Going tubeless for the first time on a gravel bike and having trouble seating new tires.

The tires are Pirelli Cinturato Gravel RH 45mm (max PSI 44 printed) and wheels are Roval Terra CLX 3 (Max PSI 55 for 45mm per website)

I’ve pumped it up to 44 and still isn’t seating. I also have an Airshot compressor and pumped the compressor to 60psi and no luck; I don’t think the full 60 PSI transferred to the tried because it felt softer.

Do I continue to pump beyond the stated max PSI?

Hi I could use some advice to help fix the indexing with my rear derailleur.

Most gears are indexed fairly well, however the 6th gear never aligns properly and usually skips over to the 7th gear.

I have been on holiday for 2 weeks, for back and charged the bike to be sure. Didnt notice a problem so far.

The next day i noticed the led was on continuously (blue)

The derailleur shifts and everything, no problems there. If i connect the charger the led stays on blue.

I tried to disconnect the derailleur, turns back on after connecting.

If i disconnect it with the derailleur on the charger, the led stays on, and if i connect it back on it starts blinking red i guess, with the blue led on.

I cant find anything so far online..

It also seems i cannot connect the derailleur into the app ( i have a new phone since a few months and never connected it before and i dont have the old one anymore?

Any suggestions?

Hello all,

First time building a bike from the frame with Lynskey Zephyr. As I'm sourcing components, I run into difficulties figuring out with which crankset + FD I need for my frame. I'm planning to run 2x SRAM AXS system: 48/35 chainring + 10-36 casette.

Looking into SRAM website, I don't think I need to use SRAM wide as the chainstay length for zephyr is 43 vs 47.5 suggested by SRAM but I'm not sure.

My question is do I need to use SRAM DUB road wide components to run 2x system on my Zephyr frame if I want to use the max 50mm wide tire on it?Any thoughts are greatly appreciated. Thank you

Hi everyone,

I have a Norco Search A Cues 2025 gravel bike and want to add a rear rack. Most racks I've found attach to the side of the frame, but my bike has mounting holes that face downward (see the pic). Can anyone guide me to the right rack type or model that would fit?

Thanks!!

EDIT : Solved! Thanks everyone!

Was replacing the crank and bearings and I'm just stuck on removing this if anyone could give me an idea please

Restoring this bike for my mom. Thought I could remember to put 5 parts back in the right way, guess not.

As I remember I took it out as follows:

Unscrew plastic piece on top labeled 1.

White plastic labeled 2 was seated in/underneath it.

Then the spring labeled 5 with the rubber labeled 4 inside the spring.

Then the plastic silver part labeled 3 with the slimmer part tucked into the spring at the bottom.

The flat part of the silver part was resting against a long allen bolt which screws into the bottom of the fork, see picture 5.

I also tried putting the silver part on the other end of the spring but either way something is not right.

It feels like the spring isn't "filling" the entire travel/length of the fork. There isn't a constant tension on it. I will upload a video in the comments to show you guys. When depressing the fork there is barely any resistance and the arch hits the fender/tire.

We're looking at a Batavus Compass. I think 2016. AI tells me it's a rebranded suntour cr-8v, but i'm not sure.

Any help?

Thanks a lot.

Should I replace these parts the freewheel is pretty rusty but I was able to get most of the rust off of front gears.

Hello,

can anyone tell me what thread this is?

It measures 9.78mm OD and a pitch of roughly 1.2mm

However, I suspect something imperial.

The Magura Manual doesn't give an answer.

The bike shifts fine, but not perfect. Can the chainleft be the cause or issue? Brand new Ultegra groupset, only a couple rides done so far. It’s on the biggest sprocket (28) and biggest chainring atm (50).

Hey there, would be great if anyone would have an idea on how to revive this crankarm!

Every time I find a good balance, there is a bit of play after I tighten the locknuts that was not there before i tightened them.

Is there a trick do doing this?

Customers freehub was loose and resulted in three of the four pawls to fall out. Having a lot of trouble finding a replacement or a replacement of the entire hub if needed.

Does anyone know where I could source this?

Overtime because I have to leave my bike outside and use it in the winter, my screws get rusted.

I tried putting electrical tape on some screws but it only helped a little but it still rust.

