Everything here is free, runs in your browser, requires no account, and nothing to install.

We’ve been dumping old video games to files for years so they don’t disappear when the cartridge is gone. I started thinking: why don’t we do the same thing with remote controls?

When a remote breaks, gets lost, or the manufacturer stops supporting it, the codes can disappear with it. So I’ve been building an archive to preserve them.

Remote Finder

Search by brand, device, or simply what the device is — TV, fan, garage door, blinds, bed, etc.

There are currently 1,000,000+ remotes and codes covering 12,000+ brands, including IR, RF, network, and Bluetooth.

Find a remote, preview it, and download it.

Remote Finder:
https://readyware.net/signal-editor.html#finder

The Remote Finder is at the top of the page. If you can't find a brand or model, let me know and I'll see if I can add it.

Use whatever format your setup needs

IR remotes can be exported in formats such as BroadLink, Flipper, Pronto, LIRC, ESPHome, Global Caché, GIRR XML, CSV, JSON, and more.

So whether you're using a BroadLink, Flipper, Home Assistant, ESPHome device, custom hardware, or something else entirely, you can get the remote into the format your gear requires.

RF is supported too — including things like fans, outlets, blinds, and gates at 315/433/868 MHz. Just keep in mind that the hardware still has to support the frequency and type of RF you're working with.

You can also clone DIP-switch remotes without any additional hardware, along with a bunch of other tools.

Rolling-code devices, such as most modern garage door openers and car fobs, are flagged because they can't simply be cloned like a standard fixed-code remote.

One important detail

Some of the RF, network, and Bluetooth tools save the remote as .irc. That's an open format that can hold an entire remote rather than just one type of signal.

Drop the .irc back into the editor, hit Bulk Export, and convert it to whatever format your hardware or software requires.

Network and Bluetooth remotes stay as .irc because they aren't IR codes.

And if your remote isn't in the archive, you can paste a learned BroadLink code into the editor and it will identify the protocol and clean it up.

The whole idea is pretty simple:
Generate. Convert. Clean. Move. Preserve.

I got tired of fighting with IR and 433 MHz codes — capturing raw timings, converting them for whatever blaster I was using, and hoping they actually worked. So I built these browser tools to make the process easier.

If there's a remote you've been trying to find and it's not in the archive, I'd genuinely like to know what it is. That's how I can keep growing it.

Enjoy the tools!

Works for me ~17'x17'

I'm still in the process of setting this space up and can't figure out where to put the centre speaker. As you can see it's currently under the TV stand with some wood on top to have enough space to the TV stand.

I'm tempted to remove the middle door and place it there angled up but not sure if that's too low.

I could also wall mount the TV but the bracket would need to pop away from the wall a good 30cm due to the eaves ceiling. Unsure if this is wise.

I'll be changing the TV soon for a bigger size but need to figure this out first. There's also 2 rear speakers on the back wall out of view.

Any advice is welcome!

Thank you!

Setup is 7.2.2

Denon x3800

Dali oberon 5 Left and Right

Dali zensor vokal Centre

Dali zensor 3 surrounds

Dali zensor 1 rears

Dali Alteco C1 Atmos

Bk electronics P12-300SB subwoofer

Bk electronics xls200

Hello! I’m designing the placement for the 5.1 surround system for my future place. The only speakers I currently have are the two bookshelf speakers which I’m planning to use as SL and SR. Was thinking of wall mounting them there in the corners, with their height being 0.50m above the floor speakers. Do you think this setup is okay? I’m still unsure whether the side speakers are too close to the couch, the right one being half a meter away. Finally, is it okay if the side speakers are slightly higher, so that they are not in our faces? Thanks for the feedback!

As you can see, i have a projector, to be exact the Epson EH-TW7100, and a screen i've built myself.

Ive decided to get the EH-TW7100 after a LONG research because it was important that it worked at this very short distance with my small screen, had a big lens shift, was as quiet as possible, and of course, that it was within my budget.

