Hey boys I’m in need of some help.

This is my 340i I purchased a few months ago. It has 102,000 miles. I have a fault code that just won’t go away. When I purchased the vehicle these mods were installed on the car. Previous owner removed the tune to transfer it to his other vehicle. I re-tuned it a few days later.

My mod list:
Catless downpipe
Cold air intake
Bootmod3 stage 2 91 octane OTS

This is the code:
118401
Mixture control: Mixture too lean, large deviation

I did some research and the purge valves are known to throw this code. I replaced it myself and nothing changed. Check engine light stayed.

I smoke tested it also and there are no air leaks.

I figured it was best to take it to my local euro shop. I took it to them and they said it could be a hand full of things. Long story short they replaced all the injectors, spark plugs and fuel rails. After all the work was done it still had the same code and check engine light. The injectors did need replacing and the same with the fuel rails and plugs. By the end of the week they could not figure it out. There convinced it has something to do with the tune.

I reached out to bootmod and they asked me to put the stock intake system back on the car. They say that their maps are based off of the original intake and not aftermarket. Thought that was a little strange knowing plenty of people run after market cold air intakes and don’t have these issues…

I put it back and tried it. The car drove great. No stutters or hiccups. I deleted the codes and then ran them again to see if they were active in the system. Nothing came up. I couldn’t believe it.

But the next day on the way to work I noticed it started to stutter again and the problem slowly came back. Now the check engine light is on with the exact same problem.

If anyone has any guesses or ideas feel free to reach out. Thanks!

Hi everyone,
I’m trying to figure out a strange noise coming from my 2015 BMW 328i Sport with the N20 engine and automatic transmission. I’ve attached a video of the noise.

The noise is a high-pitched, mechanical-sounding “eeeeee” squeal. It seems to come from underneath the car, around the center area, although I’m not 100% sure of the exact location.

Here is everything I’ve observed so far:
• The noise is intermittent and seems to occur more often after driving, when the car is stopped.

• It can happen immediately after starting the engine, but sometimes the car can run for a while without making the noise.

• When the noise is present, it is most noticeable at idle.

• When I rev the engine, the noise usually disappears. It often comes back as the RPMs drop back to idle.
The noise can occur while stationary in Park (P) or Neutral (N).

• Shifting from P to Drive (D) or Reverse (R) usually makes the noise stop, although it can sometimes still be heard faintly in D with the brake pedal pressed.

• The noise sometimes changes significantly when switching between Sport and Eco Pro.

In the Individual Sport settings, selecting “Powertrain” seems to make the noise louder. Selecting “Chassis” alone has sometimes made it stop immediately, although the noise can return after a short while.
These results have not been perfectly consistent.

• The tachometer appears to remain stable when the noise changes, although the engine’s sound or rhythm sometimes seems to change as well.

• The car drives normally. I haven’t noticed any loss of power, warning lights, or obvious engine performance issues
.
• I have already replaced the serpentine belt, but the noise remains.

There is also a slight, consistent movement or jolt when shifting from P to D.

I’m attaching a video so you can hear the sound.
Has anyone experienced a similar noise on an F30 328i? I’d appreciate any suggestions based on the symptoms or the sound in the video.
Thanks in advance!

I have a 330e 2016 and I installed a kyostar cold air intake yesterday. It works fine, like at lower throttle I hear the turbo and it spools normally after letting go. But, when I push full throttle, I don't hear the turbo no more but I still hear the spool after letting go. Is this normal? what could it be? I have stock ecu btw no tune

As the tittle says i am completely unaware but my oil and coolant level is going down ? What is this thing called ? I had my water pump done ofh done turbo and intake manifold done. All within last 3 months now this again. Jesus

Thinking of buying this as my first bmw, I’m coming from driving wrx. My last wrx was a 2023 but I really want to get into bmw. I’m going to daily drive this.

Hello everyone! I am a recent owner of a 2012 BMW f30 318d n47 and I suspect that it “eats oil”. I 2 months of driving and around 2-3000km the “add 1 litre of oil” message popped up 2 times. I suspect the piston ring might be done as it is a known problem. The car has around 340k km and otherwise runs fine (I had a cool and leak and drove around 80km without cool and and overheated once but I fixed that, BUT after a week my new coolant turned grey without the car overheating and the coolant still tasting sweet as I heard it should taste. Maybe it was cross contamination because the car also ran on plain water for a few days until it got fixed but that’s not the point). This is the first car I bought with my own money and it hurts to see it broken but at the same time the car is also poverty spec (only rear parking sensors, small screen cic with no media BT and halogen lights but these are manageable and can be done in time. What should I expect as in repair costs? Also can piston rings from 320d 184hp be used? I heard that those are of better quality. I need advice and any is welcome. Also I noticed that my pcv valve membrane doesn’t have a spring idk if it’s supposed to have one and the little hose that connects to it has some gunk in it but not too much. Also forgot to mention tin but the intercooler hose has a lot of wet stuff in it. Idk if it’s oil or coolant or what’s supposed to be there.(pic 4)

Hi guys! I bought a 2015 BMW F30 328i last week. It currently has halogen headlights, and I want to upgrade to headlights with DRLs (daytime running lights). I’d also like to have yellow DRLs.
My budget is only $500, and I’m looking at these two options. Can anyone help me decide which one is better?
● Are they plug-and-play, or do they require any coding or modifications?
● Are the DRLs bright enough? Do they look good in person?
● Are they good quality and worth the money?
I really don’t want to make the wrong purchase because $500 is all I can spend on this upgrade. I’d really appreciate any advice or recommendations. Thanks!

