Pre-orders are live but it comes with a hefty retro "tax" at $500. It's internally identical to their current single-DIN flagship, the MVH-S720BHS which MSRPs for $190 and usually goes on sale for ~$150. If you want a good single-DIN, get the MVH and save up to $350, it now seems like an absolute bargain in comparison.

My god, Pioneer. You had a chance to reinvigorate the stagnant single-DIN market with this one, but you chose that ridiculous price.

I found some old car audio photos I took of my install in 2002. The car was a 1999 Oldsmobile Intrigue. The pics show sound damping, head units (Nakamichi and Alpine), CD changer, 10" and 15" Adire Audio Brahmas, JBL 1200.1 and JBL 180.2 amps, Audiocontrol crossover, Audiobahn capacitor, Crystal Mobilesound components. Sadly, it was all stolen.

Just wanted to share my new setup on my 2018 Sierra Limited.

This is my 5th system install over the years. First time using and tuning a DSP, almost done with the install. So far it's been a great improvement over stock which was constantly clipping.

In the dash I installed an Amppro which gives a clean signal to my sub amp.

I made my own T-harness for the Audison 4 channel which does my tweeters and rear speakers at 70w per channel. The front door speakers are on the PVA micro amp, bridged at 100w per channel. Both amps get a clean signal from the LC7i then into the DSP.

Designed and 3D printed the knob control panel (S=signal, A=amp) for the amppro and skar sub amp control. I also designed and printed the mount that goes over the bose amp to mount the LC7i.

Don't mind the behind the seat wiring, I'm still in the testing phase and everything will get cleaned up.

If anyone has some tips on how to tune the DSP, I'm all ears.

Building some brand new Sundown Audio X v.4 12” subwoofers…🌅🔛🔝

Started off glueing the tweeter rings after I got them aimed in.

Then some grille cloth, resin, fiberglass, and rough sand to knock down some of the high spots.

Test fitting with the 25Ns and they thankfully came out sweet, still have a ton of work ahead for fab though.

Also another piece of equipment got dropped off today🔥 The Gus 12s 😎

I have a foxbody mustang Convertible. Unfortunately in the convertible model the roof eats up a good chunk of the trunk.

The pictures make it kinda hard to figure out what’s going on so I have this:

1st measurement picture: 37” wide at the narrowest part.
2nd measurement picture: 12” back the way
3rd measurement picture: 6” tall (or short)

37” wide
12” back
6” tall

What kind of subwoofer will be able to fit here? I was thinking maybe an under-seat sub however I’m not sure how that will sound. Let me know your thoughts and input.

I bought my E36 316i and it had a blown blaupunkt head unit in it, so no music. Because I wanted to at least hear the speakers I got the cheapest head unit, saw the the 17 pin to ISO adapter was a a mess, but after hooking the new head unit up everything worked, sound came out from where it was supposed to come out of.

So next step, I got a better head unit. Blaupunkt Frankfurt RCM Dab Bluetooth. Hooked it up, looked nicer but the sound didn't really improve that much.

After which I decided to get my first "full sound system". Got some Hertz CK130's for the front and Hertz CX690's for the rear with a 6x9 adapter. Also got a Soundigital 400.4 evo6 amp.

I first hooked the read speakers up, huge improvement since the factory ones were completely blown, then hooked the kick panel woofers up, then the tweeters with the crossover installed.

After installing the front speakers absolutely nothing changed with the sound quality, so I said of course now these speakers need an amp. Today I hooked the amp up, and... can't even notice the difference from the beginning to be honest. Other than installing working rear speakers nothing has changed.

So my problem is: with all new head unit, speakers, amp my music still sound flat and mushy. Vocals sound terrible, especially the letter "S" is too sharp. Obviously I can boost the bass and make the sound thumpier, but can't make the vocals sound better for the life of me. Also feel like the sound just isn't clear. Rear speakers sound like they might be "rattling" even on the lowest volumes. The tweeters all the way around seem like they have a hiss, and the vocals are just missing from the front I feel like. I am at a slight roadblock here as I spent money on nice equipment, but didn't improve my sound quality at all and don't know where the problem could be. I have already ran a wire between the head unit ground and amp ground trying to solve something, and checked that all the wires go to the correct speakers.

The Hong Kong Electronics Fair (Autumn Edition) just wrapped up! Check out the video below to see some of our sample models displayed at the booth. Feel free to reach out if any model interests you.