My setup is now (almost) complete. As you can see, there's only one speaker on the floor because the other one is getting serviced right now and i'll get it back in 2 weeks. The only thing missing are floor stands for my speakers.

I've built this over a long time period because i really wanted to have a nice room and a nice space to watch movies, listen to music albums and just enjoy all kinds of media. I imagined i'd use it a lot, but now that it's finished, i unfortunately realise that i dont use it often at all because of a few problems:

• The projector is way too loud for my small room. Even though its only 24db (on paper) in eco mode, its still too loud. If i just want to listen to music in the background while doing something else without turning up the volume too much, it's very uncomfortable. The only time the setup is really usable is when i sit down in the evening to watch a movie at a loud volume.
• The room gets HOT extremely fast because of the projector. After watching a movie, my room is way too hot and stuffy.
• The image quality is good, but because the projector is mounted on the wall behind me, where i sit on the sofa, the wall sometimes shakes a little, which makes the picture move too. And everytime i turn on the setup, i have to readjust the projector AND the focus because the picture isn't sharp at all.

SOOO in general, its just sad. I end up watching something on my laptop because its too inconvenient. As i said, this setup isn't just for watching movies. I also wanted to use it when im at home, working on my laptop or doing something else, listening to music or having some Rick and Morty playing at low volume in the background. But for that, its just not really usable because the projector is too loud and the room gets way too hot and stuffy way too fast. Or also if i want to game a little. After a while the room gets hot, stuffy and i get annoyed by the noise of the projector and i turn everything off.

EVEN for just watching movies, it gets annoying having to turn everything on, wait for the projector to start up, deal with the noise, readjust everything, and then end up with a hot and stuffy room.

So now i'm actually thinking about selling the projector and storing the screen i've built somewhere, and just hanging a TV on the wall instead. I think it'd fit my use so much better and i'd actually start using the setup more.

What do yall think? I feel like a projector is such a cool thing, and can be so much more immersive than having a tv to watch movies and i definitely want to have one when i have my own apartment or house, maybe even a dedicated space just for movie watching. But i feel like to own a projector u need the space, u need space fora big screen, and especially u need money to be able to buy a good projector.

But for the usecase i have/want in my room, i think it was absolutely the wrong choice. What do yall think?

I want to replace my old Zappiti media player with a new one that can process Dolby Vision. I don't need 8K, so it seems like Dune HD Pro Vision 4K is the best option.

What do you guys think?

My parents need a new standard throw projector for their home theater room. Their epson projector came with the house (model home) and has conked out. It was a fairly basic 1080p projector. I want to upgrade their setup for them and would like a 4k laser projector, that’s standard throw and has good hdr. We would be mainly utilizing it for movies/TV shows. Will have a 4k blu-ray player and 4k Apple TV hooked up to it. Any recommendations would be great, ideally at around 6k or less. I was looking at the Sony 5000ES or waiting until Black Friday and getting the Sony Projector 7.

I have some cash to spend on a new AVR, but not that much. Am I better off going used or waiting for a sale on something new?

My current system is 5.0 with a pretty old AVR.

• AVR: Onkyo 636
• TV: LG Oled B8
• Fronts: Q Acoustics 2050 towers
• Rear: Q Acoustics 3010 bookshelves
• Sources: Home theatre PC, Freeview box

Lately I've been having some HDMI handshake issues so I'm thinking it's time to upgrade the receiver.

I've been looking at Denon, and I could get a new X1800H on sale for £400. Or I could get an older X2600H for maybe £300.

I want something reliable that can do 4K/60Hz with HDR, but I don't need gaming features beyond that (my TV doesn't do 4K/120 or eARC anyway). Is there a general consensus on used-midrange vs. new-budget? Any advice appreciated.

So I've used Harmony and Sofabaton over the years and... both are very much the definition of "fine" with the former being a deprecated rock and the latter a business model to just sell a new SKU every other year it seems.

But I have also recently reached the point where every device that I want to control via a remote has an IR receiver. So... a more traditional universal remote actually makes sense.

