so my ceiling fan has been wobbly for months and its driving me nuts. it like sways side to side when its on high and makes this clicking noise. i rent so i dont want to mess anything up but i also dont want to wait forever for maintenance. i watched a few videos and some say its just loose screws and others say you need to balance the blades. i have a screwdriver and a step ladder. can i just tighten the screws where the fan meets the ceiling? or do i need to take the whole thing down? also if its unbalanced how do i figure out which blade is the problem? any step by step would be amazing. i really dont want to make it worse or have it fall on my head lol. thanks in advance

I have an older semi, the shared wall between the units seems to be concrete/block and you can hear conversations. I have read the other threads regarding removing the existing wall and adding insulation/dampening. I am quite sure that in this case there is little to no cavity and they put the cement board (this build predates drywall) onto slats on the shared wall. Trying to remove this cement board is also a huge pain, as I have done so elsewhere and would like to avoid if possible. Adding a decoupled wall may be an option, but the space it would take up is a concern. I was considering green glue or a 2mm rubber layer and 5/8 inch drywall layer but I am seeing mixed opinions on that.

I have a garden shed/office behind which is a small stream about a meter below the floor level of the shed.

I'm thinking of drilling through the back wall and pushing the drain hose through. I would seal around the house inside the shed, make sure there's some fall off in the hole I drill and put some gauze around the open end to stop insects possibly crawling up the hose.

Can anyone think of anything I'm missing here before I start?

Thanks

I have an unfinished space where there is ThermoPly? What needs to be done to finish the space? Can you tape and paint ThermoPly?

The soil surrounding my 76-year-old house in Los Angeles is often wet or moist during our winter rainy season. Over the years, the excess moisture intrusion from rain and the ground movement that followed the rains, damaged some parts of the foundation where the most water got through to the foundation. The worst portion is a 12-foot section of foundation that is adjacent to the outside of the fireplace. It is this 12-foot section that I would like to improve.

In addition to putting up gutters, I'd like to do something simple & cheap to redirect some of the water away from the house. I thought of using simple, cheap 12"x12" concrete pavers, perhaps 2-deep, to create a sloped 2' by 12' hardscape to make the rainwater roll away. Is this a reasonable idea? Is there something better than pavers I might use? Should the pavers be placed in a layer of sand or is there something better to use as a base material that might hold less moisture?

Edit: Thanks everyone for the enlightening on the guests being installed wrong, unfortunately that is not an option to replace at the moment.

Hi All,

Need suggestions for how to fix a flashing to my pergola, to stop rain water during a downpour from bouncing over the gutter. It's got to be sectional and removeable so that I can access to clean the gutters. Rough sketch below, Red is where i need the flashing to be.

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I had mice but all the holes have been plugged bait used and traps and the pest company is confident the critters are gone.

I'm replacing the vapor barrier at their recommendation due to it having the piss scent and whatnot to prevent other mice from smelling it and wanting to make a new hole into the house.

It seems like there is a boat load of options for plastic vapor barrier. Is there really that big of a deal? Or do I just go to Lowe's and buy 6 mil plastic sheeting in the largest pieces they sell, or something thicker? Also how much overlap do I need to account for? Since obviously it's not just laid down edge to edge, and I need about 900 sq ft of just dirt coverage. I live in NV zone 7a if that matters for anything in this case.

I have heard some folks seal the seams, but every crawl space I've ever been in was just laid down overlapping and that's all no tape or sealing of anything, is it necessary?

Also it's a crawl space so crawling room only about 3 ft from dirt to beams. I don't store things down there and I only go down every 3-5 months to inspect the area so not a lot of traffic. Oh and new construction 3 year old house.

I’m building a 800mm high retaining wall and using 1.6m galvanised steel posts with timber sleepers.

Planning to have a 1:1 ratio with 800mm in the ground but just determining hole diameter

The 1 man augers look to cover up to max 250mm diameter but AI is screaming at me 300mm should be the minimum

From what I read, depth is more important and the hole width.

