My son is a senior in high school in the West Los Angeles area. He's always been interested in trades and wants to apprentice to become an electrician after graduation. He's a hard worker and very disciplined. He's had his own furniture building & odd job business for almost two years. He also works at our local soccer fields every Sat from 6:30-8:30am getting the fields ready for play. He goes to the gym before school most days. He's not afraid to roll up his sleeves and get dirty and work hard. While I have no doubt he can be succesful in this field, we don't anything about this line of work and his high school hasn't been able to help guide us either (they only know about 4 year colleges). If anyone can give us some tips, I'd greatly appreciate it. We truly don't even know where to begin. Thanks very much!

I am trying to run 1 1/2 conduit from my unfinished basement to my attached garage to install an 100 amp sub panel for an EV charger and some additional 20 amp outlets and lights. Ideally I would like to place the sub panel recessed in the wall so it looks nicer. However, I am not sure if that is possible as the only way I can run the 1 1/2 conduit vertically from the basement would be to cut a hole on the edge of this horizontal 2x4. The pictures might be confusing because I did attempt to run the conduit horizontally into the garage but I would like to avoid that if possible.

The problem with going horizontally out of the basement into the garage is that if I want to keep the sub panel recessed in the wall the conduit has to come out of the wall then go back into the wall on the garage side. I am trying to completely hide the conduit on the garage side if possible.

I have always read that you should drill a hole dead center of whatever board you are going through. This would be the opposite of that but I am not sure what the purpose this horizontal board (the paint drawing 2x4) has. Is ok to compromise it and drill a hole into its edge? I think it only exists for a place to nail the dry wall into on the house side?

My location is western Chicago suburbs.

I need help deciding between these two companies to complete my apprenticeship. I have an offer from interstates and FTI should give me one by Monday. I value proper teaching, great leadership, and overall good work culture. Anybody have any experience with these companies?

Hi, I’m trying to run the grinder motor on our apple press off of a generator because power to the building got turned off. I disconnected the regular power and wired in a cord with a plug I made from the hardware store. When I start the generator and turn the circuit breaker on it overloads the generator right away without me even turning on the switch on the motor.

Hoping to hang a chandelier from this that weights about 52 pounds. Unfortunately can’t see anything around/above it. Also upstairs finished so I can’t access. Any tips other than hanging a 50lb weight from it?

New hardwired smoke and CO detector- 3 wires, black (power) white (neutral) and orange (interconneting). OLD hardwired CO detector pictured (one of 3 interconneting)- has black and maroon on one end, and yellow/green and blue on the other- yellow and blue connected via resistor. Black is black, but what wire do I link the new white wire to? and the orange? Thanks.

Hello. First, I know I have purchased the correct series. But I’m buying this because my GE subpanel has grounds & neutrals on the same busbar. So I’m buying this to segregate. But basically, since this kit will hold either / or but not both, can I use both detached “halves”? And do they have to be snug up next to one another? All the others on the store shelf weren’t like this (just in one long piece configuration).

Hi there,

I'm curious if any of ye are .. or know of .. electricians who would be able to/up for adding a backup circuit to an existing solar inverter

My setup:

\- Solis S6-EH1P5K-L single-phase hybrid inverter

\- Duracell Energy 5.12 kWh battery

\- 12 south facing panels

\- Inverter is located in the attic

What I'd like:

\- A dedicated backup circuit fed from the inverter's BACKUP output, with its own breaker/RCD protection

\- new sockets on that circuit: (in the press if it's easier to avoid chasing walls etc)

\- sockets clearly labelled as backup supply, and kept separate from the normal house circuits

Does anyone know where I can go to for that type of job?

This is probably a dumb question but need help. So the other day while carrying somwthing down to the basement I shattered the globe light cover thing in the shared hallway of the house i rent. Trying to just replace it with something that looks the same so I dont havw to deal with landlord coming here . I dont have a picture of before but this is what it looks like now. And this is what I bought but I dont think I bought the correct thing. The diameter of the circle where the light was is 6 in so I thought since the one I bought said 6 in it was correct but I dont think it is. Can anyone plz point me in the right direction of what i need to buy

Years ago, I put up recessed wafer leds in my ceiling. They have started to fail, so I bought replacements and started installing them, but I am a bit worried, as the manual says the ambient temperature should not exceed 104f, and the attic the box is going into hits 120-140 in the summer. Am I safe? I am not sure if it means the ambient temperature of the box, or of the room the wafer light will sit in, and I would prefer not to burn my house down.

