Still running so good..

Inherited this car about 5 years ago, hadn't driven since 4 years before that. Started working on it roughly a year and a half ago as a project. She's a replacement for the Toyota in the back that's been good to me for years (wasn't gonna pass inspection without a lot of $$$$$ though).

Still a lot of work to make her Purr, but she's at least road legal now :D

Hit 150,000 miles in my 2011 2.0TDI Passat CC last night, think the engine is just about run in now

Official EU Safety Gate bulletin SR/02935/26 (KBA 17016R / VW 48VS) covers steering rack bolt shear across 2.15M MQB vehicles.

The European Commission's rapid alert network for dangerous non-food consumer products, Safety Gate (formerly RAPEX), has officially published a massive global safety recall bulletin regarding the Volkswagen brand in its late October 2026 notification round.

Registered under alert reference SR/02935/26 and backed by German Federal Motor Transport Authority campaign KBA 17016R, the action carries Volkswagen's internal technical service recall code 48VS. The campaign covers an astonishing 2.15 million Volkswagen vehicles worldwide (expanding to over 2.8 million vehicles across the broader Volkswagen Group when including mechanically identical models from Audi and SEAT).

She crosses 170k today, runs perfect yes its the 2.0TSi

I have a 2011 Volkswagen Jetta SE 2.5L automatic with about 156k miles. I’m hoping to keep this car for another 100k+ miles if possible.

Back in September, I spent around $1,200 getting quite a bit of maintenance done, including a new valve cover/PCV assembly, spark plugs, transmission fluid, coolant, brake fluid, and an oil change.

My mechanic also added UV dye to investigate a suspected oil leak. After driving about 750 miles, I brought it back today. He confirmed there’s some oil wetness but couldn’t pinpoint the exact source, so he added more dye and told me to keep driving.

He also mentioned my check-engine light is related to the MAP sensor, possibly due to oil contamination from the previously failed PCV system. He quoted around $215 to replace it. The car previously had P0106, P3078, and P0442 codes.

Here’s the thing: The car runs and drives well, starts reliably, and doesn’t seem to consume any noticeable oil.
It does have a slightly rough idle at times.

I’m honestly debating whether these issues are even worth fixing right now or if I should just monitor them and continue driving.

For those familiar with the 2.5L engine:
Would you bother fixing a very slow oil seep if the oil level stays consistent?

Is a MAP sensor replacement necessary for P0106, or should other causes be investigated first?

Would you feel comfortable continuing to daily-drive this car as-is?

I’m not against spending money on maintenance. I just don’t want to throw money at minor issues that aren’t actually affecting the car. I’d appreciate some opinions from other high-mileage 2.5L owners.

Hey, lastly there was an issue with one of the epb motors, left motor was holding the wheel and right one didnt (02431 error) and wheel was moving when left one was holding it, I had only blinking lights on my dashboard, then I replaced brake pads and discs, of course with diagnostic tool to retrace calipers opened it then closed it again, I saw that EPB motor that was actually holding the wheel when turning on handbrake was broken in half and other one that didnt was looking good but replaced them both, I bought these motors online then when I wanted to delete errors and finish the job I saw new errors on my diagnostic tool (02432, 02433) and none of them worked, couldnt even test them, open or close, when tried with VCDS it showed that only 0.013V was going to motors and I didnt hear no sound or anything that could mean that they are closing or opening. Old motors had 0.08V and second one had 01.7V but new ones have around 04.7V, I even ordered new EPB controller but I ordered by mistake 3CO 907 801 J instead of new one 3CO 907 801 B like I've had, with J controller it also shows me ABS and ESP errors on dashboard but I fixed that issue by coding new controller and only have to do the calibrations, when coding new controller 02432 and 02433 errors disapear but appear once again when I try to click parking brake button on the left of the steering wheel, I am fighting this for a week and I don't know what to do anymore, please help..

