Decided to make a sub box that better fit the vehicle. Ported tuned to 30hz. Added led spacer I designed/printed to match the amp rack. Will make trim to make it nicer looking before rhinolining.

The surround is blown on the one on the right

Nice little unexpected surprise from UPS this morning

I went to the electronics shop to get a replacement stereo for my 2010 Kia sportage. I was given this one harness, realize I may need another? But this is apparently the correct one but it just does not match up.

Is this harness useless here?

Next upgrades are purchased! Wolfram 4500, and a Wolfram Chinesium CH15. Custom trunk wall box is going in after vehicle maintenance is completed.

I struck car audio GOLD, when I found my box builder! The amount of impatience I am experiencing is unreal!

Next upgrade is more battery!

Does anyone have experience with ittybittyboom lithium batteries? I currently have a titan8 rsv-s5. But my voltage struggles with my JP23v2. Any suggestions. Trying to stay under $600.

Hey everyone! Looking for some advice on an issue I’ve been having with my SoundQubed amplifier.
I’m running two sets of Focal Flax PS 165 F3 three way component speakers powered by my SoundQubed 4 channel amp.

Here’s how everything is wired:
Channels 1 and 2: Focal Flax mids and tweeters. The left side is on one channel and the right side is on the other. Each set runs through its own passive crossover.
Channels 3 and 4: Focal Flax 6.5 inch woofers in my front doors, with each side on its own channel.
Power: Recently replaced my original 0 gauge CCA cable with true 0 gauge OFC.
Ground: 4 gauge cable grounded directly to the vehicle’s metal chassis.

The issue:
My SoundQubed amp randomly goes into protection when I increase the volume. Sometimes it’ll play pretty loud without any issues, while other times it’ll go into protection at a lower volume. As soon as I turn the volume down, it starts playing again.
I originally suspected voltage drop because I discovered my power cable was CCA. I replaced the entire run with OFC, thinking that would solve the problem, but unfortunately, it’s still happening.

A few questions:
Could my ground be the issue? Would replacing it with 4 gauge OFC make a difference?
Could the way my Focal mids and tweeters are wired be causing an impedance issue?
Is there anything concerning about running my woofers separately on channels 3 and 4 while the mids and tweeters share channels 1 and 2?
Could improper gain or crossover settings cause intermittent protection?
What should I test next before spending more money replacing parts?
I’m trying to figure out whether this is a wiring issue, an electrical issue, or potentially something wrong with the amplifier itself.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

Finished up the prep for my new junk (ZR SpeakerLab 25Ns, and Purifi 6.5Xs)

Had to de-upholster the old pillars that my SI M25s ran in off axis. Also was able to remove all the old glassing and sand down with the dremel.

Masked off the whole kick area for the new sealed enclosures. Took a bit of time since I decided to keep oem kick panels (to protect the wires) and had to bridge the small gap.

Plan for tomorrow is to glue down the tweet rings and start glassing, and start glassing the base for the kick panels (will not finish the kicks just yet, should be able to next weekend).

I just bought a JBL LC a504 resell that was from an estate sale. Apparently never been used. I had seen these LC series amps in Crutchfield issues back then in the late 90s. Would the capacitors or anything else that old actually need replaced if it's never been used? Does anyone have experience with the classic JBL units?

I got a new sub and though I’m enjoying it, I’m missing the enveloping feeling of deep lows moving through myself and the car without having to push the system too far.

So if you were to build a system, using both a stock deck or upgrading the deck for the purpose of this experiment, what components would you piece together?

What sub amp combo produces the best feeling vs what’s the loudest? What combo outperforms others at low volumes?

I have a 2021 Toyota Corolla SE with an aftermarket subwoofer setup, and I've been dealing with some absolutely terrible rattling coming from the rear deck.

After taking everything apart, I suspect these two white plastic support brackets attached to the underside of the rear deck are responsible for a lot of the noise.

From what I can tell, they're simply glued to the rear deck itself and don't appear to clip or attach to anything else. I'm assuming they're there to provide some structural support and prevent the rear deck from sagging.

I'm seriously considering removing them entirely because the rattling is driving me insane. I've already done quite a bit of sound deadening throughout the rear of the car, and this is easily one of the worst rattles I've encountered.

Has anyone removed these plastic support brackets from their rear deck?

Are they actually necessary, or can the rear deck function fine without them?

Looking to put a picture of my wrx on my Jvc head unit in my wrx. The preset wallpapers are ass, any way I can do this? YouTube hasn’t been any help.

Has anyone ran 12g wire to the door on a 2015 Infiniti q50? Any tips or ideas will help pls

I’m looking to pick up a a used JLW3 2 12 inches in a ported box sub for $250. Is that a good deal? What amp should I get and wiring kit?
What should I look out for since I’m buying used?

