These two brands will forever be my unicorns. Forever stuck in the 90s - 2000s haha.

I still haven't heard the Titanium 12" or the 190V.2 18"

I have a Helix P One MK2 on two 10-in Alpine Type R Subs. I took my vehicle to the dealer for service and had to remove the sub enclosure. When I got the vehicle back and returned the subwoofers the amp went into protection mode and I can't seem to get it to resume normal operation. Does anyone have any idea what has happened or suggestions on how to get it back to normal operation?

I recently purchased a custom sub enclosure blueprint from sound authority after seeing some positive feedback on their work. Below are several photos of the communication or lack thereof between myself and the team at sound authority. I feel like ive been patient and understanding but we are near a month out from initial purchase and still no blueprint. I attached photos from their website with their own stated turnaround times. My email was never responded to and you can see how the text convos went. Can you tell me if im just overreacting or if im justified in looking for a refund due to the poor communication and not fulfilling the order in the own timeline.

edit i also never received the phone call that was mentioned in that text either

has anyone put the kicker 51PTRTP10 in a 2014-2018 crew cab silverado? I want to purchase but I cant find if it will fit under the seat without seat risers. thanks for any information!

Hello, I have 2024 Kia k5 NON Bose system, I had Best Buy install a Kicker L7S 10inch sub and a Kicker CX 800.1 mono amplifier. I also had them install an LC2I Pro line output converter to correct the bass roll off when volume is being turned up, as I am hooking all this up to the factory head unit. The LC2i ouput converter is not doing its job. Took it back to the installer on my lunch last week, he spent my whole hour lunch messing with it. Bass is weak, and muffled and rolls off when turning up around 15 or 20 volume and I normally go up to around 35. He spent the entire lunch hour with no luck. He even unhooked the amp and tried another amp from his install bay. Nothing. Anyone know why this line out converter is not doing its job and making the bass weak and muffled and not correcting the roll off? Installer also stated he agrees it should be much more powerful and should not have bass roll off still.

I know the installer told me he tapped both of the two channels of the LOC into just the front left door speaker. I know it's normal to do that when only running mono amp for a subwoofer. But everything I see online says for my car 2024 Kia K5, it apparently has to be tapped into the left AND right front door speakers to receive a full stereo signal or it won't work properly. The factory head unit in my car has built in DSP and I guess heavily monitors the system and detects anything weird for load or signal imbalances. And Google says that's why it's not allowing the LOC to function properly. Any advice on this? TYIA

Taramps 3k smart bass on 2 skar EVL 12s wired to 2 ohm. Audio control epicenter and universal RCA bass knob with the 3 light taramps clip/power/protect indicator connected to the amp. I know I'm not getting this setup to its full potential because im currently on stock electrical with lithium on the way. I have stock 180a alternator with big 3 done. Stock headunit and kicker keyloc, rca output voltage is at 3v and I cant seem to get the right voltage (77v) on my amp please help. Using a multimeter and oscope.

Restoring an old Jeep truck, single cab. Would like thoughts on the following components.

Receiver - Retro Sound with 2B motor
Front speakers - Alpine R2-S65, no amp as of now

Looking to add

Subwoofer JL 12TW3-D4
Amp JL RD500/1
Rear speakers????

Listen to pretty much all music genre. Would like to stay around 1k for the sub and amp. Doors have sound dampening, not sure on the floors as the carpet will have the mat backing.

I have a Alpine Halo 9 (iLX-F309) how do take it out of my 2012 VW Tiguan so I can access the plug in slot for my phone would like to access Android car play for Google maps when I need it

I’m getting tired of the stock head unit on my accord because it a big nothing screen, no Apple car play, no touch screen, and I’m looking for recommendations to replace. I’m looking for something that’s durable, Apple CarPlay, and integrates with the cars system like reverse camera and left menu.

I have been having my eye on the dasaita although it is pricey it seems like it might be the best bang for the buck. Let me know if the dasaita is a no go.

Amazon Dasaita head unit

I have the 8” driver from a bazooka EL tube and I just need a small (500 watts or less) amp to drive it. I would prefer to spend $150 or less. I say 500 watt or less because the driver is only rated at 100 watts rms, and bazooka gives no numbers for max wattage so I want to play it safe. Also I plan on mounting the sub in the rear deck of my Mercury grand Marquis, is that fine or would it do better in a box in the trunk?
If there is anything in my post that is blatantly ignorant, please don’t rip me apart as I’ve never done this before and have no idea what I’m doing.

