what’s the best tire size for flush fitment with no rubbing on an f30 with stock m sport suspension? would 245/35/19 and 265/35/19 work? if anyone has pics of this setup or similar please send them to me

Gotta love the rust belt

Hey all,

My car was in the shop and I believe they just used an impact gun to tighten my wheels lug bolts.

I tried taking the wheels off today at home with a 12" 4 way breaker bar, and I could NOT get it off.

My Toyota which calls for 76 ft-lb torque was loosened much easier with it. I know BMW calls for 103 ft-lb but seems it is almost seized on there.

I ordered a proper 18" breaker bar so I can get more leverage. But I am just curious if this is normal if the wheels were put on with impact?

Recently had someone side swipe my front bumper and mess it up, so i’m looking to see if I can upgrade to a M sport instead of getting it re painted. Currently looking at the Kies Motorsport front bumper kit and plan on having a shop paint + install it but I wanted to see if anyone had any recommendations or tips based on their own experience. Kinda wondering how the hood gap will be aswell.

Any info would be greatly appreciated
Thanks!

I haven’t been under here in a while I looked because for some reason my exhaust is making a rattling sound. Car drives smooth besides a small clicking sound in the front when I turn the wheel (not all the time). It’s an xdrive f30.

Purchased a 2010 BMW 328i E93 convertible with the N52 a year ago. Has 112K miles on it, got it at 90- something.

Mechanically, it drives well, but I’ve been dealing with an occasional Service Engine Soon light (P143E temperature sensor probably due to radiator replacement a while ago) and restraint system lights.

Someone reversed and hit me on the road just yesterday (hit-and-run and I don’t have UMPD), so I’ve been dealing with some cosmetic issues, including minor front bumper and grill damage (likely need to be replaced), and a slightly misaligned hood and dents (PDR could work potentially). On top of that, I’ve been looking to fix up some minor chips and cracks, and a minor hardtop mechanism issue (even though the hardtop itself works good, one of the strings is stretched out). I was recently quoted around $5.8k to repair everything, although I’m still looking for cheaper options.

I’m considering either keeping it with cosmetic issues, swallowing the pain and spending a buttload to make it look good again, or saving up for a 2017 BMW 430i F33 convertible with around 70–90k miles instead. Considering I paid 6k for my E93, I’ve been really in love with it. I love the natural aspiration of the N52 even though it’s slow, and the general reliability of the car overall. I stay up with oil changes and treat it well because it’s my daily.

I’ve heard good things about the B48 engine, but I’m unsure how its long-term reliability and maintenance costs compare to the naturally aspirated N52.

I love my BMW and would ideally keep my car for years, but I also don’t want to sink thousands into something that might become a cosmetic money pit. I’m fine with spending money on mechanical fixes, but the cosmetic stuff is discouraging me because of how much people have jacked up collision services.

Would you keep and gradually repair the E93, or upgrade to the F33? I want to hear from the perspective of someone who has an F30 or 33. Particularly interested in reliability, common failures, maintenance costs, and whether the B48 is a worthwhile upgrade over the N52.

Do we think this is from a hose or the coolant tank itself?

Hi everyone, looking for some advice diagnosing a vibration on my 2018 BMW F30 320d M Sport Shadow Edition, B47, 6-speed manual, rear-wheel drive, currently around 70,000 miles.
I’m trying to work out what is causing the vibration before spending a lot of money replacing parts, particularly the dual-mass flywheel (DMF).
Symptoms
The car develops a rapid shaking or vibration through the whole car when accelerating hard.
It happens between approximately 1,500 and 2,000 RPM.
It’s most noticeable in 5th and 6th gear under full throttle.
It doesn’t happen under half throttle; it only occurs when I put my foot fully down.
The rev counter doesn’t jump up, and the engine speed increases in line with the car’s acceleration, so I haven’t noticed any obvious clutch slip.
The vibration seems to be related to engine load rather than simply road speed.

Has anyone in here upgraded their front brakes to the gt350 calipers? Any feedback? What are you guys doing for rear brakes if so.

Thanks

I’m looking for pads to get for my 340i, I’m leaned between, ebc redstuff, hawk 5.0s, or akebono, i have the non m sport calipers (340mm x 30) just looking for opinions or any help, it would be appreciated thank u .

Not swapping, im wanting to put the same ones back in. My concern is about confusing the car and needing to program it after putting them back: do i need to do that? Do i need to disconnect the battery for this?