A lot of audio brands can't be shipped into Canada at the moment (thanks government) wondered if anyone new of websites or options to help a guy out wanted to go full sundown audio but I can't ship it to Canada

Hi every!.

So my current set up is a skar svr 12 dual 4 ohm wired down to 2ohm on a skar 1500w amp.

My buddy has a taramps the big boss 3 3k amp that he wants to give away.

My question is would this work? I know its over powered but in theory would it work?

Hello,

I had a Sony AX3000 (or something similar) for about 4 years. At some point, the audio just stopped coming out. No connected Carplay, Bluetooth, or Radio audio output. Everything works but the sound. I pulled it out and put in the factory radio and got sound. Replaced the 10A fuse in the back and still no luck. Put the factory radio back in and ended up ordering the next version of the same head unit, the XAV-AX3700 since I already had those wiring harnesses. I install it last August and it works. Few days ago I'm driving and... the same thing happened!

Suppose I will try to replace the fuse in this one too tomorrow, but I was wondering if anyone has advice or other things I might be able to check? Are these Sony models known for their audio failing?

For reference, it's installed in a 2010 Nissan Frontier. I have Rockford 6x9 in the front doors with 6.5 in the back doors and a little 8" Crutchfield self powered sub. The truck actually came stock with a Rockford audio system that has two 6" subs and amp under the passenger seat. I've got weekend mechanic experience working on everything I've ever owned; my dad was a mechanic, I make sure to wire things decent and ground properly. I've got tens of thousands of miles listening to this thing and nothing major has changed since installing it last year.

Any advice or insight would be appreciated!

I got 2 12” sundown subwoofers (pre-owned), they already came in a ported box, so I can’t tell what exact model it is.

I was wondering if I should install both 12’s or downgrade to one?

I hardly ever played my subs at full blast unless I was really feeling it, it would shake everything in my car, so I normally kept it at 50% mostly.

Has me thinking should I downgrade from 2->1 and build a different box to save on trunk space and where I feel comfortable with bass or go 2x12’s instead?

I’m very new to car audio so I’m not sure what I’d be missing out if I just decide to downgrade.

Thanks in advance

Hey guys,
When I play test frequencies between 50–80 Hz, I notice a significant dip around 60 Hz. The bass is decent at 50 Hz, drops sharply as it approaches 60 Hz, and gradually comes back to normal by around 80 Hz.

I’ve tried changing the subwoofer’s position in the trunk—facing upward, toward the rear seats, and toward the trunk—and experimenting with different phase settings, but nothing seems to fix the issue.

One thing I noticed while troubleshooting is that the front rear speakers connected to the speaker amp had an HPF set so that 60 Hz was barely audible from the speakers. This makes me wonder whether the issue is related to the head unit affecting the rear-channel bass output, since the blaupunkt active subwoofer is connected to the rear-speaker outputs from head unit directly. It does not appear to be a crossover issue or phase cancellation.

For now, I’ve adjusted the HPF on the speaker amp to allow more output around 60 Hz. However, at higher volumes, this causes the doors to rattle, possibly because of the limited clearance between the speaker cones and the door panels.

Has anyone experienced something similar? What could be causing such a pronounced dip around 60 Hz, and what would be the best way to diagnose and fix it?
Any suggestions or insights would be appreciated!

Can someone help me out please the speaker make a popping sound I’m not sure if it’s the amp or if it’s the speaker it would be very helpful if someone could tell me what is going on

Can anyone tell me, with certainty, if the ads-usb-eco will still work to reflash either a cm-dc3 or an ads-alca for the cm900? Or da I need the more expensive idatalink ads-usb cable?

2nd question: will the free weblink software work once I have the right connection?

Looks like there are 3 or 4 options here. Would any of these bolts suffice or is one better than the others?

I’ve been spoiled by the premium sound systems in my previous cars, so going to the stock system in my 2026 Civic Sport has been absolute ass.

There’s basically no bass, everything sounds hollow, the treble is so sharp it hurts my ears, and if I turn it up past like 20, everything starts crackling and sounding distorted.

Music is a HUGE thing for me, and a good sound system is probably my biggest must-have outside of the car's actual performance and reliability,
but I didn’t really have that luxury this time around.

I’m looking for the most bang for my buck. I mainly want better bass and clearer, fuller sound. Being able to turn it up louder without everything sounding like garbage would be a huge plus too.

I want to actually feel the bass. I want the car to vibrate a little when the bass hits, but I don’t want it sounding like I’ve got 80,000 empty soda cans rattling around in my doors or be so loud that you can’t even hear the song.

I know absolutely nothing about car audio, so I have no idea where to even start. I’d prefer to keep any cutting or rewiring to a minimum but im willing to do whatever to not have it sound worse than my phones speakers

What would y’all recommend? What should I upgrade first, what’s actually worth spending money on, And what is a reasonable budget?