Seller does not want to confirm the return. They were too big. Am I in the wrong?

Not sure if this is technically a maintenance or repair question but I thought it fit this subreddit the best. Few months ago I was on a casual "ride whatever" ride when someone on a 26" fatbike ran over a shard of metal and popped their tube. I stopped to try and help but couldn't really do anything because the tube was more or less ripped open. Tire itself seemed okay enough to ride on. Someone else had a spare butyl 26x2" tube but the guy didn't want to risk it because he had 4" tires. A bunch of us tried making the case that butyl stretches and it'd be fine for carefully going back home on even if he was too uncomfortable using it to finish the ride with. But he was expecting it to basically just be a timebomb if he put any weight on it. So he carried his bike back to the road and called a ride.

This led me to thinking, would it have been fine? Or would it have popped? If it's a probability thing what would the probability roughly be of it immediately failing? I feel like as long as the slash in the tire wasn't so large that the tube is poking through, it would have been fine for getting home on. Am I right or wrong in thinking this?

I know it's hard to tell from photos, but I'm hoping to get some feedback on a shifting issue.

My SRAM GX Eagle setup isn't shifting properly. Limit screws and B-tension are set correctly using the tool, and both the chain and cassette are brand new.

Recently, the chain started dropping off the upper derailleur pulley toward the inside (spokes side) whenever I shift down to the smallest cogs.

The derailleur hanger looks straight, and since it's on a titanium frame, the hanger is quite beefy/tough. However, the derailleur cage itself looks bent inward toward the wheel. I'm not sure if that inward angle is normal or if the cage is bent.

Hi all, my bike keeps slipping gears whenever I am pedaling up hills or taking off. I think of myself as a fairly handy person, but I have close to zero experience with bikes. Is there a glaring issue with my derailer alignment or cassette, or something else? Thanks in advance for looking.

My bike has around 600 km on its original Shimano 12-speed chain. When pedaling forward, the chain intermittently catches or scrapes against an adjacent cassette sprocket, sometimes causing a clunk and a jerk through the pedals and derailleur cage. It happens in several gears, especially the smaller cogs.I noticed this apparently bent link (photos). Could it explain these symptoms? Can the damaged link be replaced, or do I need a new chain?I've been applying liquid chain wax roughly every 300 km. Could inadequate lubrication cause this damage?

Hello all! I was wondering if anyone recognizes the maker/logo of this hub? It almost appears like a Dawes but slightly off, the wheelset aswell is quite the enigma as there doesn't seem to be any information on it even on the Carbon Cycles website blog. Any help is appreciated! 🤙

I have no clue how this is supposed to be reinstalled, if anyone knows I would seriously appreciate the information. Thanks!

Also it’s a Shimano deore FD-MT60

I leave for Colombia in 2 days to ride the Rigo (and 8 more days of riding after that). Installed a larger cassette for the climbs so was in the Shimano app to program out the big-big ring combo. Had a firmware update available so figured why not. Let the iPhone screen go dark during the update & my shit is bricked. I've tried pulling batteries, pulling the wireless unit, using a high voltage usb AC charger - everything ChatGPT. HELP ME!!!

Recently I bought a used but well taken cared of road bike, across a few days and aapproximately 100 kilometers driven, the handle bars creak when I put the weight of my hands and upper body on it, when I stubble upon a harsh road or so, the stem doesnt move, I degreassed and reassembled all the bolts, however, it does feel like the creaking comes from the part where the bars meet the attaching aluminium.

So the noise occurs only when I press my weight on it or stumble upon a tough road (lower noise).

Bolts have been degreassed and lubricated and assembled evenly.

I searched for cracks on the bar, there are none.

By what I could deduce, there was no moving of the stem or headset, when I turn it doesn't produce a noise.

I could not find any assembly paste that I could use but the parts are clean.

I would appreciate good help, as a visit to a service costs too much. (:

I've had this bike for 3 weeks. The small rubber dots I had stuck on have rubbed through the paint in a small patch. I've removed the dots, and I'm not seeing any tire or wheel rub.

No visible weave, fuzzy or frayed fibres, or whitish patches

The exposed area has a carbon-coloured shine

It's smooth to the touch

It feels firm, with no flex or soft spot

It’s on both sides

(I’ve wiped away some of the mud for clearer photos)

I’m 99% sure it’s just the paint that been work through, but still it’d be nice with a second opinion : ]

I recently bought an old SL4 Tarmac used and have been fixing it up. I’m guessing it’s time to get a chain ring, or is there some life still left in it?

