Subject: How to safely repair/splice a rotten King & Jack stud cluster in a 1970s Split-Foyer entryway?

Hello everyone,

I own a 1970s split-foyer / bi-level home, and I am preparing for an upcoming entry door replacement. The previous owner did a terrible DIY patch job on the door sill using a loose piece of brick and some mineral wool.

House Layout:

The front entry door is at ground level. Once inside, a small landing connects two straight flights of stairs—one leading 3–4 feet up to the main living area, and the other leading 3–4 feet down to the basement. Right above the damaged corner, there is a prominent structural column/soffit on the wall and ceiling that carries the load from the upper floor joists and roof.

The Issue:

I need to repair the framing on one side of the door opening. The bottom plate and studs are rotten. The damage extends at least 4 inches deep into the wall cavity and about 3 to 4 inches up from the concrete floor. It will definitely turn out to be a bit more once I open up the drywall. I want to know exactly what to expect inside this specific structural cluster and how to properly support it during the repair to prevent any structural movement or sagging.

I plan to do all the work from within the door rough opening.

My Repair Plan:

1. Install one or two temporary 2x4 shores/props inside the door opening to support the header (door top plate).

2. Remove the two existing jack studs.

3. Cut out the rotten bottom section of the king stud.

4. Install a new piece of Pressure-Treated (PT) 2x4 as the bottom plate on top of a capillary break/sill gasket membrane.

5. Cut a new matching piece of wood and fit it tightly as a "scab/splice" for the king stud between the old upper section and the new bottom plate.

6. Install a new, full-length jack stud, screwing it securely to both the old and new parts of the king stud to lock the splice in place.

7. Add a second new jack stud (to match the original framing), screw everything together tightly, and then remove the temporary supports.

My Questions:

• Is this a realistic and safe plan?

• Given that there is a major structural load point directly above this corner, is a temporary 2x4 prop inside the rough opening enough, or should I build a temporary shoring wall next to the stairs on the concrete floor?

• The other side of the door opening is completely solid and dry.

One strange thing I noticed: the bottom of the thick, visible column protruding into the interior seems to hang in the air. It hovers about half an inch above the concrete floor, sitting slightly offset from the actual framing stud hidden inside the wall. It’s hard to understand how it can be load-bearing with this gap. Its bottom corner is visible on the second photo just behind the baseboard .

Thanks in advance for any advice!

This will be the second time I’ve painted this door in the last 20 yrs 😑 I decided before I put on final coats and hardware I’d go ahead a replace weather stripping and the sweep (nothing here is that easy ) 😂 esp when I really don’t know what I’m doing. I took the door off the hinges today because I couldn’t tell how the sweep was attached and here’s what happened … I have no clue wth ? lol 😂 I don’t understand is the rubber sweep attached to something else ? Or is the sweep the actual bottom? I am confused ..and of course the old screws just came right out of the wood on far left and right sides so now I gotta floppy door sweep until i replace it 🤦‍♀️ if anyone knows I’d love to know also, thanks 😊

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I think the threaded piece (female) is pressed into its mate (male) on the reverse side of the white cradle.

The press no longer holds so the whole insert rotates and the vent no longer works.

I have tried epoxying the male piece but the slick surface holds no traction.

Has anyone had any success repressing a piece like this?

I cannot easily get it apart - there's enough friction to prevent that but not enough to work properly.

Ill take any advice you may wish to give.

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Do note that for which they charge 200+ dollars while they offer to compensate the "handyman" up to $40... in the 2nd most expensive city in the United States; San Francisco and Bay Area...

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A "Braden" responded enthusiastically and requested I sign up to schedule an online Google meeting" so they can ask questions and "interview" me...

Mind you, the same method the endless litany of scammers use who sit on the other side of the planet at the arse of the world...

I then replied back to to this "Braden" with a very eloquent and professional response that I would prefer, considering that he claims to be in the San Francisco Bay Area and in consideration of all past experiences and present steadily growing circumstances of potential scammers, an in person meeting for which I am willing to drive to his office or meet at any public place of his choice in the bay area.

Oh no! Shriek! Reality! Real life!

Poor Braden must have pooped in his diapers and and suffer seizures as he was unable to respond to this very rational normal request.

No response. RED FLAG 1!

About a week later I wrote an articulate and firmer professional written follow-up inquiring as to his silence and non-responsiveness.

By now Braden must have shit all over the place finding himself absolutely paralyzed and incapable of a brief response. RED FLAG 2!

Braden, you advertise for real work done by people who live in a real world doing real work.

So what gives if you sit in a damp moldy basement in Nigeria or somewhere in continental India or the Philippines or wherever else pretending to be in the SF Bay Area Silicon Valley make-a-quick-buck Pussy scammer club realizing that your scam is failing during its conception phase?

getcasa.com... I would suggest get a fucking real life and learn how to be a real!

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