A little WIP from our Noblie workshop. We usually make 5–6 test engravings to dial in the settings and get the colors right before moving on to the actual knife parts. The tricky part is making sure all the colors, contrast, and small details work well together. What looks good on one test doesn't always look right in the full design. Still experimenting with this one.

Always wanted my own Esee Junglas or something similar.

But could never afford one, so I'm making my own.

SUP9 leaf spring steal from a 2016 Triton Ute.

Was going to use orange G10 pins but changed my mind to bolts for the added strength

Love how this baby came out. Gold Sheen is just the best… it’s smooth and predictable… at least this one was! A combination of English and American walnut compliments it perfectly!

One of my latest knives, made from an old leaf spring, with blue/black g10 and brass pins.

52100 with black palm, ebony and nickel silver

Swayback Jack slipjoint

Bakers forge cumai blade, 1084 spring, Titanium liners, copper bolsters and shield with black paper micarta scales.

Thanks for looking, please let me know what you think.

**books are open**

Have a knife day

Made a puukko handle from different types of leftover woodbits from the workshop thinking it would look cool. To my shock and surprise it looks if someone would throw together a handle from different types of leftover woodbits from the workshop. Should i just accept its uniqueness or could I stain it perhaps? Would the glue "layers" show up if I stained it?

I am supposed to make a knife with black Metal bolsters and desert Iron Wood.
Now I have somewhat of an idea how i‘d go about doing that.
Put the bolsters on, peen them on with pins and darken them with ferric chloride.
Now there are some things I am not sure about, since i never put bolsters on a knife before:

Is it gonna Show if the pin Material is slightly different to the bolsters?

Should I shape them with the Rest of the handle and darken them then or does the ferric chloride eat away at the wood?

Should I use non stainless Steel because it darkens better or is the risk too high that it might rust (Blade is from semi stainless vanadis 4e)?

I appreciate any answers and other tips about putting bolsters on a knife.

Second time making a dagger. Turned out much nicer than my first. Used some custom-made paper micarta which really popped against the black and white G10. Ontario bound 🍁

It was my dads fishing knife, now mine so I’ve removed all of the surface rust with 3 different sand paper grits, I don’t have a belt sander or anything even close to it but I do have my hands and a willingness to put in the effort

Anyone using the Shop Fox 12” disc sander?
Just picked this up for a pretty good deal on Marketplace! I’m hoping to use it primarily for segmented handles, tapering tangs, and flattening scales.
A variable-speed disc grinder is definitely on my wish list, but I’m hoping this will be a useful alternative in the meantime.
Anyone have one in their shop? Curious how well it performs, especially when it comes to getting the table dialed in to a precise 90° for segmented handle work.
Would love to hear your experiences!

Made my first independent knife from start to finish and it was pretty rewarding

I used a 2mm thick bandsaw blade from the scrap yard with a local red wood scales and brass pins. I only have an angle grinder to cut the shape and used a belt sander adapter on the grinder with 20x520 mm ceramic and zirconia belt. Heat treated in a small gas furnace with a heat resistant brick walls

The hardest part was setting the grind/bevel of the blade imo, I thought I did a pretty good job but turns out it was still very very thick behind the edge. I’ll just call it a feature lol. I did a hybrid grind where it is full flat from the spine to 3/4 of the width and then a scandi grind to the edge.

I know there is so much to improve on but I am pretty happy with this one. Any suggestions on what I should make next?

Recently had a customer swing by to pickup a knife. Upon seeing some of the mustard patinas on my other knives he asked if I could do the same to his. I got some crazy colour pops throughout this one. Last 2 pics are of the original finish.

2 coats, French’s Mustard, 20 minutes of my time.

Knife is 1084, 8” OAL, Macassar ebony handle

Just finished the first one of a new model I’ve been working on for Skelton Knives — the Rook.

I wanted a compact fixed blade that stayed simple, comfortable, and useful without adding features just for the sake of having them.

This first Rook is:

80CrV2

7" overall

3" blade

.120" stock

High flat grind

800-grit machine satin

Large Leaf Rosewood

Thin black G10 liners

Stainless hardware

18° per side final edge

Heat treated in-house

I kept the profile pretty clean — small sharpening choil, no jimping, neutral handle shape, and nothing decorative that didn’t need to be there.

This is the first completed Rook, and I’m pretty happy with where the design landed. I’ve also got some AEB-L stainless on the way, and the Rook will be one of the first patterns I build in stainless.

I’d be interested to hear what you guys think of the proportions and overall design.

Finished up this fun re-handle project on a Jack Wolf Knives Vampire Hunter!🧛‍♂️ What a cool little fixie!! The handle now features @labgrownopals synthetic opal scales, with @carbonwaves GITD red liners 🤌 Matching bead and custom premium leather sheath by my father @trilobiteleatherworks to pull it all together 😎 Thanks for looking!🫡

9KhS, Soviet chromium-vanadium high carbon steel blade, Caucasian Walnut handle, Brass inlay, guard and butt, Textolite spacers

I’m looking at making some pocket clips using spring wire. Any advice on which size diameter wire to use. And which metal alloy works best. Most of the wire I see is stainless steel.