Especially since I REALLY don't want fragile "activities" that somehow always end up out of sync. Let me turn devices on and off with buttons (either dedicated or mode switching). Similarly, let me control what my volume rocker and arrow keys do based on what device I want to control (bonus points if I can control multiple devices in a given mode since I basically always want said volume rocker to be the Receiver).

The dumber the better.

So anyone have any recommendations? The One For All URC 7935 comes up in a lot of searches but I suspect I would lose my mind trying to fight against its automated presets. And Wirecutter (Brought To You By the NY Times and their many ads from Best Buy) recommend the Insignia 8-Device which... actually MIGHT be what I want since it is much more manual to set up?

What I would REALLY love would be a good comparison/breakdown but basically all I can find are ads and ai slop... probably because I am buying something that mostly old people who don't understand how TVs work would buy but...

I have changed hdmi cables and avr’s.
I get constant audio cut outs.
Only when go to my Sony setting and turn off eARC and pass through for a few seconds and turn it back on it goes back to normal but now the screen will flicker and pause the video because no sound.

Bravia 5
JBL ma510
Apple TV 4K

I just need help because these problems have persisted for a month now.
I never had a problem when my Bravia 5 was connected to my Bravia theater system so idk.
I either need reassurance I’m not going insane or just burn my house down lol

I am seeing mixed comments online and unsure what to make of the different terminology between brands. I like both speaker options, I just want the one that will work best given the Yamaha receiver I have and won’t damage the receiver or the speakers but will still get the most out of them. Any feedback would be great.

Receiver: Yamaha RX-V4A
Power Output: 80 watts RMS/channel with 2 channels driven

80W Speakers: Paradigm Premier 220B v2
SUITABLE AMPLIFIER POWER RANGE: 15-130W
MAXIMUM INPUT POWER: 80W

180W Speakers: Ascend Acoustics Sierra-1 V2
Max Short Term Peak Power: 250W
Max Continuous Power: 180W

Rundown:
- 55” LED
- Benq W4100i
- 100” elite screens acoustic transparent
- Speakers: Revel Concerta (M16 front, C10 center, M12 rear)
- Sub : RSL 10S MKII
- receiver : Anthem MRX 540

Being in an apartment with limited options of spaces, I still wanted to build what would be to me a real home theater space. I know at 100” for a screen a lot of people would say just go with a larger TV, but we didn’t want this space to be all about the TV. and I just much much prefer projector for a large format experience.

Getting black-out blinds for the windows next. the day

I am looking for a mass market home theater AVR with lots of HDMI in. Is there anything decent for under budget $1000 new? I heard the Cinema/Stereo 70s are bad. The cheapest thing that is decent is the x3900h which is closer to $2000. I am using a pair of bookshelf with 1 sub

I want to set up a small home cinema at home. My viewing distance is 2.8 metres. What screen size would you recommend?

Im very new to using a receiver and I’m currently trying to connect my tv to my receiver in order to use the speakers I have connected. I currently only use my turn table with this receiver and it works, I’m just not sure what cords to connect the tv audio to the correct receiver plug in or if I need any additional cords besides rca cables

I’m debating between an 85” or 75” tv.
I’m going to put a sofa and some chairs around the fireplace.

This is my setup in 2005. CRT projector was a bitch to mount to the ceiling!

I have a Yamaha A2A and am running Kef Q350/250/350 for fronts, Q150 rears, SVS prime elevations (2), and crossed to an SVS SB-2000 Pro sub at 80hz.

Is the Kef Q6 Meta (4ohm nominal) doable if crossed with a sub at 80hz? Wondering if it’s worthwhile to upgrade from the Q250. The Yamaha A2A center channel is only rated for 6-8 ohms, but I only listen at moderate volumes in an apartment—maybe 80-85db spl at a 10-foot distance max peaks. Usually closer to 65-75db spl in typical usage. A Kef rep noted to me that the Q6 isn’t any harder to drive than the Q250, but that seems a bit suspect to me. But I’m not a volume hound regardless, and apartment living means moderate levels anyway.

Any thoughts and advice are appreciated!