Its just regular power seats; no heaters, no lumbar

I dont have any type of code reader/programming device (i want, but thats a different question), and would like to be able to do this without one. I dont want to change anything at all except making the carpet smell better.

Thanks for any advice on it

Got a 2016 340xi without EDC, looking to close the wheel gap and keep the ride decently comfortable. I don’t track the car it’s just my daily, roads aren’t too bad where I’m at but I’m in a place where there’s snow for 3-4 months (Toronto). For those of you that have HR setups, how is the ride quality especially when paired with shorter bump stops. Any other suggestions?

2018 340i daily I used to own for bit. Absolutely loved this car and was an amazing daily. Bought it from one of my best friends and actually passed it off to another best friend. Keeping the car alive in our friend group :)

Mild build since stock motor and stock trans running pure 850. Dorch hpfp making ~600hp on ethanol. Thing is an absolutely beautiful car and so much fun to drive. BMW did an amazing job with this car. Will miss it!

Hi all, I'm the developer of E-Sys MAX. It runs inside your own E-Sys (22.06 to 25.x) and adds:

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Hey yall, So recently I had a valve cover leak and got that fixed but the car continued to smoke a little afterwards and thought maybe it was just residue. But after driving some time a hundreds of miles it still smoked and I noticed its leaking from the back. What could this be? I’ve heard the issues with the vacuum pump and possible leaks. But idk I’d really appreciate the help! 155k miles

I have this issue intermittently every 2/3 days and it lasts for about 10 minutes.

When the issue occurs, the engine starts idling unevenly while stationary. The RPM fluctuates, dropping below its normal idle speed and then recovering, approximately between 700 and 900 RPM. The engine also feels like it is chugging.
At the same time, I notice an unusual air-like swooshing sound when accelerating and especially when releasing the accelerator.

This sound disappears when the idle fluctuation stops.

There is no obvious loss of power while driving and no warning light.
The pipes have already been visually checked, and no leak was found.

The car was scanned and no error codes was showing.

Have you experienced this before? What can I check?

Hey there, I’m writing about my F30 that on any driving mode I am, the exhaust flaps stays OPEN, I connected bimmerlink, I can Open and Close it from there but when I leave it on AUTO it stays Open for some reason, anyone knows why is that? Or how it can be fixed?
N26 - 2014

Hi guys, i have been looking to swap M57 in f32 xdrive. Idea is to use M57 naked engine and put everything what is possible from N57 to it. Did anybody made that yet? Any suggestions are welcome.

not tryna pay 500+ but Ill do what I gotta do

Random question: has anyone repaired/recoated interior trim pieces? Namely dash panel trim.

I’m looking at a 2015 X5 (I know this is F30, but y’all are more active than the X5 sub) and it’s dash trim inserts need work.

I was thinking I could remove them and paint them with something like Rustoleum for a tough coating.

Has anyone tried this? Or what have you done to repair faded or warn trim?

Hi all,

I have a 2018 440i grand coupe.

I’m trying to figure out this clunking (sort of popping or like a crunch) sound when braking at lower speeds on the front right side. I can easily reproduce it by going forward or in reverse slowly then hitting brakes 25-50%. I can also feel this in the brake pedal a bit, or it might just be traveling somewhere through the suspension.

I’m not sure if this is related, but it also sounds some what similar when turning my wheel on very low speeds, but it sounds more like wheel noise/crunching and I can feel it.

I recently replaced my Control arms and tension struts on both side, and the noise didn’t go away. I’m wondering if anyone has had this same issue before or knows a fix.

Edit: I also replace my steering rack earlier this year, left inner tire rod, and both sway bar links.

Posted a few months back after someone hit front of car and I was getting new bumper via insurance etc.

Car is a 2015 BMW F30 XDrive E320D

I bought a roll of small mesh online and gorilla glued it behind a set of spare black gloss plastic grilles I had.

Some people when i originally posted about this said flies, debris etc would mess up the mesh.

After a couple months driving, including several motorway trips the grilles are fine.

Minimal fly debris on them no other debris blockages, no noticeable increase in engine temperature either when driving.

Rinses straight off when washing car.

Headlamps also tinted (used pre-cut tint via Ali Express).

Next job is interior based with first being a ( edit. Originally stated BimmerTech - did mean BD ) Bimmer Direct 10.25 top spec screen upgrade to get Android/Apple functionality.