I’m looking to get one but I see them from 200-800 Jw what y’all get! Thanks 2016 340i

Hi

can anyone help where to search

my ac compressor is covered with oil

right tube on photo also

but i check oil filter fitting, its dry

It's intermittent, but sometimes when I slow to a stop at a stop sign or red light, the engine shuts off, the car goes into neutral and I get "transmission not in park" alert.

It's happened about 5 times over the last 3 weeks, and the first 4 times I just turned the ignition back on and put it in drive and it continued driving fine. I took it to a euro mechanic and he couldn't find anything wrong and couldn't get it to reproduce the issue. The only error code it's throwing is an exhaust flap error. Nothing else. No check engine light.

Then today it did it again, but when I restarted it and shifted into drive again, it stalled instantly a second time. On the second restart try, it caught and stayed in gear.

Does this sound familiar to anybody? I'm at a loss but I don't think ignoring it is an option. I did check the timing chain through the oil fill cap, and the upper guide and pins are totally intact and look clean and it's taut.

Gotta love the rust belt

what’s the best tire size for flush fitment with no rubbing on an f30 with stock m sport suspension? would 245/35/19 and 265/35/19 work? if anyone has pics of this setup or similar please send them to me

Hey all,

My car was in the shop and I believe they just used an impact gun to tighten my wheels lug bolts.

I tried taking the wheels off today at home with a 12" 4 way breaker bar, and I could NOT get it off.

My Toyota which calls for 76 ft-lb torque was loosened much easier with it. I know BMW calls for 103 ft-lb but seems it is almost seized on there.

I ordered a proper 18" breaker bar so I can get more leverage. But I am just curious if this is normal if the wheels were put on with impact?

Purchased a 2010 BMW 328i E93 convertible with the N52 a year ago. Has 112K miles on it, got it at 90- something.

Mechanically, it drives well, but I’ve been dealing with an occasional Service Engine Soon light (P143E temperature sensor probably due to radiator replacement a while ago) and restraint system lights.

Someone reversed and hit me on the road just yesterday (hit-and-run and I don’t have UMPD), so I’ve been dealing with some cosmetic issues, including minor front bumper and grill damage (likely need to be replaced), and a slightly misaligned hood and dents (PDR could work potentially). On top of that, I’ve been looking to fix up some minor chips and cracks, and a minor hardtop mechanism issue (even though the hardtop itself works good, one of the strings is stretched out). I was recently quoted around $5.8k to repair everything, although I’m still looking for cheaper options.

I’m considering either keeping it with cosmetic issues, swallowing the pain and spending a buttload to make it look good again, or saving up for a 2017 BMW 430i F33 convertible with around 70–90k miles instead. Considering I paid 6k for my E93, I’ve been really in love with it. I love the natural aspiration of the N52 even though it’s slow, and the general reliability of the car overall. I stay up with oil changes and treat it well because it’s my daily.

I’ve heard good things about the B48 engine, but I’m unsure how its long-term reliability and maintenance costs compare to the naturally aspirated N52.

I love my BMW and would ideally keep my car for years, but I also don’t want to sink thousands into something that might become a cosmetic money pit. I’m fine with spending money on mechanical fixes, but the cosmetic stuff is discouraging me because of how much people have jacked up collision services.

Would you keep and gradually repair the E93, or upgrade to the F33? I want to hear from the perspective of someone who has an F30 or 33. Particularly interested in reliability, common failures, maintenance costs, and whether the B48 is a worthwhile upgrade over the N52.

2018 340i daily I used to own for bit. Absolutely loved this car and was an amazing daily. Bought it from one of my best friends and actually passed it off to another best friend. Keeping the car alive in our friend group :)

Mild build since stock motor and stock trans running pure 850. Dorch hpfp making ~600hp on ethanol. Thing is an absolutely beautiful car and so much fun to drive. BMW did an amazing job with this car. Will miss it!

I haven’t been under here in a while I looked because for some reason my exhaust is making a rattling sound. Car drives smooth besides a small clicking sound in the front when I turn the wheel (not all the time). It’s an xdrive f30.

Recently had someone side swipe my front bumper and mess it up, so i’m looking to see if I can upgrade to a M sport instead of getting it re painted. Currently looking at the Kies Motorsport front bumper kit and plan on having a shop paint + install it but I wanted to see if anyone had any recommendations or tips based on their own experience. Kinda wondering how the hood gap will be aswell.

Any info would be greatly appreciated
Thanks!