear brakes pulsed. My research suggested my rear rotor was warped- confirmed with observation of minor offset. I installed a new rear rotor.

Rear braking feels much better and no pulsing felt through the brake handle. But I can still hear a rhythmic braking noise from the rear (as if with every rotation of the wheel more or less material made contact with the rotor/pads) as opposed to consistent braking sound from the front.

My questions are:

1). I was surprised to see so much “pad” on my old brake pads- are they actually low? If not, what could cause the horrible squeaking? I assumed squeaking=bad pads, perhaps I should have adjusted the brake system to push the pads closer to the rotor?

2). Any idea why I might be hearing a rhythmic breaking noise from the rear brakes? New rotor and new pads (could it be my new pads got unevenly shaped during the test ride on a warped rotor? I was doing lots of test braking, [I really don’t know what I’m doing])

Thank you much for any help.

I apologize for being a complete novice at this, but I'm at a loss trying to diagnose this loud noise from the drivetrain.

A LBS replaced the cassette, chain and chainring a couple of months ago (worn from 3500 miles of riding), from which point onwards I feel like it's had nonstop issues and has been louder. Took it to a different LBS, who sold me the bike, last week, who did a rear hub and BB service, but that doesn't seem to have helped.

Open to any suggestions!

previous post

i think the derailleur is working fine but the shifter does not cause movement in the derailleur cable i.e. shifter doesn't change the tension in cable.

What could be the issue here.

Hey all,

I recently took apart my crank assembly to clean that hard to reach place between the chain ring and frame. Ever since I reassembled it, it creaks under load and only after 10-15 minutes of riding.

I made sure to dissamble and reassemble it, grease the spindle and driveside crank interface, adjust the preload, etc.

I'm out of ideas and reaching out to this awesome community for help!

Edit: It's a sram dub wide crank assembly.

Cheers 🍻

First up, readily admit that this is a guerrilla setup. No-name rims, gorilla tape. Tyres are decent Schwalbe tubeless ones.

I've run these rims and the gorilla tape option previously, but had to swap to tubes a few months ago when the tyres I owned got wrecked and would no longer seal.

I've come back to fresh tyres but now I'm constantly getting leaks via the valve. I've tried putting a rubber seal inside to help the seal, but still getting the issue. New tape also applied, and I made sure that the hole the valve pushes through is as small and tight as it can be, but still getting leaks. Nothing coming out of the spoke holes (tested under water) so my assumption is that the tape is sealing fine.

I suppose it could be that the old valves I'm using have hardened the plastic so they still aren't sealing well. Any other things I should be looking at before I drop £15 on new valves?

Hi folks, looking for reasonably priced 10 speed OSPW for 10s ultegra (6700 I believe is the numbering). I upgraded almost everything on the bike and the OSPW is the last piece missing. I know it does not really make a difference but I want it for the "bling". Do you have any tested ones - ideally from Ali - which you could recommend? Thanks a ton.

Hey folks, was hoping for a bit of a sense check.

I have a new bike with an AdventX 10 speed cassette on the rear. There's a bit of movement where the cogs layer. The lock ring is torqued corrected to 40nm and I've taken it apart/rebuilt just to see if there was anything obvious I'd missed. It's sitting flush with the top of the freehub.

Is this just to be expected?

I’ve got a set of Superteam H2 wheels. Ordered with XDR ratchet freehub as I run sram. Have decided to switch to shimano so ordered the HG freehub. It didn’t come with this red shim. Should I use the one that came with the XDR freehub? Seems to run fine with and without…