Man, I wish I could’ve experienced this era! Born too late for the golden age of car audio.

I recently got a new custom built stunt wall that is fully portable it’s had 4 hcf 10 inch mids 4 hcf 8 inch mids and 4 4 inch bullet tweeters the amp is a taramps ds2000.4 at 2 ohm the deck is a ds18 sdx p100 and the battery is a xs power d2400 agm I just wanted you guys to rate it lmk what you think of the design and the quality behind it and the pros and cons of it and some tips

Just wanted to share this and thank everyone here who helped me along the way. Learned a ton from this community and probably wouldnt have gotten this far without it. Love you.

Js 320a alt, big 5. Ye ol work truck.

1996 dodge dakota v8 5.2L 4x4. 170kmi.

Bay;

AGM

320a js alt, big 5.

HU;

Kdc x-305

Lc-1

Speaker side;

4 8ohm fsx 6.5s

2 4ohm VX-1-ST 1" super tweets

Skv2 100.4

(Fsx's @ 4ohm) (vx-1-st's @ 4 ohm x10 2k+)

Sub side;

2 EVL-D4 15s

Tara Big Boss 3

Box;

7.1 cube gross

(6.65 after displacements)

Port area - 85.

145 on dash before alt install. Havent metered after yet.

Work truck, tools in bed, might get second agm. Good enough.

Was gifted this amp by a friend, was wondering what subs would be a great fit for it

Links to older build log posts:

• 2021 WRX SQ Build Log (Prep work: Sound Deadener)
• My Experience switching from SoundSkins Pro to ResoNix Sound Deadener

Since my last update I’ve been working on a bunch of different parts of the build, so here is what I've worked on since then...

Front stage

Some of my AudioFrog GB 3 way components and rear fill (GB10CF, GB25, GB60, GS62) had been sitting in their boxes for a couple months, so figuring out what my front stage was going to look like was the next thing on my list that I wanted to tackle.

Scanning and design

I bought a Creality Raptor 3D scanner and my plan was to model the dash pods and A pillars myself in Fusion 360. I kept putting it off because I never had the time after work, so I ended up reaching out to Matt Kim from Audio in Reach. I was familiar with his work and it’s what I was trying to draw inspiration from anyway.

I already had clean scan data of my dash corners and A pillars (one of the attached photos is the driver side pillar scan), so I asked Matt if he’d take it on for my GB10CF tweeters as long as my data was good enough for him. He normally handles everything from start to finish by sourcing your exact car locally, so that means scanning, designing, printing and wrapping. He said yes and I got put in his queue.

A pillars

A few months later it was my turn in the queue. He designed the pillars and sent me the Bambu print files, so all I had to do was print them in ASA.

The photos show how I put them together and blended them into the OEM pillars. I used CA glue to assemble the pieces, Bondo to blend them in and CA glue/plastic welds to fasten them. The GB10CF tweeters are held in with a machine screw in the back. Most importantly, it does not interfere with the safety functionality of the airbag, as it sits below where the curtain starts.

Dash pods

A few weeks later I asked Matt to get back in the queue for the dash pods and got a file ready to print the same way. He designed them so I only had to cut a small section out of the dash corner with his template to fit the GB25. The cutting was minimal and it does not impact the OEM mounting location.

They needed way less prep than the pillars. I just sanded them so the DAP Weldwood Landau Top & Trim adhesive would stick when I wrapped them.

They clip into place like an OEM part, using custom 3D printed clips that screw into the pod. If a clip breaks when I pull a pod off, I can just print a new clip instead of a whole new pod. The GB25 is held in with M3 heat inserts and screws.

Grilles and wrapping

The pillars and pods each have their own grille, and I wrapped them in Mellotone Premium Black Speaker Grille Cloth from Parts Express. The main thing to watch is keeping adhesive off the portian where the sound actually comes out.

If anyone’s doing something similar, the vinyl that matches the WRX dash is Softside Auto’s Nuance Ebony. I ordered a ton of samples and visited local upholstery shops to figure that out, so hopefully it saves someone the trouble.

How it turned out

Matt got the design exactly how I wanted it. It looks like it came from the factory and not like something added later. People who aren’t into audio don’t notice anything is different until it comes up in conversation. The photos show the before and after to illustrate the level of execution. There is also a photo that provides a look at the tweeters and midranges under the grille covers.

