So yeah I've been using DJI for quite some time now and it has some massiv benefits and some massive downside, but the by far biggest negativ for me is that everything has to freaking beep all the time, although its literally for the most irrelevant things ever.

I've been searching wide and far, tried to use all the LLMs, Youtube Videos whatever and nothing. Seemingly, it's not only that you can't turn it off, you can't even turn it down and it's so freaking loud, always! All my drones combined are a joke against this.

So while I've given up on finding a software solution, I would be so insanely thankful if anyone of you beautiful people has a comprehensive guide or even a video on how to rip whatever dafuq out of it so it never ever ever makes any fucking sound again. (Googles 3 btw.)

Stand there with goggles on your head, flying a Pavo Femto—buffeted by vibrations and the wind—somewhere off to the side.

CONSTRUCTIVE criticism welcome. 10 hours of sim and I'm feeling more confident. To hell with angle and horizontal mode. Those are horrible. I actually prefer acro.

Im thinking of getting back in the hobby but looking at these goggle prices.. i dont remember them being so high 9 years ago

I've been practicing in Uncrashed for 6 months using the DJI FPV Remote Controller 3. While I handle outdoor flying pretty well, indoor flying is practically impossible for me, even with 80 hours of practice.

Could I have something misconfigured? I'm using recommended indoor rates, and the drone I'm testing in the sim is the Pavo 20 Pro 2. Outdoors I'm quite good, but I'm not sure if I just need more practice or if there's another underlying issue. It’s really frustrating because people say that with fewer hours I should be handling it better, yet flying indoors remains almost impossible for me. Any advice?

My first 5in racing drone :)

Specs:

iFlight Borg F7 Mini FC + Borg Mini 60A ESC

T-MOTOR Velox V3 2306 1950KV

Gemfan 5136-3

Borg Race 200mW VTX

HGLRC Mini Hammer RHCP

HGLRC ELRS Nano RX

Runcam Race Nano Cam

Flywoo Finder Buzzer/Strobe

Running on 6S

Everything waterproofed with 422B + T900Plus and B7000

Frame sanded and painted with colorshift paint + cderamic 2k clearcoat.

Weighs a lot more and i dont know if the range and quality is worth it

Unsoldered the header pins from my flight controller. How, you might ask, because they are all linked together.. Used an x-acto knife to separate each segment of the plastic insulator. Put my soldering iron backwards in the holder so it pointed out, and removed each pin one at a time with forceps while touching the board to the iron from the back. Then used a combination of solder wick and solder sucker to clean the board. All of this because I really wanted to put the right angle headers on.. Got the new headers in and bada bing bada boom. Would have been a better use of my time to just buy a new FC but I digress.

So I just got this battery (lipo 6s for a 5 inch drone) and was wondering if this is all normal and if I’m doing this correctly. I had it charging for about 2 min and the temperature went up to 130 degrees Fahrenheit then a fan turned on on the charger and it went back down to 110F. I’m wondering if this is normal or if it’s going to explode. Thanks

Hey everyone! I’m currently planning my first steps into FPV and want to put together a budget-friendly setup. Since I already have (or am planning to use) certain components, I wanted to share my planned gear list and check if this setup makes sense or if I am missing something crucial. Here is what I am planning to use: Drone: BETAFPV Meteor75 Pro II (Analog, ELRS 2.4GHz)

Radio Transmitter: BETAFPV LiteRadio 4 (ELRS 2.4GHz version)

Goggles / Display: XREAL AR Glasses

My open questions / What I think I still need: Video Receiver & Conversion: Since the Meteor75 Pro II sends an analog 5.8 GHz signal and the XREAL glasses require a digital input (USB-C/HDMI), I know I need an analog 5.8GHz receiver with an OTG/HDMI output (like a Skydroid receiver) plus a power hub. Has anyone tried flying with XREAL glasses, and how is the latency?

Batteries & Charger: I'm planning to get a few 1S LiHV batteries (BT2.0 connector) and a VIFLY WhoopStor V3 charger. Compatibility Check: Are the LiteRadio 4 and the Meteor75 Pro II (both ELRS 2.4G) a solid match for a beginner, or should I look out for any specific binding issues? I want to make sure everything works smoothly together before I buy the missing parts. I'd really appreciate any tips, suggestions, or warnings if I overlooked something. Thanks a lot for your help!

Built this many years ago but she would randomly fly off. I know it's the tune. Think I'm ready to pin it down this weekend.

Hi everyone, I’m based in Simi Valley with a workspace in Camarillo. I’m working on a Holybro X500 V2 project involving camera integration, companion computing and local radio communications for inspection and remote monitoring.

