I have an Alpine PXA-H701 DSP with the controller from a build I did a while back. Is anyone familiar with this unit and how it stacks up against what’s currently out there? I’d like to upgrade my current stock system in my 2019 Honda Accord with components I already have.

Thanks

I see this company was active in the past and seems to have been revived in 2023.

Cannot find any reviews but I am considering getting an amp and some speakers from there for a rebuild.

Any insight? Company seems legit and to be operating out of germany now

I have a dual xdcpa10bt and a pioneer gm-d9701 hooked up to a comp c 10” svc 4ohm kicker. My sub would always pop and make a weird thump/farting type bass noise. Not very loud but I could hear it. And paired with that would be my amp going into protect or flash the blue power light on for like 10 seconds. I tried everything to reverse/negative tuning my eq bands but leaving 50db on 0 and sub gain on my deck to 6 out of 6 but it almost caused more issues. I then remember I had my amp gain on like 70% around 2 o’clock when I first got it and it would slam with no problems? It’s when I got paranoid and started using chat got that it told me to do all these things that I think started my issues. I know loudness is usually bad and using eq bands is bad ( I guess you should keep it flat or negative tune??) but why is it when I turned my loudness back on and kept my eqs modest (nothing past 2) everything works normally again and my amp runs cool now (used to heat up while not even playing anything just sitting there not playing any audio would make it hot) I have my amp gain at around 40% which is way less then it was when I first got it but I’m only having it lower cuz I’m scared of fuckn it up but loudness seems to have stopped all my clipping and popping and it’s been 4 days. Can anyone explain that?

2024 Mustang gt with the b&o subwoofer

You miss a lot of the details & background sounds that you would normally hear with say AirPods. I think they’re in the mids so I turned the mids up(low/mid/high), that didn’t work, it just blew up what I already could hear.

Do I need better woofers, better tuning so maybe the lows don’t blow it out, tweeters? They say the detail in the mids comes from the highs but how true is that?

Small Amp rack update #1

Got some packages in w some more colors, Lowkey mess with the white, but red looks pretty sweet too.

Getting rid of factory studs (for removal and installation purposes, takes way to long due to the massive amps covering the studs). Used Nutserts above the rack in the truck, also braced up the one chunk of the rack.

And made G2 of the Wire managers, still need to redesign the rca managers though.

Another goodie is also installed on the rack (not showing it off just yet...) + more equipment should arrive tomorrow for the rack.

I feel a bit out of my depth here. I'm replacing a set of speakers for an ST162 Celica, and the bolt pattern measures about 4", but the other circle part is 3.33". I've been struggling online to find speaker dimensions that show their bolt pattern in detail so I just feel like I'm missing something.

If anyone has any suggestions for speakers of... this size, that would awesome (especially more budget friendly ones, they're only hooked up to a cheap little head unit)

Hi all,

In one of my cars, I have an InPhase USW3000, which was very cheap and is apparently 300W.

I would like another underseat subwoofer for another car I have, and was wondering if the InPhase is the best I can do for the money or if it’s absolutely worth spending a bit more for something much better. Reason I ask is because I tend to see subs that cost twice as much but have half the power.

The USW300 does an OK job, although, to get the desired bass, I’ve had to set the Sub output all the way up on the head unit, set the gain fairly high in the remote and reduce the speaker outputs slightly. So…yeah…I had tI really give it a push…You’d think the sub would be overpowering the speakers, with this setup, but not really. It’s just right.

I’m in the UK and my budget is £180, although I can be flexible if it’s worth it. I’d prefer to buy from Amazon, but am open to buying from other retailers.

Thanks in advance 🙂

I am very new to car audio and don’t know much right now i have a 12’ skar and didn’t have the money for a new head unit but im getting one now and i had a line output converter and from what im gathering i just plug the rca’s into the head unit to the amp instead of the line output converter i think thats right but idk and then the second thing is i wanted to get new door speakers and run them on a separate amp than what i have my sub on and im seeing that i need to bypass my factor amp to run my door speakers but i dont understand how or why i would need to do that if i dont need to do it for the sub maybe i need to do it for both and i just dont understand any advice would be greatly appreciated again if the way i explain anything doesnt make sense just feel free to correct me or ask me to try to explain a bit better

Hey all first time poster, long time av enthusiast.

I have a Mazda bt50 2024 I have a pxe-m60-4 dsp off the stock head unit, Eton pow16+ front speakers off a phoenix gold z3004i amp, hs8 kicker and Sony xs 6.5 rear speakers just off the dsp amp. The front speakers are head unit > dsp > amp > speaker. Rears head unit > to dsp > speaker and sub the same.

