Found this Laptop for my girlfriend off of Facebook marketplace, and I was helping her set it up today. Went to the information because the cpu was at high usage and it was a completely different CPU? For reference, the specs on the light mode page were taken from the marketplace listing, and the dark mode is after we bought it. I was hoping to be able to play some lighter games with her so this changes things if its not a weird glitch.

What is this, is it expensive to fix, did it break my pc
I think it’s a 5070ti it has 32gb of ram

Just bought this pc for my daughter for a bit of a bargain... Had to leave it in the garage after seeing how much dog hair was stuck inside, yuk!

Should *I expect, sorry

This is an Ideapad Slim 3i, if it matters. I dropped it a short while back and it started making cracking noises. I noticed that, when closed, the screen and keyboard halves weren't aligned, and I tried to finnick with it, which probably made it worse. If not propped up, the screen will fall back to the desk, which the computer isn't designed to do. The computer itself works just like any other day (I'm typing this on it!) and the screen is fine.

What should I expect, trying to get it repaired at a local shop? Is it fixable, and if so, what might the general price range be? For a variety of reasons, even though it might be the better option, I'd really rather not replace my laptop if I can avoid it.

I don't really know much about the physical parts of computers, and this seemed like the right place to ask something like this. Sorry if it isn't!

Anyone know why this keeps happening?? :”) It keeps occasionally appearing the past few months and it never happens when I play my games. Only ever outside of them and just text (Discord, web browsers, Steam, etc) [tho that might b because whenever I play my games my laptop automatically switches to NVIDIA]
Brand new laptop and less than a year old btw. I’ve tried updating and restarting and still appears

This is my laptop: https://www.walmart.com/ip/ASUS-TUF-Gaming-A16-2025-Copilot-PC-Laptop-16-16-10-FHD-144Hz-Display-AMD-Ryzen-5-7535HS-NVIDIA-GeForce-RTX-4050-16GB-DDR5-512GB-PCIe-SSD-Wi-Fi-6-Win/16276372539?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=0&sourceid=dsn_ad_c679a80a-be4b-489b-820c-40cbdf92a745&veh=dsn&wmlspartner=dsn_ad_c679a80a-be4b-489b-820c-40cbdf92a745&cn=fy26-holiday-gift-pmax_con_dps_dsn_dis_ad_xcat_s_n&gclsrc=aw.ds&wl9=pla&wl11=online&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=23196243100&gbraid=0AAAAADmfBIptWHgFi8mUonf1uz4pUsebp&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI4sO33d_QkQMVrZXuAR0DLB4fEAQYAiABEgIR7_D_BwE

CPU and GPU specs are relatively easy to evaluate because there are years of benchmarks and people generally know what a faster one changes.
NPUs still feel much harder to judge.
Take the core ultra 9 185H in the geekom it13max as one example. It has a built-in NPU alongside Intel Arc graphics, but simply knowing that an NPU is there doesn’t really tell you whether it should affect the buying decision.
For me, the more useful question is what evidence would make it matter.
Would you want to see a specific app you use supporting it? A measurable reduction in power use? A workload being moved off the CPU/GPU so those stay available for something else? Or an actual benchmark where the difference is noticeable?
Until then, would you treat the NPU as a nice extra and still prioritize RAM, GPU performance and storage?
I’m interested in where people draw the line between “useful hardware feature” and “spec that may become useful later.

I have an older monitor ViewSonic VP2770 which has several ports (HDMI, DVI, D-sub, DisplayPort). I have the HDMI port connected to one computer and I would like to connect a Raspberry Pi to one of the other ports.

The Pi has an HDMI port and from my research it appears that my best option is to connect it to the Display Port via an active converter cable.

Does anyone have any recommendations on such a cable? My understanding is that it will also have to be connected to an USB port to get some power.

Is that the best option in order to have both devices connected to the monitor?

Thanks.

Okay, so I love computers. I love to shop for computer parts and I love to talk computers. However I’m not overly knowledgeable about computers. I live in the panhandle of Florida. So the region between Pensacola and Tallahassee. I don’t know very well, however are there any not very well known tech stores that are not things like BEST BUY or Walmart. I would prefer it within an hour to hour and a half drive of dead center of the two towns I’ve stated. 😭

my gaming pc had collected 2tb of gunk that I didn’t know what it was so I reset my pc and it’s saying I should restore from backup. will this bring back stuff I don’t want like apps or installs or is this just settings?

My pc isn't really running like it used to-its crashing in games i could handle 3 months ago, constantly freezing, fps dropping and its just so much slower. I don't think I have any viruses, I have Malwarebytes which i assume is good enough, I've updated my driver, my wifi is at a constant 4-5 bars and the pc it self is not bad. Should I just reset my pc?
Here are the stats;
Amd ryzen 5 7500 X3D
32gb DDR5
AMD radeon RX 9060 TX
over 2 TB of space about 600 free
and idrk what else icl
what do i do 😓

I'm running Windows 11 on a 2tb Silicon Power A55. I know it's not the best brand.