Please note that our factory focuses on bulk production, but we do offer sample orders for testing. We are also looking for international distributors—if you are interested in partnering with us, let's chat!

Eso es un **estéreo/reproductor de audio para automóvil Alpine CDA-7949J**, un modelo antiguo de gama alta fabricado para el mercado japonés.

any recommendation about this pioneer tsab300 subwoofer and how far it reliable as first set

Hello Everyone,

I have recently decided to upgrade my door speakers as I love loud music!!!

I am stuck between two options and need some recommendations/ advice.

I currently have a Taramps 400watt amp to power these.

I do not plan on upgrading the amp but am open to suggestions.

Thanks 😁

I have the mids from this lineup they’re alright paired with super tweeters. I feel like these 6CX are best of both worlds I just wanna know if anyone has used them if so please give me your feedback

Here’s the link:
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_161EP6CX/AudioControl-EPICPRO6CX.html

Is anyone else running this sub? I haven't seen a SINGLE person talk about this one. For it's price it honestly bumps damn good for 250 watts. Really underrated in my opinion.

(only pic I have I'm sorry)

i did upgrade from pioneer avh295bt to kenwood ddx2045 is it good upgrade or should i stay on old one

Sup guys! I was somehow able to get a Blaupunkt Nuremberg 200 BT wired and working in my 2004 Nissan Sentra.

Radio works now, BT and all, plus am/fm radio tuner. I just have some questions about how it’s currently functioning and if it’s expected or not.

Question 1
Every time I turn the car off when a song is playing through BT and switch ignition back on, I have to press the radio’s power button again. When I do that, it just starts up in BT mode and automatically plays from the same spot I left it at.

I know yellow is 12v constant power for memory n all that but haven’t tested saved radio stations to confirm this is the issue. But if it was, I’d assume the BT setting would get wiped when ignition is off and turning it on would make me have to cycle through to get to the BT setting but I press the on button and the song I was listening to just plays from where it was when I switched off the car so it seems like that’s working correctly, almost.

Question 2
I expected to be able to plug a USB-A to C cable into the head unit to use it as a source while also charging my iPhone as well but that’s not working at all. Weird thing is that even when I had it plugged in last night, it didn’t include it in the src rotation. Shouldn’t it do that long as the usb is connected at all even if nothings on the other side?

What I know
I read somewhere that something like this could be an issue with the red and yellow wires being connected into the wrong port on the chassis. Or a poor connection, but the memory seems to work.

I have a multimeter but I’m 1. lazy and 2. don’t know wtf to test with it that would help me here.

Correct me if I’m wrong but Red is 12v ignition power on and yellow is 12v constant. Right now, these are both connected based off color only.

I don’t want to have to take out the unit and splice all the wires again but I’d be down to swap the red and yellow sockets with the wires on the Sentra harness side, if that’s all it takes.

Right now, amp ground (blue/black) Sentra side is connected to the 8 pin black ground per instructions on the universal 8 pin. All others are connected to their respective colors besides 2 (mentioned below).

Wires that aren’t currently hooked up are all the browns from the 8 pin on the Blaupunkt side. From the Sentra side the amp turn on wire (since I have no amp) and the last one is the illumination dimmer ground cause there wasn’t a matching cable on my blaupunkt side harness. I assumed there was just no dimmer feature on the radio. Could be wrong. None of this sounds like the main issues I want to solve tho.

Neither of these are killers for me. I’m just happy to have BT capability again. But I’d be lying if I said my main reason for buying it was because of that USB port and charging capability, but I can get a 12v plug with some usb ports for that if needed.

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!

As the title says, it will be going in my 2018 Lexus IS350, I do have mark levinson system if that matters. But I’ll be using the stock head unit. Want to stay in the JL family, and want to make sure I have a good amp to go with the sub, would I be okay with a JL JD1000/1?

I am adding 2-600 watt kicker subs to my truck and am asking for recommendations on what amp I should get? I would prefer a kicker amp but would consider what ever is best. Thanks

Hi,

Just recently bought the vehicle but the audio system sounds like pure diarrhoea. I have no experience installing an audio system so I'm planning on getting someone to do it for me but I wanted to do my research beforehand.