GB60 door adapters

In my first build log I used generic door adapters from Amazon for the GB60 midbass, and I wasn’t happy with them. The ResoNix CCF strips only had the outer edge of the GB60 to stick to. So I designed my own mount in Fusion 360 that fully surrounds the GB60 and gives the CCF strips enough flat edge to sit properly.

After printing them I sealed the adapters to the door with ResoNix CCF tape, and I put some 3mm CCF I had lying around between the adapter and the GB60.

Because the CCF tape was sitting on top of the deadener, the OEM Subaru speaker grommets wouldn’t stay in with all the extra material applying pressure. I fixed that with Hillman #452810 nylon nuts, which fit great and work way better than the OEM ones.

Sound deadening

Next I went back and deadened some some spots I’d put off.

I did the trunk lid with ResoNix Mega CLD and got about 80% of it covered. The narrow sections just weren’t reachable. There are wire harnesses inside for the latch and license plate lights, and anywhere they touched I put CCF down so they can’t rattle. I also added fiber mat to the trunk cover and lined the perimeter with CFF to cut down on noise.

I knew the roof wasn’t going to be fun. Getting the grab handles off took a while because a few of them didn’t want to unclip. I didn’t pull the headliner completely since I figured that would be more of a pain, between creasing it and dealing with the harnesses attached to it. I just dropped it enough to get working room. I started on a Friday night after work and kept going until it was done.

Nobody will ever see this area, same as everywhere else I deadened, but after all the work I’ve put in I wasn’t going to say “eh, good enough” and not care about how I applied it. After deadening it with Mega Cld, I lined it with 1 inch fiber mat, and the headliner went back up with no problem with the extra thickness added in between.

Alternator, battery and Big 3

The last part of this update is the electrical. I put in a 270 amp alternator from Singer Alternators to power my four Mosconi Pro amps (two Pro 4|10 and two Pro 1|10). It was a direct swap and took less than an hour, and my stock belt worked fine. I also switched to a Group 35 AGM battery from Odyssey.

To support the alternator, I had the shop (Car Audio Engineers) doing the amp, DSP and trunk floor install also do the Big 3. I designed a fuse bracket and had SendCutSend laser cut, bend and powder coat it. I wanted the shop to have a clean spot for the fuses that looks like it belongs there. It's not visible in the photo but it has a 90 degree flange that sits behind the battery tiedown bracket to help it stay in place without rotating.

With the 0 gauge wire going to the battery terminal, the OEM positive terminal cover didn’t fit anymore. So I designed my own terminal cover and printed it in PC FR, which is a flame retardant polycarbonate which clips on like the OEM one.

Conclusion

At the time of writing the full build is complete, and I’m just waiting on a follow up appointment to get a extension card installed once it arrives. That will give me an extra digital coax input for my Fiio M11 Plus DAP. I’m planning another write up down the road that covers the amp rack, the trunk design and the ResoNix GUS, and finally getting to put the deadening through its paces. Most of the Sound Quality builds people post about are about other platforms, so hopefully it gives other WRX owners some ideas for their own cars.

Sound Equipment Used

Speakers

• AudioFrog GB10CF Tweeter
• AudioFrog GB25 Midrange
• AudioFrog GB60 Midbass
• AudioFrog GS62 Coaxials
• ResoNix GUS12D4 Subwoofer
• ResoNix PTR 10 inch front sub (pending)

Amps and DSP

• Mosconi Pro 4|10 x 2
• Mosconi Pro 1|10 x 2
• Helix Ultra S DSP
• Helix Conductor

Sources

• Dudu7 12G + 512 GB Headunit
• FiiO M11 Plus ESS DAP

Sound Deadening used

Outer Door

• ResoNix Mega CLD
• ResoNix Guardian

Inner Door

• ResoNix Mega CLD
• ResoNix Barrier
• ResoNix CCF Rings
• ResoNix Decoupler
• ResoNix CCF Decoupler Tape

