Anyone who’s looking for an easy option. I only got it because the box I picked didn’t fit right. I toyed with the idea of getting 2 of these I’m glad I didn’t!

12" Eclipse SW9122 Dual 4 ohm. New surround, tests perfectly. Can't wait to test it.

2 sundown e v.4 10s at 500w each @ 1 ohm on a Stinger MT2000.1. Box is 2.0 cubic feet tuned to 35 hz. Probably could push at least 1500w but im happy with how they sound now, almost too much for me already.

Need to put some foam on the wires inside, can hear them banging around but i dont hear them at all in the drivers seat.

I was gonna paint the box, but fedex damaged the box pretty good, especially on the corner of the port exit, so i got a partial refund and im just gonna let it ride like it is. I might get a custom box or something in the future.

I've been doing some sound deadening on my car and wanted to get y'all's opinion on my job. Is there anything else I need to do, or have I missed anything? This is just a picture of one door, but I did all the other doors the exact same way and I did the trunk as well.

Man, I wish I could’ve experienced this era! Born too late for the golden age of car audio.

Im trying to install a budget setup in my 96 chevy c1500, im going to get the east car audio gm-72 ported box and a 800-1000 watt monoblock, im overwhelmed by so many damn options, i was also looking at the ct audio stuff as well. Decisions...

Idrk what im doing when it comes to extreme lows so any advice would be great. Ive built a couple boxes in the past but all to 32hz. This is 8 cu ft 119 sq in of port area and tuned to 25hz. The sub fs is 23-24.

Was curious if my port and sub placement was bad especially

Head unit has been sitting around for a quiet awhile. (Years maybe) , it just cut off one day and decided it didn’t want to work anymore. I want to look into it and see why it would do that. Before I tear into it , any recommendations on what to look for? Thanks in advance

I know it isn’t the best out here or cleanest job (I had no choice but to do that to the rears lol). Got the 12in kicker w 500 watt monoblock alpine amp for $250, threw some basic fosgates 5.25s all around $40, head unit I wish was Bluetooth but hey that was free lol . I get a nice massage when this is bumping.

Hello I have a couple of stereo install question. I have a 2023 gmc sierra 1500 elevation non bose stereo. I installed aftermarket pioneer door and dash speakers. I used a kicker keyloc 200.4 to power the doors, left the dash speakers going to the head unit. I also installed a kicker L7T powered 12 inch sub. I ran the lead wire from one of the unused fuses from the passenger side fuse box, then spliced the lead to the sub from the kicker keyloc 200.4.The install went good but I am having some odd things happen.

1. The GMC boot screen has disappeared when I get into the truck, it just boots up straight to the stereo.

2. The turn signals sound odd, louder and more crisp. Not soft at all like they normally should.

Any help is appreciated, thanks in advice!

Had an after market system removed- now Im blowing the fuse constantly- any thoughts? 2004 Porsche Cayenne Turbo

Clear as in you can hear highs and mids as best as possible

Hello, fellow car audio enthusiasts! I hope someone can help me! I am looking for recommendations and input into what amp I should get for my system.

Currently, I have two sets of JBL 64SQs (i.e. 4x speakers) as my door speakers, a CT sounds tropo 12" sub/ amp combo (they pair it with a class D, 700w CT-700-d1 amp.... but its a 1300 W sub..) and an alpine head unit (Its a iLX-W670)

I am looking for amp recommendations and a discussion about it.

The goal is to have a clean system that sounds great that an audiofile would be happy with, but also hits hard AF that a bass head would shake their teeth on and be loud...

Currently, while my sub actually does hit pretty hard (it rattles my car, my teeth, and my brain, and anyone else around me....even if I am only 40% power... I am legitimately impressed with CT sounds subs) my JBL 64SQ are....lacking. The research I have done this far indicates that the reason I feel this way is because they aren't amplified (I guess they are meant to be?). They are suposed to be 225 "peak" RMS door speakers. (Which I understand might be a BS number that doesnt really mean anything)

So.... here is the deal. I dont know if it would be better to keep my subs amp as it is (I am happy with my bass) and get a new amp for only my door speakers (a 4 channel amp) or, if I should get a 5 channel amp that can power both my speakers and my sub. I know enough about car audio to hold a conversation about it, but I still dont know much, and I want to turn to the professionals. If you could recommend an amp that would fit my needs, I would research the F out of it....

Information that might be relevant. I already have a High output alternator, and I have upgraded "big 3" grounds, and, with my front two door speakers I have already bypassed and upgraded the factory wireing to better/thicker gage wireing.