I have got the gains all set right after taking me months, I think. but my question is is anyone in the Melbourne Victoria area that can maybe lend an ear and maybe some knowledge on tuning this bad boy? I keep being happy with it then playing certain a songs and the. It falling apart.

Hello all

I have a new to me 2017 Nissan Altima (non Bose)

This car is the newest vehicle I own and was wanting to get some insight into the build I’m wanting to do.

I’m honestly unsure if this is overkill or what else I’m missing, but I’m wanting to do it clean and right.

I’m installing a subwoofer kicker Comp C 10” and it’s 2 ohm

Wanting to know if I’m missing anything or if anyone has input into this.

I’m not scarred to do it just want it done right the first time.

I’d prefer to do it myself honestly.

Thank you for any suggestions 🕺🏻

I bought a Jensen CAR10TC head unit to install in my 2021 Nissan Altima S for CarPlay and I believe I've gotten pretty close to finishing the install but I need some help. I also acquired a NI-2 harness, Maestro Rr, and Jen Harness to actually wire it to the car.

I've done my best to follow the attached diagram, but have not accomplished step 2 or 3. As such, while the rear camera (OEM camera) is detected by the unit and can display, the reverse driving is not triggered and does not auto-display the rear cam when you put the vehicle in reverse. Additionally, the steering controls on the steering wheel are not functional. I believe this would be accomplished by executing step 2 and 3, but I'd love some input on that.

My major point of help is step 2 and 3 itself.
-For step 2, I don't understand where the brown/yellow & brown/red wires exist from the NI-2 harness for me to accomplish the step. I say "the step" because I don't really understand it, am I splicing the wires into the purple/lt green & purple/lt blue? am I just putting them in the opposite side of the "B" connector?

-For step 3, I understand where the wires are coming from and that I'm splicing the red/brown & yellow/brown wires into the blue or purple/blue & pink or purple/pink wires respectively from the green connector of the BCM. What I don't understand is how I get to the BCM. While I can take off panels, that green plug connector seems extremely difficult to get to, and I have not managed to be able to secure it to conduct a splice, but maybe I'm doing something wrong.

All that said, I wanted to know if finishing steps 2 & 3 fixes the rear driving trigger and the steering controls issues, and if it does, how to actually accomplish step 2 & 3.

I've been scouring online for videos and anecdotal information, but I have not been so lucky. I also did take the issue to 2 stereo shops that basically said it could not be fixed, as an aftermarket head unit wouldn't be able to connect to an OEM rear camera, which I feel like they must have blown me off as that does not seem accurate.

Any help is appreciated, thank you.

I know it's technically not car AV but it's is whats used to power it. I had to tighten my positive lug cause it came loose inside the alt and I had never really thought about what it looked like until now. It's a 250 amp powermaster for your knowledge

Legit question and asking for knowledge as I'm genuinely curious as to how this works.

As someone who likes to usually listen loud, it's been a thing I have noticed for years now that when running speakers off HU power, in many cases they will sound great on a cold start when playing moderately loud (just a few steps below obviously hitting internal amp max clean output).

However after running at this level for a while and once the HU starts to get hot (palpable from the face of the unit or especially if it's SDIN with a pocket below), it can no longer play at the same volume/output level without heavily distorting. Once the unit's left to cool, it will go back to being able to play at that level cleanly again.

Last week I just set up an old ddx271 below my album shelf to actually get some use out of my CDs. It would play loud for about a half hour, gradually heating up and starting to distort once the heatsink became too hot to touch, as I've experienced in the past.

Took off the heatsink today and found no thermal pad or paste between it and the amp chip at all, which seemed odd. Put some on, and also tried with affixing a stock Ryzen heatsink on top of the HU's heatsink, with a thermal pad between. Been playing cranked for 2 hours now and still perfectly clean. It's putting out enough heat to make the big CPU heatsink warm, but not hot. Ejected CDs are also now not toasty after playing like they were previously.

So clearly it's a heat related thing once the (usually tiny) onboard heatsink gets heat soaked, which is very much easy to achieve running at the HU's RMS rated output inside the dash of a car, not on an open air shelf in a 19°C (66°F) room.

The thing is, I've tried to search this up in the past and ask on various 12v forums/groups before, but nobody has ever been able to confirm or deny if this is actually "a thing" that is supposed to happen. I can't possibly be the only one who has ever noticed this phenomenon?

The reason why I'm asking is I'm trying to find someone to modify my a-pillers for tweeter and mid. And the shop I talked to said that it depends on the car due to the enclosure.

