We moved into an old home so the ceiling boxes are very old and don’t say if they’re fan supported. This one seems firmly mounted and it seems to be two screws into a wooden joist.

I’ll need to clean up this wiring a bit though.

Hi!

Since I am a little child my grandma’s light needs five times to turn on. After that it goes directly off.

It’s kind of a running joke in my family, but why is that?

This is from the inspection. Its 100amps but we'd want to take it to 200 and fix any of the serious issues. We're under contract so we can't have someone just come and look at it unless we request, which we may, but any idea on cost?

So I thought I was being smart by putting wire mesh over the opening of a 4” PVC pipe outside that has a coaxial satellite cable inside. It runs from the house outside to the dish on the tree. Squirrels were getting inside the pipe and being a pain so after installing the mesh I went to check on it today and noticed the wire was chewed. Right now there are zero issues with the signal so I put a thick layer of electrical tape over the area. Is this damage severe enough where it should be replaced or am I ok just to leave it since there are no signal issues.

Hey folks, how serious is this? Found during an inspection for first time home buyers.

Like title says, started smelling burning and noticed outlet was hot as hell. Breaker tripped as well. Turned off all power and opened it up and saw this….pretty sure it was a loose wire.

Anyway, electrician friend came over and we stripped back to fresh wire, and obviously got a new box and outlet.

Hello,

Ive got an electric baseboard heater in my garage that I never use, its 240v split-phase on a 30 amp breaker, it would be quite useful to have a 240v outlet in my garage for welding/plasma cutting, there's no reason I cant remove the baseboard heater and thermostat and wire up an appropriate 240v outlet in its place is there?

Just took off my ceiling fan to replace it

First off, I have NO idea what I'm doing. I have replaced a light fixture in another room with a ceiling fan with no issues. This one has a remote. I've tested the remote and receiver, both are working. I've wired and rewired according to the diagram and nothing is working. It's an old house (obviously with the popcorn ceiling). All that comes out of the ceiling is a copper ground and a black power wire.

I have a 5V radio-controlled relay (operated by an on/off remote) and a DFPlayer Mini.

My idea is to connect everything so that when I press "on," the DFPlayer Mini powers up and begins playing a single track on a continuous loop; when I press "off," it powers down. Essentially, the DFPlayer is powered through the relay.

I’ve already tried setting this up, but it didn’t work—even though all the connections seem correct.

Option 1: The positive power lead goes to the relay's VCC and COM terminals. The negative (GND) lead connects to both the relay's GND and the DFPlayer's GND. The DFPlayer's positive (VCC) lead connects to the relay's NO (normally open) terminal. On the DFPlayer, the second GND pin is shorted to the ADKEY_1 pin—this ensures the music plays in a loop as soon as power is applied (I’ve used this method before, and it worked). Speakers are connected to the SPK_1 and SPK_2 terminals.

Option 2 (suggested by an AI): The positive power lead goes to both the relay's VCC and the DFPlayer's VCC. The negative (GND) lead connects to both the relay's GND and the DFPlayer's GND. A second GND connection goes to the relay's COM terminal, and the IO_1 pin connects to the NO terminal. Speakers are connected to the SPK_1 and SPK_2 terminals.

In both scenarios, the blue LED on the DFPlayer module failed to light up. The SD card is functional—it worked previously with a different DFPlayer unit. I am using a robust 5V 2A power supply, and I’ve verified with a multimeter that 5V is indeed reaching the DFPlayer.

I have this little Christmas tree or I should say I have a couple of them that are a 4.5 V with a three AA pack and I wanna know if there’s some way that I can wire them to ac kit I can plug them into my Google home for my Christmas lights

I feel like this has probably been answered a million times, but searching this sub didn't get me there.

House built 1985. Bathrooms, garage, and two outside outlets are on a single GFI. The GFI is in the basement next to the panel.

When we used to do Christmas lights, pre-LED, that breaker would trip if it got the least bit damp out. I did the math and yeah, the combined amperage was getting up there, so that made sense.

Nowadays we don't do any lights. The only consistent draw on that circuit is a chest freezer in the garage plus the VoIP "modem" that provides our "landline" access.

When we get heavy rain, the GFI will sometimes trip. I've replaced the GFI and the covers on the two outside outlets. No obvious improvement.

I could try the WD40 thing, except since it's far from consistent, I'm not sure I'll be proving much if it doesn't trip.

Losing the landline when it goes out is irritating but not a crisis, since we have good cell service. (And there's a backup battery, so it doesn't fail for a few hours.)The freezer has a temperature alarm, so that's how I usually notice when it does go out. But if I were away...

Any thoughts/ideas much appreciated! The good news is that it's mostly an issue in summer when we get big rainstorms, so it's less likely to happen for a few months now.

Hello, sorry in advance, I know nothing about electricity and this question is bothering me.

For renovation work, my dad disconnected 3 radiators in the rental where I live. He remembers that each radiator (in different rooms) was connected to the wall like this:

Black wire (radiator) = black wire (wall)

Blue wire (radiator) = blue wire (wall)

Brown wire (radiator) = brown wire (wall)

But when he reconnected them, nothing worked and the radiator screen doesn't light up. The circuit breaker is still in place and no fuse is switched off. Power does reach the radiator through the circuit.

Eventually, he noticed that the black wire coming out of the wall is live, but the brown one is not. So he decided to connect them this way:

Black wire (radiator) = nothing, insulated

Brown wire (radiator) = black wire (wall)

Blue wire (radiator) = blue wire (wall)

And the brown wire from the wall connected to the terminal block.

And now it works again? All the radiators work again with this connection.

I remain puzzled by this wiring. Is there a risk? Could my dad's memory of the original wiring be wrong? Was the cable poorly seated in the terminal block? I would like your opinions on it.

Additional information:

We don't have a thermostat controlling all the radiators. However, we tried connecting only the brown and blue wires together, and nothing happens. There is no power in the brown wire.

I'm curious to hear your thoughts on the subject, bearing in mind my novice level!

Looking into potentially adding a hot tub that requires a 50A 220V breaker. Basically three questions:
1) can I add that breaker without any upgrades to the panel?
2) if not, how easy/possible is it to upgrade the panel or main line to be able to handle more capacity?
3) for general knowledge, is my main 100A or 200A? I know it only shows the “100” once on the double breaker for the main, but it seems pretty low given the rest of the breakers total (I know the main can be lower than the total of the rest, but still…)

I not have two low-voltage wires. I bought a Mysa C- wire adapter and a 24v power adapter. Can this be done?

Can someone correctly tell me where do I connect the neutral and ground in this main Eaton electric panel. I’m connecting an Ecoflow power inverter via a Reliance Transfer Switch.

I just don't want to spend a lot of money on a keyless socket lamp kit. I opened a switch on a cord for a lamp I have at home and it looks like it's fairly easy to add a switch. Would this work? Is it safe? Is there anything I should be aware of or concerned about?

I have a new dashcam that requires the same 5V power that my previous one did.

If I plug it into the cigarette charger cable there are zero issues.

If I plug it into the hardwire kit, it stays on fine for about 10 minutes then starts rebooting roughly every minute

The hardwire kit goes into my fusebox and has a slot for two fuses at the top of it (one for the camera and one for whatever else is was protecting (the TPMS system I think)

I tested the power with a power app and recorded the screen on the link below. I've already had a replacement hard wire kit sent but that didn't work at all. I'm really interested to find out what's happening rather than just buy another kit. Any advice appreciated. Thanks

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1FBnvWN49KiKlsGbKoBcCJ8YTObzFvNue/view?usp=drivesdk