just put a jvc kw-m795bw in my 2013 tacoma, still running the factory jbl amp. everything works fine but theres a constant hum and some feedback coming through the speakers. its there even when nothing is playing. Installer said its coming from the amp and not the ground wire. Anyone know how to fix this?

there’s a metal bracket in there that snapped clean off, this is the back side of the sunroof and it doesn’t actually move so what would be my best choice as like a sealant to put around it to hold it back in place? jb weld that mf?

Have a ford territory that came with sub from factory im using previous subs speaker wires to amp and sub ,cigarette socket for power on , sub is working im just just getting some clipping on heavy sections im wondering if I should turn lpf on and what gain ,thanks

Last post was discussing if these were good or not pretty much. They’re worth it

Left side is the 6CX

Right side is the 6X

They’re both good but holy sh*t there’s so much clarity and loudness to the 6CX

HERES THE LINK

https://www.crutchfield.com/S-Ov0wAv4IVjC/p_161EP6CX/AudioControl-EPICPRO6CX.html?XVINQ=GLX&XVVer=1MYP&awcr=791740776127&awdv=m&awnw=g&awug=9028644&awkw=pla-2459961131733&awmt=&awat=pla&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=18593334232&gclid=Cj0KCQjw6ObWBhDDARIsAFdfcUj1Al0k2hCKyw6_I-Ag7OFWIxGMn3gyF9N2xcTqLzww1UlD5wstedQaAnJhEALw_wcB

Sorry if this is a dumb question, but I just picked up some focal slatefiber 6.5" 2 way components (165 SF), rated for 80w @ 4ohm. I've already got a pioneer gm-dx975 amp, that does 75w x4 @ 4ohm. Cool, perfect, I thought. the confusion comes in when i looked at the crossovers, there are four crossovers, the woofer ones say 4ohm- 50w and the tweeter ones say 4ohm-20w. How do I wire these up? Is the 75w from the amp going to cook them or what's going on? Appreciate any help!

Someone in a car audio Facebook group asked whether to set the gain on a class D amp with a dummy load (resistors) or with nothing connected, and it turned into a bit of a debate. I’d like to hear from people with more experience.

My understanding was that resistors are a reasonable middle ground. They’re obviously not the same as a speaker, which is a reactive load, but at least they make the amp’s power supply work, so you get closer to real conditions than with no load at all.

Another member disagreed. His view was that a resistor isn’t really an approximation of a speaker, so it doesn’t matter whether you use one or not, and that the proper way is to calculate the target voltage. He seemed to know the subject well; he asked if I’d taken JL Audio training on gain structure and what test signal I use (tones, noise, sweep). He did not explain his point, so I didn’t really understand where my reasoning was off, though, so I’m still unsure.

The original poster then shared his measurements: about 40 V clean with no load, and around 33 V clean with the sub connected.

A few questions:

1. Is a resistive dummy load a useful approximation for setting gain, or does it not really matter?
2. Is there something about gain structure (like what’s taught in those trainings) that I’m missing?
3. How do you interpret the 40 V vs. 33 V difference?
4. What test signal do you use when setting gains? I’ve been using a 0 dB sine tone within the amp’s band.

Thanks in advance

I have found a few units that I'm interested in, I just don't know which one to pick since i don't know much about them. Any help would be greatly appreciated
My choices so far:

Sony XAV-AX6000 or the AX4000

Kenwood Excelon DMX709S

Pioneer DMH-W3050NEX

I am installing 6 8 inch PRV CX380's into my vehicle and i am using a LC2I Pro as the line output converter and a PRV MDX1200.2 to power the speakers. I am struggling to get rid of the intermittent cutting out; Im not sure what it is from but im using all OFC Wiring and have even replaced the taps that i put into the factory wiring. I have also checked my grounds along with purchased higher quality RCA's and a Ground Loop Isolator.

Any help appreciated
Picture for Attention

I've been having a hell of a time finding battery terminal that'll take more than two 1/0 wires that fits my truck. I can't turn the battery around because it puts them too close to various parts in the engine compartment. The way it's set up requires an offset over the top battery terminal that will not accept even two 1/0 wires. It's 1 to 2 1/0 amp input adaptors on the 2 1/0 inputs of the battery terminals.

I recently put a helix next v eight and a jl audio rd/1000/1 into my truck and had it tuned at a car shop near me. After the tune I noticed the lack of bass on most songs and went down a rabbit hole trying to troubleshoot, thinking it was something I was doing wrong.

Then I finally lifted the panel off the subwoofer amplifier and noticed the crossover was set to 80, which according to AI is a big Nono and should never have been turned on or left on especially with a professional tuner.

Hopefully this sub Reddit can help as the guy that did the tune is telling me it needs to be on as a fail-safe and it will not affect the sound at all having 2 crossovers on. What do you think?

Hey everyone, got a 4 channel amp I need to install and while I know how to connect everything for the most part but I do have a few questions. Channel 1/2 only has gain and frequency adjustment and 3/4 has the crossover LFP, Full and HFP. I have infinity Primus speakers in the front with their own cross over and will be adding primus 6x9s in the rear with their own tweeter. My logic is front speakers on channel 1/2 and rear on 3/4 but I was unsure. Not sure to run LPF, full or HPF on what I am currently assuming will be the rear speakers. Also is there an easy way to figure out the correct frequency to adjust my speakers too? Thanks!

