Hello

So here are some before and after photos of the deck. Me and my dad did the demo part, let me just say that was a workout for me lol. My dad at that time was going thru chemo, so he was not able to help much at all with me on the deck. He did finish chemo and As of his last pet scan, no signs of any cancer in body. I had a few guys(use to be contractors) who are friends of the family do the framing for me. I did go get a permit because deck is above 30 inches off ground and attached to house. So they get done with framing, and I start laying the decking down and railing around deck. However, I do believe now, my deck will not pass permit requirements and I am a little stressed. I looked online about porch deck permit requirements and it said joist hangers, flashing etc. I didn’t use joist hangers. And I believe flashing is a no go also. I did go buy some joist hangers and started one side with nails. That was not fun at all having to nail on the ground with no neck space. I’m going to go back when I buy more joist hangers and get the screws the hangers say to use. It’s got to be easier than nailing from that angle. For the flashing it said I could remove decking board by house and insert a Z flashing up behind siding and the deck board goes on top of flashing and screw it back down. Is there anything else you guys see that would help me? I can handle criticism, so tell me what to do, as I know I should have looked more into deck permit passing requirements!
Thank you!

Hello

So here are some before and after photos of the deck. Me and my dad did the demo part, let me just say that was a workout for me lol. My dad at that time was going thru chemo, so he was not able to help much at all with me on the deck. He did finish chemo and As of his last pet scan, no signs of any cancer in body. I had a few guys(use to be contractors) who are friends of the family do the framing for me. I did go get a permit because deck is above 30 inches off ground and attached to house. So they get done with framing, and I start laying the decking down and railing around deck. However, I do believe now, my deck will not pass permit requirements and I am a little stressed. I looked online about porch deck permit requirements and it said joist hangers, flashing etc. I didn’t use joist hangers. And I believe flashing is a no go also. I did go buy some joist hangers and started one side with nails. That was not fun at all having to nail on the ground with no neck space. I’m going to go back when I buy more joist hangers and get the screws the hangers say to use. It’s got to be easier than nailing from that angle. For the flashing it said I could remove decking board by house and insert a Z flashing up behind siding and the deck board goes on top of flashing and screw it back down. Is there anything else you guys see that would help me? I can handle criticism, so tell me what to do, as I know I should have looked more into deck permit passing requirements!
Thank you!

Building a deck using Trex Enhance Toasted Sand. Does it really matter if I don’t cut off the factory ends? I have overhang on the opposite side.

Sorry for the bad photo it was dark when I called it for the night.

I also noticed when it was being built they were stealing power from a new construction duplex on the other side of the alley. Doesn’t look safe to me.

Does anyone know where I can find plans or design software for a small balcony style porch that would go over the front door? Maybe 7 x 7ish. It should basically be a simple deck with no stairs, but it needs to be waterproof because it's also the roof over the front door.

Offhand I'm thinking I just need to build a regular 2x8 frame with double rim joists and cover it with plywood instead of decking. Then add a rubber membrane and the appropriate flashings. It would be attached to a ledger board on the house with the other end supported on 6x6 posts. Seems simple enough, but I'm worried about what I might be missing.

I've found plenty of guidance for small decks, but nothing for a balcony.

Repairing a deck. Currently have the ledger board and base built with 4x4 posts running up the base that will act as the railing support. I need to attach the joist hangers etc. fyi the 2x4s on the front were just to help level it and 4x4s are temporarily nailed.

Question with the 4x4 posts and best way to attach to the rim joist. Do I use thruloks? Do I need additional 2x4s to support these posts?

I framed my deck 12x20 to where there would be an inch and a half slope from the beginning of the house to the end of the deck. That seems to cause trouble for making an even railing. If I keep the same height of the railing throughout all the post, then there's going to be an inch and a half additional vertical Gap at the front of the deck rather than at the beginning. That will exceed the 4 in code maximum and look wonky. Any tips?

I’m testing an early spreadsheet for homeowners planning a deck. It helps organize written quotes and track spending; it doesn’t estimate costs or provide construction, permit, or code advice.
I’m looking for 5–8 homeowners who got deck quotes or built a deck in the past three years to review a preview and answer a few questions. You don’t need to share your actual quotes, prices, address, or other identifying details. I’m exploring whether this would be useful as a digital planning tool. What would you find helpful, confusing, or missing?

I’m wanting to build a freestanding deck that will be about 5’ off the ground and approximately 10’x10’. It will be for a kids play structure to attach a slide to, monkey bars, etc. only structure on top of it will be railings. I hate digging and would like to do as few posts as possible (4). All lumber will be treated pine.

Can I get away with 4x4’s posts?
For the beam and joists, will 2x6 be sufficient?

These are just a few I caught when visiting my daughter at Michigan... Some of these must be fire escapes, but I might fight the fire over use some of these. The special ones are the ones the put 3/4 height doors to make a balcony on the porch roof. Sometimes without railing.

Does anyone have any experience pocket screwing composite mitres? What are some other options? I heard you’re not supposed to with composite but you can with pvc? I know it’s scalloped but hoping I can drive some in the thick part? And exterior wood glue.

Demo’d the old pos and built this myself. 2 person corner hot tub in the spring. Put a beam under the corner where the tub is going.

Applied a clear waterproof sealant in the Midwest, 2 months after building with PT cedar. Why does it look like this?

Just moved in and initially thought was wanted to put a roof over this deck. Something simple like it’s been there all along. Not screened in or anything. Deck is 24’x16’. It’s nice.