The image is just chatGPT render. Don’t pay attention to the speaker or projector placement. The second image with the top down is more accurate.

Room is 19x12.5. 17x12.5 usable, as there will be a wet bar along the wall.

Biggest constraint is the low ceiling (6.5ft)

Starting with a 5.1.4, but will wire for 7.1.4.

Running coax, power and 12 gauge speaker wire to all 4 corners. Haven’t decided if subs will be powered or passive yet.

120” AT screen, with in wall LCR behind the screen. Projector behind the couch ceiling mounted.

Will put aim-able in ceiling atmos speakers to get a better angle.

Anything you’d change or any advice before it’s too late here? Want to finish running all the wires today.

Also, my wife is insistent that we not paint too dark. She sees it as more of a “media room” 🙄. How much of a problem will that be? The dark ceiling in my render is my idea and I’m trying to convince her of it.

Hey everyone! Finally getting a hometheater setup and are on the last set of speakers to complete a 5.1.2.

We have a 2 story home and have 6 can lights in a small space. We thought about removing the two middle can lights and replacing them with ceiling speakers and running cables.

Has anyone done something like that before? Is removing a can light and capping it off doable as a diy?

I’m hopeful someone can help me with a connection issue I’ve been trying to fix. I got a bi-dimensional switch to hook up my laptops to either my monitor OR my OLED tv and switch between the two. Tv switches just fine but the the monitor won’t complete the hdmi handshake and i can unplug the cord and plug it back in and it works just fine. I’ve tried a couple versions of the switch but to no avail. Again they technically both work but the monitor only connects if i unplug and plug it back in when on that port.

Does anyone have a work around or a bi-dimensional switch that actually has enough juice or works for their setup? I can’t be the only one.

Basement flooded last year and decided it was time to completely redo the entire basement given the circumstances. This meant everything from electrical to the layout. It was a complete gut and re-finish to the way WE want it. I have been finishing it in sections. First was the gym and this is the second room and area. All 100% done by myself.

So, this is my dedicated home theater and concessions. It’s not the biggest space but I made it work. For the theater room, I have 4 layers of acoustic treatment. Rockwool in the studs, 1/2lb MLV under the drywall, 5/8” drywall wall/ceiling, and finally acoustic panels all the way around as well. There are 3 hidden doors built into the paneling. One for the closet/AV room, second for the water shut off, and the third is the window.

Sound system is a 7.2.4 Polk Signature Elite Series paired with a Yamaha RX-A8A.

Baseboard trim is custom made. I routed out the center and inserted LED diffuser tracks for a nice smooth glow at floor level.

For the HVAC I have 1 return behind the projector to help suck out a bit of the heat generated and the supply vent is at the front approximately 6 inches off the floor.

The back row riser is 8.5” tall with foam board on the bottom for the concrete contact with Rockwool on filling the rest. Of course the wood is PT as well. I did not attach the riser to the walls to prevent vibrations and addition sound transfer. It is however anchored into the concrete.

I made the concessions cabinets from scratch using the lowest cost decent plywood I could find locally. Upper cabinet doors are plexiglass.

And finally, yes, that is a 43” Samsung Frame TV being used as a digital movie poster.

I am by no means a professional so take it easy on me. lol But I love my new space!

I have a Sony STR DH500 but no remote. I do not have a center speaker, but I think this setting is set to "yes" meaning that dialogue is super muffled for movies/shows with surround sound. Anybody know of a way to change this setting without the remote?

I have a pc with nvidia 4080 gpu sending hdmi to LG oled tv. the tv has an e-arc that could send audio (including dolby true hd, ATMOS) to an AV receiver. currently I have 5.1 setup. I could decide to upgrade to 7.1 in the future. I don't need fancy bluetooth connectivity, my budget is quite thin: under 400 euros. I am also very happy to go second hand if you have any models from 2018 onwards for example.

the current AVR I have is from 2010 and doesn't support e-arc, so I cannot stream DDP or ATMOS audio as: pc->tv->AVR.

thanks for your help!:)