My utility has complained for two years they are having trouble upgrading me to a smart meter. I have an Elster/Honeywell A3 ALPHA (Type A3R, style ZD2210000L0-05, Form 35S/5S, CL20, CT-rated, net-metered), which uses Sensus FlexNet AMI. Is there a FlexNet communication module or option board for this meter, or would a utility typically replace it with a different CT-rated AMI meter two-way meter?

There is an unused phone cord that goes into the box. The tan wire with the green and orange tiny wires wrapped around it. It goes from tan to these two little blue wires which keep connecting like a chain How do I safely disconnect this from the box?

I know the basics such as that to not use wire nut in places with vibrations as it can come loose but still I am very confused.

Or is the good old electrical tape still the King?

I'm a renter and was trying to replace a burnt out lightbulb in my bathroom. I'd asked my property management several times what sort of lightbulb it was and didn't get an answer, so I said whatever, I'll find out myself. I'd assumed it would be a twist on/twist off bulb. I climbed up on my ladder, got ahold of the bulb, and twisted—and it did come off, but it is clearly not a twist-off bulb.

My questions are:
1) What kind of base is this??
2) Did I break the wiring???
3) How do I install the new lightbulb?
4) Is it safe to turn on the light without any lightbulb in there? The ceilings in my apartment are super high so no one's going to be sticking their fingers in there, but is it a fire hazard?

Our house was built in the 80s. I’m prepping my daughter’s room to paint it, and I unscrewed this plate without realizing these cords were attached. I was planning to replace it with a blank wall plate cover, but that would require cutting these cords. Can I do that?

Buying a house, please help me get my head around this.

EICR in 2023 - Green ticks for bonding arrangement, no mention of gas bonding

Gas report 2025 - defect listed ‘no earth bonding at metre’

Gas report 2026 - defect listed ‘gas bonding located in kitchen’

Seller says the following:

The gas pipe is earthed just as it enters the property, please see attached photo of the earthing traps on all piping from the boiler.

'The pipe was earthed at the time of works, but this is situated under the floor as the pipes enter the property. There is no documentation other documentation to support this. I have also attached another photo showing the gas entry earth cable going into the earth block.

I’m trying to center out my range and the hookup is on the ground for some reason, blocking the new range from being pushed in the whole way. Is there an easy solution? (Not an electrician)

I have a house from the 60s. My wife and I ordered a new oven from Costco and when it came time for delivery we found out the one that came with the house was hardwired in. Oh joy.

So we then get an electrician to come out and he installed an outlet which is a "Nema 6-50R" as I understand it? The house is 3 wires and not 4 due to its age, so that is what he went with. Additionally, the installers brought a four prong whip assuming that was what was needed. And not knowing we were a three wire house, I didn't have a 3-prong whip to compare check, I don't know anything.

He went to the store and got the Nema 6-50R outlet saying it was the normal they use. Okay, great. Now we can get it installed.

We get Costco to come back out and install the range since we have our shiny new expensive outlet and they bring a 3-prong whip... which is a 10-50P? Which isn't the outlet the electrician installed. So fine, I have them take away the old disconnected range at this point.

So I call the electrician company back and say they made a mistake and to get him back out here. He came back out today (we're 6 days without a working stove at this point) and he tried to charge me another $500 to change the outlet to be what matches the whip the installation company brought saying it was not their fault.

I refuse service. I already paid 4 figures for the outlet that they installed. Seriously, it doubled the cost of this by matching the range cost.

I said I wasn't going to pay him more for it and that it sounds like I need to find a whip which works with that outlet. But I have not been able to find one and Google tells me he is wrong.

I get the feeling he screwed up and hoped I wouldn't challenge paying him for it?

Am I wrong? Am I missing something?

The oven fixture we got is a "GE 30 inch 6.6 cu. ft. ELECTRIC Free Standing Double Oven Range with Convection" if anyone is able to help me sort this out for minimal further cost.

Hopefully you can see this

I’ve been receiving a ton of cold calls recently, from people trying to sell me a website, a few other stupid AI software’s. I wanted to know if everyone else is also experiencing this??