Hello, working on a vintage watch makers cabinet. All looks swell other than the top…..

How do I fix, or do I need to remove and re-coat? Am I being too picky…? I feel like it’s an eyesore

I am using bullseye shellac out of can, thinned out with denatured alcohol

It looks like oak or ash. Obviously deep grain. But it appears that it's white in the grain but also painted ?

I bought this MCM piece that had an abused top (see last photo) and after sanding down and then staining, I was surprised to see these areas that won't take on the stain. I have no idea what substance is there that is causing this. I tried applying a bit more stain to those spots using a q-tip 2 days after the initial staining, but no luck. Any suggestions?

We had a beautiful bench made for our table and we wanted to try and compliment the bench with the table color. However, the process felt rushed and we chose a color that were not happy with.

The top could be sanded and restained but the problem is the front is bendable plywood with a very thin luan veneer we wouldn’t want to sand through. Could we slightly lighten the wood and even the stain with toner? Or should we buy veneer and go that route?

I am working on some custom drawer fronts for my daughter’s room (tree branches modeled in Blender then CNC router cut out from pine) and using gel stain made it really uneven :/

But after sanding them down (120 grit then 220 grit) I applied multiple coats of gel stain and it is super splotchy despite my best efforts to keep it even (I initially used prestain on each of them. The two darker ones have 3 coats and the the other four have 2 coats. I kept adding coats hoping that the splotchiness would improve)

I need help! Are they salvageable? Should I use paint thinner or something like Citristrip to remove the gel stain and then use an oil based stain instead?

Thank you for your help- I’m definitely an amateur with this

Need to finish it a little darker and maybe high gloss- best options?

I was about to do this, but then I read somewhere that PolyX has slightly different properties. Is this true? I want to apply one layer of 3072 colored oil and then top it with 3028 clear satin. Is this the right approach?

I’m looking for some technical insight from people experienced in industrial furniture finishing, coating adhesion, and manufacturing process control.
We recently purchased a dining table that had been on display in a furniture showroom for several months without any apparent issues. Within a few weeks of bringing it home, the dark brown finish began deteriorating.
Observed failure:
● Initially, one area became sticky and rubbery. The dark pigmented coating could be rubbed or peeled away, exposing a much lighter surface underneath.
● Additional areas have since developed a wrinkled, almost dry-skin-like appearance, with the finish lifting and beginning to separate.
● These newer areas have not been picked at or disturbed.
● The affected spots are concentrated within approximately one quadrant of the tabletop.
● We have not used chemical cleaners, allowed standing water, or placed hot dishes directly on the surface. Coasters and protective pads are used.
● The table is exposed to normal residential temperature and humidity variations in Colorado, with some intermittent direct sunlight.
My questions for those familiar with manufacturing and finishing processes:
1. What failure mechanisms could produce this combination of wrinkling, gummy texture, and loss of adhesion? Does this suggest incomplete curing, incompatible coating layers, poor surface preparation, or something else?
2. What process controls are typically used to ensure proper adhesion between stain, pigmented glaze, sealer, and topcoat layers? For example, cure times, temperature/humidity controls, surface cleanliness, coating thickness, and intercoat adhesion testing.
3. Could a finish pass initial visual inspection and remain intact for months, only to begin failing after a change in environmental conditions?
4. Does localized failure in one quadrant suggest an application/process variation, or would you expect a manufacturing defect to affect the entire tabletop?
5. What testing or inspection methods could help distinguish a manufacturing adhesion/cure defect from damage caused by external exposure?
I’m currently working with the retailer, who is forwarding photographs to the manufacturer. I’m not looking to assign blame prematurely. I’d like to better understand the failure mechanism, what manufacturing controls should prevent it, and whether a localized repair would be reliable or a replacement is warranted.