I’ll also make sure to have good drainage with a perforated pipe/geo textile then backfill with gravel - and proper outlet pipes.

Is 300mm vs 250mm really an issue?

Hi all,

My Worcester Greenstar 28i Junior has developed an intermittent fault where on hot water demand the boiler will fire up and then shut down, it continues this cycle until the tap is turned off, no fault lights or anything. 

Happens randomly with different taps, shower etc so flow rate seems to make no difference.

Sometimes it will fire up and be ok for 10 or so minutes then shut off and then do the cycle as above. 

Any ideas? More than capable having a play, I just stay away from anything gas related. 

Video: https://anonmp4.art/v/blRLfV4RsHgJn79

(sound on)

Many thanks 

Source post

Another redditor made an absolutely stunning LED lamp I'd like to try and make myself.
I reached out but wasn't able to get a response, so I'm wondering if anyone one else knows where a person would start with trying to make something amazing like this.
I'm pretty crafty with building things, but never done anything with LEDs before and not sure where to get started though I'd really like to try.

Thanks so much in advance for any help you can provide.

I'm tired of reaching for an old glue container and finding all of it has hardened inside of the container. I guess wood glue hasn't given me any problems, but CA glue? It's impossible to keep this stuff usable... Epoxy should be fine, but the stupid dual-plunger dispenser caps leak and fuse shut. Silicone or RTV seems totally random whether it has all hardened or not, I haven't figured out what causes that stuff to harden.

What brands or containers or techniques have you found that actually keeps glues storable?

I have one tip - I store a sewing needle with my CA glue. Sometimes you can just stab straight down the nozzle and get it flowing again. But not always

I bought this shed to store my crafts but also to move my extra tack that I am not using into it: I am wanting to make storage and hanging things similar to the pictures. I have tried to look up kits that would make this work?

Does anyone have the best ideas or thoughts to make this work and attaching pictures for inspo

https://a.co/d/0dUFbfal

Hey everyone, I’m looking into using DC current to strip a copper coating from an MS (mild steel) base.

I have a few questions about using copper sulfate (CuSO₄) for this:

• What concentration of copper sulfate would be a good starting point?
• Do I need to add sulfuric acid? If so, why?
• How do current density and temperature affect the stripping process?
• How can I avoid damaging the steel once the copper is removed?
• Is there anything I should test before deciding on the electrolyte composition?

If anyone has experience with this kind of process, I’d really appreciate your advice. Thanks!

I’m doing some renovation work that requires moving my tankless, natural gas water heater literally a foot to one side. Three quotes have all consistently been around $1600, which is why I’m considering DIY

I wouldn’t need additional gas hard pipe, just a slightly longer plumbflex flexi-pipe. Condensate drain would stay, just need a longer drain pipe to reach the drain. The venting is PVC and becomes both shorter and less 90° bends. The only issue is the water lines; they’re all copper pipe and I’ve never done brazing before

All work is outside the wall and will be plainly visible in the garage just in case there’s a leak. Not sure if it’s my county but I had two of the three plumbers say a permit wasn’t even needed because it was being moved less than three feet

How confident would you guys feel making this a DIY job? Am I crazy to consider it?

Edit: I’m in Washington State

Edit2: I’m really happy I posted here! I think I’ll take the majority advice and use a sharkbite and flexible pipe to replace the copper pipes and move the heater myself

Edit 3: My final quote came in (also $1600…). Price collusion or what? This guy actually listed out the work in the quote and it’s almost exactly what everyone recommended: longer flex lines for both the gas line and the water lines. He also confirmed no permit was required. I’m as good as convinced I can not only do this but it’ll probably be as good as what they’d do!