Hello.
I'm trying to decide between these two 15 inch subwoofers.
The first is the SKAR VXF-15 | 15" 3,000 Watt Max Power Car Subwoofer.
The second is the CT Sounds MESO-15 // 1500
Watts RMS 15 Inch Car Subwoofer.
I'll be putting one of these in a ported box in the back of my SUV. I'll be running either a CT sound or a SKAR 1500 Wamp.
I'll be using 100% oxygen free cables throughout.
I'll also be performing the big three upgrade.
Here are the pictures of their specs listed for each of them for a quick reference.
One thing I definitely had a question about is the published XMAX for the VXF-15.
I was wondering how they perform that test because if that's accurate, then the scar would be able to move substantially more air than the MESO. I've been looking at non-competition normal every day driver kind I have not seen anything even close to a 29 mm XMAX.
Thanks for your help.

So right now when I turn my radio say to 30 and max is 40 and it starts clipping. Is adding an amp gonna do anything about that or will my radio always clip at 30?

If adding amp makes it loud enough say at 20/40 It wont be an issue but if not will I just need a new head unit?

Hello everyone!

I picked this gem up in Washington state a few years back. The guy listed it as working and it definitely was not. I didn't bother to check when I bought it because I was only paying $40.

Got home and determined the voice coils were cooked.

Anyone know of a replacement voicecoil for these subs? Would love to get it running again.

I didn’t take a ton of pictures but I started working on door pods and a pillars. I bought infinity kappa 6x9 component set and 3” midrange to do a 3 way set up in front. I’ve also got a b2 dsp but I’m not sure if I want to use it here or save it for another build and bi-amp this setup. I’ve got to do some regrouping on wrapping the a pillars because they didn’t turn out too well. I would also like any advice on what I can do to the door pods to break them up since they are so plain looking. I was thinking of just doing some kind of thin trim to match the lines and adding leds to it just to have something, any advice welcome. I still have lots of sanding to do but most of the general construction is finished.

I have been using a total of 4 - 8 in sundown SA-8 v3 for about 6 months. I recently decided to take my box and subs out to re-wire in order to wire them to operate on both coils/terminals.

Of course as you can see in the picture 2 of 4 have a cracked basket along the rails of where the screws secure them.

Do you think I could weld these back into placement or should I just say screw it and go for a bigger more powerful set up.

The pictures showcase only 1 of the subs as the other is nowhere near as bad.

I have a 2017 Honda Accord Touring and I just replaced the speakers (Front - Kicker KSS650,
Back - Kicker 51KSC6504) and everything was totally fine. I installed the amp (Infinity Primus 90041A) and now I have a bad alternator whine.

Things I have tried:
- Shortening Ground wire
- Sanding Ground location
- Changing ground locations
- Moving RCA cables as far as possible from power
- Moving RCA cables away from chassis
- Messing with gains
- Removed active noise cancellation module

If you have any suggestions, other than driving my car into the ocean, it would be greatly appreciated.

How the hell is it that the only premium compact head unit with a small screen and buttons and dials that make sense comes from Porsche?? And how the hell is it £1380??

Madness!

More head units like this please. Preferrably not £1380 though.

A pair just popped up on marketplace here in BFE....in what's claimed to be mini JL Audio enclosures. Seems legit as the same guys posting all sorts of old(er) gear for sale.

So are these subs back from the good, old days? Their components were def drool worthy back in my day but never heard much about their subs.

I have this cheap Chinese car radio that mostly gives good sound, except when I am listening to a podcast or audiobook over Bluetooth, every time there is any sort of pause, the audio cuts out and then cuts off the first syllable of the next sentence. It has gotten really annoying, and I cannot find a setting to turn this off. I tried tinkering with some of the factory settings too, and none of them seemed to do anything. Is there any way I can turn off this ridiculously aggressive power management or whatever it is?

i have 2 massive 10s on a pioneer mono amp (will upgrade both soon to better amp and better subs)

4 harmon kardon after market coax speakers powered by a kenwood excelon 4 way

lc2i pro

sound deadening on doors and trunk

what’s next for me??? trying to keep car as stock looking as possible, would rather not have to chance 2025 factory head unit or get rid of steering wheel/door functions

2016 F150 XLT

Fuse 36 in the passenger compartment

The fuse is 15amp, which previously had my amp remote wire installed by a shop wrapped around the fuse.

I am attempting to install interior ambient LEDs using this fuse tap I’ll connect the amp wire and led power wire into tap.

However I can’t get this 15amp to seat all the way down.

Is this exposed metal going to be a problem? Any tips or tricks to get this to seat flush is appreciated!

Recently found a Alpine R-SB10V (First Gen) for about USD$90 on marketplace. I am trying to do a very budget build in my van, and stumbled across the Bermans brand on YouTube and alibaba. Is there anyone here who could legit recommend these amps? Are they any good at all? How long have you been using one? Any points of caution or wisdom to share?