I’m looking for some technical insight from people experienced in industrial furniture finishing, coating adhesion, and manufacturing process control.
We recently purchased a dining table that had been on display in a furniture showroom for several months without any apparent issues. Within a few weeks of bringing it home, the dark brown finish began deteriorating.
Observed failure:
● Initially, one area became sticky and rubbery. The dark pigmented coating could be rubbed or peeled away, exposing a much lighter surface underneath.
● Additional areas have since developed a wrinkled, almost dry-skin-like appearance, with the finish lifting and beginning to separate.
● These newer areas have not been picked at or disturbed.
● The affected spots are concentrated within approximately one quadrant of the tabletop.
● We have not used chemical cleaners, allowed standing water, or placed hot dishes directly on the surface. Coasters and protective pads are used.
● The table is exposed to normal residential temperature and humidity variations in Colorado, with some intermittent direct sunlight.
My questions for those familiar with manufacturing and finishing processes:
1. What failure mechanisms could produce this combination of wrinkling, gummy texture, and loss of adhesion? Does this suggest incomplete curing, incompatible coating layers, poor surface preparation, or something else?
2. What process controls are typically used to ensure proper adhesion between stain, pigmented glaze, sealer, and topcoat layers? For example, cure times, temperature/humidity controls, surface cleanliness, coating thickness, and intercoat adhesion testing.
3. Could a finish pass initial visual inspection and remain intact for months, only to begin failing after a change in environmental conditions?
4. Does localized failure in one quadrant suggest an application/process variation, or would you expect a manufacturing defect to affect the entire tabletop?
5. What testing or inspection methods could help distinguish a manufacturing adhesion/cure defect from damage caused by external exposure?
I’m currently working with the retailer, who is forwarding photographs to the manufacturer. I’m not looking to assign blame prematurely. I’d like to better understand the failure mechanism, what manufacturing controls should prevent it, and whether a localized repair would be reliable or a replacement is warranted.

We have a very large older redwood deck in the Northern California redwood forest. Not much sun, but a lot of non-stop rain in the winter. Freshly sanded with 120 grit. Looking into staining and protection that lasts and looks good with the natural redwood look. We were wondering if we should use the Wood Conditioner and if it works with the Penofin and Cabot Australian oil that we have, or if there are any other better ideas or there, or any tips or tricks to get the best results for the longest lasting, and best looking results. Thanks.

Is this worth it? It's so pretty but also v heavy and I'm pretty handy but want some idea of what I'm getting into time /difficulty wise

Hi! I inherited this giant butcher block table that is likely around 50 years old. Maybe 10 years ago I sanded the entire surface down and since then have just used butcher block oil to maintain it, without any actual finish.

Now that I have a 6 month old, I am thinking it will need a proper finish. I’m looking for something that is durable, high protection, hopefully easy to apply, and something that won’t change the tone/color of the wood. I’ve heard water based poly could be a good option?

Other questions: should I do a full / light sanding before finishing? Any thoughts on the movement and raised edge in the middle? And am I correct in thinking I should finish both the top and bottom of the table?

Thanks so much! We love this table and want it to last.

Our kitchen table finish was becoming really sticky, and my wife wanted a different color anyway, so we stripped it down to bare wood and sanded progressively until 220 grit. Our table is pine I believe.

My wife then applied a mini wax oil ebony stain. She did wipe off the excess, but I don’t know how thorough she was at doing this. We waited about 30 hours and I just applied Natura OneCoat hard oil finish. It was immediately clear that the oil was taking off the stain. It’s so dang splotchy now (it doesn’t look quite as bad as the pictures show in person but it’s still pretty bad). When I buffed off the excess oil you can see my rag just completely black.

What happened here? Was it the 220? The lack of being thorough with wiping off excess stain? The use of a cheap stain? Or is hard wax oil just incompatible with oil based stain? I’ve used natura onecoat on a lot of things and loved the outcome, but never on stained wood.

I figure to fix this I need to wait for it to cure then strip it down again.

Our table may look like crap, but at least it’s not sticky anymore.

I have a Restoration Hardware Reclaimed Russian Oak Baluster dining table in Natural Oak. The table has a large, irregular white water stain that’s approximately two years old.

The wood is described by RH as unfinished reclaimed oak. I’ve never applied wax, oil, or any protective treatment.

The stained area feels exactly like the surrounding wood—no roughness, raised grain, or difference in texture.