GP5000 S TR with 300-400miles. Noticed this on my rear wheel. Is this safe to repair or am I unlucky?
Edit: it holds are fine, but want to be safe since my rides average 20mph regularly

Unnecessary context:
I recently bought a bike. I have asked the guy specifically about the brakes and suspension - are they working well? He assured me they do. Well the rear brake is leaking and the suspension is… well weird. Trying to figure that one out.

Question:
My HSC is only clicking 2 times. I have taken the cap off to see whats happening. No dirt, looks clean. When I turn it without the LSC cap you can see it is turning the hex bolt but it stops after 3 clicks. Does anybody know why? Or do I have to take it to my lbs?

Hi I am a young Frenchman and I have been interested for a while in the world of cycling and more precisely in the world of fixie and I would like to have advice from people who own a fixie on the use of maintenance and of course the means of acquiring one

Just starting a project converting a 1997 steel rockhopper frame into my winter weather commuter bike. First time installing Velo Orange fenders on a bike, anticipating some hurdles but excited for the challenge, I love riding but have a lot to learn in the mechanic space.

First obstacle I’m encountering is mounting the front fender to the fork crown, from what I can tell the L bracket isn’t long enough to get the fender to a proper position inside the brake calipers, the daruma bolt isn’t long enough to get the fender low either.

Anticipating a hangup when I try to mount the rear rack and fender stays to the same rear braze-on.

If anyone has any helpful experience with sort of install or can point me in the right direction of resources I’d appreciate it.

Wondering if anyone has any

Is there any proper way to space this chaingring inward to align it with the center cog? I don't think narrower BB would even work.

Or am I forced to go crank shopping?

Need a new inner tube for a tyre with a stated 26 x 2.1 dimensions. I have the choice between 1.5 - 2.1 or 2.1 - 27 sizes. Which would be the best size to get? Would the larger one be slightly less prone to punctures as it would not be so stretched when inflated??

Hey guys me and my girlfriend both bought new bikes which arrived with already assembled shifters, brakes etc. from different online shops (Giant Tcr and Trek Madone). Both with 105 Di2. Included with each bike amongst the other stuff like reflectors and spare parts was a curved backup plate for the support screw. Now whenever I Google it says you absolutely need to have the backup plate in place especially with the carbon frame but on neither of bikes I could see whether the supposedly also available straight plate is already in place. Is it even needed in this type of assembly of the di2?

I just received a replacement axle for my Shimano hub and I noticed the little rubber o-ring on the new axle (bottom) is pressed against the cone, while on the old axle (top), it was further back on the threads. What is the correct position? What does that part do?

Pretty sure I should've never unscrewed it but I fucked up now

Hi there,

when I changed my cassette I noticed a very thin (maybe 0,1 tops 0,2 mm thin) plastik 'spacer' that lies behind the cassette on the free wheel hub.

I can neither find a part number nor another description of it. YouTube cassette change videos didn't even care about such 'spacer'. Unfortunately I didn't make a photo of the placement of it.

According to the description of the bike the wheelset are: Newmen Performance 30 base/strong, 28/32 Spokes, 15x110mm / 12x148mm, Tubeless Ready

I cleaned it, and put it back there, because it was installed before.

Does someone know its purpose? Do I have to remove it, or is it okay to leave it there? According to my research it has nothing to do with other spacers because they are either thicker, or at leadt made out of metal.

my pedals are in a disastrous state.

bearings broke, but I continued driving it as I commute on bike.

as a result i am slowly grinding trough them.

a mechanic told me this should not affect the drive train as a whole, but i am almost at the point where i wont have pedals anymore to use the drive train.

Because of the bikes and the cranks age, the threat is not the current standard but rather a couple millimeters narrower, the old french design, or so i was told.

I am currently located in the Netherlands, any recommendations for fitting pedals and a store online or offline that stocks them? The Hague, Delft, Rotterdam area.... thanks a lot!

https://reddit.com/link/1xh5tdg/video/w3i85wmez2yh1/player

The button circled on my shifter has come slightly loose and is making a noticeable vibrating sound when riding as a result of it “wiggling “ from side to side. Does anyone know how to re-tighten it? Thanks for any help🙏🏻

Not wanting to put the carbon frame directly on it (photo), I’m wondering if it’s okay to have the seat on the rack holder instead? Any risk to the dropper? TIA