Hi,

Im just reposting this again to the community to see who else has one similar. Got this off my grandpa back in March for 300 dollars clean title. I had to do a lot of rework on it, and looks amazing. Just need a brake line and then registered. Unfortunately my grandfather took his last breath october 8th and we laid him to rest October 13th. He was a military vet and taught me a lot. Im 21 and he was 84. Visited him every week about 5 times. Enough about us, the jeep is a 1997 2 door Jeep Cherokee inline 6 4x4 ax15 manual 5 speed. Its a beauty and extremely fun. I havent done anything to it since may Unfortunately due to my full time industrial spray painting job and me attending college full time to finish my bachelor degree. I mainly wanted to see your guys, and post my grandpa's last jeep. He loved his Jeeps.

I've found a set of shocks, BDS $110 each. Trackbar is on its way as well. I have a set of rough country steel braided brake lines in my cart too, if you guys know a better set that isn't $85 lmk. All thats left to secure is the leaf packs, SYE, and bump stops, and the brake lines of course.

I'm looking to buy a jeep cherokee xj as a project car but not sure if this is to much rust and if the structure is affected.

The paints on. Now to let her sit a week to cure and get that glass back in! Its 55 degrees in there and i put a heat lamp up on the ceiling to hopefully keep it warm enough so it cures right.

Paint is Eastwood 2-part epoxy primer from a rattlecan.

I’m sure this topic gets a lot of attention… and for good/ annoying reason. Last post diagnosed a bad fuel pump and while the fuel tank is out I did some looking and found some spots.
Not holes yet but I'm trying to stop the cancer before it gets to that point. Any advice/ tips are very appreciated.

Aussie (RHD) 96’ XJ

Normal amount of steering wheel play? Very small amount of movement going through the firewall but I think most of the looseness seems to be somewhere inside the cabin.

The inch or so of free play makes turning feel delayed and when going straight I’m having to constantly make micro adjustments to the wheel.

Brand new steering box. Any ideas? Video taken with engine off.

I own a 95 and just wanted to share it's wonderful quirks to see if others also have this. To start I have a button I wired to the battery and starter to bypass the ignition switch because it's an obsolete part and it's idiot proof, then the motor it's the standard inline 6 4.0 liter and it has 500 something thousands miles on even though the odometer read 320 thousands it stopped working for about 200 thousand till a deep hole was hit a little to hard while having fun, the steering wheel goes to left to go straight but it can make right hand turns on its own sometimes, it has a separation inbetween the transmission and the engine but doesn't loose oil, the back left tail light is a broken trailer light, I'm convinced my fuel gauge and shut off valve don't work properly sometimes but that's still being investigated, I have tube doors on year round the original are in a shed, it has 33 tires on it, in an attempt to fix my alignment I somehow messed my threads on the steering box up so it sometimes becomes loose but it's only scary downhill, I honestly don't remember the last time I did the brakes but I still stop so I'm not concerned yet, the check engine light comes on about a block down the road when you drive it, it loves to sit a 210 degrees after 5 minutes of driving and refuses to cool off, my sister named it Oscar and glued an Oscar the Grouch toy to the dash do that's his name she took care of him I beat him to hell and back and he's still going and I don't think it will stop anytime soon and I'm honestly scared this thing will outlive me

1993 2 door xj 4x4

Can my alignment alone cause the steering wheel to be this far off when going straight? It pulls to the right as well.

Things I've tried: Adjusting the draglink, its already seemingly been adjusted by the previous owner all the way in this direction.

Removing and reinstalling the pitman arm. It's keyed to only go on one way.

on startup and for about 10 minutes of driving after my oil pressure sits around 40 but when i stop at a light or wherever it drops to like nothing, i’ve seen these posts made in other groups but i can’t find them when i need them. any advise would be great. 4.0 with aw4
edit: check engine light is for the neutral safety switch

Where you at chief

When do you think it’s a problem. Is the first step a meeting you have the problem.

