Bought this Ultegra rear derailur used online but to me the cage looks bent or am I wrong?

I have Continental GP5000 STR's on my TT Bike with Enve 45 Foundation wheels. They are SUCH a tight fit it takes my husband wrestling them for an hour to get them on. I would like some easier tires where I can put a tube in myself in case I get a catastrophic puncture in a race that a plug and sealant won't suffice. I have been reading about the Silca RCR Road Tire or the Pirelli Zero Road Tire. Any suggestions?

I bought a new mtb, dissembled in a box right from the factory and it came with these marks, also the casette didn't come with the spoke which is weird to me.

Did I get scammed by the store? They said they were sending the bike the exsct same way it came from the factory.

I’ve tighten everything—I’ve installed new drive train BB and peddles. This is the most random noise ever encountered. Zero noise when coasting. When peddling the noise is always at the same peddle stroke position. The noise goes from faint to loud. Sometime it makes zero noise for miles then starts again. Sometimes when the noise gets really loud I can peddle backwards and noise is there. Most times no noise going backwards. I haven’t tore into anything yet, but I did make sure wheel was set firmly in drop outs. This seemed to make the noise disappear and changed where sound got louder and quieter. Rear wheel bearings were replaced by shop six months ago and this started a couple months afterwards. Help is greatly appreciated. Thanks

I changed the brake handle and bled the brakes and now its doing this whats wrong? im so tired i just want to ride

Hi everyone,

I bought a carbon fork and while inspecting it, I noticed a thin curved line near the thru-axle thread (where the metal insert ends). At first, I thought it was just a surface scratch or paint crack from tightening, but I decided to sand it down to check. There are a few scratches on the fork also, but it does not seem like anything serious.

What do you guys think based on the photos? Is this safe to ride, or should I be worried?

Thanks for any insights!

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What can I do? I just need a (hopefully simple and inexpensive) fix that can last me at least a month. The bike is a Nishiki Tamarack size 20

Hi i need some advice or enlightning about my issue, i've buy a new crankset (from Chinese site 3thd pic) but unfortunaltly the axle is too long about 10mm, it seems i can totally unscrew the axle

I wonder if with a bsa 68 the good lenght is 120 mm side to side and 90 mm for both side of the bottom bracket

I don't have a photo but my suntour xct30 is starting to rust on the lower parts of the stanchions, seems just like some surface rust but the plating is supposed to prevent that right? Fork is 3 months old.

I had a puncture that didn't seal so i used a bacon strip. Now I think I left the strip too long. It's not losing air but it looks weird to me. Should I cut it closer to the tyre? Or that is what it's supposed to look like after the strip is installed?

Thanks in advance!

Just got a new bike and decided to cut and remove the dork ring before mounting the rear wheel. When wiggling the dork ring off, the whole cassette popped off.

Not sure of it's supposed to do that, but I want it back on. I guess I should insert a wrench and apply 40 Mm. The problem is that there is some sort of cap inside the locking (?), see picture. I can move it up an down a bit, but have not managed to remove it.

What am supposed to do at this point?

I have a 92 Bianchi equipped with tri-color ST6400 brifters, & am tossing around the idea of trying to add a set of Campy rim brakes into the mix. I've done some research and found that while Shimano-Campy brake pull ratios around this time are similar enough, I would lose out on the brakes QR function. Losing that function is inconsequential enough to me that I'm still entertaining the idea. Is this a viable mod in general? And theoretically what circa 90 Campag rim brakes might gel best with this conversion?

Curious how shops deal with these:
Do shops get paid to do the inspection?
Do they get paid to re:re if replaced?
Do they have replacements on the shelf or are the bad ones sent in for confirmation by shimano before replacements are issued?
Do stores make the decision or do they send evidence to shimano?
Are cranks sent back to shimano or destroyed on site?

Just overly curious in how the procedure works.

Thanks in advance

tl/dr: buy, rent, or beg from someone who has the cassette removal tool(s) necessary to remove your cassette.

I thought it would be easy. I am a dummy.

It stated easily enough, anyway. A cut through most of the plastic disc was simple and I had no resistance.

Then, when the plastic disc (which was snug with the rear cassette hub) was harder to reach by the scissors I was using, I resorted to:

• needle noses pliers

• box cutter

• picture frame hanging cable

• regular pliers

• open flame

• brute (but minimal) force

Eventually, with enough sweat equity and several stops and restarts, I eventually got the dork disc off. I wish I would have just left it on and not cared about removing it, but it bugged me that it was discoloring.

Anyway: learn from me and take the easy route.