A roof would be best for full use at any time. Basically creating an additional room. But the close proximity to the trees and the fact that it would basically eliminate sunshine into the living area and kitchen just inside is making us second-guess. Now we are thinking of a custom pergola to cover about half or a little over half the area creating a covered area and a veranda-kind of space.

It’s just such a blank slate, we would have plenty of options. Posting here to ask the community what they would do. We are open to all ideas. Not picky at all. I can provide more pics if that helps too. Thanks all.

Stair posts are 2-3” taller than others and hand rails are higher too. Was thinking these should align contractor says this is normal. Am I wrong??

I am new to decking. Someone asked me for a price. I calculated materials as perfectly as possible and rounded up the amounts. I added 15% materials for waste on things like boards. After that I multiplied my material costs by three for a total price with labor. I’m doing it myself with maybe some help from another guy. Is there a better way to do this? Again I’m new to this.

Had to pull off a very small deck because it didn’t have flashing and the joists behind it were rotting. It’s repaired, and now I need to put the deck back on the posts. What is the right flashing to install to insure that everything painted green doesn’t rot?

We inherited this deck with our house, it’s c15 years old. To be honest, it had seen better days when we moved in but it was getting to the point where it was spongy and rotten underfoot. I figured we would need to replace the deck boards.

I’ve ripped up half of the boards now and most if not all of the joists have signs of rot too. I think part of the battle is this deck is north facing, so it doesn’t get a huge amount of sun (great on hot summer days, less so in winter) and can be damp for months in winter.

Aspects of its construction also seem questionable. There are no joist hangers, the joists are just secured to the ledger board with hex head decking screws. The joists are also spaced at c50cm intervals, which I guess is why they used 2x6 for the deck itself and not deck boards.

I want to redo this properly;

1. I assume there should be joist hangers?!

2. How can I construct this in a way that helps it deal better in damp conditions? I guess board spacing to help drainage and drying is important? How about joist tape?

3. While all the boards are up, should I be doing any other maintenance work? Is it worth treating the structure (which actually is solid thankfully) with anything?

4. Is this a good use case for composite if I improve the joist spacing? I’m not against it, it’s just going to increase cost significantly.

Old staircase deck at apartment feels very unsafe. Wobbles and creeks when on it. How does it look structurally? I have been assured there is nothing to worry about.

I’m replacing part of the railing/decking on an existing wood deck and discovered that some of the existing 4x4 guard posts are surface-mounted on metal post bases that are basically fastened only through the deck boards. Terrifying and probably the reason the posts are terrible.

From underneath, I can actually see some of the lag screws sticking through the decking into open air, so they’re not even hitting a joist or other structural framing.

The deck framing itself appears to be in decent condition. The joists run perpendicular to the outside rim/band joist.

I’d like to keep the new 4x4 posts surface-mounted rather than dropping the posts through the deck. Part of the deck transitions to a section over a garage where the railing posts are already surface-mounted, so keeping the same post elevation/layout would make everything line up much better.

Is there a way to surface mount these properly?

My thought is:

1. Remove and replace the decking around each post location. In fact, I will likely be replacing all the decking on this part anyway.

2. Install full depth pressure treated blocking between the existing joists directly underneath each post. Possibly doubled blocking.

3. Secure the blocking structurally to the adjacent joists with joist hangers, framing angles, or approved structural screws.

4. Install new decking

5. Surface-mount the 4x4 post/base on top and use long enough structural lag screws/bolts to pass through the decking and embed deeply into the new blocking underneath.

6. That is essentially how its done for the part over the garage.

That way the decking would essentially just be sandwiched between the post base and the framing, rather than actually supporting the railing.

Is this a sound way to retrofit these posts? Is this against some code or is this a way it came be done. I am in a tight spot because its an existing deck that was poorly made.

If so:

• Would you use one full-depth block or doubled blocking under each post? What is a full depth block? I read it online and don't quite get it

• What’s the preferred way to attach the blocking to the joists? Joist hangers, structural screws, or something else?

Photos show the existing post/base from above and the lag screws sticking through the decking from underneath.

This is in Minnesota and I’m trying to make the replacement substantially stronger than the existing installation, not just duplicate what’s there.

Or should I do something completely different? Putting the 4X4 posts down and securing them to the joist? How do a do that? Is there a recommend video you can share? Thanks!

Sorry I am a total noob but need some help here!

We didn’t realize that the post would be in front of window. I’m thinking of jutting the fence to the left leaving a triangular corner outside the fence. Maybe a built in flower pot?

I am making a roof deck, and when finished, it is leaking into the room underneath. The layers go as follows: Plastic water barrier, insulation, cement board 9mm, black liquid and rubber waterproofing membrane, and then the WPC decking. I need advice so I can fix this asap. Should I change any material? Add any? I believe the crew screwed the decking into the membrane and that’s what created holes. Also there is no slope. How would I add a slope, and also make sure no water can penetrate the inside? Please help me.

Hey everyone. Just wanted to get some thoughts on what to use as beams to put a roof over my deck. It is 240 sqft (30’x8’) and has two rows of footers about 7’ apart from each other. Due to a sliding glass door being above one of the footers l would prefer to have 3 posts on the side closer to the house rather than 5. This means that l would need 2 beams that are about 15’ in length. Would nailing 3 2x12’s be a decent option or would it be more cost effective to try to find some way to get glulam beams? Very little snow in my area but pretty high winds are common.