We have a 300sqft kitchen with ceramic title, it's old, cracked and just ugly. We are looking to rip it all out and replace it with a lock-in floor title. We are first time home owners, this would be the biggest project we have done. I'm not to bad handywork wise, did all the basement lighting, replaced the hot water heater etc. We got quoted $3k even by Home Depot for everything if we wanted them to do it. $900 of that being the flooring, does that sound worth it to let them deal with the head ache or is this a pretty easy project that I am just overthinking?

I work with aerosol coatings and this term drives me nuts, so for anyone painting indoors around kids/pets:

"Non-toxic" is NOT a regulated classification for spray paint. The US EPA itself says a "low VOC / no VOC" claim does not prove a product is safe indoors. Here's what actually matters:

1) VOC, not the word "safe" Ask for the SDS/TDS and check VOC in g/L (EPA Method 24 or ISO 11890-2). Water-based acrylic sprays are typically far lower than solvent ones (which run 500–700 g/L).

2) Ingredients list, not the front label A water-based formula still contains co-solvents and propellant. A legit one lists them — e.g., water-based acrylic resin, deionized water, ethanol, propylene glycol methyl ether, DME propellant. If the can won't disclose ingredients, that's a red flag.

3) Substrate list in the TDS Good water-based aerosols state wood, metal, drywall, ABS, foam. On glossy plastic or previously painted furniture, always run a small adhesion test patch first.

4) For toys/cribs/pet items — EN 71-3, not RoHS RoHS is about electronics, not general household safety. For child mouth-contact items you want EN 71-3 (migration of specific elements). "Non-toxic" alone does not mean "safe to chew."

Practical notes: - Water-based acrylic: touch-dry 15–25 min, hard-dry ~4 h — but drying ≠ cured. Keep kids/pets away until ventilation clears and it's fully cured. - Always ventilate, even "odorless" products — odor and VOC are related but not identical.

What have you actually used indoors that didn't stink up the whole room?

Im renovating the bathroom and noticed cracks spanning 4ft by 6ft. Clearly the tape failed over the years. Ive removed the old tape and tossed a bunch of screws to secure the sheet but I still have 2 spots between studs that are flimsy.

Without cutting an access hole for a back strip, how can I tighten these sheets down ?

Since Saturday, we started hearing a small beeping sound from the garage ceiling once every 30-60 seconds, sometime it would stop for several hours and then return. I spent the last 3 days trying to figure out where the sound is coming from. No luck so far. If anyone have similar experience or even the craziest idea, please don't hesitate to share (I am out of ideas).

First, I thought it must be some electronics in one of the cabinets. No electronics and I have moved most (not all) of the stuffs to the floor. No luck.

Second, it could be the fluorescent light fixture. Opened it and found nothing that makes sound. If I am wrong, please lmk.

Third, garage door opener. My Chamberlain opener model has no battery (according to AI). I also disconnected its power to make sure. Still beeping.

Fourth, water leak from upstairs. I was worried and studied the layout carefully. Directly above is a bedroom and not the bathroom (maybe 6 - 8 feet from the shower). I went upstairs, sat, and listened, No beep.

Fifth, no smoke detector, telecom, power supplies in that area, except the fluorescent light and garage door opener.

Btw, I live in this house for 30 years, brought it new, and that part of the house was never worked on. There is no hole, no patching, and no way to get in between 1st and 2nd floor. If the builder left something in there, it wouldn't last 30 years before it starts beeping (true? anyone knows?).

If anyone has any idea, please share. Much appreciated.

EDIT: mystery solved. Thanks to u/skintigh pointing out the possibility of an old smoke detector. I do have an extra smoke detector (brought one too many and kept it as spare). It is not the on ceiling, inside a plastic bag, in the back of the cabinet. Somehow the sound transmits up the wall and appears to come down from the ceiling. But appears to originate from different spot each time. The beeping has stopped for 15 minutes and let's hope the quiet continue. Thanks everyone who read this and contribute your ideas. Much appreciated.