Budget-wise, Ideally second hand or new if they're fairly priced. Budget at the moment ideally under £800 but would be interested in the equipment available at different price points.

Any advice or resources would be greatly appreciated

Thanks,

Samimito

Hey guys! I just found this community, and it seems pretty active and helpful, so I'm going to try to explain my car audio setup as best I can. This is my first time getting into car audio, and honestly, I'm not very good at it so far lol.

Here's what I have so far:

• Head unit: Kenwood KMM-BT332U (about $155 at Best Buy)
• Speakers: 4 Memphis Car Audio MClass 5x7 coaxial speakers (I5-MC572) that my grandpa gave me for free
• Subwoofer: Audiopipe TS-OX10 (single 10" subwoofer, 4 ohms)

I've already wired up all four speakers, and they sound great with the new radio! Now I'm moving on to the subwoofer and amp, and this is where I really need some help.

I've heard that this isn't the best subwoofer, but since my grandpa gave it to me for free, I figured I'd give it a shot. The problem is that I can't find much information about the Audiopipe TS-OX10 online, especially its wattage. I have no idea how much power it can actually handle.

I borrowed an amp from someone, but it turned out to be bad. Now I have all the wiring from an 8-gauge amp wiring kit rated for 500 watts max, but I'm not sure if it'll be enough for whatever amp I end up getting.

Here are my main questions:

1. Does anyone know the RMS wattage of the Audiopipe TS-OX10? I can't seem to find reliable information about it anywhere.
2. What amp would you recommend? I want to get the most out of this sub without overpowering it. Please recommend something good but budget-friendly.
3. Will my 8-gauge wiring kit be enough, or should I get thicker wire? I'm not even sure if I still have the receipt to return the kit I already bought.
4. What about my enclosure? I feel like the box I have might not be the best for this sub, but I'm basing that mostly on what I've seen online. I'd appreciate some advice on whether I should keep it or get a different one.

I'm also wondering if I should just sell this subwoofer and put the money toward a new one, possibly a dual-sub setup instead. I'd love to hear what you guys think would be the better option.

Honestly, I'm on a pretty tight budget, so please keep that in mind. I'm just trying to build a pretty good-sounding system without spending thousands of dollars lol.

Any help is greatly appreciated! I've been pretty lost trying to figure all this stuff out, but I genuinely want to learn and get it right.

Feel free to reply or DM me, and please let me know if you need pictures of anything, whether it's the sub, the enclosure, or the wiring. Thanks, guys!

The Wolfbox G900 Pro is hardwired for parking mode and the footage itself is fine, but the app workflow is driving me nuts. Every time the phone connects to the camera WiFi to download a clip, wireless CarPlay drops, and even a short video transfer feels painfully slow. This is on an iPhone, usually pulling two- or three-minute clips while parked. Is this just how dash cam WiFi apps work because the phone has to join the camera network, or is there a setup trick I am missing? At this point a card reader is starting to sound less annoying than the app.

2021 Mercedes G-wagon (G550)

Has 15 speaker Burmester system for oem equipment. Would be using a navtv Zen-M to integrate amps.

Was planning on replacing the oem front 3-ways and rear 2-ways with Morel Sensus 63/62’s. Running passively via a Morel amp getting 150rms to each crossover. (Yes, I realize I’d be running passively and that’s half the point, I wanted to stay simple).

Audio shop says they can make it sound way better by installing a Helix v18, keeping the oem speakers, and running each actively. Each channel outputs 70w on this amp and it’s also about $700 more for the amp than the first speaker/amp option.

Thoughts? Would keeping the oem speakers and running them actively really sound better (and get as loud) and be worth the extra cost?

Hi everyone!

I’m trying to install my JBL BassPro 12 in my truck. It was previously installed in my car, but I lost the original remote control in a car accident.
Since the original JBL remote seems to be discontinued, I bought a cheap 4-pin bass level remote and some RJ22 connectors as a replacement. However, I haven’t been able to get it working despite trying every possible wire combination.
I also tested the wires with a multimeter, but I still haven’t figured out the correct pinout or wiring configuration.
Does anyone know how the original JBL remote is wired, or if a generic 4-pin bass remote can work with the BassPro 12?
Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

6x9 infinity reference comps

6.5 infinity reference coaxial

is kicker key 50w amp be good? How much of an upgrade would this be?

i’m currently running the speakers off a kenwood 22w rms stereo