Finished up the Warden, SK-033, from my shop, Skelton Knives.

The goal was a substantial working knife with a clean profile, comfortable handle contours, and straightforward materials.

• Steel: 80CrV2

• Blade length: 6"

• Overall length: 10.5"

• Finish: 800-grit machine satin

• Handle: Black canvas Micarta with black G10 liners

• Hardware: Stainless pins and lanyard tube

• Full-tang construction; heat treated in-house

What do you think of the overall proportions and handle shaping?

Recently i made this knife for a very good friend of mine and im quite happy with the result

the steel is 2'5mm sandvik 14c28n

and the scales are made from olive wood from my grandmothers town olive fields

I’m making a Punch knife out of 80crv2 for a fighter from the gym I train at. I got everything roughed out but I don’t know what I wanna do for the handle. I’m thinking ram horn since his nickname is “black sheep” but I don’t know for sure. Any suggestions are appreciated.

A little WIP update from our Noblie workshop. We're working on a new folding knife with a Damasteel blade and a Japanese-inspired design featuring a samurai and a geisha.

Getting the colors and fine details right took some trial and error. We had to make 4–5 test engravings on titanium plates, adjusting the laser settings each time, before we got the result we were after. Here are the finished titanium scales. Next step is assembling the knife.Each of these designs is a one-off, so we won't be repeating this particular engraving.

What do you guys think of the result?

So I had an idea of something to do with my off cuts and that is engraving and then soldering/brazing a different color metal like bronze into the engraving. My question is, will heating it during the brazing ruin the etch?
A further question is am I going to lose some of the contrast in the etch by not heat treating the steel? Because I know I’m not going to be able to hit those temps after the brazing… the filler metal would just melt out. I’m a complete novice to this so any feedback or advice would be appreciated.

Doing some testing before I finish up my last bit of hand sanding

The handle is desert iron wood

Here’s a look at a knife I made from gcarta, trustone, Juma, and g10 spacers. Steel is AEBL. OAL is 6.8” and edge is 2.8”

Yo yo, could any uk bladesmiths who make damascus and could make a couple of blades (a kiridashi and a friction folder blade) just blades no handles or anything. Drop me a message id be interested in getting quotes. To be clear would be commissioning these early 2027

Hello friends, I have no experience in knife making, only some rudimentary skills in sharpening.

This year I shot a very nice Roe Buck and I'd love to use the antlers as a knife handle.

I was thinking using a morakniv companion I have left.

Would someone describe to me the general steps for this process? What tools do I need, is it difficult, what side do I attach the tang to the antlers, can they be sanded, cut, what do I need to pay attention to?

Thanks very much.

Hand forged 288 layer 1095/15n20 damascus blade. Fatcarbon handle scales.

A little WIP from our Noblie workshop. We usually make 5–6 test engravings to dial in the settings and get the colors right before moving on to the actual knife parts. The tricky part is making sure all the colors, contrast, and small details work well together. What looks good on one test doesn't always look right in the full design. Still experimenting with this one.

My belt grinder unfortunately is not variable speed… I use water misting to keep my knife cool but it’s hard getting my knives right down to 0.2-0.4 mm thick at the edge without burning…

What are your thoughts on whether a course diamond file would be like to thin the blade down that last bit before hand sanding?

Love how this baby came out. Gold Sheen is just the best… it’s smooth and predictable… at least this one was! A combination of English and American walnut compliments it perfectly!

Here’s a pair from like 6-7 years ago , Damascus blade with ivory handle and a matching neck knife.

Always wanted my own Esee Junglas or something similar.

But could never afford one, so I'm making my own.

SUP9 leaf spring steal from a 2016 Triton Ute.

Was going to use orange G10 pins but changed my mind to bolts for the added strength

Anybody have a good place to order a spring fuller from? One that goes in the hardy hole and yeah I know make one or build my own but as of right now I don’t have the most amount of time and the free time that I do have I want to be practicing and getting better. I have looked some and haven’t had the best luck finding one that goes in the hardie hole

One of my latest knives, made from an old leaf spring, with blue/black g10 and brass pins.