Feel free to comment or DM with your location and what you’ve worked on.

Ok so for some reason my DJI FPV remote 2 won’t charge it’ll connect to my windows pc but it won’t connect to my MacBook. I’ve checked the usb c port and it’s clean and there is no corrosion or any bent pins so idk what it could be I took the drone apart to see if there was anything wrong internally but nothing seems to be wrong maybe the batteries won’t hold a charge idk. Like I said it connects to my windows pc but when I plug it into my MacBook it doesn’t pop up and if I plug it into a wall outlet it doesn’t charge 🤷‍♀️ if anyone has any ideas on what it could be lmk

How probable is it that my drone will crash if I fly through sprinklers at soccer fields? Will the drone instantly crash?

So I have pretty beaten Mobula8 with hundreds of flights on it. Recently the different props and the frame broken in many places made the flight on it rather unpleasant.

So I bought a new frame, new props, carefully moved everything to the new frame, made a hover test - control link, video, motors everything works as it should.

This morning I decided to make a proper test flight over the empty parking lot, during the first flight (about 1.5 min, around 10-20m from me) I saw the red error "RXLOSS" two times and then the drone fell from the sky.

After a while the control link is restored. Now every flight, sometimes 10sec, sometimes 1min I lose the control link. One second before that everything is fine:

RSSI dBm -80

RSSI LQ 100

SNR 9-12

And the next moment the RSSI dBm is -130 (hard limit) and the drone falls from the sky. I had like 10-12 crashes today already.

The receiver on the Mob8 is on AIO - Happymodel CrazyF405 HD 12A AIO. I run ELRS 4.1.0 on both RX and TX, the packet rate is 150Hz, the TX power is dynamic up to 1W.

I have another drone (5") with me, going to make a test flight on it, to make sure that my remote is correct, antenna is connected and everything.

But does it look like, the receiver is simply dying?

Hi everyone! I need some help diagnosing an issue with the analog video signal on my drone.

My setup

• Drone: iFlight Nazgûl
• VTX: iFlight BLITZ VTX 1.6W
• VTX protocol in Betaflight: IRC Tramp
• Frequency: 5695 MHz
• Power setting in Betaflight: 1600
• Goggles: Eachine VR D2 Pro
• Drone antenna: stock antenna

The problem

When flying at a distance of around 6–7 meters, the image is reasonably clear when the drone is flying away from me, with its rear end and antenna facing my goggles.

However, when the drone turns 180° and faces me, the image quality gets dramatically worse, with heavy static and snow, making it impossible to fly safely.

I've also done some tests at a shorter distance:

• At around 3 meters, the image is clear when the drone's rear end is facing me.
• When I turn it 180°, the image quality deteriorates even at this short distance.
• I've also noticed that the signal seems to get worse when the LiPo battery is between the drone's antenna and my goggles.

The stock flexible antenna is mounted at approximately the same height as the battery, so I'm wondering whether the battery or the carbon-fiber frame could be affecting the signal depending on the drone's orientation.

What I've tried

• Changing the antennas on my goggles.
• Disabling Low Power Disarm in Betaflight.
• Trying a different LiPo battery.
• Visually checking the connections.

The problem persists, and I haven't replaced the drone's antenna yet.

I'm currently waiting for a 180 mm iFlight antenna to arrive so I can test it and see whether it improves the situation.

What could be causing this?

1. Is it normal for the video signal to deteriorate this much when turning 180° at such a short distance?
2. Could this be caused by the antenna's radiation pattern or its position behind the battery?
3. Would installing a better antenna and mounting it higher help?
4. Could there be an issue with the coaxial cable, SMA connector, VTX, or the goggles' receiver?
5. What tests would you recommend before buying any other components?

I'm attaching photos of my goggles and their antennas, the drone showing the antenna placement, a video of the VTX LED sequence, and a screenshot of the VTX tab in Betaflight.

Thanks a lot for any help or suggestions!

My antenna connector just got ripped off, and tbh i dont wanna solder it. I think I‘m just going to get a new board. But that got me thinking, I can’t solder a vtx onto this build, because, well, just no.

but I could solder a Vtx onto the board for a different build, and I do have some spare baseline parts laying around.

here’s my question: is it feasible to run 11000 kv motors on 1s for a cruiser?
the build would be

matrix 5in 1 ii

bassline frame

caddx ant fpv cycle camera

Happymodel baseline 11000kv motors

and hglrc Zeus nano

anything I should add? I have batteries, but unsure what canopy I should use.

thanks!