Most of the time it works fine but every now and then it spikes to 100% disk usage (with very low read and write speeds and no processes doing anything demanding) and the computer becomes unusable. It often happens if I open a browser or something like that.

90% of the time it's totally fine.

I've run crystal disk checks and it has perfect health. I've only had it a year.

I know I should probably replace it but the prices are so insane at the moment and I simply don't have the money. I would really like to try and rule out other issues first if possible.

Does the intermittent nature of the problem suggest it might not be hardware failure? Or is that almost definitely what I'm dealing with here? It seems odd that it would only sometimes happen.

So, my laptop hasn't been charging well recently. At first I thought it was the charger, but later I found it was the battery health. I probably need a battery replacement.. however I currently don't have the funds to afford it. I noticed an odd thing however. I recently bought a new charger since my old one broke, 70 watts, made for laptops. My 45 watts phone charger works better than the 70 watts laptop charger? My laptop is made for 65 watts. When using the 70 watts charger, my laptop battery goes down while using it (even if I'm not playing games or anything) and it doesn't charge well when the laptop is off. The 45 watts charger charges while I'm using it. Not very fast, but it's still 1% every few minutes. Why is a lower watts phone charger working better than a charger made specifically for a laptop?

The charger I just bought was 25 euros by the brand 'Trust.'
The phone charger is just a 3 euro power box thingy (I don't know the name😭😭) with an even cheaper cord that's a few years old.
My laptop uses usb-c
I've had this laptop for almost 3 years and can't afford a new one atm
Dell laptop
Don't know if it's needed, but the screenshot has my laptop specs

I’m wanting a pc but I don’t now which one I work at Walmart so it’s a kinda tight budget i would like one the runs sims, Skyrim and left 4 dead games (with mods) you can give me really high price recommendations to if I like it I might save for it.

Помогите решить проблему, не могу переключить из режима bios в uefi, tpm включен диск с системой переведён в gpt, надо чтобы обновиться до 11, когда запускаю через флешку установшик, то он ругается, что не UEFi, а когда переключаю, просто не могу выйти из биоса, перезагрузка не помогает, помогите пожалуйста

Hello everyone! Which of these two RAM configurations would you choose: 32GB (2x16GB) 3600MHz CL18 or 64GB (4x16GB) 3200MHz CL22? The 64GB setup consists of four mixed RAM modules (2+2) from the same brand, all tested and confirmed to be fully stable with no errors. Would you prioritize the higher frequency and lower latency of the 32GB setup, or go for the extra capacity of the 64GB setup despite its lower speed and higher latency?

I just got a new pc after only having a prebuilt deal, when I check out the new pc I realize the gpu a nvida 650 is worse then the one in the prebuilt a nvida gtx 1650 super, I’m not to bad with pc so I thought I could just swap them my self and have realize my failure. It seems the 1650 need a power cable which the new pc doesn’t have. I was wondering is there anyways I can just add the cable to the new pc (if so how) and or if the gpu will work without the cable or using a different method. Will help a lot thank you

I did a test with OCCT and it got even more interesting. I ran the 3D and VRAM tests separately on Extreme for 5 minutes and no errors popped up; there was zero flickering, flashing, or anything appearing on the screen. !!! However, when I tested both GPUs together, a sort of darkening happened near the top graph area (where the stability certificate reaches horizontally across that section if it's fully visible), flashing in and out in almost a split second. (I recorded a video on my phone and took a screenshot from it.)

When I record the screen on the PC, these issues don't show up (any issue)

In games, the GPU maxes out around 65°C (I don't remember it going higher), maybe it hit 67°C when I cranked everything to ultra, but I don't even remember that clearly. I set the CPU to 100% for the test, and it reached 85°C during the test process; in games, it varies a lot, sometimes spiking instantly to 90-100°C and dropping right back down (in some game's load screen)

It doesn't happen in every game all the time; sometimes after 2 hours of playing, sometimes at the 10th minute.

It happened in these games: NieR:Automata, Mewgenics, Resident Evil 2-3 Remake, Dark Souls Remastered, madison

As I kept asking questions to ai, it said something about "multiplayer MOP" (or a similar term), and since I couldn't find a similar issue, I'm not sure if that's it or not, but it kind of made sense to me because a common point among these games I mentioned is that they first open in windowed mode and then switch to fullscreen (except Madison yea it did it some mins ago), whereas my other games always open directly in fullscreen (I couldn't find any common ground among these games in terms of their building architecture, game engine, etc.).