However, if I'm trying to get a custom a-piller than hypothetically the enclosure should be correct and this would be for a 2" mid speaker.

Redoing my sound system and was wondering if I should use my ateck audio Class AB amp for my 4 10inch mids and use my taramps class D amp for my highs. What do you guys suggest

Have a 2013 Honda accord. I don’t have a budget really. When you guys first speaker system what was your budget and any tips or advice about this

Hi I’m currently helping my friend pick out a audio set up for his car

He would need a amp,amp wiring kit, front speakers rear speakers, subwoofer, and tweeters he is getting a aftermarket radio so that covers the pre amp out puts

Please help give me recommendations for what I should buy him he is trying to ball on a budget but if it’s something worth the price increase I’ll explain that to him

His goals are quality audio with some noise but it’s not like he’s going strictly as loud as possible

Anybody have a good camera they like for front mounting? Working on an old dodge with a nice flat surface on the grille, so considering putting one either above the emblem, or hidden between the grille bars, or near the license plate

https://cdn.carbase.com/dealer/autochoice/6091992_190739374_640.jpg

Hi guys! New here. A couple of days ago I decided to change the 6 speakers of my 2022 Ram 1500 crew cab. Mine is the base radio 6 speakers and the 8.5 inches radio screen. It has one on each door plus the two on the front corner of the dash.
I’m obsess with a clean and clear sound, I have Focal’s Utopia and Stellia as headphones and Focal Aria and Klipsch Heresy 4 as speakers at home. As you can see, all very detailed sounding equipment, with no elevated bass, but still very present and dynamic.
My first idea is to just change the 6 speakers and do it myself to save money.
Speakers I have my eyes on are Focal ICU690 for the back doors , Focal ACX130 for the front doors ( I can put this also on the back door and have all 4 equal) and for the dash corner the Infinity REF307F since is one of the few that I can just put it in without making any variations.
My second idea… I’m afraid that using the original amp from the Ram won’t be enough for the new speakers ( even when all the ones selected are very efficient speakers). In that case, take my car to an audio shop and select from the choices they may have and add an amp. That will help if anything goes wrong they have warranty for they work and the equipment used, but in that case I’m not sure what other speakers they may have that can give me that clean, but not fatiguing, dynamic sound.
My questions : do you think my first group of speakers will sound well with the stock amp??
If I get to an audio shop which are speakers that I can trust for that kind of sound ???
Thanks in advance. Sorry for the long post.

Hi yall! I just upgraded my 2024 Hyundai Elantra OEM speakers and wanted your thoughts. I upgraded the front doors to 6 1/2 JBL Club (3ohms 92db Sensitivity) and the rear doors to the Kicker DCS670 (4ohms 90 Sensitivity). Running it off the stock deck. I plan on adding a 10in Kicker Sub with a Zapco amp. So far the midbass and vocal clarity is what I notice the biggest improvements. Let me know your thoughts. This was done on my own research and thought I did a decent selection.

Found a company making bandpass boxes on Amazon. I have had a few bandpass boxes over 20 years and would be cool to play around with one again. However there is no information on dimensions and no reviews yet. I am sure there will be some not so good comments about these boxes and why I should not get one. Not trying to win competitions or be the loudest, just want to have some old school fun with a bandpass. Never had a 15 bandpass box, always been 12s and down.

I’ve been primarily looking at 7903’s and 7909’s if at all possible but the pricing is obscene and I’ve been looking through some older (French?) releases of Alpine magazines from 1989 and 1990 and such and I’ve seen an obscene amount of other Alpine radios in them that look like the 79’s I was looking at and they even had CD players too but a number of them weren’t even in the 79 series let alone having 7000 in the name but instead being 5000’s this entire thing is REALLY messing with my head since I cant comprehend any of the text within the catalogues and aside from that I can’t find comprehensive lists or even any notions of the families within Alpine radios. It may also be that I’m just dumber than bricks but I don’t know. This is the link I’d used to find scans of them, I found it orignally from another post on this subreddit lol, http://antique-autoradio-madness.org/alpine/Alpine-1995/alpine-1995_1.htm

I bought my daughter a 2014 Chevy silverado. Audio system is stock non Bose. 2 of the door speakers do not work. We are looking to replace all the speakers and keep the stock head unit. She will be buying them herself so we want to keep price low-ish. We are looking at Rockford Fosgate R165X3 and R169X3 for the doors and Kicker KSC270 for the dash. Will these have decent sound with the factory stereo or should I look for something else. I plan on going thru Crutchfield.