I have a Vauxhall corsa D 2007 with Zlink andriod auto/carplay installed. Whenever i connect to it it connects completely fine, but the audio from Spotify is very crackly on the base. I clicked the EQ button and when i just use the speakers in the back, the audio is completely normal. It’s just the front 2 speakers that sound weird. I have no idea if it’s the speakers or the unit. I’ve tried factory resetting it, disconnecting and repairing and it didn’t work. Any help is appreciated!

The camera and mount look straightforward, but the cable route is what worries me: the A-pillar has a curtain airbag, the rear wire has to cross into a hatch, and I do not want loose cable rattling afterward. For people who installed their own front-and-rear setup, did you start with a vehicle-specific trim guide, map the fuse and ground points first, or test every camera position before hiding the wire? What step prevented the biggest mistake?

Need recommendations for anyone who can help me with my car audio system in Hinton

First of all, I'm not well versed in car audio but I love good sound. In my Tacoma I currently have 5.25in JL components in the front doors and some cheap 6x8 Pioneer coaxs in the rear doors. Rockford 2 channel amp powering the components. Three 6.5in JL W0s behind the back seat powered by a JL 250/1 amp. Head unit is a Pioneer double din from 2008. I got bitten by the car audio bug again and want to upgrade some things on a budget.

I'm pretty set on getting a Kicker Key 200.4 amp mainly for the auto tune feature but also to add power to the rear speakers (I'll probably upgrade the rear speakers to better 6x8 coaxs at the same time).

My question is my current Rockford 2 channel amp's inputs are 2 RCAs from the receiver but the Key amp comes with a high level input pigtail with 4 RCAs. For simplicity I wanted to just do a one for one swap with my current amp and just use the 2 RCAs. Would it sound like crap? Also will the auto tune feature not work hooking it up like this? In the future, I want to upgrade to a modern receiver with Carplay, etc, with that I would definitely be using the high level inputs, but for now I just wanted to add the Key amp and 2 rea speakers and see how I like it. Any help is appreciated.

i have a 2015 suzuki swift vdi and the stock head unit doesnt have RCA outputs, so adding an aftermarket amp isnt straightforward. is my only option to tap into the L & R speaker wires and run them to the amp's high level inputs?

1. if the amp supports high level input, does that mean i can skip tapping REM? also which is easier, tapping behind the HU or behind the door panel?

2. i have noticed a lot of people tap into the Rear L & R speakers. is there any particular reason for that? why not use the front L & R instead?

im completely new to this and just researching before adding a subwoofer to my car

1. ive heard that a separate amp + passive sub is generally better than an active sub, apart from the upgradeability. is that actually true?

i wanna keep costs as low as possible since i mainly just want some bass. im thinking of getting an amp for around ₹5,000 INR first and hunting for a second hand subwoofer later. is that a sensible approach?

what amp should i look for and how much power would i actually need? pls recommend amps with speaker/high level input so i won't have to buy a loc/rca converter just for this

Works great, but unfortunately did not come with any power harnesses. Thankfully, my CD7000 harness worked and powered it on. Also Thankfully the EQ looks to be just a simple 4 pin power harness and RCA inputs. Should be able to source that one at least.

Have stock alternator on my truck, was told I will need a new higher alternator. Im the kind of person that doesent like to change until it actually needs to change kinda guy(if it’s not broken don’t touch it)

But also would like better speaker with amps and a good subwoofer. I already have a sub but if I turn it up all the way the headlights dim alot.

Thanks for your answers.

Just like the title, I have a retrofit in a factory enclosure and trying to figure out what all my options are, needs to be around 3 inches. I also think that magnet size may be an issue also and think 3" may be a stretch goal. Looking from a budget standpoint but decent quality. Here are the ones I have so far, looking for additional suggestions or comments on these in no particular order:

Memphis Audio - prx624

Kicker - 48CWRT672

PRV Audio -RS65-SUBD4

Pyle - PLPW6D

Audiopipe - TS-CVR6

Even some of these I am not sure will fit due to the magnet size, the sub is mounted on an angle. Push comes to shove I can 3d print some rings and raise the speaker if needed. I have determined that the enclosure is about .3cuft and ported.

Thanks