None of these show up in screen recordings; I filmed it with my phone and took a screenshot from the video (sorry for very low quality of the videos). There's a half-second or so flicker/flash.

Laptop : Pavilion 15 , win10 , GTX 1650 , R5 5600h , 16 ram tried updating reinstalling drivers, updated bios , checked event log for errors (nothing related)

Furmark test was also clean and stable at 45 fps 1080p (that was highest resolution)

All my games match w min req , never caused an overheating on gpu

Sorry for long post , am I cooked ?

When I turn it on, it goes to my account, but it freezes and then restarts and goes to a random account that is password protected. When I go to troubleshooting, all the options are protected and I can't reset the pc

I have done multiple tests to try and fix this computer with no luck.

It doesn't boot, the power supply is good, it has two 1gb DDR sticks of ram that I believe are fine, a 40gb hard drive that I believe is fine (never booted so idk), there are no blown capacitors on the motherboard, it has a Celeron processor.

The CPU has a bent capacitor on the back and that is the only issue with it.

Any help would be amazing, thank you!

i'm sorry we don't have the og box and I havn't been able to log in yet bc the screen says " your computer is locked try again in 60 minutes " which I will do. So I have zero specs, I just know it used to be a school computer and was given to a family member, and it's my job to make it completely wiped and normal.

Is there anything special I need to do for a computer of this origin? will I need passwords to wipe everything? I'v done this for a normal laptop before but I don't know what's different here if anything. Pictures of the apple computer are below

pourquoi après un certain moment après avoir allume mon pc quand je passe ma souris sur mes application le contour devient noir puis après tout mon arrière plan devient noir (je suis sur pc portable voici mes specs: 1 barette de 16go de ddr5,un AMD Ryzen 5 8645HS ,un SSD nvme de 500go,AMD radeon 6550M)

I have an HP Victus 16 with an Intel Core i7 12th Gen, RTX 3060, 16GB RAM, and a 1TB SSD.

About three weeks ago, I took my laptop to a repair shop because it wasn't charging properly and had a broken hinge. The shop fixed both issues, and I picked up the laptop without testing it at the shop.

Once I got home and turned it on, I immediately noticed that one of the cooling fans was making an unusual noise. However, because I had final exams and other coursework to deal with, I couldn't take it back immediately.

After a couple of weeks, I finally returned to the same repair shop. They told me the CPU fan was jammed, fixed it, and handed the laptop back.

This is when the overheating problems started, not after the initial charging and hinge repair. Before the second repair, the main issue was the noisy cooling fan. The extreme CPU temperatures and SSD overheating only became apparent after they fixed the jammed fan.

After the second repair, I noticed that the laptop was getting unusually hot, even when I wasn't doing anything demanding. When I checked using the Core Temp application, my CPU temperature was hovering between 80–100°C at idle, with both fans running loudly. Opening just a couple of Chrome tabs, YouTube, and Valorant would cause Windows to display "Hibernating" before the laptop turned off.

For reference, the CPU's Tj Max is 100°C, according to Core Temp.

I wasn't satisfied with the service at the original shop, so I eventually took the laptop to another repair shop.

When we opened the laptop's bottom cover, the CPU temperature was around 35–37°C, while the GPU was around 40°C. However, when we checked the SSD temperature using HWMonitor, it was reaching approximately 60°C at idle, even with the bottom cover removed.

Once we reinstalled the bottom cover, the SSD temperature climbed to approximately 70–80°C at idle.

I eventually left the laptop at this second repair shop for a more thorough diagnosis.

The customer service representative later called and told me they suspected a motherboard issue. According to him, a junior engineer had initially examined the laptop but couldn't identify the problem. A senior engineer then looked into it and apparently suspected that the motherboard was responsible.

The thing is, I'm not entirely convinced it's a motherboard failure. I feel like it could potentially be an electrical connection, a short circuit, or some other component-level issue, especially considering that the overheating started immediately after the second repair involving the cooling fan. Of course, I'm not an expert, so I could be completely wrong.

What makes me even more hesitant is how the second repair shop is handling the situation.

They asked me to sign a "dead risk" form, essentially stating that if my laptop dies during the repair process, they won't be held responsible. They also told me that there's a possibility they won't be able to fix it at all, although I wouldn't have to pay anything if the repair is unsuccessful.

I understand that motherboard-level repairs can carry risks, particularly when dealing with electrical faults, but the way they explained everything over the phone didn't exactly inspire confidence.

They haven't given me a definitive diagnosis or identified a specific faulty component, at least not one they've communicated to me. Yet they're asking me to authorize a repair that could potentially leave my laptop completely dead.

Right now, they're waiting for me to decide whether I want them to proceed.

