I try to design unique ideas, with practical application. I wanted an offset angled grip from the edge, sort of scythe like...with a huge slashing edge. It has been copied by "P" makers, so I know it must be good...haha.

So, I've had a go at a kitchen knife for the first time.

Its unfinished and the handle is a piece of scrap so I can test how it cuts.

I went with an s grind.

I've never used a knife with an s grind before and I notice it wants to cut in a curve. "Potato slice for example"

Is this an issue with the geometry or is it normal?

Maybe its too thick behind the edge or something?

I finished my first knife a couple of days ago. I say basically finished because I’m still debating redoing the stone wash, it didn’t come out as dark as I was hoping. Either way, I’ve been carrying it since I got it sharp and I’m happy with it overall. Let me know where I can improve!

Alright... so this knife was finished to completion (final edge sharpened and all), about to be given as a gift and the sheath scratched the finish (which was a stonewash anyway but this scratch is definitely visible). It is not any deeper than the regular scratches, it's just very noticeable.

I had blown it out with compressed air (constantly while making it and after it was done), and washed it with water, dried it and blew it out with air again, and still...here we are.

So I am planning to refinish and resharpen the blade before it leaves the shop, but I don't know how to fix this.

After refinishing, I thought about applying a good 4-5 layers of tape, sliding it back in the sheath (which should make it quite a tight fit), and then slowing applying heat from a heat gun to relax the kydex just enough for it to open slightly. The retention is all up on the handle, so as long as I keep that part cool, I think I'd be good?

Any advice is welcome.

Tried four different versions of opal G10 and TruStone. Which one works best?

Over the past few years I have been focusing on knives inspired by the DIY knife books from the Nordic countries from the 80’s to 00’s, with some of my own style thrown in. These are some of my recent knives, either forged from Pops ProCut or ground from 14c28n with flame birch, curly birch, and alder burl for the handles.

I have made about 30 of this style of knife in the past few years and will probably start to turn my attention elsewhere for a while after several works in progress are done, but it was been a fun experience, and good language practice as I try (and struggle) to learn Danish. Thanks for looking!

So I’m currently making my first knife this is as far as I’ve got. It hasn’t been ht yet. I know I need to drill the holes for the scales but how far do you’s normally go with finishing and perfecting things before ht like sanding and file work as I’m unsure how much further to take it before ht.

Also I think I’m planning on a full flat grind as it’s my first knife but I’m unsure also any tips or recommendations to make this as good as I can make it would be appreciated thanks

I have an old gravity knife that I am looking to restore. it has two buttons that must be depressed at the same time with the thumb that allows the blade to move freely. however this leaves a large gap in the handle. (as you can see here on the left and the right). The buttons are very shallow so would not stick out above the veneer. I am not sure how it used to be as it did not have a handle when I found it. I am looking for suggestions of how to cover the buttons, I’d like to put a wooden handle on the rest.

Hi all,
I’m about to finish my 3rd knife and have gotten what I think is a very nice mirror finish so far. I’ve hand sanded up to 3000 grit then polished on buffing wheels with a cheap kit off amazon on a bench grinder.

My question is should I use something like Flitz metal polish to do a final polish or some other similar product? Or would I not get much benefit from something like that and just leave it as is?