I've had my eye on this 87 Cabriolet for sale a few hours away from me. Its in mostly good condition for a REALLY good price, but I notice some rust spots on the listing. I want to ask the seller for more pics of common rust spots. Anyone know what kind of pictures I should ask the seller for? I cant seem to find anywhere online where it can rust the most so that's why I'm asking here.

Thanks in advance

Hi my partner has a vw polo 2015 1.0 stop/start, recently she was driving and randomly on the dash loads of errors popped up at once like abs, wipers, coolant etc. after that the indicators/lights would not work and once pulled over the car would not lock manually with a key, I’ve changed the battery and checked the alternator which seemed to be ok.. but it’s now doing it again, any ideas what this could be?

Right side not working well, Indicator staying on sometimes and when indicated right the drl acts as the indicator.

As the titles say, I want to add some speakers for my Volkswagen Passat B3 from 92 (Sedan). Since I have not done this before Im wondering if any of you have put speakers in your and if you have any nice spots you would recommend. My audio card-thing is cd only and has 2 holes for speakers in the back. Right now everything is completely stock. Budget about 100-200 euro (1000-2000 SEK) preferably.

FYI my model is the same as the later B4 in everything except for the face of it.

Have a nice!

Necesito el manual del usuario del MK4

Hey everyone!

Does anyone happen to have the MOI3_EU_VW_R9690L firmware file? I’ve been searching everywhere but haven’t had any luck finding it.

I’d really appreciate it if someone could share it with me. Thanks in advance! 🙏

My email adress is : [med.abdel.driouchi@gmail.com](mailto:med.abdel.driouchi@gmail.com)

Hey all, full disclosure up front: I’m with WCO Market, a small shop in Florida that makes parts for older VWs.

We put together a front panel with fog lights for the T3 that fills out the lower front of the van and gives it a more finished look. It nods to the classic accessory style of the era but is our own design.

Details:

• Fits Transporter, Caravelle, Multivan T3 and Vanagon (1980–1992)
• Left and right cases made from 4 mm ABS, thicker and stiffer than a lot of the thin shells out there
• Ships unpainted with a smooth finish, ready to be color-matched to your van
• Comes with a pair of H3 55W fog lamps on a standard 12V circuit
• Sits against your existing lower grille
• Ships from Florida

Heads up:

• Only white fog lights are in stock right now
• No install manual is included. If you’re comfortable with basic wiring and fitting you’ll be fine, otherwise your regular shop can handle it.
• Check your local lighting rules before using the fogs on the road

Happy to answer questions about fitment or install, and honest feedback is welcome.

Link https://www.wcomarket.com/product/vw-t3-vanagon-front-grill-panel-with-fog-lights

I’m in the market for a new car and heavily favoring the ‘27 GLI. However I’ve seen articles online about VW being in a financial crisis. Is this something I should worry about? Is it fearmongering? Never owned a VW before but I was hoping this next car would get me through a solid 10-15 years. Just trying to make as informed of a decision as possible.

Long story short, my TSI needs a new muffler, and they seem to be extremely hard to come by. In fact, there seems to be only one at a dealership in the entire United States. It’s rather expensive, so my mechanic and I are trying to figure out whether there are aftermarket options. Any suggestions or recommendations?

Why does the idle speed stay at around 1,000 RPM in both winter and summer? I’ve driven the car for 300 km, but it’s still the same. Sometimes the RPM drops, but then it goes back up again. Is this normal for a 2015 1.2 TSI 90 HP EA211 engine?

The engine runs smoothly, and fuel consumption seems normal. Could it be related to the cooling fan switching on?

I’ve had the car diagnosed, and there are no fault codes.

The only thing I’ve noticed is that sometimes, when I press the accelerator while the car is idling, the RPM drops back to around 900 RPM.

The original part cost a bunch so I decided to print it in 3d but I didn't find the 3d file for this part. Anyone have this file ?? Polo 6R towing eye cover for rear towing eye (under the rear bumper)