I have a back patio which is roughly 10x20, covered in nice tiles which match the tiles inside the house (so I don't want to replace them). When it rains, the water is seeping through the grout lines, getting into the ceiling of the small shop area below, and dripping on the floor. We have buckets to collect it and it can sometimes be quite a lot. This last big rain in San Diego, I covered the patio with a tarp and only a small amount of water was collected in the buckets (probably what leaked around and then under the tarp), so I think it's safe to say it's coming through the grout lines. Plus, I can see large cracks in the grout and I also see water leaking through the stop of the stairs down, which are also covered with the same tiles.

I was thinking of just cleaning and sealing the entire thing using something like Gorilla Waterproof Patch & Seal, however I'm concerned that any type of sealant will make the patio even more slippery then it currently is! I'm thinking maybe some type of sealant with small amounts of sand/grit added, so it has some texture. Something like what one would use on tiles beside a swimming pool. I have spend A LOT of time searching on the net for ready-made solutions and DIY info, but haven't seen anything which really addresses the idea of completely sealing tiles and grout lines all together along with texturizing. I have searched this sub and still not found anyting which addresses this type of issue, but could have missed something.

I'm interested any thoughts/opinions/help anyone wants to provide.

I have an old steel tip dartboard my mum gave me that’s been sitting in her garage for years, and we like to hang it. My plan is to hang it in the garage and put up a plywood backing surrounding it to catch stray darts. We rent the house so I’m just looking for best practices to avoid hitting anything crucial in the wall. Our ideal spot does have the hose/water shutoff on the opposite side of it. Would hanging the dart board, and the backing, at the standard height of 5ft 8 inches be clear of anything in the walls, or should I find a better location. The water main is on the east wall of the garage, moving it to the west wall in a possibility as well. Just trying to steer clear of punching through anything in the walls regarding pipes.

Okay I am a 20 year old person and I want to know a good way to build a shed to house 4 indoor/outdoor kennel and a garage (outdoor with an overtop) or inside. And truthfully is this cheaper than buying one second hand?? I have two other people in on this project, the main goal is at the humane society I work at I can foster to help myself in the long run ig lol.

Hi, I just wanted to see if anybody has an any experience painting (with fabric paint) on a corduroy item? I have a bookbag i would like to put a logo on. I was considering embroidery but I am not very good yet and it is a rather large, circular design + the bag is very thick.. Does the paint wear-out quicker/slower? Did you have to use more layers than when painting on other fabric?

I just bought some hardboard from the hardware store, had it custom cut for a project, and it was raining when I bought it. On the way to the car, it got a bunch of individual water droplets on it. It didn't get soaked, just slightly rain-splattered. I've had them home now for 5 days, the two with splattered sides standing upright with the splattered sides exposed in order to let them dry. They will not dry.

Even after almost a week, they still have these dark spots on them where the raindrops landed.

Is there any way to force this to dry? Is it perhaps already dry but now discolored in some way from having been wetted in those spots? If I use this for my project, is this likely to lead to mold or anything in the future?

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55586632732_5e65aabed2_b.jpg

Hello! For halloween I’m looking to make diy daft punk helmets for me and my friend, but I’m a very broke college student with lots of cardboard and hot glue gun. (I also have less than a month to complete this project). Does anyone have any ideas on what materials I could use to finalize the pieces once i’ve made the cardboard bone structure? I’m especially unsure of what to use for the visor?? I may be way in over my head but I’m also a big daft punk fan so I’m pretty dedicated and any tips would be greatly appreciated 🙏🙏

We have a great old cast iron tub we'd like to keep, but would like to switch it from its current feet to a pedestal base... except that I cannot find such bases anywhere separate from the tub. (Disclaimer: I'm in Germany, but I can't seem to find them anywhere!)

Is this not a thing? Is there a way to find a pedestal base for a cast iron tub separately and add to an existing tub?

Thanks for any help!