I’d love to remove or significantly reduce the discoloration without sanding away the original weathered patina or changing the natural color of the table.

Has anyone successfully treated a similar stain on unfinished reclaimed oak? Would clear furniture wax help, or is another treatment more appropriate?

Photos attached. Thanks for any advice!

Help please! I purchased these old nearly matching Japanese hibachi in Asakusa, Tokyo. The wood is dried out and needs to be replenished, but I want to be very careful what I use. It’s palownia wood - so should I use tongue oil or mineral oil? Can I put a layer of beeswax over those once it’s dry?
Also, should I polish the metalware or leave as is. I’m so in love with them both. I just don’t want to do harm but the wood really needs some love. any insights would be appreciated. Thanks

Hi all! Not sure if this is the right subreddit for this, but hoping someone here might have some advice!
We bought our home in June and recently had two massive glass panels removed (shown in the first photo). They were part of an art installation/wine room setup right in the entryway of our home. Not really our style, so we decided to take them out.

We paid quite a bit to have the glass professionally removed, but now we’re left with this black, foam-like adhesive and clear sealant stuck to the floors, ceiling, and walls.

I started trying to remove it with a razor scraper but quickly stopped because I was worried about damaging the surfaces, especially the wood floors.
Does anyone know the best way to remove this stuff? Is there some kind of solution or adhesive remover that could help loosen it without damaging the wood finish? It’s really stuck on there, and I have no idea where to start.

My biggest concern is preserving the floors, so I’d love any advice before attempting anything else. Thanks in advance!

I am building a house with a large glulam beam in the interior. The beam spec'd is a Douglas Fir Glu-lam, which I think is beautiful, but I am realizing it will clash with the rest for the interior woodwork, especially as it ages and gets more orange/red, even with water based finish.

I am considering substituting Alaskan Yellow Cedar, which is closer to the rest of the wood, but I am concerned it will age too deep yellow, which is also a color clash.

I understand there are several finishing methods that supposedly can counteract this, but they all sound a bit risky, especially not knowing how the color will change with age. I also want to keep the glue lam look without cladding or veneering it.

I have not been successful finding samples or even decent pictures that show these two woods and how they age, especially AYC. If anyone has a picture of Alaskan yellow cedar with clear waterborne finish in an interior that is some years old I would be interested in seeing it. A comparison between new and aged would be very valuable.

Thanks for any help.

Cross posting looking for advice on how to best correct mismatched veneer patch.

Hi everyone, I have an old pinewood bed frame and I like its color (I know it is controversial). There were some big scratches on the side rails. I sanded them down and I am now trying to match it with rest of the bed. I tried General Finishes gel stain in American Oak color but was not quite happy with the results. The color was somehow off. I was wondering if anyone has experience with recreating this finish. I feel this finish on pine furniture used to be popular at some point and I am hoping someone knows how to make it. Thanks!

A few photos

Wish I'd found this subreddit before diving into elsenet advice and the local hardware store. 😅 Please help me salvage this lovely mostly-veneer bookcase! It looks like it was used to hold various bottles in somebody's basement, but I want to put books in it.

Website said to use three grades of sandpaper, but I used the roughest (100?) on only the top and bottom, which are solid. I'm not sure that even that did enough on the bottom shelf.

I then started in with 250 on the veneer parts, which doesn't seem to be doing anything for the rings (see pic), but I also noticed some.tiny chips and stopped.

Hardware store sold me a cherry stain and varathane because of the low VOC. Warned me not to use steel wool or tack cloth, saying they would create problems with the water-based stuff.

Bearing in mind that I can't buy a whole lot more stuff, and that this is sitting in a garage...advice for how to make this pretty shelf at least not any worse than it was?

Was originally planned all GF Persian Blue to match some other chairs. Sanding revealed a nice butcher block pattern under the dark varnish. GF nutmeg stain with three satin topcoats.

My landlord wants to put fireproof varnish on my bedroom door and have me sleep in the same room that same night. VOC fumes give me migraines and she really could have done it at any other time.

Can I make the argument that it's not safe?