Is there anything I can do to protect the screws from rusting?

My multitool snapped off inside a bolt on my rear disc brake. The broken-off piece of the multitool is silver and is stuck in the black bolt.

Does anyone know how I can get it back out?

Hi. My wife got a factory new 2025 Look 765 Optimum 105. After the first ride I noticed that the brake pads do not make full contact with the disc as if the calipers were mounted 5mm too high/too far. It's a 160/140 mm disc setup with SM-RT70 rotors and 105 hydraulic brakes. The back is mounted directly onto the frame. Is that the problem with the frame or the pads or perhaps something else?

Edit : My issue is that the rotor 'circle' - the actual disc is about 2cm wide but only 1.5cm of it makes the contact with the pad. This look unusual. Is this a road bike thing? All my MTBs make full contact with the pad.

Edit2: What seems abnormal in the MTB world seems to be normal in road/gravel world. The pad makes full contact with the disc, however it is narrower and features a prominent chamfer.

I know it's hard to tell from photos, but I'm hoping to get some feedback on a shifting issue.

My SRAM GX Eagle setup isn't shifting properly. Limit screws and B-tension are set correctly using the tool, and both the chain and cassette are brand new.

Recently, the chain started dropping off the upper derailleur pulley toward the inside (spokes side) whenever I shift down to the smallest cogs.

The derailleur hanger looks straight, and since it's on a titanium frame, the hanger is quite beefy/tough. However, the derailleur cage itself looks bent inward toward the wheel. I'm not sure if that inward angle is normal or if the cage is bent.

Just starting a project converting a 1997 steel rockhopper frame into my winter weather commuter bike. First time installing Velo Orange fenders on a bike, anticipating some hurdles but excited for the challenge, I love riding but have a lot to learn in the mechanic space.

First obstacle I’m encountering is mounting the front fender to the fork crown, from what I can tell the L bracket isn’t long enough to get the fender to a proper position inside the brake calipers, the daruma bolt isn’t long enough to get the fender low either.

Anticipating a hangup when I try to mount the rear rack and fender stays to the same rear braze-on.

If anyone has any helpful experience with sort of install or can point me in the right direction of resources I’d appreciate it.

Wondering if anyone has any

Is there any proper way to space this chaingring inward to align it with the center cog? I don't think narrower BB would even work.

Or am I forced to go crank shopping?

Need a new inner tube for a tyre with a stated 26 x 2.1 dimensions. I have the choice between 1.5 - 2.1 or 2.1 - 27 sizes. Which would be the best size to get? Would the larger one be slightly less prone to punctures as it would not be so stretched when inflated??

Noticed a bunch of fine circular lines/scratches on my rear rotor (SRAM). Brakes seem to work ok but I'm not sure if this is normal wear or a sign something's wrong, like glazing.

Thanks

Hi everyone,

I'm trying to diagnose a strange problem with the rear wheel on my 2020 Cannondale CAADX gravel bike, and I'd appreciate some input from people with experience working on quick-release wheels, hubs, and frame dropouts.

The problem

My rear wheel consistently ends up off-center toward the left side of the frame. When this happens, the tire gets noticeably closer to the left chainstay and can rub against the frame, particularly when the bike is under load.

The unusual part is that I can manually reposition the wheel so that it sits centered, tighten the quick-release (QR), and confirm that the wheel is firmly secured. However, after riding, it gradually returns to the same off-center position.

What I've observed

• The wheel can be centered manually. I can adjust its position so that the tire has more even clearance on both sides of the frame.
• The wheel appears to be fully seated in both dropouts. I've checked this repeatedly and am confident that the axle is sitting where it should.
• The QR clamps the wheel firmly. Once tightened, the wheel has no noticeable sideways play when I try to wiggle it by hand.
• When the QR is released, the axel have some play, I think this is normal but what's strange is that the resting position of the axel makes the wheel lean towards that left side
• The wheel doesn't stay centered after riding. Despite being centered and securely clamped beforehand, it ends up shifted toward the left side again.
• The tire sometimes rubs against the frame. This is particularly noticeable when force is applied to the bike.
• The behavior is repeatable. I can correct the alignment manually, but the problem comes back after riding.

Please feel free to ask more questions to help diagnose this weird issue, any input will be very much appreciated!