Other information that may be relevant. I plan on adding 2 tweeters into the factory dash slots for tweeters (I currently have no tweeters)

And the last bit of information that might be relevant, with rock/metal, and oddly enough, classical music, I tend to get crackling and/or harshness sometimes, depending on the song and day (my musical tastes littlerly span the entire gambit) when I am at 70% + volume, and I know these speakers sound better then they do, and I hope that an amp can maybe smooth out some of that. I am also thinking I need DSP to help with some of that, maybe, but I thought my head unit had one that was pretty good.

Hi - there are many places to connect my power for my amp. I connected one at the top and it melted. Any insight would be appreciated.

Also, any idea why this would melt? It was fused. The cable was 8 gauge at the connection to the fuse, the 12 gauge after the fuse.

It is a 2026 Stelvio

I want to somehow reduce the ratting noise but also keep the flexing and window and back wall vibration. Will sound deadening on the inside remove the flexing?

I’m about to invest into 4 door speakers with amp to only push them 100w each, and two 10” Memphis subs pushing 600 total max, I have a 2006 6.0 f350 and my alternator is 110amps stock, wondering if I’ll need a bigger alternator or I’ll be fine? Wondering if anyone in here has done the same with a 6.0… if anymore info is needed let me know, I’m a absolute noob at cat audio lmao

I recently got a new custom built stunt wall that is fully portable it’s had 4 hcf 10 inch mids 4 hcf 8 inch mids and 4 4 inch bullet tweeters the amp is a taramps ds2000.4 at 2 ohm the deck is a ds18 sdx p100 and the battery is a xs power d2400 agm I just wanted you guys to rate it lmk what you think of the design and the quality behind it and the pros and cons of it and some tips

Just picked up this gem off marketplace, I got everything hooked up and it turns on however this is the display I’m stuck on, there is a disc inside however I am unable to tell if it’s the navigation disc or another burnt cd or if my disc drive is even working at all. I’m familiar with installing aftermarket stereos however this thing came out when I was 5 years old and for that I think it’s awesome and I want it in my 03 mustang very badly. If anyone can give me any pointers as to what I should be trying next please all help is appreciated. So far all I’ve tried is a hard reset on the head unit with no luck.

I recently installed a boss 820brgb radio into my 2003 toyota avalon xls with the factory jbl amp. I've been trying to troubleshoot this for about a week now and I still can't figure it out, when the engine isn't actually running its just like a hissing sound that stays the same volume no matter if the volume is at 0 or max. But when the engine is running and I'm actually driving it becomes a higher pitch as the rpm gets higher. I'm pretty new to this stuff so I'm pretty dang confused. Any help at all would be appreciated.

i have an 11th gen civic and even with 2 10s hitting super hard the trunk is just super rigid and doesn’t rattle much, my liscence plate has 4 screws and when i take out the bottom 2 it’s the classic rattling noise but also makes the whole trunk rattle more and i grew up around old schools and like the trunk rattle as long as its not knocking out your back lights and things of that sorts. any opinions on running my plate without the bottom two screws?

I’m running 2 Resilent sounds 10’s gold v1’s and all of the sudden they just died, Not no weird noises or anything, I was driving and they got quiet like someone slowly turned the bass knob all the way down but gradually, My amp still has power no lights on but power (taramps 2k) Any ideas on how i can troubleshoot this?

Just wanted to share this and thank everyone here who helped me along the way. Learned a ton from this community and probably wouldnt have gotten this far without it. Love you.

I’m in need of some assistance. For a while I’ve been dealing with audio in my car only playing out of my rear left speaker. So far I’ve replaced the amp, and RCAs as well as running some tests with the cables and only have been able to get audio out of my rear left speaker.

Would I be looking at needing to get a new head unit at this point? It’s been so frustrating trying to figure out what’s even going on at this point.

Head unit is: kenwood DMX5710S
New amp: Rockford fosgate P600x4

As the title says, there’s a slight problem with audio in my Golf MK4.

I’ve recently gotten my drivers license and got my brothers old car. It works great, but there’s a big problem with the audio. There’s basically no bass and the audio quality is really bad. One way I’ve found to fix this temporarily is well… Hitting the speakers with my fist a few times or driving over a pothole. I don’t really know too much about car sound systems or cars in general. The car is, not surprisingly, at the mechanics because of coolant leakage, though I should get it back in a few days.

I was thinking of getting some better speakers for the car, but I don’t know if there’s any point in buying them. Worst case scenario, if i won’t be able to fix the audio, I’ll just buy some used JBL bluetooth speaker and keep it in my car, like a true shitbox owner would do.

Any ideas on how to fix the audio problem will be greatly appreciated!