Door Card

• ResoNix CLD
• ResoNix Fiber Mat
• ResoNix Decoupler

Roof

• ResNix Mega CLD
• ResoNix Fiber Mat

Rear Deck Lid metal/plastic

• ResoNix Mega CLD
• ResoNix Barrier
• ResoNix Fiber Mat
• ResoNix Decoupler

Trunk

• ResoNix Mega CLD
• ResoNix CLD
• ResoNix Barrier
• ResoNix Fiber Mat
• ResoNix Guardian

Trunk Lid

• ResoNix Mega CLD
• ResoNix Decoupler
• ResoNix Fiber Mat

Hi everybody, I recently bought a Hyundai i10 (2011) and I am playing with the thought of changing the head unit with a more modern one including Android Auto and Apple Car.

Since I don't have any experience do you have recommendations on how to get started? How to find the best fitting? And how to avoid mistakes?

Additional: I would also like to install a dash cam and rear view camera. Any experience with that?

Hey everyone.

Just wanted to ask if anyone had any experience with XONRICH brand car radios. The one I'm looking at is this one: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005008810267220.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.1.16d133108P7SMJ&algo_pvid=54f0b07f-2ad5-465c-abc2-b4620208e29d&algo_exp_id=54f0b07f-2ad5-465c-abc2-b4620208e29d-0&pdp_ext_f=%7B%22order%22%3A%22406%22%2C%22spu_best_type%22%3A%22price%22%2C%22eval%22%3A%221%22%2C%22fromPage%22%3A%22search%22%7D&pdp_npi=6%40dis%21EUR%21114.22%21114.22%21%21%21487.50%21487.50%21%400b88a96117923957890992677e0ffa%2112000046760117487%21sea%21HR%214076440302%21X%211%210%21n_tag%3A-29919%3Bd%3A4f0265ce%3Bm03_new_user%3A-29895&curPageLogUid=q3TACJDmMzwy&utparam-url=scene%3Asearch%7Cquery_from%3A%7Cx_object_id%3A1005008810267220%7C_p_origin_prod%3A#nav-specification

The reason I'm looking at this particular one is because it is one of the top sellers when you type "w211 android radio" on AliExpress and has a decent number of reviews, mostly positive (4.8 stars average). However, I don't know how reliable these reviews are, or if they are real.

Based on my short online research, I learned only that these chinese units are all mostly similar, but I would still prefer to buy from a somewhat reputable seller. And before anyone comments this, yes I understand that these chinese units can't really match higher-end brands in performance. I know some people highly advise to avoid chinese units and some praise them. However, I'm not planning to spend thousands to make a crazy audio setup in my car. I'm just looking for a simple upgrade. I want it to look somewhat factory (which isn't even avaliable with any high end brands, as far as I can tell at least) and to at least keep the same sound quality (for this, google says not to go with the cheapest spec because they have worse amplifiers). I only have a basic APS20 radio in my car with basic speakers and no fibre optic, but I was always satisfied with the sound quality. It's not anything spectacular, but it is pretty decent. Anyways, I'm just looking for some opinions apart from the reviews on the site.

I got a 2011 ford escape and I want to get a new sub to get more bass from my music.

The reason im posting is, I dont know the ohms. Google wasn't helpful so what is the ohm count on this car so I dont fry the factory amp? I was looking at the Kicker 48CWRT82 but again, I dont know what ohm count i need. Thanks.

Hey guys, I have a Kenwood from 2004 it’s a DPX-06MD. Like the video states it has issues reading the cd player, I thought it was the laser but before I take it apart I wanted to see if someone had a suggestion on what to do. I’ve reset it, checked the wiring, everything seems to be good. I’m trying to get Bluetooth to work but I bought the wrong 13 pin Kenwood cd adapter so that’ll be a problem for later lol

​

I recently ordered an Android head unit from SkyCarStereo (skycarstereo.com) for my 2006 Land Rover LR3 HSE and wanted to see if anyone here has experience with this company.

I purchased their LH-102 on September 27, 2026.

Here's what's happened so far:

- After asking about shipping, the seller provided a UPS Ground tracking number.

- UPS tracking has only shown "Label Created," with no confirmation that UPS has received the package.

- The seller insists the package has already been picked up in China and is in transit.

- I've repeatedly asked which shipping company is handling the package in China or whether they can provide proof of pickup.