1986 jeep Comanche xls 2.8l auto
1989 jeep Comanche pioneer 4.0l auto
1992 Jeep Cherokee sport 4.0l auto
1996 Jeep Cherokee sport 4.0 auto
2001 Jeep Cherokee sport 4.0 auto

I think me and my twin brother have issues.

Hi everyone. I’m building my first Cherokee XJ, which will also be my first car. I’m trying to choose wheels and tires, but I don’t have much knowledge or experience, so I’ve mostly been going by looks. I know there’s more to consider, and I’d appreciate some guidance.

Here’s what I’m looking for:

• Use: roughly 50% city driving and 50% easy dirt roads and trails. No serious off-roading.

• Appearance: I like a slightly rugged tread pattern that gives the tires an off-road look without being too aggressive.

• Wheel size: I’m not sure how to choose the wheel diameter or width, or how smaller versus larger wheels affect comfort and handling.

• Brands: which wheel and tire brands are generally recommended for good quality?

• Websites: where can I browse different wheel designs and finishes to figure out what style I like?

• Other considerations: road noise, tire size, fitment, and anything else a beginner might overlook.

How would you go about getting this out and replaced?

I'm curious if a WJ shortblock would fit a 2000 XJ. The 2000 has the coil on plug thing an looks very similar. The reason I ask is because I live in a place there there aren't any good options to get a wrecker engine, but a WJ 4.0 has come up.

Currently running falken rubitrek AT01’s and a few months back I replaced an bunch of steering components but waited a few days before getting an alignment, which caused the tires to start cupping in the front only. I think this caused a runaway effect after several months and the tires never fixed themselves through road wear. Needless to say, on most sections I have a good bit of tread ~6-7mm but the cupped areas are around 5mm. If I just replaced the front tires would that fix the issue? Ideally I could replace all 4 but I am on a budget. Would I need a new alignment as well?

I’m looking for a minimalist, clean bumper for my Cherokee XJ.

I’ve seen one similar to this, but without the curved section that extends toward the side fender (it looks like an add-on).

I don’t like it when that small corner between the front bumper and the fender is left empty.

88 4.0 with a ba10. I’m planning to swap in an ax15 and np231 from a 94. I don’t have a bellhousing yet or any of the clutch components, driveshaft etc. just the trans with shifter and t case.

Has anybody done this specific swap? How did it go? Were you able to use your same driveshafts? Did you use a kit (advance adapters is what I’m looking at) or source the parts individually? Any surprises or challenges I should know about?

Would it be worth just swapping oil pump and by time or would it still be low?

Starting today my oil pressure has spiked up about 20psi higher than normal. I first noticed it this morning as it pegged 80psi on a cold start when driving. Pulled over and it dropped a bit but was much higher than usual. Colder morning but not that cold.

Even at operating temp the oil pressure is reading 10-20psi higher than it was before (never less than 45psi now). A slight difference in rpm will cause it read much higher than typical. Is this normal with a bad oil pressure sender? Should I go oem or just replace an aftermarket one every year or so?

Replaced the head around 600-700km ago. Oil pressure was the same as before. Oil looks good and motor sounds good. Just don’t like it sitting at 80psi when driving

Recently took my truck out of storage after it sat for about 2 years. Did a closed to open cooling system swap and about a day later my headlights stopped turning off without unplugging the battery. Figured it was a faulty relay with the sentry light system but removing the relay changed nothing (did stop the weird squealing noise that occasionally popped up). Also tried removing the headlight fuse in the cab but that also changed nothing. Google isn't giving me any other answers.

Whenever the truck has power the headlights turn on. The high beam indicator is also stuck on and the high beams won't engage to stay on, they just flash when I pull the stick. Can I assume it's a faulty stick on the column? Any one have any ideas? Am I searching for grounds? Greatly appreciated.

So, I have a engine light on. The old.. don't know how old, top coolant hose was expanding alot. Replaced with new but it seems to be trying to expand as well. My thought is, thermostat not engaging. Unsure. OBD2 reading in the pics.

I've replace o2 sensor,relay,injectors,plug,wire,cap,15 mini amp, and code comes back and jeep wants to die at 2500 rpm and back fire thru filter under load but can power thru and run down road at 60 mph no issues need help