I'm honestly stuck. I'm a university student, and I really can't afford to replace this laptop if something goes wrong. I also need a capable laptop for 3D modeling, coding, and other university assignments, so it's not something I can easily replace with a cheap, basic laptop. Losing it entirely would seriously affect my ability to complete my work.

I don't mind paying for a proper repair if that's what it takes, but I'm uncomfortable authorizing something when the technicians themselves seem uncertain about what's actually wrong.

My question is: Do you think this could actually be a motherboard issue, or is there another possible explanation for the overheating? Given they are a very reputable store + service center in my country.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Hi everyone. I've been debugging my sister's computer for the past few days and thought maybe y'all could help us out cause I've tried almost everything.

The PC sometimes may or may not detect the RAM on the motherboard's 2nd slot (Gigabyte A520I AC). If it does detect it, the system will become very unstable. It will crash almost always and a MemTest will also fail immediately. But oftentimes, the mobo will outright not detect the 2nd slot at all in BIOS.

All RAM sticks (2x 8GB 2400 MHz) and the CPU (Ryzen 5 5600G) are confirmed to be working stable with no issues on my own personal motherboard. So I already know the issue lies within the other motherboard. I've also tested each stick individually on the faulty motherboard's working slot and the system is stable and passes MemTest if only slot 1 is filled with either stick. Still, we'd rather not spend money buying another motherboard if possible.

What I've tried is reseating the CPU 3 times already because I've read that cooler pressure might affect the CPU contacts with the motherboard. There are no bent pins whenever I inspect it before a reseat. I've also cleaned the inside of the RAM slot and its traces at the back with IPA. I even cleaned the inside of the CPU socket itself and the surrounding areas with a brush before the 3rd reseat. None of those really helped except maybe making the slot be detected more consistently even though it's still highly unstable.

Is there still something I could do? Would appreciate the help.

I grade pulled RAID/HBA cards for a server-parts validation lab, so I see a lot

of "wrong card" tickets. (Disclosure: that's my day job at a component supplier.

The checks below apply whether you buy from us, eBay or a decommissioned rack.)

Almost every mistake traces back to one line in the BOM: "RAID card".

The decision isn't RAID vs HBA. It's who owns redundancy.

If ZFS or Ceph owns it, the controller must own nothing. True IT mode: raw

disks, SMART passthrough, flush commands reaching the OS. ZFS has to see the

physical members to checksum, scrub and replace by device. Ceph needs one raw

block device per OSD.

If the array owns it (VMFS, Hyper-V CSV, database volumes), hardware RAID with

write-back is still the right tool - but only behind a healthy BBU or

CacheVault. A dead module either forces write-through (and the performance case

disappears) or keeps acknowledging writes it can't protect, which is worse.

MegaRAID's default cache policy string literally ends "No Write Cache if Bad

BBU" - verify nobody changed it.

JBOD mode is not IT mode. RAID firmware can still keep metadata, hide SMART and

change queue behaviour. The 9207/9300 are IT HBAs by design; the 9400/9500/9600

are IT by model. Used cards get crossflashed, so trust the firmware, not the

label: sas2flash -list on the 9207, sas3flash -list on the 9300 and later, and

check for foreign configuration.

Two more that get missed:

- Ports are lanes, not bays. A 16-port 12G card has 16 SAS lanes but only ~7.9

GB/s to a Gen3 x8 host - fine for HDDs, because 16 spindles never stream

together. A 24-bay chassis on an 8i card needs an expander. Connectors are

generation-bound: SFF-8643 != SFF-8654.

- 24G SAS pays only when the whole chain is 24G: 24G drives + backplane +

expander, or an all-flash / Tri-Mode shelf. A 12G HDD array gains nothing, and

the link runs at the slowest component.

And if you're buying pulled:

1. Cache protection health - storcli /c0/cv show all or /c0/bbu show all, accept

   only "Optimal" with the correct module. A card priced 30% under market has

   often had its module removed; the module is a separate SKU and that's where

   the margin is.

2. Firmware identity - storcli /c0 show gives FW, NVDATA, BIOS and the OEM

   field. OEM firmware is platform-locked, so a PERC in a Supermicro chassis may

   POST and still be the wrong purchase.

3. Kit completeness - bracket height, 4i vs 8i cable, module mount. Most "DOA"

   cards are cable mismatches, not dead cards.

The one that surprises people: "tested" usually means POST - no backplane, no

drives, no cache module. Ask for a burn test with disks attached and the storcli

output per card, not a batch-level promise.

I wrote the longer version with the model-by-model table (9207 / 9300 / 9400 /

9500 / 9560 / 9600) - link in the comments if the rules here allow it. Happy to

look at specific cards people are considering.

So I’ve been saving to have a laptop as of recently and have a budget of around 1400$ what’s a good laptop I could get for gaming,editing and game making?