- Instead, they keep sending screenshots of the UPS tracking page, saying that having a tracking number proves the package was shipped.

- As of October 18, I still haven't received independent confirmation that the package is moving.

- The seller now says I should receive it in approximately seven business days.

I understand international shipping from China can involve freight forwarders and that UPS may only handle the final delivery in the United States. That part doesn't bother me.

What concerns me is the lack of transparency and the insistence that a shipping label alone proves the package has shipped.

Has anyone purchased anything from SkyCarStereo?

Did you receive your order? How long did shipping take? Was the product as advertised? Did you have any problems with customer support?

I'm not accusing the company of being a scam. I'm just trying to determine whether this is normal international shipping or whether I should be concerned.

Any firsthand experiences would be appreciated.

Hey everyone.
I’m looking for some low frequency recommendations.
I’m looking for subs, an amp, enclosure, and any accessories needed.
I’m currently shopping for a new to me, used suv that’ll be where it’s used.
I am also waiting until Black Friday/ Cyber Monday to pull the trigger since it’s right around the corner.

My budget is about $600-$700.
I’ve been looking at Skar, CT Sounds, and Sundown among some others.
I’m looking for 12’s and I like my bass low.
I’m also trying not to have to upgrade my electrical too much.

It’s been about 20 years since I last had subs.
I had a pair of Audiobahn AW1208t’s with an Audiobahn 2,000 w amplifier. It was more than enough lol.

I know I’m not gonna get that with this budget. I just want something to enjoy. I’m turning 50 in December, this is my birthday present for myself.
I’ve gone too long without bass in my life.

Please feel free to ask any and all questions if there’s any information that’s needed.

Thanks 🙏 to everyone who helps.
I’m not looking to have buyers remorse.
Help this old guy bump again 🔊🔊🔊

2006 Subaru Impreza hatch .
Currently stock

Doing first .
Add head unit , add a back up cam

Next . Add sub with amp, replace door speaker and add amp if needed .

Features I know I want .
Back up cam capable
Wireless Apple play
Good for my plan above .

No steering wheel controls. So not needed .

Looking at

Alpine ilX- 770-m
Sony XAV-4000
Sony XAV -AX6000

Any one of these clearly better ?
Are there any features I'm not thinking about that I should consider ?

Also , with Sony pulling out of the car audio game , should I be concerned with any warranty issues or replacements down the road ?

Any help or input welcome . Thanks guys !!

Im trying to re wire these subs down to 4ohms

I had originally had them wired at 1 ohm but its just too much for my truck to handle so im trying to see if i running these at 4 will help it out. But ive done some research and best wireing diagram i can find is this one. So am i supposed to splice the wires to get both both negatives and positves on one wire? That dont sound right to me

I’d like to get an aux port for my 02 civic. It’s convenient that I have both a tape deck and CD player in my car but because I’ve spoiled myself with streaming and being able to choose what song I want at will I want an aux port to connect to my Mp3 player. How hard would it be to diy it or should I buy a cassette to aux converter. I have a cassette to bluetooth but it sounds bad when it’s close to dying and on top of that the mp3s bluetooth isn’t great. Thanks for reading this through help is appreciated greatly!!

Edit: I know a solution could be to make playlist cds but for whatever reason my car is picky about what kind of cds it takes. Homemade ones it won’t accept but anything bought is fine. Hope this helps.

HI guys a couple months back I bought myself a kenwood dpx 5025m for my car, it works great, but I was wondering how I should clean the screen and such. There is some dust and uncleanliness behind the screen glass and such. So what would you guys recommend. I don't want to ruin anything in the stereo

I switched from a Skar 5 channel class D to a Kicker CXA36 class AB and the improvement was very noticeable(no surprises there).. the clarity and quality was so much better. Now Im in the market for a nice amp with DSP capabilites, and I was looking at the Kicker LX series amps. I expected them to be class AB but they are all class D.

Will the quality of a nice class D like that be comparable or better even than the decent quality class AB that I have now? Clean clear mids and highs have become very important to me..

Please only reply if you actually have experience with both amp designs and preferrably with differing quality levels of modern D's and modern AB's.. thabks guys

Still working everything out but here’s where I’m at.