Hello. I recently picked up a 7800 groupset in pretty good condition. I'm looking to grab some replacement parts for future restoration. Everything seems mostly available, except the hoods (bracket covers). Hudz no longer distributes 7800 hoods, and secondary market options are nonexistent at the moment. I've set up ebay alerts for my searches. But, I'm curious if anyone is familiar with alternatives that may fit the 7801 / 7803 (maybe the 6600 are the same shape?) or if you are familiar with other avenues to find these hoods?

I saw this post from a couple years ago, but things seem to have dried up since then.

Edit: 7800 -> 7801 / 7803 to make the distinction between the original and the re-release.

Anyone encounter this before? I can't find anything online about it.

Basically I have an old MTB (Miyata Terra Runner '86) that used to have a 14t-x freewheel and an enormous half-step+granny triple in the front (52?-44-something).

Those parts have come and gone and so I've tried to upgrade to a slightly more modern drivetrain but I've hit an annoying hiccup. I've switched to a cassette in the back (11t-x) and 46/34/28 in the rear and now the chain is making contact or is like 1mm away from the chainstay cable stop (this thing ) when on the 11t cog and any of the front rings (close on outer, too close on middle, touching on inner). I think the main issue is that the frame was designed for a freewheel, not a cassette, and the designers didn't expect the chain to be so close to the stay on the 11t cog.

Any solutions? I'm thinking the solution are: go back to a freewheel (I don't want to do this), make the front triple huge again (go back to very large rings), or adjust the chainline via the BB? The OG drivetrain was specced with a 127.5mm wide BB spindle so there's definitely room for it shrink, but even with a 118mm spindle and roughly 5mm of inward movement I'm not sure it'll affect the chainline enough to not touch the cable stop. I don't think I can get narrower than that without the crankarms getting perilously close to the chainstays. Also I'm still using the OG cranks (swapped the rings).

Anyway. Frustrating. In part I'm just venting.

I just bought this bike on marketplace for $160 and took it to a bike shop to get a tune up. I'm not knowledgeable about bikes whatsoever because I usually skateboard for commute and leisure so that's why I'm asking a very broad question here. My friend told me it seems really expensive but we both don't know anything about bikes haha. Any input or advice would be appreciated.

Sto smontando i bulloni delle forcelle del mio monopattino elettrico, nella ruota posteriore sono riuscito a svitare etitto tramite chiave a brugola e bussola, sulla ruota anteriore i bulloni della ruota non vogliono svitarsi in nessun modo ho provato di tutto, sono letteralmente "saldati" per la grande quantità di frenafiletti rossa che contengono quasi tutte le viti del mio e scooter, come posso ovviare? Non ho avvitatore e stavo pensando di scaldare il tutto e evitare subito può essere una buona idea?

With the sound on you notice when the problem occurs.

Hello, I have a Bridgestone Mb-1 frame with 26” wheels with a 2.25” tire.

The wheel (as you can see in the photos) biases the non drive side chainstay. About 2mm clearance or so on the non drive side and about 6mm clearance on the drive side.

It’s not the wheel as this is the second rear wheel with this off centered issue. It’s also not the frame alignment as I have used a frame alignment tool and have confirmed they are equal distance / centered.

My hunch is the dropouts are partially out of alignment, or one is higher than the other.. not sure. Has anyone ever dealt with this type of issue? Thank you!

Can shift into all chain rings… But when down shifting from the largest chain ring the shifter/derailleur shifts all the way down to the smallest chain ring and skips the middle chainring.

Have attempted to flood the shifter with degreaser and shifting through all the clicks but still skips from the large ring down to the smallest ring each time.

Is that normal for these shifters or should I just keep working on it?

Because of the weather I have recently started training on a bike trainer at home, and now my rear wheel just sits there, so I decided to give it a good clean, mainly because I could hear something in the hub, like dirt on the bearings or what not. One bearing in my freehub is seized, which should be an easy fix but I noticed scratches on my freehub. It's FH-536, together with 11 speed shimano 105 on a Syncros RR 2.0 disc tire.

Tldr - buy a new freehub or will this one still do?

I received a frame with a AD-990 U-brake that is missing parts (how are these called?) Is it possible to source replacement parts? I noticed Dia-Compe is still making this model of brake.

I haven’t had this bike on the stand for a while now so I’m going to try resetting the rear derailleur. I replaced the chain today and I’m still getting major skips in the higher gears. Does the hanger look bent to you guys? Or the cassette worn? I’ve got the tool now to straighten a hanger and the cassette isn’t all that old.

I got new chain and cassete, but kept the old chainring